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#26 |
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Bowser
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Re: 1971 C10 Starter/Timing/Transmission Issue
Now remember when you go to the parts store and ask for a spacer base gasket they’re gonna look at you like you got 6 eyes, 4 noses,a dozen ears and just got off the ship from Pluto!
There is no such thing! You need a quadrajet base gasket. |
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#27 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Dallas Texas
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#28 |
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Re: 1971 C10 Starter/Timing/Transmission Issue
Like I said. You can use it but it’s not ideal.
You’ve got a thin spreadbore gasket for the base and a squarebore one for the carb so use them and hang the insulating one on the wall. |
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#29 |
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#30 |
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Re: 1971 C10 Starter/Timing/Transmission Issue
And why would you do that?
Spreadbore bottom, squarebore top! Done deal! |
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#31 | |
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#32 |
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Location: Puyallup, WA
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Re: 1971 C10 Starter/Timing/Transmission Issue
Good work getting it back together. You can hang onto that 9266 if you decide to swap in an Edelbrock intake manifold. Let us know how it goes
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72 C10 lwb fleetside -stock 350/350 combo |
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#33 | |
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Location: Dallas Texas
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Quote:
1. The only line on the harmonic balancer has to be the timing mark. I found tdc using a straw with the valve cover off just to be 100%. Popped my finger in cyl 1 spark hole, found compression stroke and it matched with the line. Straw method marched with line as well. 2. She fires right up connect the timing light and it was way to retarded not even on the scale. Turned the distributor to get the timing mark where it needed to be at 0 and idles at like 1400. 3. Turn off motor, turn back on same thing. I know starternis good because it’s firing up easily every turn now, 3 seconds. 4. Now back to idle, I turned the fast idle screw out a lot and the tpms dropped to a humming 1000 at 0 tdc. For me to set 12 advance, the rpm climbing up there. So I grab some starter fluid and shoot the front of carb and bam 20-40 rpm increase. The bolts holding the space down were suspect upon reassembly so I assume they aren’t tight enough or the gasket is too thin. I will be taking carb off once more and replacing those bolts until I can fix this vacuum leak. Posted via Mobile Device |
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#34 |
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Re: 1971 C10 Starter/Timing/Transmission Issue
Also I wanted to add that with the timing somewhat close, and when I place truck in reverse, the load seems easier and it takes 2-3 additional seconds for reverse to stall which is awesome as I would like to fix that issue at the same time.
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#35 |
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Re: 1971 C10 Starter/Timing/Transmission Issue
OK another update:
1. Purchased new space and adapter to get better bolts and a better seal. 2. Let truck run for about 20 minutes, shut it down and it fire right up. 3. Initial timing was set to 8 deg advance with vac unplugged. 4. Plugged in vac advance and it was showing 13 deg advanced at 1200 rpm in park. Threw it in reverse and it stalled. 5. Bumped the timing so that with the vac advance lined plugged in, it is at 0 degrees, idles at 880-912, threw it in reverse and it stayed in reverse for about 5 seconds before stalling. I’m starting to think my tdc line is off? I’m going to try bumping back the timing a bit more just to see. Any thoughts? Posted via Mobile Device |
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#36 |
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Re: 1971 C10 Starter/Timing/Transmission Issue
Sounds like you’re making good progress. It also sounds to me like you need to adjust the carb’s transition slots for idle. Check out this thread, it should help you out getting the slots adjusted. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=765215&page=2
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72 C10 lwb fleetside -stock 350/350 combo |
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#37 |
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Location: Vacaville, CA
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Re: 1971 C10 Starter/Timing/Transmission Issue
Can you tell us where you have all the vacuum lines plugged in? Before, your Timed Vacuum port looked to be routed to the vacuum advance and the Manifold Vacuum port was plugged. In the latest picture, they both have hoses running to them, but we can’t see where they are running to. It also appears you removed the vacuum plug in the rear of the manifold. Did you reinstall that and where are those lines routed to if reinstalled?
Also, do you have power brakes?
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1971 Custom/10 - 350/3 speed, Orange/White roof Last edited by rechinca; 10-23-2018 at 03:26 PM. Reason: Details |
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#38 | |
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Location: Dallas Texas
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Quote:
3 vacuum lines connected. Pcv, Timing advance, TH350C modulator. No power brakes. Rear of carb plugged, intake manifold vacuum plugged. With timing advance connected and engine timing set to 0 degrees, I can stay in reverse for almost 15 seconds with engine wanting to die but it idles up and down during this time. Idle rpm is about 700-800. When I turned idle screw to increase idle, let’s say 900 rpms, engine stalls in reverse. So with the base timing retarded and the vacuum advance advancing it to 0 degrees, 700-800 rpm I can move backwards lol. Any other settings than this, stalls in reverse. I tested the modulator port on vacuum gauge and it read about 13 hg Posted via Mobile Device |
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#39 |
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Re: 1971 C10 Starter/Timing/Transmission Issue
Also I have not adjusted idle mixture screws at all.
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#40 |
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Location: Puyallup, WA
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Re: 1971 C10 Starter/Timing/Transmission Issue
You're getting there man. Good job so far.
If you think TDC is still off, get a piston stop and do it that way to be sure. A piston stop is the only way to be 100% anyway. So your vacuum readings are low because of your timing and idle mixture screws (IMS). As you advance your timing, the efficiency of your engine increases and it creates more vacuum and rpms. Your IMS effects vacuum as well if not adjusted correctly. You adjust them for highest vacuum using your vac gauge connected to the carb's manifold vac port; the port to the right side. The Edelbrock manual that came with the carb outlines it really well. With the timing right and IMS adjusted, a stock engine pulls around 20" of vacuum +/-. Almost there with the timing. Do you know how many degrees of advance your distributor has? Also, are the weights and centerplate lubed well? Do you know how many degrees of advance your vac advance has? From your previous posts it sounds like vac advance is 5 degrees, but you need to check it. Since we don't know yet, keep the timing at 8 degrees for the moment.
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72 C10 lwb fleetside -stock 350/350 combo |
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#41 | |
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#42 |
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Re: 1971 C10 Starter/Timing/Transmission Issue
TDC doesn't change with the distributor. It stays the same, you just have to verify where it's at with the piston stop. Do you know how to check it with the piston stop?
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72 C10 lwb fleetside -stock 350/350 combo |
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#43 |
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Re: 1971 C10 Starter/Timing/Transmission Issue
A little info on tdc.
https://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/...op_dead_center If advancing your timing increases your idle too much, then find the high idle screw. It might be set to high. |
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#44 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Dallas Texas
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Quote:
Yea so piston stop you just rotate until it stops, place a mark on the balancer then rotate the crank the opposite direction when it stops make a mark and tdc is right in the middle of it all. Posted via Mobile Device |
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#45 |
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Re: 1971 C10 Starter/Timing/Transmission Issue
That’s right!
Make sure to. Back off the rocker nuts on #1 when you do it. |
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#46 |
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Dallas Texas
Posts: 113
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Re: 1971 C10 Starter/Timing/Transmission Issue
Ok so I I went ahead and plugged the piston stop in, wrapped end with tape so it doesn’t scratch cylinder head, used a reference point on crankcase cover, turned clockwise marked, turned counter clockwise marked. Split the distance between the two and the initial factory line/groove on the harmonic balancer is perfectly at 0 degrees on the scale. So the piston stop provided some insurance in regards to that factory mark.
So let me get this correct. 1. Disconnect vacuum advance again and set initial timing or base timing to 8-12. If I plug in vacuum advance this rpms will be at least 1400. 2. So with base timing set to 8-12 and vacuum advance plugged into carb,I need to reset the carb idle mixture screws and idle screw per manual? In order to accomplish a perfect mix with a perfect idle? 3. Once everything is set, test vacuum on ports? Most of my full vacuum ports are plugged. Let me know if my method is off. So far battery starting issue is gone. Side notes*** 3 degrees retarded with advance plugged in and idle set to 700 gives me reverse for 20 seconds or so. Posted via Mobile Device |
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#47 |
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Location: Dallas Texas
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Almost there with the timing. Do you know how many degrees of advance your distributor has? Also, are the weights and centerplate lubed well? Do you know how many degrees of advance your vac advance has? From your previous posts it sounds like vac advance is 5 degrees, but you need to check it. Since we don't know yet, keep the timing at 8 degrees for the moment.[/QUOTE]
Sorry man I don’t have that info :/ the center plate and weights were lubbed. I’ll test at idle with base at 0 degrees and the connect advance and post the difference. Posted via Mobile Device |
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#48 | |
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Re: 1971 C10 Starter/Timing/Transmission Issue
Quote:
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72 C10 lwb fleetside -stock 350/350 combo |
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#49 | |
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Re: 1971 C10 Starter/Timing/Transmission Issue
Quote:
Since we don't know your distributor numbers yet, set your initial timing to 10 degrees with vac advance unplugged. Don't adjust anything else. Plug your vac advance back in to manifold vac and check what your timing is now. Take that number and subtract your 10 degrees of initial...whatever that number is, that's the amount of degrees your vacuum advance provides. What do you get? To determine how many degrees of mechanical advance your distributor has, take the distributor cap off, remove the two springs for the weights (cover them with a rag so they don't shoot off on you), then replace the cap. Removing the springs ensures the weights will fully extend at lower rpms (so you don't have to rev the engine crazy high) and your mechanical advance will be all in. Hold the engine at 1500 to 2000 rpm and check your timing. This number is your total timing (initial timing plus mechanical advance). Again, take that number and subtract your 10 degrees of initial...whatever that number is, that's the amount of degrees your mechanical advance provides. What do you get? Then put the springs back in.
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#50 | |
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