Trikebent's 40/46 Project

[Trikebent]

The stock steering wheel/box were removed by the PO. I'll be using a Mustang II non power front end/steering. I'd like to use a stock steering wheel and possible a van column without the ignition switch. What does it take to mount a 40-46 wheel on a column like that?

[joedoh]

quite a bit actually. the 46 was the last year that mounted with a woodruff key. in 47 they switched to the splines that they used all the way through the 2000s. so if you had a 47 wheel, it would bolt right on the van column. the way it is though you would need to add the splines. if it were me I would probably use a hole saw and cut the steel center out of later wheel keeping the spines and the horn pass through intact, then cut the center of the 46 wheel, and have someone with a tig welder weld them together for me.

but it doesnt end there, the early wheels dont fit the van column in diameter either, so you would need to add a cosmetic piece to cover the gap. its not impossible, some guys have done it on the 47-53 side of things. I really prefer the 41-46 three spoke to the 47-53 three spoke so I would try to keep it too.

[Trikebent]

OK update time.
I have leaned what the differences are between a 40 and 41 cab. I have a 40 cab and I believe the rest is 41-46.
40 cab has:
No Clutchhead screws
Bolt in back window
Front fenders do not bolt to cab sides
Firewall is 1.5 inches closer to the back of the cab
The removable floor pan is 1.5" shorter as well
Windows do not have a frame around the glass

To marry a 40 cab to 41-46 front sheet metal I need to:
Extend the firewall to Core support brace by 1.5"
Extend the inner fender 1.5: back to the firewall
Drill Inner fender mounting holes in the firewalls
Drill matching holes in side of cab to bolt fender to cab
Mount the rear hood latch 1.5" forward of the current firewall or extend the latch rod 1.5" back.

[Trikebent]

Found THE way to remove stubborn screws. I have a old air powered Dayton 1/2 drive impact wrench. I also have a Craftsman 'Hammer style' impact driver. The Craftsman has an adapter from 1/2 drive to hex. That adapter fits the Dayton and lets me use the Dayton on stuck screws. A quick tap with the impact and the screws give up and turn or in rare case break the head off. It worked like a champ on the door hinge screws.

[CSHADES]

actually the 41 still had a bolt in rear window. I have had different 40 cabs with clutch head screws and with out. The frames are also different 39-40 to 41-46 by an inch and a half of length.

[Trikebent]

I pretty sure I have a 41-46 frame. Wheelbase is 115"
I had everything bolted down, cab, bed & core support. With an extension in the firewall to core support, Hood/grill/ fender & running boards all fit pretty well. The inner fenders did not come all the way to the firewall. I had a 39-40 frame, I don't think I could get the hood/fenders to fit?

[Trikebent]

Engine & trans roughed in. Engine is an 89 5.7 Chevy w/ TPI, 700R4 trans. I have the TPI computer & stock wiring harness. Winter project is to cleanup the harness.

[CSHADES]

sounds like you have a 41-46 frame from what you are describing

[dennislbrooks]

Aren't mustang front suspensions 5 on 4.5" wheels. The front driver wheel looks like a cutlas wheel, maybe not. Is it running adapters to 4.75?

[CSHADES]

Original mustII/pinto wheels are actually 4 bolt. You can run a 1973-77 chevelle front rotor with the Mustang II bearings and races and an aftermarket bracket for 78-88 monte carlo calipers. You can also install Granada front rotors for the ford pattern

[Trikebent]

I need to measure the pattern on the front hubs. There are no adapters.
The plan was to use Granada Rotors with the GM pattern, but maybe someone has already swapped in the Chevelle rotors

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by Trikebent

I need to measure the pattern on the front hubs. There are no adapters.
The plan was to use Granada Rotors with the GM pattern, but maybe someone has already swapped in the Chevelle rotors

those are cutlass rally wheels in your first picture, should be 5 on 4.75. remember when you measure a 5 lug pattern its center to EDGE, not center to center.

[Trikebent]

OK, I have GM 5 on 4.75 on both front & rear. Lucky again
Does the Chevelle rotor use the Stock Mustang bearings? If not I hope the PN are still on the bearings.

[CSHADES]

Use the mustang II bearings and RACES, Use the chevelle seal. There isn't enough room for the washer, nut and tin lock nut unless you can find a washer/nut combo. I usually don't use the washer and haven't had any problems.

[Trikebent]

Great!
I was planning on Granada rotors & GM 'metric' calipers. I didn't know about the Chevelle option.
Currently beating on sheetmetal right now. Using a HF hammer & dolly set to work out the kinks in the front fenders. Very happy with the results so far. Using a borrowed MIG welder to repair the cracks. Plan is to have it all ready to sand & prime by spring. getting too cold to paint now.

[CSHADES]

The Granada rotors are a direct bolt on. The must II and Granada rotors use the same bearings and races as far as I know. The chevelle rotors just give you the option for the 5 x 4.75 bolt pattern. It depends on the rear axle bolt pattern you are using.

[Trikebent]

Rear end is a 76-79 GM 10 bolt posi that I plan on staying with at this point, so I have matching bolt patterns.
I hope to covert the rear to S10 disc brakes during the build.

[CSHADES]

you need chevelle rotors if that is the rear end you are planning on using because if you use the Granada rotors they are not going to match bolt patterns