My “FREE” 56 truck build!

[Krustyone]

Little update. Got the frame rails done and got the m2 front tacked in. I only had to retack twice

[Krustyone]

Gonna have to clearance for the arms and rack. Expected. Not quite so much though. Welders series instructions were off a bit so had to adjust the spring hats a bit. It was a pain to get the angles correct. I don’t like how the hats are joined to the frame so I will add some reinforcements.

[Krustyone]

Any recommendations for bags? Thinking about the super slam 6”. Not sure if I need to go 7” ?? Most of my builds have been light. This truck won’t be. 🤪

[slammed57]

Man.... lookin good jon....REAL good! you may have to run some air bag spacers as for the super slam 6 bag need to right around off the top of my head 7" height from top to bottom for a good ride that should put you right around 80psi

[dsraven]

are you using a digital level to get the angles? if not, I recommend that. put it across the lower control arms, front to rear, and they should be level at your desired rake angle you want. it's important to get the frame set at the rake angle and level side to side first, then do the front end angles with the digital level. for side to side on the cross member you can use the lower control arm pivot bolts, just leave them sticking out the front side enough so you can put a straight edge across them and make sure they still are in the hole on the back side of the cross member. using the top or bottom of the cross member is sort of guessing at that angle because the pivot holes may not be perfect with the edge of the cross member due to the bending process or whatever, if you get my thought process. I am sure you have that figured out by the pics, looks like a well thought out process you have there. maybe useful info for somebody else who reads the thread though.
when I started mine I used a 4ft bubble level on the frame. got it all good and used the level both ways to check for differences in the level, then sat my digital level on top. it was out a couple of degrees. it doesn't seem like much until it comes time for an alignment and they do those to tenths of a degree. hmmm

[dsraven]

boxing the upper pivot mount would be a good idea

[dsraven]

looks like you have it done already but hard to tell in the pics if you have an anti dive angle built in to your upper control arm mounts. I used 4 deg on mine as recommended to me. I also have my upper arms sloping slightly down towards their pivots when the lower arms are level side to side. that way the tire will angle in at the top as the suspension travels upward so the tires won't rub. they may angle out a bit before angling in again on the downward stroke but the tires would be dropping out of the fenders at that point anyway so less of a concern.
keep the pics coming, you have me curious now. nice job so far. it's the first welders series MII I have seen on here, maybe I just gotta look better?

[slammed57]

dsraven is on point! great advise and yes definely box in the upper mount... I rather any day be over built and more weight added than less weight, lighter and a crack somewhere down the line... we're not buildin race cars here...lol

[Krustyone]

Originally Posted by dsraven

are you using a digital level to get the angles? if not, I recommend that. put it across the lower control arms, front to rear, and they should be level at your desired rake angle you want. it's important to get the frame set at the rake angle and level side to side first, then do the front end angles with the digital level. for side to side on the cross member you can use the lower control arm pivot bolts, just leave them sticking out the front side enough so you can put a straight edge across them and make sure they still are in the hole on the back side of the cross member. using the top or bottom of the cross member is sort of guessing at that angle because the pivot holes may not be perfect with the edge of the cross member due to the bending process or whatever, if you get my thought process. I am sure you have that figured out by the pics, looks like a well thought out process you have there. maybe useful info for somebody else who reads the thread though.
when I started mine I used a 4ft bubble level on the frame. got it all good and used the level both ways to check for differences in the level, then sat my digital level on top. it was out a couple of degrees. it doesn't seem like much until it comes time for an alignment and they do those to tenths of a degree. hmmm

Yes, the first thing I bought was a digital level. I'm wearing it out. I based everything off the lower arm bolts being square and level. I built and leveled the chassis table with the digital meter as well. Thanks.

[Krustyone]

Originally Posted by dsraven

boxing the upper pivot mount would be a good idea

I plan to box everything. I will probably extend the shock tower sides down along the outside of the frame for some extra contact area to spread out the spring forces. They are a bit high and have limited side contact at the moment.

[Krustyone]

Originally Posted by dsraven

looks like you have it done already but hard to tell in the pics if you have an anti dive angle built in to your upper control arm mounts. I used 4 deg on mine as recommended to me. I also have my upper arms sloping slightly down towards their pivots when the lower arms are level side to side. that way the tire will angle in at the top as the suspension travels upward so the tires won't rub. they may angle out a bit before angling in again on the downward stroke but the tires would be dropping out of the fenders at that point anyway so less of a concern.
keep the pics coming, you have me curious now. nice job so far. it's the first welders series MII I have seen on here, maybe I just gotta look better?

Yes, 4deg anti dive angle. upper arms slope a bit down towards the center as well. Thanks.

[Krustyone]

Originally Posted by slammed57

Man.... lookin good jon....REAL good! you may have to run some air bag spacers as for the super slam 6 bag need to right around off the top of my head 7" height from top to bottom for a good ride that should put you right around 80psi

Thanks. You're my inspiration, so if it all goes south, well.... haha.
I'm making some spacers for the top of the bags to get them in the right place.

[slammed57]

Originally Posted by Krustyone

Thanks. You're my inspiration, so if it all goes south, well.... haha.
I'm making some spacers for the top of the bags to get them in the right place.

hahaha , thanks my brother... check your e mail,I sent you an e-mail yesterday

[clegg]

Originally Posted by Krustyone

This is my goal for stance. (Example below) I could use some advice. Planning to bag it I think.

Here is my plan:
I have a 420 hp small block from my old 32 roadster ready to run.
4 spd Muncie m22 and found a forward mount shifter to allow a bench seat.
Ford 9” posi of some sort. Probably source from curry.
4 link rear with watts link or panhard. Possibly a triangulated 4 link.
Stock looking exterior and interior. Love the classic look, with some modern convenience like vintage air and carpet dynamat etc.
Bench seat with shoulder belts and a middle seat belt for the little one.
Flat blue or black paint with steel wheels and whitewalls.
Disks all around, power rack and brakes.
Classic wood stained bed, raised a little for dropped suspension.
Rear mounted gas tank or or fuel cell.

Looking really good so far.
Any chance you would know what Mecum Auction that truck was from? I like the paint color.

[Krustyone]

Originally Posted by clegg

Looking really good so far.
Any chance you would know what Mecum Auction that truck was from? I like the paint color.

I'm not sure what you mean by Mecum Auction. I got the truck from a family member. ?? Or am I missing a joke here???...

[joedoh]

krusty I think you might have just forgotten what truck you posted as inspiration.



it has a mecum watermark

[Krustyone]

Originally Posted by joedoh

krusty I think you might have just forgotten what truck you posted as inspiration.



it has a mecum watermark

Yup. Didn't remember that. haha.

[Krustyone]

Got the front crossmember boxed, the reliefs cut out and boxed for the steering rack.


http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1548884636

[Krustyone]

cut a roof panel out of the donor cab and covered the sunroof hole.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1548884803

[Krustyone]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1548884930

[dsraven]

be real careful about heating up the roof panel when welding that skin on. use a hammer/dolly after each short weld so it doesn't shrink up and distort everything. let it cool off between welds. better to waste time welding that doing bodywork later. I like to have a couple of things on the go when doing that stuff. do a weld then go do something else till it cools off.

[Krustyone]

Originally Posted by dsraven

be real careful about heating up the roof panel when welding that skin on. use a hammer/dolly after each short weld so it doesn't shrink up and distort everything. let it cool off between welds. better to waste time welding that doing bodywork later. I like to have a couple of things on the go when doing that stuff. do a weld then go do something else till it cools off.

Thanks, that is the plan. I'm in no hurry. I should just glue it on with some 3m body panel adhesive. Kidding, sort of...

[Krustyone]

Well I screwed up my steering rack. I can’t get the damn ends off to install the 2” extensions. I heated it up thinking loctite, and the damn plastic bushing melted. I cranked on it with a 3 foot wrench and nothing. How the eff do I get these off??

[Scottish58chev]

Is that both sides? 1 side isn’t a left hand thread per chance? Just a thought
Posted via Mobile Device

[Krustyone]

Originally Posted by Scottish58chev

Is that both sides? 1 side isn’t a left hand thread per chance? Just a thought
Posted via Mobile Device

I thought that too but nope. Both normal based on the extension threading.