'69K10, Build/Help

[KyFarm]

that was a major step towards completion.

Motor, trans and T/C are in truck, not bolted down yet but in-place. Motor sitting on mounts, blocks under T/C crossmember.

Had to remove some previously mounted items from the motor, also had to remove then re-install the motor crossmember, but managed to install the motor-trans with T/C all in one piece, by myself.

I am super glad to get that finished. Now crossing things off the list is actually moving towards being finished.

Initially the only thing that seems to have interference is the inlet on the fuel pump (I clocked it 180). The motor mount perch seems to be in the way, I'm hoping when I make the last adjustment to get the motor level that the inlet will be between the upper and lower crossmember.

With the number of 350s in these trucks seems it should work out, hoping so, I'd rather not have to deal with an electric pump.

[KyFarm]

Actual progress. Motor and trans-T/C are bolted down and level. T/C is sitting where the shifter comes up through the floor in the proper spot.

Hei is installed and clocked with #1 at TDC. Carb is installed, alternator installed, Pwr steering pump installed but dang, i gotta do something with that return line.

Issues to deal with:
Fuel pump, I clocked it 180 so inlet was on back but it is unusable because the motor mount perch is in the way. Currently its off but I realized that maybe you could clock it another 20 degrees or so and see if I can get fitting on it.
Does anyone know if the in/out have to be parallel to the motor?

Spark plug routing. I want them to go down and back under the headers then up the back of the motor but then it seems they will be resting against the headers, which I don't want. Sure seems to get wires routed correctly you need valve covers with the proper bolt pattern, matched to the proper looms, matched to the proper length wire. I can't find anything sold that way though. I still think eventually I'm gonna look for some perimeter bolt valve covers, easier to find wire looms and hopefully solve my breather hole problem I have with these.

[KyFarm]

more slight progress,

went to install the new dash set from Classic instruments and as I was finding the wires that I needed I found issues like in the picture. The wiring in this old truck is junk. Too many different POs doing their own thing splicing and cutting. Looks like I'm just gonna rip it all out and start fresh with a new wiring kit.

This project does keep growing but I am learning much along the way.

Got the fuel pump issues fixed, learned that I can clock it however I need, have braided fuel lines run from tank hook-up to pump and pump to carb, so progress...

[jaros44sr]

I had the same problem, wiring was a mess, no sense burning my truck to the ground. Went with M&H, great customer service, asked him a ton of questions, always peasant, it was plug and play, with some upgrades I wanted. Started at the engine bay and went backwards to the fuse block

[KyFarm]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

I had the same problem, wiring was a mess, no sense burning my truck to the ground. Went with M&H, great customer service, asked him a ton of questions, always peasant, it was plug and play, with some upgrades I wanted. Started at the engine bay and went backwards to the fuse block

thanks for the info,

did you upgrade your alternator to internally regulated? if so, which one

[KyFarm]

Been busy on the farm with spring rolling in but have done a few minor items on the truck.

Decided on a re-wire, so needed a new alternator with internal regulation, so got that and a mid-mount kit, I like this much better than the high mount.

Finished the fuel lines, not tested yet but it is installed.

I'm basically ready to start on the re-wire but with the amount of wire that runs across and into the core support I figured it was time to paint and re-install that, so its in. Sure was nice working in the engine bay without it.

Hopefully I'll get this re-wire done in the not to distant future and then it will be closer to time to test fire the beast.

[KyFarm]

the build is alive. Took most of the summer off to work on this farm of mine, but got back to it this winter. I am now almost finished finally with the re-wire, it has gone slowly but steadily.

When the re-wire is finished I'll be able to: (in the cab)

Install the new Classic Instruments Dash
Install the new Ididit steering column
and install the old brake pedal


Still to do in the engine bay:

Route plug wires
Install the radiator (easy) run new custom rad hoses (I've never done before)
Wire fans (I bought a fan controller, so I hope it work well)
Install and wire transmission controller (hopefully staightforward)
Install linkage between new column and transmission (this is something I've worried about since the beginning)
Exhaust work

After that and some odds and ends I might be ready to test fire. No telling what happens after that.

Current pics, still a mess

[72 tigger]

Glad you’re back on it. I like “ No telling what happens after that.”- funny!

[KyFarm]

Had a hard time making it out to my farm this week due to the ice storm but managed to get a few things done.

I have all the wires necessary to install the Classic Instruments dash pulled and marked so the instrument cluster can go in anytime without hassle. This will be towards the end of the build though because its easier to work without it in there. Same goes for the steering column.

I have all the wires pulled and marked for the GPS sender, Fan controller and Transmission controller.

Built and installed a crude mounting plate for the fan and trans controller and have installed the transmission harness and connected it to the transmission.

this picture sure looks like things are a mess but its shows great progress, things just need to be tied-up.

[4x41971SWB]

What did you have to do to connect the 4L70E to your Np205?

[KyFarm]

Originally Posted by 4x41971SWB

What did you have to do to connect the 4L70E to your Np205?

There is a kit from advance adapters just for that. It’s not cheap but necessary. It includes a shorter tail shaft for the trans so I paid a guy to rebuild my 205, change the tail shaft on the trans and then go ahead and mate them together.

[4x41971SWB]

Thanks for the reply.
Do you have the forward drive shaft installed?
If so do you have any clearance issues with the 4L70E oil pan?
Are you stock height?
Thank you for your time

[KyFarm]

Originally Posted by 4x41971SWB

Thanks for the reply.
Do you have the forward drive shaft installed?
If so do you have any clearance issues with the 4L70E oil pan?
Are you stock height?
Thank you for your time

I do not have the front drive shaft installed but I did test fit and believed it would clear. Might check it again tomorrow to be sure. I need to change the seal in the front diff and have been putting that off as I've never done it before.

Front is stock height, there is a 1" block in the rear, which I've been told isn't stock. I'd like to do something to raise the front to level the truck, but that will have to be next.

BTW: the advance adapters item # I used is 50-5310

[4x41971SWB]

I appreciate the information.
I just ordered a crate SP383 last week for one of my blazers
and still trying to figure out what transmission to go with.
When you get your drive shaft up if you could post a picture I would appreciate it.
Thanks

[KyFarm]

Will do. I’ll put it on the list and maybe get to it this week.

[KyFarm]

Originally Posted by 4x41971SWB

I appreciate the information.
I just ordered a crate SP383 last week for one of my blazers
and still trying to figure out what transmission to go with.
When you get your drive shaft up if you could post a picture I would appreciate it.
Thanks

Went ahead and test fit the front shaft. It fits on level ground but I’m guessing it may hit on uneven ground.

Can that be tested by jacking up the axel on each side?

Does this show you what you needed to know?

Posted from my phone so pics may be twisted.

[4x41971SWB]

It looks like the pan itself is clear, but very close to the pan mounting flange from those pictures. Is that correct?
How big of a gap do have from drive shaft to the flange.
I would jack up only that side to see if you can see if that spring would flex enough to see.
Thank you very much this is very helpful to me.

[4x41971SWB]

I was looking at your pictures again and I can't tell do you have the constant velocity joint on the drive shaft?

[KyFarm]

You’re welcome. You might be sorry when I start asking you questions!!

More pics, hopefully tells you what you need.

I do have one question that you (or someone else) can maybe answer: there are some “bearing keeper straps” on those CV joints, do they have to be removed? Or. Can they stay?

[KyFarm]

This is with front right tire 5” off the ground. Didn’t seem to make any difference in the driveshaft.

[4x41971SWB]

Looks like you are missing CV joint (constant velocity) joint .

[4x41971SWB]

CV joint

[KyFarm]

Wow! That’s an amazingly clean set up you got going on there.

I put my shafts back together the same way they came apart. I’d have to say I’ve never seen one like yours. I’m not sure if it would fit under that trans pan or not.

Do you have the same on your rear drive shaft?

[4x41971SWB]

Thank you, those pictures are from my 72 blazer with a stock Th350.
I'm putting the crate engine and a over drive transmission in my other blazer.
I was wanting to use the 4l70E but not sure yet.
To answer your question no the rear drive shaft doesn't need it. It is used if the correct drive line angle if it cannot be achieved. To eliminate vibration.

[KyFarm]

Radiator, electric fans, and trans cooler installed.

Hopefully today I'll have the lines run to the trans cooler and the electric fans wired to the relays controller by the fan controller.

Getting much closer to the trial start-up day

Now I get to figure out how to create custom radiator hoses, any help would be appreciated!