3 Kids, 1 Wife, and 1 Lonely Blazer

[CJM72]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

nice work so far... I use my HF trans jack also, but I install it with the crossmembers installed, helps to sit flat on the jack.

I definitely considered trying that. Does your cross member have the upper arms that bolt to the top of the frame? I was afraid I wouldn't be able to rotate it into place with the transfer case attached. Was hoping to install the trans and t-case together as a unit, but I couldn't figure out how to do it with the cross member in place.

Thanks for kind words. Your thread and a few others keep me motivated to keep picking away at this project! This forum is the best.

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by CJM72

I definitely considered trying that. Does your cross member have the upper arms that bolt to the top of the frame? I was afraid I wouldn't be able to rotate it into place with the transfer case attached. Was hoping to install the trans and t-case together as a unit, but I couldn't figure out how to do it with the cross member in place.

Thanks for kind words. Your thread and a few others keep me motivated to keep picking away at this project! This forum is the best.

yes, I install as a unit, trans. and t/c. seeing as I have a 4" lift, it rolls under nicely, easier to put on trans jack outside of truck, and roll in place. Diagonal supports can be installed later. As you are, I'm a one man show, so any mechanical advantage I can gain, I use

I agree, great group of guys with tons of knowledge and experience, all willing to share. and yes, I use the builds to keep me motivated

BTW, I use exhaust manifold studs to line up, and install my t/c to trans. you can take them out later or leave them for future installs

[CJM72]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

yes, I install as a unit, trans. and t/c. seeing as I have a 4" lift, it rolls under nicely, easier to put on trans jack outside of truck, and roll in place. Diagonal supports can be installed later. As you are, I'm a one man show, so any mechanical advantage I can gain, I use

I agree, great group of guys with tons of knowledge and experience, all willing to share. and yes, I use the builds to keep me motivated

Ahh, I see now. My upper frame brackets are still riveted to the main cross member. I should have drilled those out and made them bolt on the first time I had it out!

Cheers

[CJM72]

Moving along here. Transmission installed Friday night.

I convinced my Dad and brother to stop by on Sunday to attempt getting the LQ9 installed. Got started around 10AM and we didn't wrap up until 4:30 in the afternoon.

Lots of hardware to get the Dirty Dingo 4x4 cross member put together!

I decided to put the motor in, clamp the cross member in place, then I pulled the motor back out. Drilled and bolted in the cross member, then dropped the motor in for good!

Plenty of clearance around the Dirty Dingo x-member, but need to extend my bump stops to make sure it stays that way!

[CJM72]

Update time! Per the thread title, I've basically disappeared for a while. Kids and life have limited my Blazer time, but I was expecting that.

Over the summer I did a few things. Cleaned up the intake and installed the top end components.

Had to make a new power steering line for the high pressure side. I had a short section of hydraulic hose made up with compression fittings. Cut the formed hard lines where needed and installed. Not many people document this, so I thought it might help someone.

Shortened the low pressure line and I also had to plug the 2nd low pressure reurn line on the bottom of the pump. I believe that's used for hydroboost applications which I hope to convert to in the future.

[CJM72]

Had to fab some new brake lines to get around the Dirty Dingo cross member.


Also roughed in the braided line for the transmission cooler. Basically hoping to wrap as many little jobs as possible in the engine bay before the front clip goes back on. Torque converter bolts, headers, and wiring clean-up coming next!

[CJM72]

Stole another hour in the garage tonight. Installed torque converter bolts and my headers. Headers are the ls swap Doug Thorley #THY-324Y-C. Fit overall is fantastic with one minor clearance issue.


Look fantastic. Still have a pair of ls3 manifolds, but I'll be selling those now that I've confirmed these fit.
Nice clearance between frame and transmission. Plenty of room for the O2 sensors.

One clearance issue though. Driver's side header only clears the firewall by about 1/16" on one spot. May be able to loosen my mounts/crossmember and 'clock' the motor. I might be able to drop the driver's side and raise the pass side.

[twp1]

Looking good! Hard to do the projects and keep family happy!!!

[CJM72]

I'm not dead, but my predicitions for a slow progression with 3 little kids have come true! I had to pull of my beautiful Doug Thorley headers and replace with some LS3 camaro manifolds I already had. I just couldn't get the clearance for the headers without beating in the firewall. If anyone is interested in the headers, shoot me a PM!


I blasted and painted the manifolds with POR's High temp gray paint and baked them in my grill to cure them. They came out decent and will do for now.

Also got my Lokar style shift linkage hooked up to the 4l65e. The detent isn't fantastic, but I'll need to adjust it once I'm up and running.

[CJM72]

Also swapped out the driver's side door hinges with an old pair I had lying around. Had to machine the slots a bit to get enough adjustment, but now the drivers side door is closing nicely and the body lines are a little bit better. Definitely not perfect, but at least I'm not using the latch pin to hold the door up now.

Next up was to rebuild the steering and front end a bit. The driver's side ball joints were shot. Replaced driver's ball joints, bearings, and seals. Also upgraded all the original steering components. Tie rods, drag link ends, ball joints....almost everything appeared original!

[CJM72]

Next up is wiring. Started laying out and plugging in my BP Automotive reworked harness. Everything on the motor is now plugged in. Just need to plug in the trans. connectors, O2 sensors, MAF, etc. Wired up my temp. sender to the original green wire and also connected the purple starter wire. Trying to pick through some of these things before I drop the front clip back on. Hopefully that will happen soon and I can start working on the rest of the wiring and PCM mounts.

Dropped the old gas tank last night. It was dented in the back and the gas gauge wasn't reading right, so I'm replacing it with a new one and a new sender.

Hmm, wonder why that guage was off?

[CJM72]

I drained what was left for fuel and used a cold chisel to cut off the old filler neck. Was slightly concerned about sparks and vapors, but I went for it anyway. Worked pretty damn good and was off in just a few minutes.

Heated up the solder and pulled off what was left of the tank from the unreplacable filler neck. Rumor is the neck on the replacement tank is brazed on and should be swapped by a professional shop. I'll be looking for a radiator shop in the southeastern MA area if anyone knows one. Don't seem to be many around any more.

Rubber vent lines and filler hose are pretty much shot. I'll be replacing all of that when I put the new tank back in. I'll be running an external Walbro pump and vette regulator with factory style nylon lines and quick connects. Should have gone with the 87 style tank, but I already had the LMC tank from before I started the swap. Hope it works!

[jaros44sr]

Nice write up, good work. If I remember there is a place to but the filler hose as it is an odd size

I found a shop in Rochester NY.

[CJM72]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Nice write up, good work. If I remember there is a place to but the filler hose as it is an odd size

I found a shop in Rochester NY.

Thanks Jaros! Yeah, the filler neck is 1 3/8". I just ordered some from fillernecksupply.com. Everything was so dry rotted, I'm planning to replace all the vent hoses and clamps. The one time I filled it up before I started the swap, gas was pouring out of the 1/2" vent hose!

[MrBeast]

Nice blazer, I will be watching to see how she turns out.

[ls1nova71]

Just reading through your thread and noticed something. You're correct that the power steering pump with 2 ports is from a hydroboost equipped truck, but if you're not running hydroboost, then you need to cap off the upper fitting on the reservoir and plumb the return from the steering box to the lower one. Running it to the top fitting can cause fluid foaming, which is why they return the fluid to the bottom of the reservoir.

[CJM72]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

Just reading through your thread and noticed something. You're correct that the power steering pump with 2 ports is from a hydroboost equipped truck, but if you're not running hydroboost, then you need to cap off the upper fitting on the reservoir and plumb the return from the steering box to the lower one. Running it to the top fitting can cause fluid foaming, which is why they return the fluid to the bottom of the reservoir.

Wow, thanks for the heads up! I capped the bottom port and couldn't find much info on how to plumb the dual return pump. Should be a bit of a challenge to make the turn around the frame without hitting the pulley! Would like to convert to hydroboost eventually though.

I have some family stopping by to help put the front clip on tonight. Guess I'll have to fix it the hard way this weekend with the inner fender in the way.

[jaros44sr]

I would leave the inner fenders out till last, lotsof room to work on the engine if you take the wheel and tire off as well

[KeithT712]

Awesome build! Followed your link from the headers, pumped to follow this and see how it turns out!

[CJM72]

Just came on to vent. Been trying to realign my front clip for the past week or so. I'm not a body guy and this truck is kicking my ass. Hood and drivers door fit like crap when I bought this truck. Got the driver's door closing nicely, but I can't get the hood to fit well. I know the gaps on these trucks weren't great from the factory, but 46 years of use and abuse have me scratching my head. Frame doesnt seem like it took a hit and body seems reasonable square on the chassis. Just for giggles I also installed a new grill shell to add to the pain. Lots of chips in my paint, lots of curse words, minor progress. Think I need to reset my expectations and just shoot for panels that latch properly even if the gaps suck.

Once I get the hood latch straightened out, I'll post some pictures. Just needed to blow off some steam!

[Duraburb]

Awesome Build! Look forward to seeing more!

[mongocanfly]

Just read thru your build...and read about your door fitment being bad...I had a 72 k5 long long ago...if i took the top off the doors were jammed and wouldnt open....put the top on and doors work fine....
Nice job on the LQ9...

[rowdy11]

Subscribed...good write up and thanks for sharing, particularly on details like the shifter, PS lines, body alignment etc.
Slow and steady!

[CJM72]

Originally Posted by rowdy11

Subscribed...good write up and thanks for sharing, particularly on details like the shifter, PS lines, body alignment etc.
Slow and steady!

Thanks! I'm not dead and do have updates coming. Fuel system done, front clip aligned, working on cooling then wiring. Hoping to be running this spring.

[CO71Blazer]

I'm in the same boat as you, three kids, 10, 6, and 5 and a very understanding wife. My truck is my daily driver but I don't have a garage in which to work. Your thread, and others like it, have inspired me to keep faith that I can get my truck back in good shape. The body on mine is rough. Better than some, worse than others.

Keep up the great work!