Center link hitting crossmember???

[carbon69]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

As far as I know, the center links were only different based on the year model range not type of steering (power assist or manual). So yes, a 71 power vs. manual steering truck would have the same center link.

71-72's got disc brakes so the center link changed.
73's made further changes & the center link changed again (larger shanks and/or different taper).

Ok. I assumed so, just trying to check and recheck everything I've done to make sure I'm not missing something obvious.

[carbon69]

Just thought I would report back, things are looking better with the ccp pitman arm. It went on with ease. Looks identical to the Moog, but slid on like butter.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by carbon69

Just thought I would report back, things are looking better with the ccp pitman arm. It went on with ease. Looks identical to the Moog, but slid on like butter.

Be interesting to see if that cures the center link problem. I can't see how it would but you never know....

LockDoc

[carbon69]

Well the center link needed to come up on the driver's side for sure... And with the angle of the steering box, the further you drive the Pitman arm on, the further it also pulls the center link away from the crossmember. I'm betting it will be alright now. I guess the ccp box didn't like the Moog arm.

[carbon69]

Problem solved, (not with the Moog problem solver) but with the nearly identical fa694 ccp arm.

Hope this helps someone else down the road.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by carbon69

Problem solved, (not with the Moog problem solver) but with the nearly identical fa694 ccp arm.

Hope this helps someone else down the road.

Good deal! Thanks for following upon that. Many people don't and leave no posted solution....

LockDoc

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Good deal! Thanks for following upon that. Many people don't and leave no posted solution....

LockDoc

Two possibilities:

1) The splines on the steering box shaft are slightly different & the CPP provided arms are built to that spec.

2) There is a batch of Moog arms out there that aren't the correct spec.

I suppose either is plausible. I wonder how the new Moog Pitman arm fits on an original (off the shelf rebuilt box & NOT CPP's) steering box shaft? That would provide some insight.

[KQQL IT]

Another thread with a manual box. Same problem

[Rick Bollinger]

I rebuilt my front end last winter with Moog and cpp drop spindle and disc brake kit. First off when I bought the truck the power steering gearbox was leaking bad so I replaced it with a rebuilt oem from local parts store. The following winter I did the CPP kit with Moog pitman arm and drag link. My pitman arm went on exactly like the OP's. My center link was a tight fit but does not hit but after seeing this I think I will replace it with a new one. It must be the pitman arm is not machined right. Oh my truck is a 68.

[Rick Bollinger]

I just looked at the OP's moog unit it is the same one that I bought at Summit. I went to there web site and now they say that it does not fit our trucks. It may not do any good but I think I will try to give them a call.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Rick Bollinger

I rebuilt my front end last winter with Moog and cpp drop spindle and disc brake kit. First off when I bought the truck the power steering gearbox was leaking bad so I replaced it with a rebuilt oem from local parts store. The following winter I did the CPP kit with Moog pitman arm and drag link. My pitman arm went on exactly like the OP's. My center link was a tight fit but does not hit but after seeing this I think I will replace it with a new one. It must be the pitman arm is not machined right. Oh my truck is a 68.

Not necessarily. It could be the CPP parts work together because THEY are from the same source & share the same dimensions.

Moog is known for their quality vs other options. I've used their parts (pitman arms) on many of these trucks (6x-99's) & not had one arm that didn't fit a factory rebuilt steering box. But, as I indicated, a bad run is possible.

If someone that got one of these 'fit' issues between the CPP box & Moog pitman arm (where the arm is barely engaging the shaft shank threads) would/could go to a parts store (or test it on a factory used power steering box), I would be curious if there was still a fit related issue.

It would add some clarity to others that will read these threads while searching for an answer for their issues.

[Rick Bollinger]

I bought a OEM rebuilt steering box from car quest auto parts before I re-built my front end. Nothing to do with CPP. Ordered the Moog parts through Summit Racing using my 68 as a parts look up. They gave me choices to manufactures and went with Moog. I also bought Moog upper and lower swing arm bushings and Moog everything that didn't come with the CPP disc brake kit. Now Summit list the Pitman arm as not for our truck and it was listed as a fit when I bought it. Same as the OP I am sure. Now they don't list a moog part for our trucks.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Rick Bollinger

I bought a OEM rebuilt steering box from car quest auto parts before I re-built my front end. Nothing to do with CPP. Ordered the Moog parts through Summit Racing using my 68 as a parts look up. They gave me choices to manufactures and went with Moog. I also bought Moog upper and lower swing arm bushings and Moog everything that didn't come with the CPP disc brake kit. Now Summit list the Pitman arm as not for our truck and it was listed as a fit when I bought it. Same as the OP I am sure. Now they don't list a moog part for our trucks.

Gotcha. Your previous post had details that could be interpreted differently depending on how it's 'read'. I thought your set-up w/the issue was the CPP/Moog pitman arm combo:

I rebuilt my front end last winter with Moog and cpp drop spindle and disc brake kit. First off when I bought the truck the power steering gearbox was leaking bad so I replaced it with a rebuilt oem from local parts store. The following winter I did the CPP kit with Moog pitman arm and drag link. My pitman arm went on exactly like the OP's. My center link was a tight fit but does not hit but after seeing this I think I will replace it with a new one. It must be the pitman arm is not machined right. Oh my truck is a 68.

[Rick Bollinger]

I wonder if we should start another thread about this to let others know about the wrong pitman arm. I am sure there are others that still have them on there trucks like we do.
I almost didn't look at this thread because it sounded like the "normal" flipped center link thread. I am glad that I did. I bet there are hundreds of these wrong pitman arms running around. When my front end was aligned the guy even told me he tried to put it on further and couldn't get it to budge. I am going to swap it out with another one.

[maynardogle]

I read this post from the beginning, because, my 71 shortbed is (near as I can tell) 100% stock and my centerlink definitely touches the Crossmember, which is still in with its factory original rivets. My steering box and pittman is also original (probably, but I did have it rebuilt a year ago due to leaking at the bottom shaft and now I am wondering if the leak was age related or if the center rod was pushing the steering box shaft, even just a little bit, when it rubbed the centerlink. If I was thinking to remedy this the only solutions I can think of are 1) reconfigured center link, or 2) slightly shorter Pittman arm and corresponding idler arm, or maybe, 3) new holes for both the box and the idler. IMHO, #2 seems easiest.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by maynardogle

I read this post from the beginning, because, my 71 shortbed is (near as I can tell) 100% stock and my centerlink definitely touches the Crossmember, which is still in with its factory original rivets. My steering box and pittman is also original (probably, but I did have it rebuilt a year ago due to leaking at the bottom shaft and now I am wondering if the leak was age related or if the center rod was pushing the steering box shaft, even just a little bit, when it rubbed the centerlink. If I was thinking to remedy this the only solutions I can think of are 1) reconfigured center link, or 2) slightly shorter Pittman arm and corresponding idler arm, or maybe, 3) new holes for both the box and the idler. IMHO, #2 seems easiest.

The center link travels very closely to the front x-member structure that's bolted in (it's not riveted). If it made contact w/the x-member, the steering wheel would hang-up/bind every time it occurred. There would also be wear marks where it make contact.

Not counting some sort of damage that could easily have happened in a lifetime of miles, the only way the center-link could make contact on the x-member would most likely be if the center-link, Tie-rods, steering box, or Pitman arm/Idler were changed @ some point.

[carbon69]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Good deal! Thanks for following upon that. Many people don't and leave no posted solution....

LockDoc

Absolutely! I've come across several threads that dead end, kinda frustrating. I'm glad there was an easy solution. Anybody having this issue, I recommend giving this pitman arm a shot. It amazed me how much the the center link leveled out, and pulled away from from the crossmember with only pushing the pitman onto the steering gear an extra 1/4 inch.

[PowerdbyChevy79]

There is some great info here...

[54blackhornet]

Originally Posted by carbon69

I considered that...

The only other thing I thought would work is to loosen the crossmember from the frame and see if I can move it back towards the rear. I'm just not sure how much it would actually move. I'd hate to pull the engine and remove everything just to find out it won't budge.

After looking at it again, if I could get that pitman arm to go on another 1/4 or even a bit less, it will pull the link up and away...

I was hoping to hear from someone who's used this box on a build, I know there's a few members that have.

Love the patina on your pickup.

[jerry moss]

get rid of that CPP garbage before that steering box fails- i've seen it happen . order a red head box for your own safety.

[1LIME69]

I had the same issue with the CPP box and new pitman arm. I lubed the splines with anti-seize and drove the pitman arm nut on with an impact gun, removed nut and pitman arm, lubed splines, drove back on with impact gun and repeated multiple times before i could drive the pitman arm further up on the splines and gained enough clearance between crossmember. It took an hour or so, but I finally got it.

[Already Gone]

Had a 2 1/2 inch drop spindle ( McGaugheys ) and had all my front end parts replaced with Moog stuff, except the drag link, and added a Borgeson Steering Box as well. Went together like jam and got a wheel alignment from grey haired guy that does lots of front end stuff on classics and truck steers perfect.