Ridetech 4-Link Coil-Over Install

[JohnJ@RideTech]

The only modification left to do on the rear end of the truck before re-installing the bed was to clearance the bed floor cross member per the measurements in the instructions and apply a rust preventative coating.

Once the coating was dry, the bed can go back on.

[JohnJ@RideTech]

Originally Posted by northern 85

I would love to test drive this set up!!! I have a static 4-6 drop on my 66 trailing arm truck,,,,,any suggestions??

For sure! We have a similar coil over kit for your truck as well that utilizes a trailing arm style suspension. Check out the link below, it will take you to the product page on our website.
http://www.ridetech.com/products/sus.../product-3296/

[JohnJ@RideTech]

After the rear was buttoned up, we put the bed back on and got it all bolted back down.
Just an FYI, the rear bed bolts back by the bumper bracket were a complete pain in the butt! If anyone has a better suggestion for how to get those off other than 20min with an open end wrench, I would be glad to know. It seemed like no matter what I tried, I couldn't get anything to fit in there.

[moregrip]

I'm not in the market for something like this but I wanted to say how cool this is! Lots of detail and thought put into this kit for sure!

[JohnJ@RideTech]

Moving on to the front.

Removal of the factory components is pretty straight forward. Because our StreetGrip kit utilizes the same spindles found in the new coil over kit we chose to keep all of those components intact for this build.
Once you have the vehicle supported, remove the brake calipers and tie them up out of the way. We use a little bailing wire to secure them towards the front of the truck.
Once the brake components have been removed, support the lower control arm with some sort of jack. Because we were using a 2 post lift, we used a transmission jack under the arm. With the jack compressing the spring, we removed the castle nuts from the spindles as well as the outer tie rod ends.
Side note: Put the castle nut back on the tie rod end that way you don't spend 15min trying to find it because you forgot where you put it.
With the castle nut removed from the upper and lower ball joint, we took a metal chain and ran it through the coil, looped it around and secured the ends together. This will keep the coil spring from shooting out when you start to relieve tension.
Using the floor jack and some caution, we began to slowly let pressure off of the spring. Once we got to a certain point, we use a pickle fork to break the ball joint free from the spindle. Once the tension is undone, remove the chain and the spring will come out. We have used a spring compressor in the past. If you decide to go that route, be sure and use a quality tool. Its not worth loosing the use of your fingers or hands to save $20.

[JohnJ@RideTech]

Once you have all of the factory suspension components removed, the next step is to remove the factory coil spring bucket brace.




There are 4 factory rivets that will need to be removed in order to install our upper coilover mount. To remove these, we cut a (+) pattern in the top using a small angle grinder. Once the rivets had been cut, we used an air chisel to knock them the rest of the way off.




So I got a little spray paint happy and went ahead and cleaned up the bare metal areas and hit them with a coat of paint BEFORE I realized we needed to trim out the upper spring bucket. For purposes of this build thread, I'm going to say it was intentional so that you could see the yellow marker where it needs to be clearanced out. This will allow the new upper mount to sit flush on the spring bucket.

[JohnJ@RideTech]

Once everything is cleaned up (and repainted) you can go ahead and install the new upper coilover mount using the hardware supplied in the kit.







There are 4 bolts with washers and lock nuts that secure the mount to the top of the spring bucket.

[JohnJ@RideTech]

After the upper coil over mount was installed, we began putting on the lower control arms.

It is hard to tell in the picture but the control arms are labeled for their correct side and the lower ball joints and cross shafts are already installed when you get the components.

Using the factory control arm u-bolts, we installed the lower arms to the frame. The Delrin bushings in the StrongArms allow the piece to move freely up and down (reducing stiction and noise) even when the u-bolts have been torqued down.

Be sure to pay attention to the instructions when you install the arms. Indexing holes have been machined into the lower cross shafts so that you properly locate the arm during installation. These indexing holes will ensure that the wheel and tire are centered in the wheel well.

[91short]

Awesome kit! Is this available for 88-98 trucks, or in the works?

[JohnJ@RideTech]

Originally Posted by 91short

Awesome kit! Is this available for 88-98 trucks, or in the works?

Thanks man! I appreciate the feedback.
It has been discussed. We are working on a 99-06 kit right now. If we put the 88-98 kit in the works, I will be sure and let you know.

[JohnJ@RideTech]

After the lower control arms are installed, we went ahead and began working on the uppers.
The upper control arms will not have the ball joints installed when you get them. All of the hardware is included. We went ahead and put the ball joints on before we installed the arms.





Before placing the upper control arms on the mounting studs, we went ahead and installed the caster slugs. The kit will include the standard caster slug with the number 2 on it. On the driver side, the cross shaft needs to be turned so that the Air Spring Logo is facing towards the tire with the arrow pointing towards the front of the truck. The caster slug will be installed with the number 2 facing out. Re-insert the alignment shims in the same stack and the same location that they were when the front suspension was disassembled.

[JohnJ@RideTech]

On the passenger side, ensure that the Air Spring Logo is facing towards the wheel and the arrow is pointing towards the front of the truck. On this side, the caster slugs install a little differently. The #2 will be facing towards the engine with the number on the right side of the mounting stud.

[JohnJ@RideTech]

Before installing the front coil over, add just enough preload with the shock fully extended to keep the spring from coming loose. This can be done by tightening the spanner nut on the shock body until the spring is held in place.

With the upper StrongArm installed, the coilover can be attached to the lower control arm and mounted to the upper bracket through the spring bucket. Preload can be added later to set your ride height.

Once the coil over is installed and supporting the lower StrongArm, the spindle, disc brake assembly and outer tie rod end can all be re-attached to the truck.

[JohnJ@RideTech]

After we had the front end buttoned up, it was time to install the front frame bracing included in the kit.

These components are designed to take the flex out of the front of the truck and add support to the steering box area. The braces will give the truck a better feel through corners and remove the steering box flex under hard cornering. The cross brace has Heim ends and lock nuts for adjustability.

Installation of these pieces is pretty straight forward. The instructions will tell you what bolts will need to be removed and where holes will need to be drilled. Just like the c-notch, we used a center punch and a pilot hole before drilling to final size.

[JohnJ@RideTech]

Once the bolts have been removed per the instructions, the components can be mocked up and the holes drilled.
After those steps are completed, you can move forward with installing the braces.

[rip2174]

Really nice set up. What are the wheels and tires? Size and back spacing?

[JohnJ@RideTech]

Originally Posted by rip2174

Really nice set up. What are the wheels and tires? Size and back spacing?

Thanks! Im glad you like it.
Currently, they are 255/45 20 all the way around. Unsure of the backspacing, I've never measure them. Next time I have the wheel off I will see what I can come up with.

[cruizin01]

Looks awesome. Thanks for posting. Still waiting on that give away on your take off parts ;-)

[chocdrop]

What is the drop amount with front coil over kit? Does this kit center the wheels also? Rear kit looks great

[JohnJ@RideTech]

Originally Posted by chocdrop

What is the drop amount with front coil over kit? Does this kit center the wheels also? Rear kit looks great

I will get some approximate measurements off the truck tonight to see just how far off the ground it is right now. I think the stance looks good.

The front kit does center the wheel in the wheel well. There are indexing holes in the cross shaft that set into the factory cross member pins. They locate everything correctly before you tighten the u-bolts on the lower control arms.
Thanks for the compliments. I think it turned out really nice.

[91short]

Originally Posted by JohnJ@RideTech

Thanks man! I appreciate the feedback.
It has been discussed. We are working on a 99-06 kit right now. If we put the 88-98 kit in the works, I will be sure and let you know.

Damn, I hope you guys make a kit for the 88-98 trucks. Or I just might have to find myself a square body.

[JohnJ@RideTech]

Originally Posted by 91short

Damn, I hope you guys make a kit for the 88-98 trucks. Or I just might have to find myself a square body.

Get you one of each! Lord knows the trucks aren't getting any less expensive!

[Coursey]

How does this kit compare to the streetgrip kit?

Also, what is the ride height on this kit compared to the streetgrip?

[JohnJ@RideTech]

Originally Posted by Coursey

How does this kit compare to the streetgrip kit?

Also, what is the ride height on this kit compared to the streetgrip?

We just ordered some 18in wheels and tires for the truck so we are wanting to get them swapped out in order to have a more "common" measurement. The tires on the 20in wheels you see in the picture weren't the best but in regards to ride quality, it does wonderfully up and down the road. It will really change your mind about how a performance suspension should feel.

I haven't been able to drive it on dry roads yet so I am really looking forward to being in it around some hard corners. I have high expectations of the kit and I am sure I wont be disappointed.

[Coursey]

Originally Posted by JohnJ@RideTech

We just ordered some 18in wheels and tires for the truck so we are wanting to get them swapped out in order to have a more "common" measurement. The tires on the 20in wheels you see in the picture weren't the best but in regards to ride quality, it does wonderfully up and down the road. It will really change your mind about how a performance suspension should feel.

I haven't been able to drive it on dry roads yet so I am really looking forward to being in it around some hard corners. I have high expectations of the kit and I am sure I wont be disappointed.

Thanks,

I drove your 69-72 c10 in Louisville and really liked the streetgrip on it. I was holding out on ordering it to see how the coilover kit compared cost and height wise for my 78.