Drip rail sealer alternatives?

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by B. W.

Thanks Gary, that's what I needed to know.

Brian, sorry for jackin' your thread, I've been wondering how I was going to do this & these guys had some great info.

I thought it was cool that we formed nearly the identical question at almost the same time! I’ve never considered a thread to “belong” to anyone, but maybe I should? The way I understand a thread hi-jacking is when one bloviates about something other than the topic of the thread. Either way I appreciate any and all input.... thanks to all who had something to say!

[Grumpy old man]

I don't know how it could work any better . many years ago we would spend hours masking and smoothing seam sealer . I stood back after 5 minutes and thought , Geez all that time to clean out the old stuff and prime and only 5 minutes to seal it all back up ...


alternatives? Here you go ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAg88OIxrN0

https://www.amazon.com/Flex-Seal-Liq...49021327&psc=1

https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tnp...SABEgLvBPD_BwE

https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tnp...SABEgKXV_D_BwE

[rockyrivermark]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

Thanks guys.... the only area of concern that I still have is the vertical portion and the transition to the horizontal part. If the stuff is viscous enough to level out quickly, it would make sense that it would run down the cab and flow out of the drip rail channel. I did read that Rockyrivermark said he brushed it upwards a few times and it worked out fine. I believe him... I just can’t stop thinking it would stick to the brush as well and get messy. What am I missing Mark?

As I recall (2 years ago) it worked out better than exspected. I initially tried regular Seam sealer and that was a disaster. I was anticipating the self leveling sealer to run down the door but brushing upward as it set up worked well.
Hair dryer may also help it tack up.
Put about a 1/4" bead to start. Worst thing you can do is put too much on. Then things would get messy I'm sure.

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by rockyrivermark

As I recall (2 years ago) it worked out better than exspected. I initially tried regular Seam sealer and that was a disaster. I was anticipating the self leveling sealer to run down the door but brushing upward as it set up worked well.
Hair dryer may also help it tack up.
Put about a 1/4" bead to start. Worst thing you can do is put too much on. Then things would get messy I'm sure.

Thanks for the clarification Mark. I’m feelin pretty confident now, too bad it’s currently out of stock at Eastwood. I’ll try to remember to post up pictures of my results...

[rockyrivermark]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

Thanks for the clarification Mark. I’m feelin pretty confident now, too bad it’s currently out of stock at Eastwood. I’ll try to remember to post up pictures of my results...

I got mine from Amazon
3m.

[cornerstone]

3M 8307 and Cox applicator gun from amazon is on the way.... $85....Oh well, I'll scrimp somewhere else.

[rechinca]

Grumpy would that bald world on the normal electric oscillating tools for the house work? And where did you get that blade? I need to do this to mine this spring and seems like the way to go.

[fogowe]

Great Thread, Following!

[Grumpy old man]

Originally Posted by rechinca

Grumpy would that bald world on the normal electric oscillating tools for the house work? And where did you get that blade? I need to do this to mine this spring and seems like the way to go.

That's my old windshield removal tool , It made short work of cleaning out the old sealer from the drip rail , It's worn and has No sharp edges .

I found these blades on ebay that should work ,I would try them on some scrap metal before using them on your truck . You don't want to start poking holes in the sheet metal . I definetly wouldn't use any type of toothed blade .

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-x-Oscilla...4383.l4275.c10

[Grumpy old man]

Here are some other blades and thread

https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/equ...e-p-33519.aspx


http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=766936

[rechinca]

Grumpy thanks for the info on the tools! Sure makes it worth having the right tool. I can see that really moving through the old sealer with ease.

[franken]

Funny responses
I think I'd use a flexible seam sealer designed for the application. BTW, Eastwood doesn't make anything. They rebrand and sell other people's stuff, just like goodmark, OPI, etc.

[cornerstone]

Welp.... good news and bad. I got it done, maybe. I believe I squirted out to much to make sure it was properly blended. Thats the first picture. I realized halfway through the job that the tube was less than half full, so I tried to make adjustments in how much I laid down. I ended up running out just as I was going down the last vertical portion behind the passenger door. I figured there may be a little bit more in the tubes and noticed the tool was adjustable, so I quickly gave the plunger rod nuts a few turns. It helped and I did get one last blob out. Kind of a fiasco. In the last picture it shows a place where I didn’t get my zig zag pattern down very good, and the sealer didn’t make contact with both sides. I appreciate everyone’s input.
Brian

[Richard2112]

This is a thread I'll be referencing soon.

[72c20customcamper]

I used the 3m self leveling seam sealer on the 68 worked nicely .

BUT on my 72 I needed to do something to seal the 72 drip rail temporarily so I scraped out the old stuff as best I could and used flex seal white paint. Taped off the roof and applied 3 coats still on there without a crack or leak for almost 3 years. When and if I redo the truck I'll use the 3m

I'll get a pick of the 72 drip rail tomorrow