LS turbo advice needed...

[lyrikz]

Also, alternator. If you are running a 4 prong alternator, get this.

https://sloppymechanics-com.myshopif...-combo-harness

Plugs right into your alt, and right into your term x harness. DONE. No more alt. bull**** to worry about.

[OKGMC4]

Does the Term X use the connector for the coil harnesses or does it have each individual coil connection? Thinking of relocating the coils off the valve covers and wondering how hard that might be to do as far as the wiring goes.

[lyrikz]

Originally Posted by OKGMC4

Does the Term X use the connector for the coil harnesses or does it have each individual coil connection? Thinking of relocating the coils off the valve covers and wondering how hard that might be to do as far as the wiring goes.

You will need to buy the coil harness or source a harness off the old engine.
You can absolutely move the coils, you just will have to lengthen roughly 8 or 10 wires per side to wherever you are going.

Im doing this now. Debating. I have the holley valve covers that cover the coils but i keep getting the wrong ones. First ones wouldnt plug in, 2nd ones are to tall for the cover to fit. Debated just moving them all together.

[dag19]

This is a fabulous thread, thank you guys for all the knowledge! I am just about to get started on my LQ4 turbo build.

Have any of you looked into or know anything about the kit CX Racing offers? https://www.cxracing.com/turbo-kit/t...10-6772-IC-RAD

Also, lyrikz, what did you end up doing with your coil relocation? I would like to move mine as well. Hook it up with some pics if you got em!

[lyrikz]

Originally Posted by dag19

This is a fabulous thread, thank you guys for all the knowledge! I am just about to get started on my LQ4 turbo build.

Have any of you looked into or know anything about the kit CX Racing offers? https://www.cxracing.com/turbo-kit/t...10-6772-IC-RAD

Also, lyrikz, what did you end up doing with your coil relocation? I would like to move mine as well. Hook it up with some pics if you got em!

I got the holley valve covers that hide the coils.
I think i have a pic, one second. Theres covers that go over them.

[dag19]

Originally Posted by lyrikz

Also, alternator. If you are running a 4 prong alternator, get this.

https://sloppymechanics-com.myshopif...-combo-harness

Plugs right into your alt, and right into your term x harness. DONE. No more alt. bull**** to worry about.

So I was checking out the harness you suggested to purchase and he was talking about the Flex Fuel sensor harness for E85 as well. Is this a required sensor? Or is it only required if you are running E85?

[gmc684x4]

Great thread i have someone keep talking about sloppy mech have to check them out

[71cadc10]

Originally Posted by dag19

So I was checking out the harness you suggested to purchase and he was talking about the Flex Fuel sensor harness for E85 as well. Is this a required sensor? Or is it only required if you are running E85?

only required if you plan to run E85 or a mix of it.
for a turbo app, if E85 is available in your area...I personally would run it. Plan your pump and injectors accordingly if you plan to use it

[dag19]

I would like to run E85 since I hear you get more out of it that way. The trick will be finding somewhere that sells it around here in western NE. Where at in the fuel system should I mount the sensor?

For injectors I intend to go with Deutschwerks EV6 95lb/hr injectors. I was looking at a Boyd's Welding tank with an Aeromotive Stealth 340 fuel pump. Would that system suffice?

[americanmusc1e]

Originally Posted by lyrikz

You have to take some of the stuff you see online with a grain of salt. Sure, you saw a guy that ran a stock engine with 12 psi for years with no issues. Well, thers 234 other guys that ran 12psi and it blew up on their second pull.

Take some time, and fix the weak points and you can run 10psi all day..

Last weekend i went through my old harness to get the coil pack wiring. Say we can agree that a SUPER nice LS harness is 500 bucks. You also need a wideband o2 when doing this also. Thats probably 200 bucks. If you spend another 300 dollars you will get your wide band O2, and a computer, and a harness that isnt 15 years old. You will spend DAYS, if not longer screwing with the factory harness.. And in the end, if you run into an issue, you have to second guess whats screwed up on your old harness.

Buy the X, with trans control for your 4l80, then come back on here and thank me. lol. Seriously. Dont waste your time shipping out your computer, and all that so you can save 300 to 500 bucks. Best money you will ever spend on that.

12-14 PSI is doable on a factory engine if your AFRs stay right. Most of the guys who blow up a stock engine either had a boost spike or a fuelling issue and just didn't even realize it. A lot has also been learned with timing. Sloppy Mechanics now recommends pulling timing back a few degrees at torque peak and then adding it back at high RPM. This helps keep cylinder pressures down and keeps pistons/HG happier.

I'm on stock HG (not even MLS) and TTY bolts and I run 12-14PSI on the street, but I usually pull boost back to 10psi mid summer when it's 100 degrees in Central TX. I also have a wideband readout going 24/7.

Seriously buy the Terminator X though. I'm on a megasquirt MS2 and I've been eyeing the X for a while now.

[71cadc10]

Originally Posted by dag19

I would like to run E85 since I hear you get more out of it that way. The trick will be finding somewhere that sells it around here in western NE. Where at in the fuel system should I mount the sensor?

For injectors I intend to go with Deutschwerks EV6 95lb/hr injectors. I was looking at a Boyd's Welding tank with an Aeromotive Stealth 340 fuel pump. Would that system suffice?

sorry didn't see this till now.
If using a return style system the sensor you'd want on the return side...it's 3/8 line size.
If you are running dead head setup you can run the supply fuel thru the sensor if needed...but if you are planning larger supply lines -8AN then the sensor would be a restriction.

I'd skip anything Deutschwerks and look for a real Siemens or Bosch injector, 80#/hr
that 340 pump sounds good...I've also used Walbro 450 with good success on E85

[dag19]

No worries, I appreciate the input at any time!
I do intend to run a return style system. I haven't decided on supply/return line sizes. I assume what size comes out of the tank will be my limiting factor and just stay with that size throughout the system.

Good to know on the injectors. Is there a big price difference? Or its a moot point due to the quality of Siemens or Bosch?

[71cadc10]

Siemens 80# are in the $400 range for set.
less than DW and higher quality (thank GM or Ford for footing the R&D)

[dag19]

Excellent! That's really not terrible... especially with the good quality. Thanks for the tip!

[OKGMC4]

Stupid question...or really a verification of what I think I've figured out...to use Siemens Deka injectors you'd need the mid length 48mm style for an early truck intake? Looks like the long version is if you are using a car style intake. And wouldn't it be better to go ahead and get the EV1 connectors? The Multecs don't seem very common. The Terminator offers several connector options. And where can you reliably get the genuine Siemens injectors to insure you don't get the fake knock offs? Still seems like the 60lbs would get me down the road fine, 80's would be a sure thing but there are all sorts of rumors out there about idle quality with 80's. Plus the Term X software only lists the 60 in the drop down menu. Any experience with the Deka 80 and the Terminator system? Thanks for all the great advice!

[71cadc10]

I'm using the 80# Deka 'long style' on a magnuson supercharged 6.0L
I felt the car idles just great, and low speed drives great.
Sorry I do not have experience with TermX system...to know what it works with.


The knock offs area real problem...I have set of 60# knock offs now in a car...and they have to be swapped. Can't get the AFR where we need it, they don't respond like they should. Idle sucks...no atomization. These were sold by "TRE" The Racers Edge. Total junk.


this place sells real Siemens stuff:
http://www.siemensdeka.com/product-c...uel-injectors/

depending on the year and type intake you are using, if you have an injector out of it just measure the length from o-ring to o-ring to determine if you need short, mid, long (37/48/60mm). otherwise mockup the rails and try to get a measurement.
For connector style, this would be driven by your harness connector choice. if your harness has the USCAR connectors on it, get the EV6 connection type. USCAR type connectors are the ones with gray or green plastic CPA that you seat after they are mated. Earlier EV1 type use the metal wire clips in them, and the latching features are on the sides of the interface. There's likely more choices in the later USCAR type EV6 in my opinion

[Ghost's68]

Originally Posted by dag19

I would like to run E85 since I hear you get more out of it that way. The trick will be finding somewhere that sells it around here in western NE. Where at in the fuel system should I mount the sensor?

For injectors I intend to go with Deutschwerks EV6 95lb/hr injectors. I was looking at a Boyd's Welding tank with an Aeromotive Stealth 340 fuel pump. Would that system suffice?

For my setup I went with the Aeromotive dual phantom 340’s in tank set up. Depending on your fuel and power level you might run out of pump.

Check out SnakeEater injectors. I just ordered their set of LS3 style 1500’s. Owner is a standup guy and stands behind his product. They are super affordable and are flow matched to a 2% variance. Hell Holley just updated their software to include SEP’s flow data onto their system.

[71cadc10]

I'd be vary wary of any of these aftermarket injectors, after what I am seeing with the TRE stuff. Yes your car will likely run if you get the flow rate close in the table, but not as well as it can. also if one sticks open, you quite possibly lose an engine (hydro lock).

I looked at the latest DW 95lb. and they do seem to be using a genuine Bosch injector EV14 series. so that product from DW should be decent

[OKGMC4]

another question...at the time it seemed like a good idea to run the wastegate to it's own tiny muffler instead of looping it back into the main exhaust but I'm wondering if the injection system will or won't like this? Will it screw up the AFR readings or will it be ok?

[OKGMC4]

Anyone have experience with Ballenger Motorsports? Looking at getting the Deka 80 injectors from them and they appear to be reputable.

https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pr...t342tjcqr63j00

[OKGMC4]

Anyone want to share their real world experience with crankcase venting / pvc system with their ls turbo? I’ve searched and there sure are a ton of ways to do this. I’ve seen huge lines from each valve cover to a breather tank and the pvc deleted, I’ve seen some try to use the stock pvc system with a check valve and a catch can, or some use the Mighty Mouse can with pvc built in. But I’ve also heard of people blowing smoke or pushing out dipsticks, etc. Just want to know what you guys have run successfully on the street. Thanks…Mike

[tinydb84]

Originally Posted by OKGMC4

another question...at the time it seemed like a good idea to run the wastegate to it's own tiny muffler instead of looping it back into the main exhaust but I'm wondering if the injection system will or won't like this? Will it screw up the AFR readings or will it be ok?

No problem looping back in since its all the same exhaust. I wouldnt run a muffler off it unless you are supporting it somehow.

Originally Posted by OKGMC4

Anyone want to share their real world experience with crankcase venting / pvc system with their ls turbo? I’ve searched and there sure are a ton of ways to do this. I’ve seen huge lines from each valve cover to a breather tank and the pvc deleted, I’ve seen some try to use the stock pvc system with a check valve and a catch can, or some use the Mighty Mouse can with pvc built in. But I’ve also heard of people blowing smoke or pushing out dipsticks, etc. Just want to know what you guys have run successfully on the street. Thanks…Mike

I have the driver side PCV to a sealed catch can (cheap one off amazon) to the intake. The passenger side has a vent with a filter on it.

Prior to venting the otherside it would hiss on shut down so I knew I needed to vent it.

No problems with this set up. Cost me $20-30 bucks.

[OKGMC4]

Originally Posted by tinydb84

No problem looping back in since its all the same exhaust. I wouldnt run a muffler off it unless you are supporting it somehow.



I have the driver side PCV to a sealed catch can (cheap one off amazon) to the intake. The passenger side has a vent with a filter on it.

Prior to venting the otherside it would hiss on shut down so I knew I needed to vent it.

No problems with this set up. Cost me $20-30 bucks.

I had that cheap can between my pvc valve and intake on my NA 6.0. Couldn’t believe how much oil that engine pushed into the intake! Before I pulled it out I could spray soapy water on the valley cover and see bubbles so I knew it still needed more venting. I think the 5.3 under boost will be worse. At least this engine never sucked oil through the pvc valve.

[biketopia]

here's a really good thread going on over on ls1tech about catch cans, has a lot of good info and pictures.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...catch-can.html

[OKGMC4]

A question for anyone familiar with the terminator x…the instructions say the fuel pressure sensor is optional. Is there any real advantage to running one?