Alternator HOT

[Ol Blue K20]

I'm glad you got it sorted out......

[Stocker]

^^ X2, glad you're back in business!

Basic multimeters are pretty easy to use, especially with an auto-range function so you don't have to think about which range to select. Last year I got a Fluke 101 which is about as basic as they get and I don't have any regrets.

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This HOT issue got in the way of my other issues.
I added in a shut off switch between everything and the battery also when I finally got an alternator that works. Now I'm going to learn about tanks, and stainless lines and what budget my wife has in mind for me!
I appreciate ANY help!

[RichardJ]

Your truck originally had a 10DN alternator. The 10 DN requires a separate, externally mounted voltage Regulator.
It is a very common conversion on these trucks to replace the 10DN with a 10SI or 12SI alternator. The SI alternators use a voltage regulator that is placed inside the body of the alternator itself. The conversion requires the removal of the external voltage regulator and a few wiring changes.

You have a 10SI plus an external voltage regulator. In short, you have a friggin mess.

Another thing that is common is that in 90% of the conversions are completely unnecessary and of those, most are performed improperly and result in complications and failure.

[Steeveedee]

^ Holey smokes! Looks like almost everybody completely missed this, including me! Yep, he has a hot mess.

[Stocker]

I missed it for sure, had to go back to the pics on page 1 to see how you knew what he had. Good eye, Richard!

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Well that would explain the failure of my first alternator.
What sucks is my external voltage regulator was going out, $50
I chose to replace my alternator just becuase it was ugly and the bearings made a noise
Other than that it worked. New alternator $35.
So I'm paying extra for extra problems.
Anyways. Now I just need to ask for the correct part number.
I kinda wondered why the wires did not route the same way.
I like the idea of external voltage regulator due to the fact I bought the good one with lifetime warranty.
Just wow. Now i am seeing what you all say about buying parts at our local part stores.
Regardless of their age or experience. "The computer says" is killing me.
Back to the alternator drawing board. 10DN. GOTCHA!!
MAN THANKS.

[RichardJ]

Oy Vey ! It's not as simple as throwing more money at the problem.

First you have to figure out what changes have been made to the wiring harness. You said you bought a new alternator and " Same alternator, plugged right up". The two-pin plug for the 10ND and the two-pin plug for the 10SI are different and they are wired differently.,

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Originally Posted by RichardJ

Oy Vey ! It's not as simple as throwing more money at the problem.

First you have to figure out what changes have been made to the wiring harness. You said you bought a new alternator and " Same alternator, plugged right up". The two-pin plug for the 10ND and the two-pin plug for the 10SI are different and they are wired differently.,

Ah, don't say it. My wiring harness is a rat's nest so to speak.
There are wires going no where. My reverse lights don't work. Horn is not hooked up, steering column is all wrong. I actually thought I was getting somewhere with my truck.
So you all think I should try the new wire harness?
Maybe get a good electrical system on first? I really do not know much about this part.
Guess I get to learn?

[Steeveedee]

If this alternator still works, I believe the simplest and cheapest way forward is to wire it correctly to the truck. It is a common swap, and there are threads around about how to wire it up. Not all that difficult. Is there a sticky somewhere for this?

Here's one! http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=119379

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I pulled up the specs on the alternator I currently have on the truck.
It says external voltage regulator. See attached