1971 Suburban 4x4 build "The Big Ugly"

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by Yerboogieman

These projects may have been fueled by margaritas. It's what you do lol.


Nobody asked, but I'm too proud of it. My 99 SC2 White Hot High Comp. 1 of 250. Full restoration.

I saw you mention it. I don't know much about Saturns. It looks nice. Is it fast?

[Yerboogieman]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

I saw you mention it. I don't know much about Saturns. It looks nice. Is it fast?

It made 220hp on the dyno and smacks Volkswagen GTIs. It does pretty well for itself. Especially for being N/A.

[Yerboogieman]

I finally got around to pulling my Suburban out of storage. Fresh battery, dumping a can of fuel in it and a little down the carb and it fired right up. It ran out of fuel as we were pulling it out of the trailer and into the unit. It was leftover leaded race gas anyway.



I pulled it out back in January or February and put a few gallons in it. That wasn't enough. I ran out of fuel pulling out of storage. It is still over 100 degrees in Phoenix right now. Glad my dad followed me, he grabbed the gas can and picked up 5 gallons for me.



Took it to work this morning. This was the longest drive it's taken in about 7 years. 21 miles. Performed perfect, shifted through the gears, plunked down into overdrive at exactly 50mph, but maaaaan I need to look into the brakes. I think the booster is shot or the hoses swell when I brake. I'm thinking of picking up a hydroboost assembly from a late model and bigger discs for the front, discs for the rear and braided brake hoses. I've always hated the one inch of pedal travel in these trucks and that giant ugly booster. Looking at my 2008 Duramax (Remember at the beginning when I said I wouldn't buy a new truck? *rolls eyes*) the systems haven't changed much. The booster mounting looks similar, the power steering pump is practically the same. It should go in with relative ease. I wouldn't be against any input in that department.

Before anything else, I'm gonna be fixing a small fuel leak from the fuel filler, a timing cover leak, double check the TV cable adjustment, and installing my seats from a 2015 BMW X5.

They're from a 3-row optioned X5 so the backseat has real brackets, tilt forward, and fold flat. They're heated, cooled, and fully electric. What comes with fully electric is the CANbus issue. When they receive power they will work for about 10 minutes until power is removed and reapplied. I'd prefer to adjust the seats as needed without cycling the key. I'll figure that out, probably with a Raspberry Pi. I was brainstorming and thinking about using a Raspberry Pi to monitor vitals like temps, pressures, A/C, fans, lights, etc. I'm just not sure yet. Maybe a Holley EFI will do CAN signals.

[LockDoc]

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Glad to see it back on the road. Yeah, sitting is really hard on the brake systems.

Here are some threads on hydroboost installs. It will cover all years so you will have to sort that out....

https://www.google.com/search?domain...D%3A1%3B&hl=en

I have one I am thinking about installing in my latest project.

LockDoc
.

[Yerboogieman]

Got it up on the lift and started tinkering and seeing what I need. Right caliper is seized, booster is indeed bad, the rod is misadjusted, the brake and fuel lines are downright scary, and the steering gear needs to be resealed.

Kicking myself for not getting a steering gear from RedHead steering gear when I worked literally next door



I pulled the fuel tank and found that the float in the brand new sender is sunk. I've been having issues with the fuel gauge since I did the wiring, double checked the resistance of the gauge (thanks to this thread https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=640615) and confirmed my suspicion.



A little discouraged, I stuffed the tank back up there, forced the caliper piston in and put it back together for now. Sprayed it down with simple green and washed underneath so it will be clean and dry next time I work on it. Spent so much time on the mods and overengineering, I forgot to do anything about the basics .

Fun fact, Neither me, my dad, or my uncle changed the front brakes on this. Those front pads have plenty of life left on them. They must have over 100k miles on them for how much we drove this in the past 30-some years. I daily drove this truck 60+ miles a day in college 10 years ago. The driver's side rotor still has the factory machined groove in it. I think I'll go ahead and check that proportioning valve while I'm at it.



I also found some pictures I failed to post.

Roller Rockers.



The new seats.

[Yerboogieman]

After pricing out DIY kits, parts, and everything; I went ahead and ordered a CPP hydroboost kit with lines from Summit, a couple calipers, brake hoses, and a reman 3-turn steering gear. Gotta find some new brake lines, I really hate bending and flaring them myself. It seems every company caters to 2WD far too much with all that. I saw some Wilwood calipers but I held back for now. Good thing I'm single, my wife/GF would be pissed.

[Yerboogieman]

It's Here!!! ...Still waiting on the calipers.

[Yerboogieman]

Started on it today and snapped a brake line removing a hose. Didn't even take photos. Just packed tossed the wheel back on, packed up my toys and went home. I was so disappointed. I didn't want to do the lines juuuuust yet.

[HO455]

Bending brake lines isn't too tough. Here are some things I've learned over the years. It just takes some patience and pre-planning of your moves.

Get a 25 foot roll of 3/16" nickel/copper brake tubing. If you're unfamiliar with Nicopp line the interweb has lots of information. You don't want nickel/steel tubing. Although some trucks used 3/16 for the front lines and then 1/4" for the run to the rear brake hose and then 3/16 on the axle so you may need only 15' of 3/16" and then 15' of 1/4".

Get a quality tubing bender. I like Imperial benders. They will do 180 degree bends.

Get a 8 foot long piece of #6 solid uninsulated copper wire. #6 is slightly smaller than 3/16" tubing. Then you can make practice pieces with the copper wire before trying it on the tubing.

I like to start on smaller easy to access lines like the ones on the rear axle to start. Then once I've got my MOJO going then I move on to the longer, harder to access lines.

Some of the frustration with bending new lines come when you're replacing ones on an assembled vehicle. GM designed the lines to be installed on unassembled vehicles. So sometimes you have no choice but to put an extra coupling in the line.

I also like to take pictures of all the fittings before I start so I can make a shopping list of those if I'm going with all new fittings. GM has a habit of using different sizes. I believe they did it to keep the folks on the assembly line from assembling things incorrectly.

I hope this helps. Looking forward to more updates on your Burban!

[LT7A]

Lots of good work here. Quite a story and a journey. Thanks for mentioning the transmission place in Kent. Never knew they were there, and a 700R4 is probably in my future.

[CDA 455]

Any updates?