Going to the DYNO today

[jessemthompson]

Boy, this is a tough crowd! I hope his session went well and that he's just celebrating Easter with the family.

[71threequarterton]

Originally Posted by NC_John

He probably got abducted and is now with Monroe on the same spaceship.

This

[The1960APE]

It should run good, 70MM may be a tick small for that engine and front mount but should work fine My guess on HP would totally depend upon amount of boost achieved and if it had enough fuel , that is a pretty small pump....all pending the tranny held up!
440@6ish psi
504@8psi
587@13psi

[Overdriven]

Originally Posted by 72 tigger

Maybe he's changing his user name to: 1lesstoy

Not very optimistic but I'm sorry that was funny!

Originally Posted by jessemthompson

Boy, this is a tough crowd! I hope his session went well and that he's just celebrating Easter with the family.

Same here, hope all went well for him. Some weren't all that sensitive with their posts but I think they did raise some valid concerns as well. Tough love?

I hope to one day have a turbo LS under my hood too but I have a lot of work ahead to get there.

[1moretoy]

Hey guys I was out of town for the weekend and decided to let everyone get it out of their system before I responded. Well everything went ok until the end. Ended up at 427 HP and 449 TQ @ 8#s of boost. Pulled it out of the shop and started discussing numbers ect as they seemed low to me. Went to put it on the trailer and noticed lots of smoke from under the hood. Opend it up and it was coming out of the catch can breather. It smoked a little before but normal amount with no PCV. Now it was smoking like a chiminey. Went for a short drive computer hooked up and all. Everything looked good minus the smoke, still pulled really hard. Did a compression test Saturday and #7 was at 60#. FML. seems like a common problem with the Ls1 and boost. I'm currently looking into a forged 370 iron block. I've waited to long to drive this ****.

https://youtu.be/DyqwqHZNnX4

[Bigdav160]

Sounds like it leaned out.

[Shinysideup]

Sorry to hear that. The tune let you down not the block.

[Overdriven]

Sorry to hear that. I'd be tempted to pull it, check the bore and if good just slap another piston in it until you finish building or get another long block. No idea what your goals are so up to you what route to take. Personally I've seen enough stock bottom end Gen4 L33's over 600whp that aren't ticking time bombs that it's the route I'm going to take.

I thought LS1's shared the same weaknesses as other Gen3's though? The main ones being rods that don't like much more than about 550whp and pistons that fall apart when they get a whiff of detonation. I hate to be an internet speculator but I'd place more blame on the tune than the engine too at that HP level unless it was running out of fuel and the injectors are out of duty cycle.

[davepl]

Originally Posted by Shinysideup

Sorry to hear that. The tune let you down not the block.

^^^ This. Don't throw more blocks/pistons/parts at it without understanding from the dyno logs why it let go.

I'd tend to guess detonation under boost damaged a ring land. Or maybe it leaned out and heated up enough that the ring gap closed up.

Best of luck to you, looks like a fun project!

[TrkEnvy]

I was really pulling for him to come back and destroy the haters with big numbers and no breakage.. Sorry to hear about the dead hole. Was the motor modified for boost or was it a stock ls1 bottom end? It was previously mentioned that the top ring closes up under boost and breaks the top off the piston. If they haven't been opened up that could be a starting point if you decide to rebuild.

[72 tigger]

Well shoot- really sorry to hear you have a problem. Sorry for poking fun at your delayed response- just figured the #'s weren't what you wanted. Hope you can figure out the best route to go.

[trac209]

I don't think it was anyone hating on it,I only commented how it was weird we got a today style post and a cliff hanger for awhile. Sorry the engine got hurt.

[1moretoy]

All good boys I can dish it and take it. As you can imagine I was pretty bummed and with easter on Sunday I didn't want to be in a bad mood for the kids sake. Decided to put the cover on it and not think about it. But easter is over and now I'm on a mission lol.

[Spullar]

Nothing like a little friendly ribbing amongst friends! Glad to hear you are ready to move forward!

[HO455]

Originally Posted by 1moretoy

All good boys I can dish it and take it. As you can imagine I was pretty bummed and with easter on Sunday I didn't want to be in a bad mood for the kids sake. Decided to put the cover on it and not think about it. But easter is over and now I'm on a mission lol.

Glad to hear coming back. Its part of the game. If you play sometimes you pay. I got trailered home from my last dyno session. Broke the case on a 727 in two.

[Heavymetl]

Dang, sorry to hear about dead #7.

As I've posted before, when it comes to turbo stuff, I think of it in these terms.
1) Fuel system (Boost ref FPR, injectors, pump, etc)
2) Engine management (stock ecu is not the best choice)
3) Trans/Converter
4) Right sized turbo

After that, just about any LS engine is fine for a wicked street machine.

[Tom Vogel]

They are not taking care of you at the Dyno. The goal shouldn't be to destroy the motor for high numbers, but to get a proper tune.

[Spullar]

Originally Posted by Tom Vogel

They are not taking care of you at the Dyno. The goal shouldn't be to destroy the motor for high numbers, but to get a proper tune.

This makes me afraid to bring an engine in! If I ever get to that point, I need to spend some serious time vetting operations.

[davepl]

I'm at that point. Here's my own "1 more toy" built from spare parts and headed to the dyno. I'm planning to take this approach:

- No boost, get a decently fuel map in there, likely 11:1 or fatter
- Set the timing map conservatively at 15
- Add boost until I'm satisfied
- Maybe try adding some timing back in

What I don't know is how much boost do you add before you give up adding boost? Do you watch intake air temp?

As long as there's no detonation, why not more? I'm limited by the fuel system at around 1200hp anyway, so I'm hoping to hit 1000 and call it good.

Could go on the dyno as early as this week, just need to weld one more O2 bung in for the computer.

[Overdriven]

Originally Posted by Spullar

This makes me afraid to bring an engine in! If I ever get to that point, I need to spend some serious time vetting operations.

Originally Posted by davepl

I'm at that point. Here's my own "1 more toy" built from spare parts and headed to the dyno. I'm planning to take this approach:

- No boost, get a decently fuel map in there, likely 11:1 or fatter
- Set the timing map conservatively at 15
- Add boost until I'm satisfied
- Maybe try adding some timing back in

What I don't know is how much boost do you add before you give up adding boost? Do you watch intake air temp?

As long as there's no detonation, why not more? I'm limited by the fuel system at around 1200hp anyway, so I'm hoping to hit 1000 and call it good.

Could go on the dyno as early as this week, just need to weld one more O2 bung in for the computer.

It's all about experience. Experience with the ecu/tuning software, experience with similar engine combinations etc. For instance a shop that usually builds and dynos carbureted engines and just got HP Tuners isn't the place to take your stock ecu turbo build.

But the shop that's experienced with turbo builds can look at the logs (IAT, AFR, fuel pressure, etc) and dyno curves and know how far to push it without hurting it. I'm no pro, but from what I gather you add boost and/or ignition until the point of diminishing returns. When starting out 1psi of boost or 1 degree of timing may net you 25hp. But at some point you won't gain 25hp per increment of boost or timing, you may only gain 10hp. The diminishing return lets you know you've reached the combination's max potential and pushing it further won't give much benefit unless your chasing that last tenth. IAT's will tell you how efficient your turbos are and how good your intercooler is. There's some rules for IAT's that factor in to the grand scheme too though.
AFR and the diminishing return thing effect the tune the most though, get that right and then it's just a matter of having strong enough components to hold the power.

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by Tom Vogel

They are not taking care of you at the Dyno. The goal shouldn't be to destroy the motor for high numbers, but to get a proper tune.

If the dyno operator isn't a tuner for said application, how are they responsible? Most times people take their car or truck already ready to be ran on the dyno and haven't even put it on the street. most guys would tell the operator, hey take it easy the first pull or two. I just built this thing. That's what I usually do. No full power pulls until you work some bugs out. Haha

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by davepl

I'm at that point. Here's my own "1 more toy" built from spare parts and headed to the dyno. I'm planning to take this approach:

- No boost, get a decently fuel map in there, likely 11:1 or fatter
- Set the timing map conservatively at 15
- Add boost until I'm satisfied
- Maybe try adding some timing back in

What I don't know is how much boost do you add before you give up adding boost? Do you watch intake air temp?

As long as there's no detonation, why not more? I'm limited by the fuel system at around 1200hp anyway, so I'm hoping to hit 1000 and call it good.

Could go on the dyno as early as this week, just need to weld one more O2 bung in for the computer.

That's gorgeous! What is it going into? I have very little experience with blow through carb. But I believe you are on the right track. Air fuel ration plays a lot into it too. Add boost until it gets too lean. I have a big idea to add a turbo or turbos to my 354 after I build the engine.

[The1960APE]

I would be interested in what the AFR was across the dyno, if it was leaning out which I also suspect, then the dyno operator should have aborted mission and suggested a fuel pump swap before proceeding, I'm not saying what happened was the operators fault, but every time I have one on the dyno they pay HEAVY attention to the AFR numbers!

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by 1moretoy

Hey guys I was out of town for the weekend and decided to let everyone get it out of their system before I responded. Well everything went ok until the end. Ended up at 427 HP and 449 TQ @ 8#s of boost. Pulled it out of the shop and started discussing numbers ect as they seemed low to me. Went to put it on the trailer and noticed lots of smoke from under the hood. Opend it up and it was coming out of the catch can breather. It smoked a little before but normal amount with no PCV. Now it was smoking like a chiminey. Went for a short drive computer hooked up and all. Everything looked good minus the smoke, still pulled really hard. Did a compression test Saturday and #7 was at 60#. FML. seems like a common problem with the Ls1 and boost. I'm currently looking into a forged 370 iron block. I've waited to long to drive this ****.

https://youtu.be/DyqwqHZNnX4

that is a lot of smoke. sorry it broke. Sucks having to take it back out of the truck again....

[67 chevelle]

Originally Posted by davepl

I'm at that point. Here's my own "1 more toy" built from spare parts and headed to the dyno. I'm planning to take this approach:

- No boost, get a decently fuel map in there, likely 11:1 or fatter
- Set the timing map conservatively at 15
- Add boost until I'm satisfied
- Maybe try adding some timing back in

What I don't know is how much boost do you add before you give up adding boost? Do you watch intake air temp?

As long as there's no detonation, why not more? I'm limited by the fuel system at around 1200hp anyway, so I'm hoping to hit 1000 and call it good.

Could go on the dyno as early as this week, just need to weld one more O2 bung in for the computer.

This deserves it own thread , 402 motor ?