Can I add factory AC?? Help!! - Page 2 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

ddsmith · 01-01-2004, 10:12 PM

Shawn,
Since your starting from zero. I would strongly recommend using the factory evap, TXV and POA valve readjusted to the proper setting for R-134A. I did the aftermarket route and I regret the choice. The evap on the factory truck is bigger than the aftermarket units. It can transfer more BTU's meaning cooler cab temps. It also keeps the factory defrost and heater which is a plus. I currently have no lower heater vent outlet because of the aftermarket setup. As for compressor and condenser I would probably use aftermarket units. The benefit of the POA setup is that the compressor continues running and the POA modulates to maintain the pressure and temp at the evap just above freezing when in the A/C mode. This provides the coldest air possible with a large air flow.

krue · 06-17-2005, 09:05 PM

I don't know how this didn't make it to FAQ. See if we can remedy that.

Blue85 · 06-17-2005, 09:12 PM

Isn't there a flap in the cowl as well?

71RestoRod · 06-17-2005, 09:44 PM

I agree with Gee_Emm... cutting the vents is much easier than replacing the dash. The side vents are actually a circle, projected on the dash. I used a can that was roughly the same diameter as the dash vent and held it up to the dash and then ran a pencil around it to get the shape. I measured the distance up from the bottom of the vent housing to get the top and bottom of the circle and free-formed it from there. I used a body saw and it worked great.. no problem turning the circle. Just remember you can always cut or die-grind more metal out. Get it close and then fit the vent in place and it's real easy from there. Once I had the one side done, I used the "garage-hands" approach to transfer it to the other side.

01-01-2004, 10:12 PM	#26
ddsmith Glowing since 1978 Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Lusby,MD,USA Posts: 532	Shawn, Since your starting from zero. I would strongly recommend using the factory evap, TXV and POA valve readjusted to the proper setting for R-134A. I did the aftermarket route and I regret the choice. The evap on the factory truck is bigger than the aftermarket units. It can transfer more BTU's meaning cooler cab temps. It also keeps the factory defrost and heater which is a plus. I currently have no lower heater vent outlet because of the aftermarket setup. As for compressor and condenser I would probably use aftermarket units. The benefit of the POA setup is that the compressor continues running and the POA modulates to maintain the pressure and temp at the evap just above freezing when in the A/C mode. This provides the coldest air possible with a large air flow. __________________ 66 Chevy C30 Stakebody Dump, PS,PB, 327cu in 71 Corvette Coupe 454 4 speed 69 Chevy C20 Custom Camper

06-17-2005, 09:05 PM	#27
krue Designated A-hole! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: South Mississippi Posts: 36,450	I don't know how this didn't make it to FAQ. See if we can remedy that. __________________ "If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck"

06-17-2005, 09:12 PM	#28
Blue85 Oilfield Trash Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Raymore, Sk, Canada, Earth Posts: 3,171	Isn't there a flap in the cowl as well? __________________ 14 Dodge 3500 Mega Cab 08 Dodge 3500 Mega Cab 87 Chev 3+3 4x4 80 GMC K10 High Sierra bone stock 70 Chevelle 350SS long term project 68 GMC 3ton Grain Truck/Garbage wagon 50 Pontiac 2 Door Coupe Project "I've got a shotgun rifle and a 4 wheel drive and a country boy can survive" Hank Jr.

06-17-2005, 09:44 PM	#29
71RestoRod Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Evergreen, CO Posts: 494	I agree with Gee_Emm... cutting the vents is much easier than replacing the dash. The side vents are actually a circle, projected on the dash. I used a can that was roughly the same diameter as the dash vent and held it up to the dash and then ran a pencil around it to get the shape. I measured the distance up from the bottom of the vent housing to get the top and bottom of the circle and free-formed it from there. I used a body saw and it worked great.. no problem turning the circle. Just remember you can always cut or die-grind more metal out. Get it close and then fit the vent in place and it's real easy from there. Once I had the one side done, I used the "garage-hands" approach to transfer it to the other side. Attached Images __________________ 71 Blazer / GMPP ZZ383 / MPFI / 700R4 / 4-Wheel Disk / Ground-up frame off almost completed resto-mod



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