Total $$ invested in restoration

[Already Gone]

Originally Posted by Lanman1972

I have 14,500 total in mine. Did all the work including paint. All new bed and wood floor. Paid 5K , 1972 highlander, 402, PS, PB, A/C, 77K miles. Needed the usual cab corners, inner and outer rockers and floor sections. 1st pic when I drove it home. Already had the 20's and wheels. Don't have a good pic available of the bed, but it is beautiful.

Nice truck. Have you posted your truck in this thread?

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...20#post7826220

[Already Gone]

Originally Posted by Coley

How much....wow, what a great question.
First as the guys have said....don't do it...lol, instead buy one, definitely way cheaper.
Here is my advice:
Take $8-$12k and buy a nice truck, quite solid (absolute very minimal rust) and close to what you want in model and options.
Drive it for 6+ months so you start to love it.
Then put another $10k into it...that puts you at about $20k or close.
You will probably be very close to exactly what you wanted all along. You won't be hitting Barrett/Jackson but you will be at all the show 'n shines and proud of your ride.
....my two bits.
All good
Coley

Pretty much right on Colin. That is what I did. At my age I figure this is the last truck I will have so I bought a good one and am changing things up as I go. I've acquired original buckets/console to install and will eventually get atilt wheel. I'm doing all original or refurbished original parts.

[Already Gone]

Originally Posted by Lanman1972

I have 14,500 total in mine. Did all the work including paint. All new bed and wood floor. Paid 5K , 1972 highlander, 402, PS, PB, A/C, 77K miles. Needed the usual cab corners, inner and outer rockers and floor sections. 1st pic when I drove it home. Already had the 20's and wheels. Don't have a good pic available of the bed, but it is beautiful.

Nice truck. Have you posted your truck in this thread?

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...20#post7826220

[Tom Vogel]

Originally Posted by jocko

I don't keep track because I don't want to know. And I haven't even started the restoration yet.

This^^^^^

[CUSTOM/10]

I don't know exactly but I have approximately $25K into mine and it's not quit done yet. I farmed out the Paint & Body work, motor & trany, and seat upholstery, but did everything else myself. I have most of what I need to finish it other than exhaust, that will also get farmed out !

Gary

[Already Gone]

This is just my opinion. If you can fund it this is the way to buy a truck. Its all there with everything done and the only thing I'd do to it is turn the raised white letter tires to blackwalls, but thats a personal thing. Write the check and start enjoying.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/292001361114...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[MLB57]

18 doing all the work and lot of searching for good deals
Posted via Mobile Device

[MLB57]

Originally Posted by MLB57

18 doing all the work and lot of searching for good deals
Posted via Mobile Device

Posted via Mobile Device

[davepl]

Waaaaaay cheaper to buy a finished truck.

I have $80K in mine. Lots of people have a LOT more than they think in their trucks. I took the time on this project to record everything, even paints and materials, and it adds up. Some highlights:

The Truck $6,700
Paint and Body $20,000
Interior $2,500
Engine $6,500
Rear End $3,300
Transmission $2500
Repro Dual Batteries $600

..and so on. It adds up fast.

But the kicker is while I put $2500 up there for the transmission (4L80E in this case) don't forget the core. That's another $750. Oh, and a computer to run it and a harness, that's another $1000. Oh, and a box to run the speedometer, that's another $500. That's how your $2500 transmission turns into a $5000 transmission.

Everyone can build them cheaper, but park one next to mine and tell me it's nicer for a lot less. Unless you can do your own paint and body, it's not going to happen.

You could also take one of these and drop it off at Musclecar Restorations in WI and come back in 3 years with a $200,000 check. -That's- the expensive way to do it. So in my mind I saved about $120K in labour :-)

The upside is I get to drive around in a brand new 1970 truck with the exact options and configuration I would have ordered.

[Coley]

Some interesting approaches here and they are probably all accurate.
Always remember....one man's restoration is another man's project or starter truck.
A lot of this clearly depends on what fully restored means to someone on a personal (not market) basis.
That said, I would not recommend that anyone ever advertise their truck as 'fully restored'....because is it essentially a non-existent condition...99.999% of the time.
good feedback so far on this....

All Good
Coley

[BILT4ME]

We are into our current project of a 1970 K2500 GMC about $8000 and it doesn't even run yet. It depends on WHAT you start with, how much you paid, how much labor you do yourself.

We are using this one as a teaching tool for our oldest son and it will be his truck when done.

We THOUGHT we got some decent quality when buying, but there were MANY hidden things like a rear differential that had welded pins and broken spider gears in a Dana 60. Broken leaf springs, cobbled up stuff to make something run, and 40 years of construction worker "I'll just make it run" crap. Spun bearing races inside the hubs, axle shafts that were WORN OUT (splines were razor thin) and a guy with a welder that welded on EVERYTHING and wasn't very good at it.

If you're starting with a MO truck, there is rust. Buy a cab out of CA or TX or AZ and bring it in. As well as a bed, front fenders, frame.....and the rest of the truck.......

I built a 1969 K10 36 years ago and over the 10 years of the project (I was driving it most of the time) I had about $12,000 into the truck in 1981 dollars. By the time I was done, I had four parts trucks, an Impala for parts, and a field full of carcasses. When I was done, it was a WORK TRUCK, not a cream puff, or even a great restoration. It was my daily driver built the way I wanted it. It was MY education when I was 15-17 years old. The education I got from that truck was PRICELESS. I apply what I learned there to what I do every day.

Good Luck!

[davepl]

Originally Posted by Coley

That said, I would not recommend that anyone ever advertise their truck as 'fully restored'....because is it essentially a non-existent condition...99.999% of the time.

I agree, and it's a peeve of mine. Mine's not 100% stock, but it's 99% restored. Everything is restored. There's nothing I didn't refinish or replace with NOS. I should have sent the heater box out to that expert, it would have turned out a bit nicer, though. So I'll say 98%.

What drives me crazy are cars advertised as "no expense spared" restorations. Really? Did they:

- Install new date-coded side glass?
- Professionally refinish EVERY piece of stainless trim?
- Rebuild the rear end entirely?
- Rebuild the steering box internals?

Generally I can tell almost everything I need to know about a vehicle by standing at the A-pillar and looking there. Far too often you'll see old side glass, scuffed up stainless, dirty VIN numbers (on cars). That's as far as I often need to look, especially at auctions.

[HO455]

I need to add to my first post that I didn't include my $5400 price of admission in the dollar amount. "$5400 for that" Was the guote when I rolled into the house.

[DEK5]

I'm relatively new to the world of ground up builds, restorations, etc...but from what I've been throw over the past 4 years all the above is information is very true. My dad & I just finished (if that's really possible) a 1957 GMC stepside that has been converted to a 56 chevy front end; total rebuild of the entire truck but still won't say it's 100% restored since originality was not a factor for us and it's running in the high 40k range at this point for parts, labor, paint, etc... with a good bit of sourcing done by us/me to manage the cost. Additionally I'm in the process of redoing a 1974 C10 that was "decent" truck 100% reliable mechanically and between the truck, parts, paint, misc stuff I'm at about 16,000. While it looks good I can still easily see another 5,000 without touching the motor or trans.

If you are trying to simply determine the dollars and sense of it all, I think a budget of up to 40k can get you MOST things and something to be really proud of and show off; of course the sky is the limit from there. So yes, a bought vehicle is always more cost efficient BUT how many of us would trade the "cost" of developing friendships, parent/child or sibling relations, the learning curve, etc... for a bought truck???

[volksworld]

wow where do i start....bought mine in 1975 for 100 bucks...good thing i didnt buy it as a parts truck cause it didn't have any good ones!...out came the 6, in went a 350 and on went a wrecker boom and it was my daily driver and shop truck...got a 73 rear and a disc brake front end from a 75 suburban (no aftermarket kits back then)....somewhere in the 80's it rotted so bad i got a $ 1600 oklahoma truck and did a cab swap....late 80's saw the 350 burning oil so i had a 454 crate motor (LS-6....3500 at the time)sitting around from another project that never happened...it got 9-1 pistons put in and after realizing it had no low end torque for towing it got oval port heads and edelbrock performer cam,manifold and carb...(probably another 2 grand)....had enough torque to grenade the muncie 4 spd so i put the saginaw 3 back in and drove it very conservatively.....ok, now lets skip to the 2000's....starting with what i just described, the resto began...the new cab had since rotted a bit and got a real chevy l/s rocker and some minor patchwork ....the recession hit and since i had virtually no work in the shop it was time to attack the truck...but of course since i had no work in the shop i also had no money...so stuff like rear discs and tubular a arms were totally out of the question and the goal was to re do what i had in what was probably the cheapest but most labor intensive way....i had friends whose bodyshops used dupont products so thats what i used....up to this point paint and bodyshop supplies(including tape, tack rags sandpaper etc) and stuff i sent out for powdercoating (cheaper than paint) was $ 3400.... mechanical restoration was all new brakes and master, lines , drums and rotors, new leaf springs and coils (2 inch drop) etc....intake was pulled off the still low milage block blasted and clearcoated, engine painted and detailed,carb and dist rebuilt,alt rebuilt in chrome case, starter rebuilt ,all new cables, stainless battery box,new u joints, ball joints....cab got all new rubber,handles and trim...so about 800 bucks for body related stuff and around $ 2700 for mechanicals....made my own mounts for seats i already owned so no upholstery money there...re-used gauges...so there you go, over 7 grand to go through a truck that really had nothing wrong with it, with a fresh engine and virtually no rust....and its not done yet....retiring and moving stalled the project and it still needs $800 bed sides, a tailgate, a wood bed kit and 4 new tires plus paint and materials for the bed ....i have a turbo 400 to put in that will still have to be gone through ....so at least another 2 grand to finish it....keep in mind i've owned a repair shop for 40 years and obviously have a big compressor, mig welder tubing benders.lathes,blast cabinet,grinders,sanders, spray guns, etc,etc,etc.and doing everything myself....fortunately a lot was done long enough ago that real gm stuff was available....dont want to know what the nos stepside fenders my wife bought me in the 70's and i havent installed yet are now worth!

[RenoKeene]

Since one of the hats I wear is that of a commercial estimator and having built mine I can give you a baseline for what it costs to build a nice truck..

Starter truck..$5000. It pays to start with a good one.
Parts truck...$1500. Yes, you'll need one of these.
Engine rebuild...$2500. If you already have a decent motor.
Crate Engine...$5000. If you don't have a motor.
Transmission Rebuild....$1000.
Rear Differential Rebuild....$1500 Posi carrier, axles, seals, gears
Brakes...$1500. Front Disk, Rear Drums, lines, booster, master
Wiring.....$1500. Everything front to back, with A/C
Body and Paint....$8000. You can spend a lot more, easily.
Interior....$2500. Buckets, Carpet, door panels, dash pad, cluster, Tilt, etc.
Suspension Rebuild....$1000. Springs, shocks, bushings, spindles, etc.
Wheels and Tires.....$2000. More or less, depends on style.
Other stuff.....$1000. Radiator, gas tank, lights, wipers, etc.

That's $29,000 if you were counting and these are conservative numbers.
Wait, I forgot the A/C! Another $1000. That's 30K
Doesn't include Labor....but we're just having fun anyway.

[Grumpy old man]

If I had to pay myself I couldn't afford me !

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

My experience so far and some anticipation. The truck was in nice condition from start. I didn't spend a lot of time on this, but it's probably +/- 2-3K

[mikecaddy500]

paid 2300 for a nice looking alabama truck. Ended up replacing inner and outer rockers, cab corners, and patching the front fenders.Runs and drives good. I'm hoping to finish it for about 8000. I have bartered for some of the welding and bodywork though.

[88Stanger]

$800.00 for truck running 2 years ago this March.

now, completed, 16,500.00 approx. i did all my own work, from motor to paint, with help from friends and good prices.

[James the III]

Originally Posted by 57taskforce

I hear that. One time I left a receipt out for a couple grand worth of parts I bought.... she gets mean when I "forget" to tell her when I spend money like that! Wouldn't trade her for anything in the world tho.

Oh,, I don't hide it..
My last project vehicle.. all the receipts came in with parts.. and was in an unlocked file cabinet..
But , THAT SAID.
When I was adding up all the receipts to get a "feel" for what to insure it..
The whole "cost" was what threw her a curve ball..
It wasn't the 500.oo here the 100.oo there.. it was the 24k parts total..

This time when I started with parts showing up she asked what I thought the truck total would come to.. and I guessed stage 1 about 10k and then stage 2 another 10k.. and she was that's allot of money.. And I said I agree..
and I took here out to lunch. on way home we stopped at a new car/truck dealer and we walked over to a new truck and I said .. what is cheaper..
The look of the sticker shock was priceless..
When the vehicle she drives needed tires, to prove a point I let her take it in and write the check, she almost passed out when she had to cough up a check for 1200 for tires.. As she doesn't have a clue on cost of things like this..
So, she said I just don't wanna know.. still don't hide it.. and I only get stuff when there is extra funds.. but she just doesn't want to know..
Once she knew the other project vehicle was 24k in parts ,and then my labor, she wouldn't drive it..
It's just less stress this way.. If she ever ask I'll hand her the folder full of invoices.. but I doubt she'll ask.. Took a few years but she is getting a handle on the fact that anything automotive is not cheap. be it a collector/fun car/truck or the daily driver..
The dealership walk through. and it costing 30k+ for a truck that be worth crap not long after and spending say 10-15k and if you sell it getting most of it back.. she got..
Bad part is now she wants a 60's rustang

[James the III]

Originally Posted by dfwright

Even if you do the work yourself, if you don't have all the tools, big compressors, paint guns, etc, these add up very quick as well as the parts and supplies for the restore.

Part of the fun of owning an old vehicle is fixing/working on it..
and the tools cost is an investment, and only hurts the first time..
the 2nd vehicle.. and the daily drivers that you can now work on your self makes it all worth it.
The build is half the fun.. And sure it be awesome to just buy one done, but the chance of finding one the way you want it.. is not always an opinion..
unless you buy it and then have a shop build it. and that gets mighty pricey .

[James the III]

Originally Posted by RANDY COX

Yep I've always said that too, always cheaper just to buy one already done...but when you can't afford to do that then do what you can when you can atleast that's what I do..

It's always cheaper to buy used.. no matter if it's one of these trucks already built or a new vehicle..
This should not be a shock to anyone..
But.. the hobby vehicle. be it these trucks or any other old car/truck.. it is easier for most to slowly chip away at it.. as funds come avail..
The swallow a 15-20k all at once isn't what most can do.. That's hard enough for the daily..
I look at the truck build as the finance plan
Just like the daily that has a monthly loan bill..
Biting off a little at a time.. If I had to eat the whole cost at once.. it never happen.. It's great that some can do that.. but I'm not on that bus..

[67ChevyRedneck]

I used to be able to justify my hobby to my wife because my daily driver was a 00 Z71 I bought in early 2005 and had paid for by late 2006. I had zero car payments for 9 years, until I bought a brand new 2015 Z71, now it's hard to justify truck payment and car parts, but new Z71 should be paid off in 3 months, then back to parts buying

[Coley]

The point about doing the work, or buying the parts, incrementally over time and thus, making the cash outlay a little more digestible...makes sense on many levels.
I think something what is key here....is, as Renokeene said, always trying to start with a good, solid truck...($5000+).
It seems the biggest cost is the bodywork (correct me if I'm wrong) so you can save yourself thousands of dollars if you can avoid having to do repair on every panel or surface on the truck.
When I start to hear about complete cab replacement and door replacement, rust repair on the box, etc....I can just feel my wallet start to cry...lol.

All good
Coley