Bad news from the tire shop...

[BigBlockBurris]

Where are you located?
I have quite a few one piece, old style dually wheels.
I'm just outside of Charlotte


BBB

[projectking]

Your left front appears to be a ford wheel since the hub opening is a larger diameter. Does it say accuride on it?

[kazoocruiser]

It occurred to to to add that split rim ring wheels were never really supposed to face the outside with the ring exposed. The ring was supposed to be captured by the hardware. All that noise would have alerted the driver like a dinner bell that there had been a tire demolition. The noise would have alerted him through the frame.

[HIGHWAY BY THE SEA]

Originally Posted by projectking

Your left front appears to be a ford wheel since the hub opening is a larger diameter. Does it say accuride on it?

I thought Ford rims did not fit GMs...?

[HIGHWAY BY THE SEA]

Originally Posted by BigBlockBurris

Where are you located?
I have quite a few one piece, old style dually wheels.
I'm just outside of Charlotte


BBB

I am in the process of buying a set from a board member now, and it looks like a go, but if this falls through for any reason, I will contact you. Thanks!

[special-K]

Originally Posted by HIGHWAY BY THE SEA

I thought Ford rims did not fit GMs...?

Fords have a larger center hole/same lug pattern. So ford rims fit GM but GM doesn't fit Ford. You want hub centric with those smaller wheel studs with later wheels,

[special-K]

Originally Posted by kazoocruiser

It occurred to to to add that split rim ring wheels were never really supposed to face the outside with the ring exposed. The ring was supposed to be captured by the hardware. All that noise would have alerted the driver like a dinner bell that there had been a tire demolition. The noise would have alerted him through the frame.

What post are you referring to? I'm confused by what you are saying. How can the split ring face inward on the front?

[HIGHWAY BY THE SEA]

Originally Posted by special-K

Fords have a larger center hole/same lug pattern. So ford rims fit GM but GM doesn't fit Ford. You want hub centric with those smaller wheel studs with later wheels,

This whole thing with these wheels just keeps getting worse and worse. I have five rusty junky split-ring wheels, one type unknown one-piece (top picture in first post), and a damn FORD one-piece one!! This truck was cheesed completely out!!! Thanks to all who have assisted in responses to this post. It has been a true eye-opener.

[special-K]

It's the same with all pre-71 C3500s and C/30s. Could have had 6 crusty rims. The previous owner had started the change-over process one wheel at a time out of necessity. You are doing it right by getting all matched wheels at once.

[Madkidd007]

Was doing some cruising and seen the thread again. Just wanted to let you know I have all but one of the nuts sitting with the wheels I planned on sending with you since I can’t use them.

[68Gold/white]

Originally Posted by HIGHWAY BY THE SEA

This whole thing with these wheels just keeps getting worse and worse. I have five rusty junky split-ring wheels, one type unknown one-piece (top picture in first post), and a damn FORD one-piece one!! This truck was cheesed completely out!!! Thanks to all who have assisted in responses to this post. It has been a true eye-opener.

No it's not that bad!!!

The picture of your one non split ring wheel (ford wheel), that has a slightly larger center hole, ALSO has a hole drilled in it, between the lug holes. This is a tell tale of a ford wheel. Your picture of the one spare 16" wheel does NOT have this hole. Something to look for when you look at used wheels...

IF, IF, my memory is working at the moment, the ford hubs have a pin attached to the surface where the wheel mounts. THe wheel can only be mounted one way, with that pin through the hole on the wheel (Special K.??)

Does not surprise me, another better idea by ford...

Taking your spare wheel will help out, a lot!!! Take a tape measure with you, just to be safe...

LOL, the split ring is only on one side of ANY split rim (the outer side, if mounted on front), was never on other side....

[v30crewcab]

the reason for the pin on the ford setup, is so you can easily line up the inner and outer rims so you can reach the inner rim to air it up. on chevy you have to be careful to line up the holes in the wheels so you can reach the back one. clock them wrong and you can't check the air in the inside tire!

[HIGHWAY BY THE SEA]

Went to Georgia to buy the one-piece rims from Madkidd007. We had a good time, and I LOVE the diesel engine in his K10! It is quite unbelievable! I also documented this in my New Project build thread.

[burnin oil]

For anyone reading this later on. Take the brake drum with you and make sure it clears the rim. My dad had a 62 heavy 1 ton that came with 18" rims. It took forever to find a set of dual rims that would clear those big drums. The problem was the curvature of the rim. Not the mounting face or diameter.

By the way, nothing wrong with Ford rims. I have 6 of them on my Dodge 5500. Picked them up for $40 and a 6 pack of Guinness. It wasnt worth it to me to break down the original tires and now I have a spare set of tires on the rims.

[HIGHWAY BY THE SEA]

More tire shop drama. I called them a few days ago and asked for the tire manager. He was so busy that practically kicked me off the phone and kept telling me to "bring in the truck" before I could even tell him what I wanted.
I was trying to ask how much it would cost to remove the old bad wheels and tires and have them mount the ones I bought from Madkidd007 (easy enough to tell over the phone since this is like a tire rotation). One of those rear inner wheels did not seem to want to budge, and my equipment for such applications is limited. So I figured it would take someone better equipped to handle this job.
He said that he did not know how much it would cost, and I was promptly transferred to the brake department (which I did not want to be), then while waiting on hold, the wheels started turning. (The ones in my head, not on the truck). The tire manager had kept lauding their "free brake inspection", so I hung up, loaded the recently-bought one-piece rims/tires on the truck and drove it to the tire shop.
When I arrived there, I promptly signed the truck up for the FBI (free brake inspection) knowing that they would have to remove all the wheels off the truck and remount them for free. So I told them to mount the newly-bought ones instead of the split-ring ones.
This FBI turned into a huge odyssey. As I guessed, one of the inner rear wheels was FROZEN onto the truck, and they had to "sledgehammer" it to break it loose. No matter because ALL of those junky split-rims are going to the dump.
And of course EVERYTHING was wrong with these old brakes, as always is whenever I buy a used vehicle. The tire shop has been trying to find parts for the brake overhaul for the past two days. When I called them this morning for an update, I was asked by the brake manager to not call them, they would instead call me.
When I made this call I was trying to tell them that only Centric makes the rear brake drums for this type of truck (thanks Madkidd007 for this information), and I had found out where to order some.
I drove my motorcycle to their shop this afternoon (this is technically NOT a phone call) and saw that they had finally installed the recently-bought rims on there, but I did not engage the brake manager.
As I was typing this, they called me to advise that they had found all of the brake parts, save one, but that they had a good lead on it. This is going to be an expensive brake overhaul, but I do not compromise on brakes, since this is the most dangerous thing to fail on a vehicle. Sheee!
More updates to follow...

[JJ55chevy]

I'm glad I was able to find a fresh thread on rims for a c30. I have a 1970 C30 with split rims on it and I want to change over to one piece rims but I ran into a stumbling block with them. I have 1/2" studs on my truck with flat lock nuts. I bought some newer rims for it and they have a hole for a larger stud (9/16"-5/8", I don't remember right offhand) my question is. do I buy tapered lug nuts for the front wheels? what do I do about the slop in the rear wheels with the larger stud holes? thanks for your help!!

[Madkidd007]

Originally Posted by JJ55chevy

I'm glad I was able to find a fresh thread on rims for a c30. I have a 1970 C30 with split rims on it and I want to change over to one piece rims but I ran into a stumbling block with them. I have 1/2" studs on my truck with flat lock nuts. I bought some newer rims for it and they have a hole for a larger stud (9/16"-5/8", I don't remember right offhand) my question is. do I buy tapered lug nuts for the front wheels? what do I do about the slop in the rear wheels with the larger stud holes? thanks for your help!!

If I may I’ll put some thoughts on this. But first pierce I think I’m finally whoopin the flu’s ass and managed to go to work today.
Now on the lug situation which will apply in a couple of situations.
If they are correct gm wheels with the 4.56” hub bore then they will center themselves so you do not want to center them with lugs. Meaning you want to run a flat face nut in the same manner as the stock setup being they don’t carry the load and just keep the wheel from comin off, or use the later model rings with a standard acorn type lug, I’ll add a picture of the rings.
Now if you go with aftermarket aluminum wheels meant for an acorn style lug you can use a 1/2” bulge seat nut and it’ll work perfect. The point is if it’s hub centric then the lugs hold the wheel on and don’t support the load, non hub centric you better have a proper seat on the lugs to the wheel.

[Madkidd007]

Let me stress never run a tapered lug on a flat wheel without the clamping ring, it’ll never seat properly and back off.

[JJ55chevy]

Originally Posted by Madkidd007

Let me stress never run a tapered lug on a flat wheel without the clamping ring, it’ll never seat properly and back off.

this is where I keep ending up dead in the water and never find the wheels or whatever it is I need to put tires on my truck. I bought this truck because I sold my other trucks in favor of having something big enough to tow my trailer with. Ok, that part of the history is out of the way. This truck runs and drives great but I do not want to go anywhere with it with these split rims and 20 yr old tires on it. I bought 4 rims for it but they have a 5/8" bolt hole, the center holes are correct. The holes are not tapered, just a straight hole through them. My studs are only 1/2" diameter. I am not sure what the centering ring is but will they work with the smaller studs and are my studs going to be long enough to use them?...now my questions are looking like I am rambling on too much here...let me break it down a little:

for the front, how do I get one piece rims to fit my 4.5" bore x 1/2" studs?

what can I do on the back with the 4.5" bore x 1/2" studs?

would I have been better off buying a newer truck and hating it?

[Madkidd007]

Well I don’t wanna jack the thread anymore. Start a new one or Pm me and I’ll see what I can do to help. I’ve run late model and aftermarket aluminum’s on my 62 and 70 so I know either route

[HIGHWAY BY THE SEA]

OUCH! I went to the brake/tire shop today, and they handed me an itemized bill for the complete full restoration of my 67 3500 brakes. It may as well have said, "Your Firstborn".
But I never compromise on brakes, and these brakes come with their tried-and-true warranty, so that is that.
At least I will likely never have to have any serious brake work again in my lifetime with this truck (I hope).
I also talked them into covering the shipping for all the parts (boy did they ever have to scrounge the planet for those), and I told them that my E Brake had better work like it just rolled off the assembly line!
Too bad that this turned out to be so much, because I now must delay the muffler-shop visit.

[kazoocruiser]

Originally Posted by HIGHWAY BY THE SEA

OUCH! I went to the brake/tire shop today, and they handed me an itemized bill for the complete full restoration of my 67 3500 brakes. It may as well have said, "Your Firstborn".
But I never compromise on brakes, and these brakes come with their tried-and-true warranty, so that is that.

Kill me with suspense. Seems to me whatever you invested in the work is a depreciating expense around Tax Season. How much did the labor set you back, because they did a lot.

Someone might benefit from the information down the road.

My kibbitz . . .

[HIGHWAY BY THE SEA]

Originally Posted by kazoocruiser

Kill me with suspense. Seems to me whatever you invested in the work is a depreciating expense around Tax Season. How much did the labor set you back, because they did a lot.

Someone might benefit from the information down the road.

My kibbitz . . .

$900 labor. The rest was parts.

[kazoocruiser]

Originally Posted by HIGHWAY BY THE SEA

$900 labor. The rest was parts.

I looked at your build thread to get some kind of idea of what you are working with. It looks like you are no-where near a tip-over point yet.

[HIGHWAY BY THE SEA]

Originally Posted by kazoocruiser

I looked at your build thread to get some kind of idea of what you are working with. It looks like you are no-where near a tip-over point yet.

I am taking this journey one step at a time and am not on any time schedule. My "tip-over point" will come someday, and until then I will continue to restore this rare truck at whatever pace that I am able.
My son and I are preparing to assemble the newer front clip to be installed, possibly within the next month and we have been preparing the fenders and hood. We even have a more solid radiator core support that has the lights installed, solid doors, and a front grill. Then later comes the cab body work.
When I bought this truck, absolutely nothing on it worked, and by that I mean not even a single light bulb. People that I know (including the tow truck driver who brought it to my home) were telling me about how I "had a lot of work to do" or how I "had a long way to go". Now, several months later it runs and moves under its own power, has a great gauge pod, has better wheels, is registered and insured, and will soon have brand new brakes/tires. So I am light years ahead of where I was when I bought it, regardless of how much time I have left to complete this restoration.
I am the kind of person who takes his journeys with a single step at a time, and I enjoy relishing every single step. I do not look into the future with a idea of how far I still have to go, but instead I consider all of the fun that I am going to have while taking that journey.