1950 GMC on s10 named Hook

[joedoh]

wow super great work!

[Rusti]

Hello all

I had the last weeks some free time and worked on my AD project. I decided to work out some unique door handles. I found some connecting rods with the right size and then it was clear how they will look like. Some old screws and some welding and ready for use.


The second big think was the bed. I found an old bed from the late 70es or mid 80es. Perfect and much better then nothing. The first step was to build a frame to connect the frame with the bed. The second one was to cut a piece of 30cm from the back so that the bed looks harmonic with the short bed frame from the s10. Well I call it a shorty short. The third step will be to sand all the paint off, a least 3 or 4 different layers, and then just wait until it is covered with rust.





original length

and shorted

for the first ride I use some standard rear lights which are used in Europe for trucks and trailers. I will have to look for something more original but for now it is ok.

In the place where I found the bed there two rear fenders from a late 70es C10. Not the perfect look I want to have but for the first rides and possibility to bring the truck to the technical inspection to get a registration it is ok.






Well still a lot of work to be done but it is getting together more and more and it makes a lot of fun to see how it grows.
So long
A

[straight6chevyguy]

Wow! looks like it's coming along very nicely!

[olcarguy]

Borowed this from Industral Metal Supply Company.
https://www.industrialmetalsupply.co...-to-rust-metal

Hope this helps.....

To give your steel that rusty finish, you’ll need table salt, white vinegar, and degreaser, along with measuring cups/spoons and a spray bottle. We also recommend you buy a new bottle of hydrogen peroxide, instead of using an old one in your medicine cabinet. For safety purposes, you should be wearing goggles and chemical resistant gloves at all times. Remember, you’re going to be combining harmful chemicals, so be careful!

Degrease the Steel: After stripping your steel of any coating or paint, the metal will be ready for degreasing. Read the degreaser bottle’s instructions as you apply it to the metal, and take care not to touch it with your bare hands. You want the degreaser to work its magic, but you don’t want to add more oil and dirt in the process.

Pickle the Steel: Yes, the next step is just like pickling cucumbers, only here you’re pickling steel. This helps to create a uniform coat of rust, instead of certain areas being rustier than others. Pour some white vinegar into the spray bottle and then spray every inch of the metal object. Let it dry in the sun, and then repeat several more times. Now, your steel will be ready for the main event.

Make It Rusty: So you’ve prepped the metal object for rusting, but how does the oxidation process actually happen? First, you’ll need to create a rusting solution by combining 16oz hydrogen peroxide, 2oz white vinegar, and ½ tablespoon of salt. If possible, mix this solution in the spray bottle with some of the leftover white vinegar. Shake it up so that everything mixes well, and then start spraying down your object. If the rusting doesn’t start happening immediately, you may need to put your object in direct sunlight for a while. Heat helps the process.

After you spray the metal, let it dry, and then repeat for about 7 cycles, your steel should look like it’s aged years. Make sure you don’t touch the rust until it has fully dried out, because it might rub off. The longer it stays in the sun, the better.

[Rusti]

Thanks for that advice about rusting. That helps a lot.

[Rusti]

Hello all

First ride! It was a lot of fun and of course some problems came up. Most of them are quite simple to solve but one makes me a bit nervous.
The speedometer does not show the correct speed compared with my gps measured speed. From the start it is ok but then it shows more than you drive and when you slow down the speedometer needle stays with out any change some time and then it gets down.
I am using the drive train from a 1995 astro van but my rear axel is from an 1997-2000 s10 blazer. I suppose that the axel ration does not fit to the digital ration adapter. Can that be the problem?
I have the sticker form the astro van out of the glove box. Can you please tell me which is the number for the rear axel and how do I now the ration

But for my rear axel I do not have the sticker. Is it possible to determine the ration with out disassembling the diff cover?
Thanks for your help.
So long
A.

[jed971959]

Hi hGU1 : AXLE REAR, 2.41 RATIO
GU2 : AXLE REAR, 2.73 RATIO
GU4 : AXLE REAR, 3.08 RATIO
GU5 : AXLE REAR, 3.23 RATIO
GU6 : AXLE REAR, 3.42 RATIO
GV1 : AXLE REAR, 2.73 RATIO
GV2 : AXLE REAR, 5.83 RATIO
GV3 : AXLE REAR, 3.08 RATIO
GV4 : AXLE REAR, 3.36 RATIO
GV5 : AXLE REAR, 3.55 RATIO
GV7 : AXLE REAR, 4.11 RATIO
GV8 : AXLE REAR, 2.72 RATIO
GW2 : AXLE REAR, 2.56 RATIO
GW3 : AXLE REAR, 2.56 RATIO
GW4 : AXLE REAR, 3.31 RATIO
GW5 : AXLE REAR, 2.73 RATIO
GW6 : AXLE REAR, 3.27 RATIO
GW8 : AXLE REAR, 4.10 RATIO
GW9 : AXLE REAR, 2.93 RATIO (DUP WITH GU3)
G80 : AXLE POSITRACTION, LIMITED SLIP ope this will help you

[8man]

Rusti, try this...
https://itstillruns.com/calculate-re...o-7588196.html

There are ways to get the right ratio from looking at the axle.

Good luck.

[Rusti]

I am a little bit confused. I did some google research and found many different posts, some say turn the wheel one and some say twice?!
We jacked the truck on one side, put the transmission in neutral. Put a mark on the wheel on 12 o clock and a mark on the drive shaft. Then I turned the wheel two full rotations. The drive shaft turns 3 and 3quoters.
So I suppose the ration should be 3.75:1. Am I right with this?
From the sticker I think the drive train ration should be 2.73:1.
If I am right this could be the problem. What do you think?
Thanks for your efforts
So long Arnd

[joedoh]

sounds like you did it right, your sticker looks to say GU6 which is 3:42, so pretty close. havent seen many s10 with 2:73 rear gears, 3:06 is the lowest I have seen.

[dsraven]

problem could be if one axle is held still the other axle turns twice as fast. without pulling the cover off it's hard to be exact. will it matter?

[dsraven]

try this forum which ex[plains where to look for numbers on the right hand axle tube. right side when sitting in the vehicle.

https://www.s10forum.com/threads/rea...-codes.430702/

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by Rusti

I am a little bit confused. I did some google research and found many different posts, some say turn the wheel one and some say twice?!

Depends if you have a posi or an open rear end.

Posi: Jack BOTH wheels off the ground. Turn one wheel ONE complete turn. Count the turns on the drive shaft.

Non-posi: Jack ONE wheel off the ground. Turn the wheel TWO complete turns. Count the turns on the drive shaft.

[joedoh]

astros/s10s (and most GM trucks) dont come with a "posi", they come with a low speed locker that relies on one wheel to be spinning a lot faster than the other to fling out a pawl and grab the carrier, locking both wheels together. its all in at a low speed, like 4-5mph and all out by about 25 mph, the pawl would break if it engages at higher speeds. unless he was spinning the one rear wheel furiously, he did it right.

[Rusti]

Hallo all

It is a long time gone since my last post on that build. But I worked a lot on it and it turned out grate. Of course there are still a lot of things to be done or reworked to make them better but it drives, has brakes, has a registration and makes a lot of fun!

I was able to buy some rear fenders.


The running boards were cut to make them shorter somewhere in the past. I will look for some new ones with the right length


The next step was the steering wheel. I tried one from a mid 70 Jeep and it looks grate.



The wipers were a big challenge. Three days of work and they work. S 10 wiper motor under the dash.







The tailgate was missing when I bought the bed so I build up my own one. Hope to get an original tailgate some day.



And some pictures in the sun







I was able to solve the problem with the wrong showing tachometer. The indicated speed was much higher then the one you really were driving. I just calibrate the digital ratio adapter new and after four times, it worked perfect.
Well guys it was a lot of fun and I learned a lot during this build for the last 15 month. Of course there are still some things to be done and some which could be done better then I did them but for the first build it is quite ok.
So up to the next project.
Thanks to all of you for your help and the interest to this build.
So long Arnd

[oldman3]

Glad your enjoying your ride, that's what their built for....Jim

[straight6chevyguy]

The truck looks grate. I really like it!

[OutlawDrifter]

More progress is always good, glad you're driving and enjoying it!

[joedoh]

gorgeous finish man!