better ride quality

[forestb]

I am measuring (buy eye) the distance between my rear end tubes to my frame. The bump stops have been shaved vary short. I zoomed in one of the photos to show what the bump stops now look like. I have not measured the distance between the pumpkin and the bed floor.

[forestb]

thanks for rotating my photos

[forestb]

here is a lighter version

[PGSigns]

You are on the stops in the back fairly often. You can clearly see the marks on the stop. A weak shock and or just not enough room will cause this. Here is a suggestion for improving the ride. Pull the rear blocks and see it it helps. A test to see how easy it is on the stop is to put the tail gate down and you and a buddy stand on it bounce the truck some if you feel it hittin its time to make a change. Raise the rear or ad a c-notch.
Jimmy

[forestb]

I don’t believe I ever hit the bump stops. The marks on the stops are from when I shortened them with a hacksaw. Unless you are taking about the light spots. That might just be light shining through. I think the only time I made contact in the rear is when I tried putting on 2” blocks instead of just the 1” and when I had to much weight in the bed. But I will try the bouncing up and down test. The rear shocks are fairly stiff. When I unbolted one side to measure the length I could not compress it without using a ratchet strap. I will take a better look this weekend and take some better photos.

[forestb]

When I disconnected the front shocks while I was getting rid of my front bump stop purchase I was able to compress the shocks fairly easily by hand

[forestb]

I came across these on the POL sight. The only problem is I don't know how I will install then sense the 62 frame is boxed in that location.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by forestb

I came across these on the POL sight. The only problem is I don't know how I will install then sense the 62 frame is boxed in that location.

Weld them in place on top of the rail?
You could also possibly weld them in place on the side of the rail if flipped (you'd need to verify it would work first).

Or, drill access holes (over-sized) on the inner boxed portion which would prob require moving engine compartment items out of the way.

[forestb]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Weld them in place on top of the rail?
You could also possibly weld them in place on the side of the rail if flipped (you'd need to verify it would work first).

Or, drill access holes (over-sized) on the inner boxed portion which would prob require moving engine compartment items out of the way.

I could probably also cut some access holes on the outside of the frame. Even if I removed the headers I don’t think I would have space .

[forestb]

Some new rear photos with the wait on I don’t think I am bottoming out in the rear. I think those marks were from when I moved some parts around and had to much weight in the bed and bottomed out. I cleaned them off and will check again later. It isn’t that bad of a ride it is just that I feel every bump in the road.

[PGSigns]

If you can easily compress a shock by hand its toast. When you compressed it did it stay compressed or extend back out? Should take about 30 pounds or more pressure to compress a shock depending on the valving.
Jimmy

[forestb]

Yes I think it is toast. I was not able to tell how quickly it rebounded sense I bolted it in right after I compressed it. I think my plan moving forward is to get a set of stock length Belltech shocks and the relocators that I posted earlier.

[forestb]

I am deliberating between QA1 shocks and Bellteck shocks.

[PGSigns]

I have been happy with the beltech. In the rear with the mods the style and diameter of the shock you choose may come into play.
Jimmy

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by forestb

Some new rear photos with the wait on I don’t think I am bottoming out in the rear. I think those marks were from when I moved some parts around and had to much weight in the bed and bottomed out. I cleaned them off and will check again later. It isn’t that bad of a ride it is just that I feel every bump in the road.

Meant to post this earlier but never got around to it. A small dab of bearing grease on the bump-stop would give you a positive visual confirmation.

[forestb]

When I get it back on the ground I will give it try but I don’t think that is the problem. In the past when I have had a lot of weight in the bed it drove smoother. During that same time it was bottoming out when I went over big bumps so I know how it feels and sounds. But just to make sure I am going to try your idea. I still have not heard back from cop about the spring rate. I might have to actually call them. I am not surprised that they have not contacted me. I have never had good results with their customer service.

[forestb]

I sent this question to Bellteck

"I have a 77 chevy c10 that has 2 inch drop coils in front. I was wondering if you think it is best for me to use your drop shocks or am I better off using your stock height shocks and getting upper shock relocators?"

And this was his answer.

"I would suggest the drop shocks versus the stock shocks with relocators. The stock shocks are valved very differently and may cause a bouncy ride in the front end of your truck. The street performance lowering shocks are valved stiffer for the best possible ride."

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by forestb

I sent this question to Bellteck

"I have a 77 chevy c10 that has 2 inch drop coils in front. I was wondering if you think it is best for me to use your drop shocks or am I better off using your stock height shocks and getting upper shock relocators?"

And this was his answer.

"I would suggest the drop shocks versus the stock shocks with relocators. The stock shocks are valved very differently and may cause a bouncy ride in the front end of your truck. The street performance lowering shocks are valved stiffer for the best possible ride."

This is true to varying degrees. Does one want a better valved shock that matches the coils spring-rate & travel? Yes. If it's the matched shock for the coils you have, you could give them a shot.

This is why I like drop spindles as a priority part up front. You get drop that doesn't impact the suspensions travel (extension/compression). The shorter coil does impact the travel. And, the shorter it is, the greater the impact.

[forestb]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

This is true to varying degrees. Does one want a better valved shock that matches the coils spring-rate & travel? Yes. If it's the matched shock for the coils you have, you could give them a shot.

This is why I like drop spindles as a priority part up front. You get drop that doesn't impact the suspensions travel (extension/compression). The shorter coil does impact the travel. And, the shorter it is, the greater the impact.

I already have the drop spindles. So what are you recommending then? That if I get the drop shocks then I should get there coils also?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by forestb

I already have the drop spindles. So what are you recommending then? That if I get the drop shocks then I should get there coils also?

What I'm saying is their recommendation works if/when things are matched. CPP coils could have a 700# rate; Belltechs springs could be a 1000# rate. That difference will impact how the shocks work.

Did he ask you about the spring rate to know the valving of their 'drop-shock' was actually a better match? My bet is no because people seem to like recommending 'new' parts w/o really trying to help you work through YOUR existing combo. Like I said, the shorter/stiffer shocks are worth a shot if they work w/your needs.

How much room was there before the bump-stop made contact now that you've trimmed things? Did Belltech provide you w/drop-shock dimensions to compare w/your set-up?

13" fully extended
8 3/4" fully compressed
11 1/4" with full wait on the tires

[forestb]

Did Belltech provide you w/drop-shock dimensions to compare?

No but I was looking on the summit web sight under the question and answer section and they said it is

Collapsed - 9.5 in.
Extended - 14 in.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by forestb

Did Belltech provide you w/drop-shock dimensions to compare?

No but I was looking on the summit web sight under the question and answer section and they said it is

Collapsed - 9.5 in.
Extended - 14 in.

Those numbers indicate the travel will be reduced further than what you currently have (8.75" current @ full compression vs. 9.5").

[forestb]

So it sounds like even if I get there drop shock I will still need a shock relocation bracket?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by forestb

So it sounds like even if I get there drop shock I will still need a shock relocation bracket?

Like I mentioned previously, the guy you asked for info about the shocks didn't ask you enough questions to actually HELP.

Based on the math, I think relocating the upper mounts will only help you. Definitely shouldn't make things worse.

[forestb]

I’m sorry if I offended you I didn’t mean to be contrary. While I agree that he did not ask enough questions I don’t feel that he was just trying to sell me on a product. I only say that because I was asking him which one of their products he recommended. Maybe I should have asked more questions. I probably would not have had the answers he needed anyway. I tried calling cpp and their automated system only gave me the option to ask installation questions. I probably should have chosen that option but instead I hung up