68 C40 Food Truck Build

[67chevemall]

Never heard of a c40. Cool project.
Bring it to Mafia Niagara falls make a killing.
And we have all the peameal bacon you can handle.
Double bacon double cheese for me please.

[palallin]

Have you checked in at the Heavy Haulers forum on this site?

[Unofornaio]

Originally Posted by palallin

Have you checked in at the Heavy Haulers forum on this site?

Been combing through it. It's as though I'm having the same issues finding stuff as those other owners if the same truck. Bummer..I did find some leads in there though so thank you I did not even know it was a forum on here.

[Unofornaio]

Originally Posted by 67chevemall

Never heard of a c40. Cool project.
Bring it to Mafia Niagara falls make a killing.
And we have all the peameal bacon you can handle.
Double bacon double cheese for me please.

Thanks. As I was viewing this post above it was an ad for pizza hut..lol these ad algorithms are kinda scary..why couldn't it have been a freaking ad for parts for this truck...lol

[zicc1835]

check this out I saw this on feebly http://r.ebay.com/YYTmMY say they are for a 50

[67 chevelle]

Originally Posted by Unofornaio

Thanks..I'd like to replace all of them and change it to a split system.. as I was describing the issue to my brother it hit both of us at the same time..our brains are a bit slow I'm 51and he's 65 . we laughed because neither of us could remember what they were called..any way that was the easy part. Looks like finding the parts is going to be the hard part. Nobody around here seems to carry or even list parts for the C40. I realize the engine, interior and glass are same as a C30 right? But what about chassis parts, drive train, suspension and brakes? Where can I get these parts from? These have 2 wheel cylinders top and bottom..there are not many REAL Auto parts stores left in this town.

Good idea for safety sake

[frenchy51]

Way cool! Keep us posted for sure.

[Unofornaio]

Thanks to all your help I've got some parts in hand and the rest on the way to me.
WHEEL CYLINDERS
P# 134.80010&11 (fronts)
P# 134.80013&14 (rears)
HARDWARE KIT
P# H9200
RETURN SPRINGS
P# H605
I will post pics of the process when I get back on here. The wife and I are taking a MUCH needed min 3 day vacation next week then back for a busy weekend. We we're feature on a local news station last week if anyone is interested in seeing what we do here is a link.
http://https://youtu.be/KPKJZd-P6-M
I have to mention I got some great help from a guy on the stovebolt.com "bigbolts fourm" c10-c90 bill turned me on to them. I will be going at this project full force after we get back, that is if I can, we have been booking jobs like crazy since our little news feature. This project was supposed to be done by July but that's not going to happen.. 🙄 But it's because of this forum I'm on the way I really appreciate it. I really hope those part numbers help someone in need.
Thanks again be back soon.

[Unofornaio]

Time Flies when your life gets in the way.. Well I am back at it guys or starting to get back at it. I have yet to do the wheel cylinders after that last post we got so freaking busy (good thing) then we have been having issues with the teenage son (bad thing).

So every month (ok not EVERY) I have been firing this thing up. My brother put a stock 350 in it thinking the orig was a 350 so this is what motor I have.

First CRANK and this thing fires right up but I believe the alternator is bad or going bad. I get 12v at idle and I have yet to check it at higher rpms. I believe it is a 1st Generation 10si? 9 oclock. The external regulator has been removed and all the wires are still there.

The regulator plug is still intact but the wires from the plug to the battery are cut (except for the RED) and the other end as well. There is no wiring that I can see running to the associated gauges.
At this point all I know is when I start it..it runs (idle cant drive yet because of breaks) like a freaking TOP till the battery is DEAD

UNlike the wheel cylinders information on the Alternator seems to be Everywhere. 10si.. 12si.. 130cs... 144cs.. 105 amps 120 amps metric bolts, serpentine belt pulley... Corvette.. GMC...

I think the 130cs is what I need for my application. I REALLY want to add ac to the cab in the future our summers are brutal here. In addition our travel distance is under 10 mile one way to our gigs right and that will be the same when this thing gets up and running. I do have a 6000kw Northern Lights Marine Generator to power the food operation so the alternator will just be for any cab/engine related power needs.

I am finding conflicting information on what to use for this truck or even the other C-Series trucks of the same error. Some say upgrade others say NO.
If anyone has an opinion about which alternator would be a good replacement Id love to hear it. I am going to continue reading maybe my confusion will turn around..

[RichardJ]

If you have a 10SI on there, I would stick with that. There are guys on this forum that love the CS130, but I an not a fan. They don't like heat. I've replaced the one on my '87 Vette several times, I believe because of high under hood temperatures. They have an external fan and an internal fan, yet heat is still a problem.

If your wiring is the same as the C10 and C20, then your wiring for the battery and charging circuit should look this with all the nonessential wires removed.
The Ammeter IS NOT part of the charging circuit. The 18B and the 18B/W and their 4 AMP fuses go to the BATTERY Gauge (Ammeter) and are not part of the charging circuit. The Ammeter does have a very small amount of current flowing through it, but for the most part, it is just looking to see what the charging circuit is doing.

There is a 16BRN that connects from the firewall connector, TO the #4 terminal on the voltage Regulator. Connect that wire to the #1 terminal on the 10SI alternator.

Connect the 12R wire on the #3 terminal of the Voltage regulator to the #2 terminal on the 10SI. Some guys connect a short jumper wire from the #2 terminal on the 10SI, TO the Bat terminal on the 10SI. Doing it either way works, but I like to wire it more like Chevy did it.

That 16BRN is the Sensing wire. It connects on the other side of the firewall to a resistance wire that connects to the ignition Switch. If you had a GEN light (idiot light), it would be wired in parallel with that resistance wire. If your dash doesn't have a GEN light, it doesn't matter. The resistance wire will still be there and work with the original 10DN and your newer 10SI.

The C10 - C20 had AC and were powered by the original 10DN. A newer AC system probably use less power and will do just fine with your 10SI.

[RichardJ]

Sorry, I used wiring diagrams that don't show where the Ammeter fuses connect.

[Unofornaio]

Going to tear into the brakes today. I wanted to ask about this brake vacuum canister.

1. Can it be moved approx 3' from it's original location to the inside of the frame?
2. Is the size dictated by my booster size?
3. Can it be down sized?
4. If it's working is there any reason to replace it with a new unit?

Reason for the questions is I would like to mount the Diesel fuel tank for my generation in that location and make some sort of access door in the step assembly. The underside of this truck holds valuble real estate and I'm trying to make the most of it. Fresh water, generator, grey water, dry storage, fridge space and on and on will be located under the bed.

Thank you.

[Unofornaio]

Those wheels and tires are freaking HEAVY. Now if I could just remember where to start the dissasembly. I will post more later. Those shoes look pretty meaty I think they are going to stay. Thoughts? Drum is beautiful no scores and just a tiny lip very slight. Couldn't get a good pic of it.

[Steeveedee]

Those shoes look close to new. Looking at all the crud in there, I think it's been together awhile. Maybe peel the caps on the wheel cylinders back a bit to see if there is seepage? Now would be the time to fix any possible leaks.

[KQQL IT]

Ventura fair '16

[Unofornaio]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Those shoes look close to new. Looking at all the crud in there, I think it's been together awhile. Maybe peel the caps on the wheel cylinders back a bit to see if there is seepage? Now would be the time to fix any possible leaks.

Thank you. I just finished replacing top and bottom wheel cylinders. The bottom was frozen which started this process. I will be doing the other side tomorrow. I mistakenly re connected the brake line that runs from the top cylinder to the bottom one. I need to flush out the old fluid I don't want to contaminate the new cylinders. I ended up buying all new hardware back when the issue first came up but everything looks good inside. I ALMOST left off the bottom "cylinder shroud" there was a lot of crap in there that I'm thinking lead to the bottom cylinder failing. I still have everything apart if someone feels like that is a good idea let me know and I will remove it or modify it.

[Unofornaio]

That GMC is interesting. Was that an ambulance?

[KQQL IT]

Originally Posted by Unofornaio

That GMC is interesting. Was that an ambulance?

There?
It was a food truck, In its previous life I dont know.

[MARKDTN]

Originally Posted by RichardJ

If you have a 10SI on there, I would stick with that. There are guys on this forum that love the CS130, but I an not a fan. They don't like heat. I've replaced the one on my '87 Vette several times, I believe because of high under hood temperatures. They have an external fan and an internal fan, yet heat is still a problem....

I will second that. I would not use a CS130 for a paperweight. Keep the 10SI/12SI. They should be fine.

If you want to upgrade, go to a CS144. Same wiring as a CS130 but much more robust and reliable. There is a pigtail available to convert from SI to CS
Delco 8078/GM 12102921 if you have a volt gauge or
Delco 8077/GM 12083462 if you have a light.

[Unofornaio]

Bad news...New BOTTOM cylinders are incorrect. I took the bleeder screws out of the new bottoms before installing because I figured I don't need them. WELL it was only after flushing the lines then moving on to hook up the crossover line from top to bottom that I realized um...it doesn't fit the hole is whatever size for the bleeder screws NOT the brake line fitting.

I can't even remember where I ordered them from. So back to square one. Unless I can use the guts of the new cylinders to rebuild the old ones then I'd be golden.

The pic shows the old top and bottom. Bottom is the one without the bleeder screw. The numbers cast into the part are:

Driver side rear bottom: 545714 and above that best I can tell it's 362.
Passenger side rear bottom: 545714 and above that 346 it too is a very bad impression.
I'm researching those numbers after I finish this. I just thought I'd take a chance to see if anyone recognizes those numbers.

[Unofornaio]

My brake parts issue aside for the moment. Yesterday I was watching a video of a guy changing brake shoes on a semi and he pointed out the wheel seal was leaking. The evidence was grease on the axle inside the drum and out side.

I realized this looked the same as what I had cleaned off of the passenger side. Grease like substance around the axle inside of the hub and the same looking substance on the outside of the hub around the weep holes. I cleaned all this off and at the time I attributed it to the leaking wheel cylinder and this was caused by the brake dust and brake fluid. Now Im really not sure which one it is.

I was so darn focused on the cylinders I dont even remember if this substance was on the brake mechanical components (springs,adjuster screws, ect) actually now that I write it I realize it was NOT. I remember squirting some oil on the adjuster threads to loosen them up to get the cylinders out. So there you have it.

Now if is been this hard to find the wheel cylinders I pray to God the axle parts are easier to find.

I hitting the hay.

[Unofornaio]

New summer menu item. Maybe this will revive interest in this thread.

[clay68c10]

Mmmm pizza!

Hope you have better luck with the parts situation, your plan is cool. Hope to see it moving along.

[Unofornaio]

Originally Posted by clay68c10

Mmmm pizza!

Hope you have better luck with the parts situation, your plan is cool. Hope to see it moving along.

Thank you. Me too 😭

[72 tigger]

Hopefully you can get the wheel cylinders figured out. Pizza looks good!