'71 C30 Flatbed Budget Restomod

[l_alvis]

Thanks guys. I liked the stance too, but I can't wait until the truck sits level on the frame!

Here's another pic of the 14 bolt after blasting and a quick layer of paint until I finish building it. All the parts are in and look nice. However, I was a bit disappointed to see the Detroit Truetrac is a product of Taiwan...

Another interesting thing I found is the spring perches seem to be in the same spot as the factory diff, I think I recall reading those needed to be moved in along with flipping a shock mount.

[l_alvis]

Forgot to update but the 14 bolt was installed a few months ago. After unbinding the leaf springs I found that 5 of the leafs had been split in half (yikes). Loving the new gearing as I can actually get to interstate speeds without fearing of projectile parts (an OD transmission would still be nice though). I had to go without rear brakes for the time being as discs don't quit fit between 16.5" wheels. I believe with a little grinding it will clear though, worst case a small spacer with get me that last bit of clearance.




I realized I'm going to need to set aside a bit of time to come up with a four-link that does what I want. I removed the flatbed for probably the first time in 40 years to work on the rear easier and it made me think about other options. I always liked the custom dually beds made with stepside fenders and thought about trying it out, but sourcing parts has proven very difficult without breaking the bank. I may have found a Longhorn bed which would be awesome since I could keep the 133" wheelbase. I really shouldn't get distracted with cosmetics at this point but I've gotten pretty obsessed here recently with making this a really cool build.

[l_alvis]

I decided to take the plunge and go full resto on this old truck. I'm probably leaving the "budget" mindset this project was originally based on behind, but I'm tired of dreaming. It may take a long time but I want it to be perfect - no more regrets on how I should've done it.



The biggest challenge is going to be the bodywork. Even though the truck is fairly straight, the paint is pretty awful and the cab corners/rockers are pretty much wasted. I've stripped it down about as much as I can and am going to try pulling the cab. My thoughts are that it will give me the opportunity to blast the frame and fab up the suspension in the meantime. I also still want to pursue the fleetside/stepside hybrid, but that is less of a concern at the moment until I get further along with whats in front on me.

Choosing a paint scheme has also been more difficult than anticipated. These trucks just seem to look good with anything. The easiest would be to just redo white but I'm wanting something I can really shine up. I'm a big fan of gunmetals like thunder grey on the CTS-V and tungsten gray metallic on newer Silverados. Possibly having a white roof like this truck sans the trim molding and lower white section.

[StingRay]

Just an FYI. The cab and chassis rear axle width is different than a standard pick up box axle width. A cab and chassis rear end is the same width as a normal single wheel rear end and a stock box will have just a little of the outer wheel hanging out. You will need a pick up rear end to use wide fenders and then get your 4 feet between the wheel wells. I've always liked the look of the standard narrow box with the wheel tubs widened towards the frame. Can't get a sheet of plywood int there though.

[l_alvis]

Originally Posted by StingRay

Just an FYI. The cab and chassis rear axle width is different than a standard pick up box axle width. A cab and chassis rear end is the same width as a normal single wheel rear end and a stock box will have just a little of the outer wheel hanging out. You will need a pick up rear end to use wide fenders and then get your 4 feet between the wheel wells. I've always liked the look of the standard narrow box with the wheel tubs widened towards the frame. Can't get a sheet of plywood int there though.

Thanks for the tip. I noticed the wheels were barely past the cab when I last took measurements. Older duallies are puny compared to their modern counterparts.

[StingRay]

Modern duallies have a lot more GVW too. You'd need a C40 or C50 to match up with a modern diesel dually. Even a 1990 square body dually on gas had a lot more front and rear suspension than my 69 C30. I think the one I got a front end out of had at a huge diff under it. Made my 14 bolt FF look like a 10 bolt. Probably an 11.5" corporate.

[CG]

Originally Posted by StingRay

Just an FYI. The cab and chassis rear axle width is different than a standard pick up box axle width. A cab and chassis rear end is the same width as a normal single wheel rear end and a stock box will have just a little of the outer wheel hanging out. You will need a pick up rear end to use wide fenders and then get your 4 feet between the wheel wells. I've always liked the look of the standard narrow box with the wheel tubs widened towards the frame. Can't get a sheet of plywood int there though.

I don't have plans to do this, but just curious (sorry to jump in on your thread OP) are you saying on my 71 Cab and Chassis DRW I could put a pick up box on there (if the 157 inch wb was shortened) and the outer wheel would stick out just far enough to not allow the box to sit lower than the actual wheel/tire? So basically I'm asking can the truck be lowered tucking the outer tire/wheel?. I already knew the inside of the bed would be compromised with 71 stock DRW. Thanks OP for letting me ask on your thread!

[StingRay]

No. The outer just sticks out past the box. Just a little. Typically commercial truck fender rubber is added to the wheel lip to cover the tire. Looks pretty good actually. The first time I saw was about 30 years ago on what was probably a 133” 4x4 with a Longhorn box. I did a triple take. The truck needs to sit tall to keep tire contact with the box from happening.

[CG]

Thanks for the answer!

[l_alvis]

For a rainy weekend project I decided to refurbish an old heater control panel. I've got a couple more in good condition but this one was pretty far gone so I thought I'd experiment.

I 3D printed a new panel to sit inside the controls with labels that correspond to the VintageAir system if I ever go that route. I planned on getting some sticker paper that can run through the printer to put in the middle, but for now handwriting is used as a placeholder. I don't know if I'll even use this but it was an interesting project nonetheless.

[goldenburb]

How did you lower the back? And did I miss read u r putting on a box bed. Thanks for posting.

[l_alvis]

The rear isn't lowered yet. I pulled the flatbed to fab up a 4 link with air and while it's off I decided to dive in and fix a lot of other things like the rusted cab corners and rockers.

I'd like to put a longbed bed on it just to have something different, but not sure exactly what I'm doing just yet. However, I'm fairly certain the flatbed I have won't be returning.

[l_alvis]

For the first time in months it got warm enough to get some work done. The body and chassis are now divorced so maybe I'll be able to start the restoration process a bit easier. The cab bushings were unbelievably wasted and two of the bolts were already broke anyways...good thing I didn't take it autocrossing.

[67_C-30]

Cool project!!


If you could find a Longhorn bed, you can build a dually without cutting your frame. To put a normal bed on it, you have to cut 6" in front of the axle and about 4" (IIRC) off of the end of the frame.


Here is a narrow rearend C-30 with a Longhorn bed.

[67_C-30]

I cut down my frame and cut down step side fenders on my truck with a wide rearend out of a '97 C-3500.

[l_alvis]

I actually saw your thread a while back and it led me to wanting a dually bed. Unfortunately I've come to realize that it's a very difficult project to do on a reasonable budget, at least for me. I really don't want to shorten the frame and I've only found 1 Longhorn bed in the past 5 months and it was 7hrs away and in pretty rough shape. Stepside fenders are also a rarity and I have a hard time justifying reman ones if I'm just gonna chop them down.

The bed situation is on the backburner right now, but I'm probably just going to build a custom flatbed to accommodate the air suspension since I'm too cheap/picky to do it otherwise.

[l_alvis]

I spent the day making filler panels for the various holes on the firewall. This was my first go at using a welder and after a few burn-throughs and setting adjustments I started to get the hang of it. The bigger pieces have been fully tacked and ground down smooth, but the smaller stuff drilled through over the years is going to be another days project. I'm excited to see what it will look like once it gets a nice layer of body filler.

[l_alvis]

Last weekend I got more time in with the MIG and patched several more holes on the firewall, plus the radio are on the dash that was tore up. After a bit on grinding its starting to shape up. I plan on getting some bar stock to form around the wire ditch area and give a smoother transition to the cab.

I'm starting to feel much more confident in my welding ability so I might purchase some formed panels and start repairing the rockers. After thorough investigation, I didn't see much rust aside from the rockers and rear cab corners, which I already knew were bad. The floor is in great shape and even the trusses beneath aside from one in the back corner. Even though I know it's going to be a huge time sink fixing it all, I'm just glad it's not as far gone as some other trucks I've seen.

I also worked on a new SPID sheet since the original was in rough shape and I plan on repainting the cab anyway. I've seen where some offer services for a perfect replica, but being as I'm not trying to make this a collector piece I was okay trying my graphic design skills on a close enough rendition. Little details like this are one of my favorites, even if they take a lot of time and no one sees it.

[67_C-30]

Looks great! I plan on have a SPID done with all the stuff I've added to my C-30.

[l_alvis]

C-notch has been fabbed in this weekend since no more parts yet for the cab. Such a monster notch, but unfortunately not a frame scraper, although it is within an inch at the lowest point. I'll be sketching four link designs in the coming weeks...or maybe just keep the heavy duty leafs

[goldenburb]

Now we"re talking.

[l_alvis]

The past few weeks have shown some progress. Picked up a load of sheet metal to replace rockers, cab corners, etc as well as a few odd and end resto parts. I modified an offroad truss to fit between the c-notch that way the upper links have a spot to mount, these frames are really narrow. Also I finally finished smoothing the firewall by adding a strip across the top. I plan on running the A/C lines hidden from view by going sideways out the firewall and making a bend in behind the fender.

[Getter-Done]

Great Progress.
I like the Great job you have done with the firewall.







.

[l_alvis]

The main geometries of the 4 link have been established. At ride height I've got a pretty good IC and pinion angle after taking a bazillion measurements. I know it looks like the upper bars are offset but trust me they are dead on, the 14 bolt design has caused quite a headache on this project.

I've still got to add shock mounts and figure out a cross member or two to add strength while also maintaining driveshaft clearance.

[a.c.ward]

on your Air Conditioner lines, here's what I did on mine, open up the hole for the pass fresh air vent, install bulkhead, and run the lines between the outer and inner fender. very clean and pretty much invisible