Dual tanks, 1978 short bed

[gmachinz]

I do think making an ISO metric bubble in the lines @ the Pollak valve would work too-only 6 lines to do there.

[HunterRotten]

Thanks for that bit of information!! I try to update these threads with what ideas we have come up with or what decisions were made so when someone has the same questions they'll be answered with a quick google search to here.

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by gmachinz

Here's some ideas I pulled from another site....mainly because I like different ways of accomplishing the same objective. First, you need to use fuel injection hose that is rated for high pressure i.e. more than 50 psi. The rating on the hose must read: SAE 30R9. You can tell also by the blue inner elastomer liner it has-this type of hose is good up to 180 psi.

Next, to secure the hose to both your hard lines and your Pollak valve, simply use fuel injection band clamps. While on the topic of securing the FI hose, check out the method used in the pics I attached-shown is a guy using a compression fitting as normal only to "compress" the ferrul tight to the line-he removes the fittings leaving the ferrul in place and cuts off the fitting. Then, he slides the FI line over the ferrule (and it is indeed a super snug/tight fit!) and secures with a FI band clamp.

This is a good, budget friendly way of adding FI hose to both your fuel line and the Pollak switching valve. The FI band clamps work-after all, Pollak wouldn't offer a 65 psi valve if plastic barbs weren't going to "hold" onto the fuel line-just make sure to use the correctly rated hose and related band clamps and you'll be ok!

The SAE J30R9 Spec states 100PSI working pressure not 180. Goodyear J30R9 hose has blue elastomer liner but not all of them do and the Goodyear hose is only rated at 100PSI working. http://goodyearrubberproducts.com/20...s/page0032.pdf

There are several types of tube beaders that will make raised beads near the end of hard lines to retain hoses on copper and steel hard lines. Parker are the gold standard but you'll pay for em. The Earls beading tools will do just fine if you're only making a few.

Worm clamps are close to worthless on small diameter hoses. Oetiker ear clamps that Harley uses on their oil lines, German Fuel Injection Clamps, and Rotor-Clip style constant tension band clamps are a better choice. If you have access to the female fittings for Jubilee and similar ends like GM used on recent transmission and oil cooler lines they can be formed with the correct dies on a Mastercool hydraulic flare tool.
I did a writeup a while ago on SAE hose types, clamps, and some tube tooling here. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=696742

[HunterRotten]

I went to order the fuel lines today and realized something - I'm not sure what fuel lines i need. I currently have both of my 1987 tanks with the baffles (Prt # GM11C) mounted up on the truck, and the driver side has the wires mated up to the in-take walbro pump rated @ 255 lph.

So, what fuel lines do I need? For a 1978 truck.. or a 1987? The price difference is really big. Would I be alright running stainless lines for a 1978 truck, or do I need the ones for a 1987 that specifically say FUEL INJECTION on the item description? I'm not sure what the real difference would be?? They're the same size and everything.

[BSanchez87]

With dual tanks, and each tank is a 2 port, can I use fuel hose to bridge the tanks to the selector instead of hard lines?

Also, while I'm here, do the brake lines go inside or over the frame when it crosses the motor mounts. Thanks.

[gmachinz]

You should really use as little hose as possible to maintain a constant system pressure. Only use hose when you HAVE to and then only properly rated efi hose and related fi band clamps.