69 Burb speaker/amp/sub suggestions needed

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by BIGglaSS

I think that's a better choice. Unless you already have MDF and carpet on hand, you can't build a box for that price. However, custom built, you can tailor the box to fit the spare tire carrier, and/or make it look like a spare.

Will work on that later, just want to get everything up and running right now. Thanks again for all of your help .

[slowcpe]

I agree a sealed box is the way to go. I personally think they sound better. Didn't think much of it since boat and sxs systems usually go ported due to more output. In a vehicle/home, sealed is my personal preference.

For the few systems I do, I try to buy prefabbed enclosures as much as I can because I'm too lazy to build a custom box.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by slowcpe

I agree a sealed box is the way to go. I personally think they sound better. Didn't think much of it since boat and sxs systems usually go ported due to more output. In a vehicle/home, sealed is my personal preference.

For the few systems I do, I try to buy prefabbed enclosures as much as I can because I'm too lazy to build a custom box.

Same here, . Everything is ordered, should be here by Friday, .

[Hart_Rod]

All the components showed up yesterday. I got the rear speakers mounted. Looks like I will need a 0.5" spacer for the front ones. Where do you guys usually source these? Where would you suggest mounting the amp? More questions I now, , . OBTW, I hooked just the rears up last night and I think it's going to kick when everything is in place, . Thanks for all of the help, !

[BIGglaSS]

Excellent! This has got me motivated to work on my truck again, just so I can get the stereo installed. You can mount the amp just about anywhere. Under a seat, or on one of the rear side panels. Or even recess it into one of the side panels.

Stereo installers typically make their own spacers out of MDF or ABS plastic. There is an assortment of them on Amazon for under $10. But none of them list exact dimensions. So, no guarantee of which ones are an exact fit. Maybe you could find some locally to check the size first?

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by BIGglaSS

Excellent! This has got me motivated to work on my truck again, just so I can get the stereo installed. You can mount the amp just about anywhere. Under a seat, or on one of the rear side panels. Or even recess it into one of the side panels.

Stereo installers typically make their own spacers out of MDF or ABS plastic. There is an assortment of them on Amazon for under $10. But none of them list exact dimensions. So, no guarantee of which ones are an exact fit. Maybe you could find some locally to check the size first?

Good idea. I'll check and see what I can find. Really getting excited to see how this all turns out....

[slowcpe]

I use the Metra spacers, in fact I'm going to order the 1/2" from mine as the 1" seems to be more than I need. If you can't find them let me know and I can get you a set.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by slowcpe

I use the Metra spacers, in fact I'm going to order the 1/2" from mine as the 1" seems to be more than I need. If you can't find them let me know and I can get you a set.

Will do, Thanks!

[Hart_Rod]

1/2" spacers won't work for my speakers, will have to use .75 or 1",

[Hart_Rod]

I think I'm going to try and mount the amp to the bottom of the buddy bucket center console. I plan on mounting it upside down, I hope that isn't a problem...Thoughts??

[duke_lbz]

It will be fine mounted upside down.

[BIGglaSS]

Not sure what the kick panel in those look like. Can you massage it with a BFH to make clearance for the speaker vs using a 1" spacer?

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by BIGglaSS

Not sure what the kick panel in those look like. Can you massage it with a BFH to make clearance for the speaker vs using a 1" spacer?

Unfortunately a bfh is not an option. Will have to figure something else out.

[Hart_Rod]

OK, pretty much have the rear done other than finishing up the sub box. Now I'm in the process of mounting the amp and have a few questions. I've attached the Retro sound stereo schematic, and I'm assuming that I can use all the RCA outs (front, rear, sub) to run to the amp? And would just disconnect the other speaker wires? Also, the amp instructions suggest two fuses? is that necessary? Last question, what is metal connector in the last picture? It was in with my wire kit. Thanks,

Rob

[slowcpe]

Yes use RCAs and no need to hookup speaker wire to the head unit.

It’s late and I’m too tired to look at the schematic but I run a fuse for the amp power wire near the battery.

Can’t really tell what the connector is.

[BIGglaSS]

There's 2 fuses built into the amp. You still need to use the fuse block supplied with the install kit. Put it as close to the battery as you can. That looks like some kind of power or ground distribution block. I don't think you need it. Here is an explanation of how to hook up power and ground. http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/5002090-post19.html

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by slowcpe

Yes use RCAs and no need to hookup speaker wire to the head unit.

It’s late and I’m too tired to look at the schematic but I run a fuse for the amp power wire near the battery.

Can’t really tell what the connector is.

Kewl. That makes sense with the RCAs (I told you I was a stereo illiterate...

Originally Posted by BIGglaSS

There's 2 fuses built into the amp. You still need to use the fuse block supplied with the install kit. Put it as close to the battery as you can. That looks like some kind of power or ground distribution block. I don't think you need it. Here is an explanation of how to hook up power and ground. http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/5002090-post19.html

Good deal on the fuses, I didn't even think about them. It will make connecting power wire easier, Will do on the large fuse that came with the kit, I already have plans on locating it.

I almost have everything laid out (pic included). 2 more questions:

(1)Will it be a problem if I mount the the amp to the floor board? I don't normally like using screws going to the floor board, but I don't have a lot of room to do anything else without getting too complicated.

**EDIT: Would there be a problem velcro-ing the amp to the carpet underneath the seat vice screwing it to the floor???? **

(2) The stereo has a "trigger" wire labeled amp remote. It powers on when the stereo comes on. I'm assuming it connects to the amp where it is label "REM"?

Thanks both of you for all of the help and suggestions.

R

[BIGglaSS]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

(1)Will it be a problem if I mount the the amp to the floor board? I don't normally like using screws going to the floor board, but I don't have a lot of room to do anything else without getting too complicated.

**EDIT: Would there be a problem velcro-ing the amp to the carpet underneath the seat vice screwing it to the floor???? **

Velcro is fine for an amp. Anything heavier like speaker boxes, etc should be secured. Some guys use riv-nuts with a dab of silicone sealant.

(2) The stereo has a "trigger" wire labeled amp remote. It powers on when the stereo comes on. I'm assuming it connects to the amp where it is label "REM"?
YES

Everything is looking good! That power block came with the amp; it looks like it fits exactly into the ground/rem/power lugs on the amp. Not sure why you'd need it, though.

Are you up to speed on how to set up the gain level, and filters on the amp? Don't run it until you do.

For the front speakers. 3 Options. 1- Make an angled spacer ring, it can help move the magnet, and aim the speaker better. 2- (I know you said NO to the BFH, but..) Get a small stainless steel mixing bowl (about 3" diameter) at the dollar store. Cut a hole in the kick panel where the speaker hits, and install the bowl with silicone and a couple screws. 3 - Make custom fiberglass speaker pods. I'm surprised they didn't fit. Retro has an option to load them with speakers that are 2.4" depth (maybe they install a spacer). The kick panels I have seen for other cars mount the speaker at more of an angle, which makes more clearance for the magnet.

Happy to help where I can. I know it's a little late now, but got a couple answers on the sub/ohms question. 1 guy said play it safe, only go below 2ohm if it is a high quality amp. and 2 guys said go for it, should be fine.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by BIGglaSS

Everything is looking good! That power block came with the amp; it looks like it fits exactly into the ground/rem/power lugs on the amp. Not sure why you'd need it, though.

Are you up to speed on how to set up the gain level, and filters on the amp? Don't run it until you do.

For the front speakers. 3 Options. 1- Make an angled spacer ring, it can help move the magnet, and aim the speaker better. 2- (I know you said NO to the BFH, but..) Get a small stainless steel mixing bowl (about 3" diameter) at the dollar store. Cut a hole in the kick panel where the speaker hits, and install the bowl with silicone and a couple screws. 3 - Make custom fiberglass speaker pods. I'm surprised they didn't fit. Retro has an option to load them with speakers that are 2.4" depth (maybe they install a spacer). The kick panels I have seen for other cars mount the speaker at more of an angle, which makes more clearance for the magnet.

Happy to help where I can. I know it's a little late now, but got a couple answers on the sub/ohms question. 1 guy said play it safe, only go below 2ohm if it is a high quality amp. and 2 guys said go for it, should be fine.

Thanks for the quick answers, I'll use Velcro and see how that goes as I prefer not to drill holes into the floor. I must have gotten the parts mixed up with that lug, but didn't see it listed anywhere.

It's really hard to explain, but there isn't room to recess the front speakers (refer to picture), I'll just have to figure it out another way (1" spacer probably).

I will not power it up or make any adjustments until I report back here!!! Thanks again,

Rob

[BIGglaSS]

The 'burb is looking really good. I like the clean houndstooth interior! We had a 70 sub when I was in junior high, over 30 years ago. But I can't remember what the kicks looked like. On my 57, there is a lot of room to cut into the cowls. But on yours, it looks like the area behind where the speaker goes is below the cowl?

That lug goes with the amp, I bet so you can hook up the heavy gauge wires at 90 degrees, or without it, straight out.

[BIGglaSS]

This is what I did on my 57. Covering the speakers with air vent grilles from a 64 impala.






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[BIGglaSS]

So, I looked at the pictures of the power lug block again. 90 degree turn is not the answer... Maybe to hook up a bigger or smaller gauge of wire?

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by BIGglaSS

So, I looked at the pictures of the power lug block again. 90 degree turn is not the answer... Maybe to hook up a bigger or smaller gauge of wire?

Bingo! That's exactly what it's for, the 2 gauge wire that came with my kit! When you have time, a write up on how to set everything up would be great.

Take care,

R

[BIGglaSS]

Tuning a system will vary from person to person and the acoustics of the install. This is generic, but will get you close. There are a few different ways to do this, because you have crossover control via the head unit, the amp, and the JL C5 crossovers. To keep it simple, this is how I would do it. In the end, you can tweak it to your taste.

Set channel mode switch to 4ch

Sub:
Unplug the front/rear RCAs. Plug one of the sub feed blue lines from the head unit (HU) into input sub 1. Set source switch to EXT. Start with level turned all the way down. Set subsonic about half way. This is more important if you have a ported box. But sealed box should be OK. Next switch set to LPF. Set LPF knob to about 2:00 position. Now go into HU settings and turn on SUB. Set SUB volume at 12. Set subwoofer Crossover frequency to SUB 120H. You should not need a higher setting from the sub. After you get it all installed, you can tweak the xover knob on the amp a little bit lower if the sub sounds too high pitch. Now play some music. Turn up the HU volume to about 3/4, and the remote bass knob to full. If the bass is loud enough, all is good. Otherwise, (on the amp) turn up the level knob until it is loud enough or the speaker distorts, then back it off slightly.

Next, rear speakers:
Unplug the sub and front RCAs, plug in the rear RCAs. Amp panel, lower row, left. Set switch to HPF. Set HPF knob to about 1:00. Level all the way down. Play music, HU at 3/4 volume. Turn up level until the rears are loud enough or start to distort. Then back off slightly.

Front speakers:
Unplug rear speakers and sub RCAs. Plug in the front RCAs. Since the C5 fronts have their own crossover network, no need to control it from the amp. You can set this switch to FULL. Turn level knob full down, and repeat for the fronts.

After the levels are set, plug in all the sources and play! After that, you can adjust tonally via the head unit (classic, pop, rock, bass, middle, treble). If you want to tweak the crossover slightly, you can turn the sub LPF down. Anywhere between 90-120 hz is fine. For the fronts, since the supplied C5 crossover has control, all you will be able to do is move the crossover point up. To do that, switch the front channels on the amp to HPF and adjust the frequency knob to what sounds good. Another option is change the jumper pins inside the JL C5 crossovers.

Hope this makes sense.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by BIGglaSS

Tuning a system will vary from person to person and the acoustics of the install. This is generic, but will get you close. There are a few different ways to do this, because you have crossover control via the head unit, the amp, and the JL C5 crossovers. To keep it simple, this is how I would do it. In the end, you can tweak it to your taste.

Set channel mode switch to 4ch

Sub:
Unplug the front/rear RCAs. Plug one of the sub feed blue lines from the head unit (HU) into input sub 1. Set source switch to EXT. Start with level turned all the way down. Set subsonic about half way. This is more important if you have a ported box. But sealed box should be OK. Next switch set to LPF. Set LPF knob to about 2:00 position. Now go into HU settings and turn on SUB. Set SUB volume at 12. Set subwoofer Crossover frequency to SUB 120H. You should not need a higher setting from the sub. After you get it all installed, you can tweak the xover knob on the amp a little bit lower if the sub sounds too high pitch. Now play some music. Turn up the HU volume to about 3/4, and the remote bass knob to full. If the bass is loud enough, all is good. Otherwise, (on the amp) turn up the level knob until it is loud enough or the speaker distorts, then back it off slightly.

Next, rear speakers:
Unplug the sub and front RCAs, plug in the rear RCAs. Amp panel, lower row, left. Set switch to HPF. Set HPF knob to about 1:00. Level all the way down. Play music, HU at 3/4 volume. Turn up level until the rears are loud enough or start to distort. Then back off slightly.

Front speakers:
Unplug rear speakers and sub RCAs. Plug in the front RCAs. Since the C5 fronts have their own crossover network, no need to control it from the amp. You can set this switch to FULL. Turn level knob full down, and repeat for the fronts.

After the levels are set, plug in all the sources and play! After that, you can adjust tonally via the head unit (classic, pop, rock, bass, middle, treble). If you want to tweak the crossover slightly, you can turn the sub LPF down. Anywhere between 90-120 hz is fine. For the fronts, since the supplied C5 crossover has control, all you will be able to do is move the crossover point up. To do that, switch the front channels on the amp to HPF and adjust the frequency knob to what sounds good. Another option is change the jumper pins inside the JL C5 crossovers.

Hope this makes sense.

Thanks for a great write up! WOW, who knew that it was this involved, . Will probably be sometime next week before I get that far, but I think your guide will the ticket to getting it to sound right. Any suggestion on what song to use for this? My choice would probably be something from AC/DC like Back in black.....