Project 1966 K20 adventure rig

[72cs20]

I did look into the possibility of using the Eaton with the newer style suspension. The spring pad width on the Eaton is 40 inches. The closest newer set up I could find would be for a 73-87 single wheel K30 which has a spring pad width of 40.5 inches. Off Road Design(ORD) sells these narrower hangers as well. So it would be a quarter inch difference on either side and could possibly work without moving the spring pads on the Eaton. But in the end, for my intended use as well as cost, the 14 bolt swap with newer style suspension made sense. The spring pad width for the 73-87 K20 14 bolt is 42.5 inches, which is what I'm using. The ORD frame hangers put the springs at the correct width for the K20 14 bolt

Also, when I was disassembling the stock rear suspension I found the rear hangers and shackles were trashed and unusable. The spring and shackle pins were frozen and would not come out. And there was a good amount of material worn away from the hanger and shackle from years of heavy loads and minimal maintenance. Funny thing though, the front spring pins came out easy and looking new. Bushings, pins and shackles are available but finding a good rear hangers could be a hassle.

[jdl71]

Good info as always thank you. I was looking at how to change just the rear springs without changing the hangers and everything else, since like most all other parts for this truck no one carries rear leafs. Do you think the newer springs will fit in the old hangers assuming they are still usable?

[72cs20]

Originally Posted by jdl71

Good info as always thank you. I was looking at how to change just the rear springs without changing the hangers and everything else, since like most all other parts for this truck no one carries rear leafs. Do you think the newer springs will fit in the old hangers assuming they are still usable?

You're welcome.

No, the 73+ springs and shackles won't fit the 66 frame hangers. Even though the 66 and 73+ both use a 2 1/2 inch wide spring, the size difference of the hanger and shackle is substantial between the two.

The link below shows a listing for 60-66 replacement springs with bushings included. LMC has the shackles, pins, u-bolts and other things needed if you want to rebuild to stock.

https://www.generalspringkc.com/product_p/22-327.htm

After all these years your hangers will probably show some wear. But if all you want is a good reliable hauler then I would rebuild the rest and leave the hangers alone. For the way I'm going to use my K20, changing to the later style rear suspension seems like a good choice.

[jdl71]

Thank you again. Appreciate all your help.

[72cs20]

With the holidays over and my garage's electrical improvements finished, I figured it is about time to resurrect my thread.

So for starters I've got the rear fuel tank mock up pretty much finished -




Also started further dis-assembly in preparation for lifting the cab off the frame. I initially did not want to go as far as lifting the cab, but the frame on this truck really needs a good cleaning and paint job.

I first removed the core support top covers and found remnants of the original paint. It looks like the truck came with the Fawn color -

[Captainfab]

Is the year application for that K5 Blazer fuel tank '87-'91?

[72cs20]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Is the year application for that K5 Blazer fuel tank '87-'91?

Yes it is.

[jdl71]

Originally Posted by 72cs20

Alright guys, thanks for following along with this one. I've been making some progress in my effort to get this truck safely road worthy.

I got the new knuckle bearing set for the drivers side installed and everything went in no problem. Knuckle re-assembled -
Attachment 1814949

Brake drum and hub all re-assembled -
Attachment 1814936

Now here is a pic of what I will be installing into this truck in the near future -
Attachment 1814945

This is a Dana 44 and 14 bolt set from about 1976. My gearing and differential options will be greatly expanded with these axles. Parts cost should be way lower too.

I also started my power steering conversion. The steering box is mounted to the frame with Capt. Fab's adapter plate. The provided 2wd frame template works well with the 4wd frame to get the steering box located in the right spot.
Attachment 1814939

Drag link -

Attachment 1814938

Interestingly I will be using the Ididit tilt column from my recently sold 62 C20(link in sig)for this truck.. The nice man I sold the 62 to is going with an Ididit column for an automatic trans and has offered the manual trans column back to me for use in this 66 K20. The 62 now resides in Phoenix, Az. so keep an eye out for it you guys in Phoenix.

What drag link are you using?

[72cs20]

jd,

I put that draglink together using part numbers provided by 61k10 in his build thread. I wrote them down but I'll need to go through my notes.

[jdl71]

Originally Posted by 72cs20

jd,

I put that draglink together using part numbers provided by 61k10 in his build thread. I wrote them down but I'll need to go through my notes.

I read his post and got the part #s. Thanks

[TJ's Chevy]

Subbed

[72cs20]

Here's a quick update on the adventure rig.

Working from the rear to the front, all the mock up and test fitting is done for the gas tank, new parking brake cables and the axle. The 14 bolt got all new brakes and wheel bearings and was verified to have 4.10 ring & pinion.

Then I took everything apart to clean and paint the frame to about halfway under the cab. Then put it all back together again. Here are some pics -

Before shot


Priming and painting


Back together


With gas tank

[72cs20]

Continued the dis-assembly working towards the front. Got the transfer-case and cross-member out, the other two drive shafts, old wiring and old fuel system plumbing.

Got more frame area ready for painting and then removed the front sheet metal. Then the winch and bumper. The pto winch won't be going back in. A Warn 16.5 will take over. That old winch and bumper must weigh a good 250 lbs.

The engine, trans, front axle and suspension come out next week. Then finish the frame, rebuild the front suspension and get the open knuckle 44 installed.




Heavy old pto winch


Winch bumper. I'm thinking of re-using this bumper for the for the new winch.


For the transmission and transfer case I'm going to go with a sm465/205 combination with a cable twin stick shifter for the t-case

I'm also likely to replace the 327 with a vortec or tbi 350. Depends on what I can find for good price.

That's it for now. Be back soon.

[Captainfab]

I don't know what your budget is for an engine but Jegs has a smokin deal on brand new L31 350 long blocks with free shipping.

https://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/JEGS-Per...570.1553913248

[350TacoZilla]

Good work so far on this thing. I would be tempted to rebuild and update the 327, one way to do it for decent cost would be buy a junkyard vortec with high miles for cheap and swap heads,fuel injection etc over onto freshened up 327 shortblock. I have nothing against a 350 but there is nothing wrong with a good running 327 either lol.

[72cs20]

Good suggestions, thanks. I've given lots of thought to the L31 or keeping the 327. But a tbi 350 with all the front accessories can be had relatively cheaply. Then again, keeping the 327 would be much less overall effort. A compression test came out well, so it seems to be healthy. There is still time to make a decision.

The goal through Sunday is to get the engine/trans out and finish stripping out the cab interior. And more wire wheeling, wire brushing, cleaning and painting. Not the most fun part of a project vehicle.

[350TacoZilla]

Yeah i just meant get a dirt cheap high mile 350 and swap the newer desirable parts and such onto the 327. I once wanted to update to the serpentine belt setup and couldn't find all the brackets\pulleys etc for less than $100 by themselves, looking through CL for awhile I got the idea to look for whole engine and grabbed a running but smoking bad 305 for $50 with everything still attached. Pulled parts I wanted and tossed the longblock into car headed to scrap.

In your shoes I would probably leave the 327 alone myself but if EFI is a feature you really want then you can usually land a complete vortec for less than cost of aftermarket intake\injection alone. Or even an old TBI 305\350 if not going for the vortec heads and more complicated fuel injection. Either way I cant wait to see this thing coming together, love seeing what people end up with after following the builds.

[72cs20]

Time for a quick update on the adventure rig progress.

I've spent the last 6 or so weeks working on the front half of the frame, the newer front axle and the inside of the cab. I spent way too much time on the frame but it did come out pretty nice.


A little rusty metal primer.


Some semi-gloss black.


1977 Dana 44 all ready to go. Cleaned and painted with all new bearings, seals, brakes and Warn hubs. Also had to replace the passenger side axle u-joint.


While getting these things done, my suspension parts came in. New leaf springs, shackle kits, u-bolts and top plates. Truck is finally a roller again.


I'm presently working on the section of frame under the cab and assessing cab condition. Got some rust issues.

Thanks for following.

[jdl71]

Looks great! Thanks for the update

[raylube]

What front springs and SHACKLES are you using ?

[72cs20]

The springs and shackles are stock type replacements. I got the shackle kits from LMC. They only list full shackle kits for the 60-63's, but I bought them anyway to see if they would work. They fit fine but with two differences. The shackles are an inch longer than the ones that came off. And they come with nylock nuts.

[350TacoZilla]

Man that thing is going to be beautiful when its back together! Nice work on the frame and front axle man. You ended up with a kinda rare D44 (I think 76-77 only) that in weird way also has super easy to get parts (since it uses the same hubs\bearings\seals etc as the later 78-91 10 bolts), I always liked the looks of the old big hub D44 8 lug stuff but the internal hubs and such are supposed to be stronger not to mention that there are tons of aftermarket hubs available even at local auto parts stores in a pinch.

[72cs20]

Thanks for inputs everyone. Been gathering parts and thinking things through about how to proceed.

But since the last post I've gotten a couple of things done. Brake and fuel plumbing is finished and the acquisition of an engine.

Fuel and rear brake lines along the right side frame rail and few pics of the 350 I had built for me. Just a basic stock type truck engine with an rv cam and Edelbrock intake. It will have tbi fuel system by Affordable Fuel Injection.
http://https://67-72chevytrucks.com/...1&d=1568823113

I hope to have the engine in place this weekend. Be back soon.

[raylube]

Nice work.I am in the process of swapping my axles and springs like yours.What did you end up doing with your e brake cables? Did you buy prebent brake lines or did you plumb them yourself? What's your plans for rear shocks and shock mounting tabs on the 14 bolt? Did you have to install pinion shims?

[72cs20]

Thanks. I had Control Cables Inc make new parking brake cables for me. I sent my old cables along with the brake drum end from the 14 bolt and they built new ones based on the examples.

All of the brake plumbing was made by me except for the piece along the rear axle. I bought that part from In-Line Tube. The brake hoses are from Off Road Design.

The rear shock set up will be factory style and new mounts will need to be made for the 14 bolt.

There are 4 degree shims under the springs.