86 Suburban daily driver

[SBTork]

Awesome build! Reminds me of mine for sure.

Would you happen to have a picture or could take one of the rear barn door lock actuator location/bracket/etc? I need to add one to my '85 as it never had one and I'd really like to add it.

[BlueJeep]

Thanks all! LED headlight upgrade is coming next when I get a little time. Found some with great reviews with Amazon open-box pricing! If they work well, it didn't cost much more than the relay harness would have.

Adam, sent you a PM. I can get you any pics/measurements you need.

[ShortHaul]

Mind sharing that Amazon link? I’ve been after a set of led headlights for a while, but I’ve found they are either too expensive for my taste, or they look too modern for my taste. I really like the OG looking patterned glass lens that Dapper Lighting offers, but their prices are craaaaazy high.. I also considered VintageCarLED but didn’t find many reviews on their product...

[BlueJeep]

Originally Posted by ShortHaul

Mind sharing that Amazon link? I’ve been after a set of led headlights for a while, but I’ve found they are either too expensive for my taste, or they look too modern for my taste. I really like the OG looking patterned glass lens that Dapper Lighting offers, but their prices are craaaaazy high.. I also considered VintageCarLED but didn’t find many reviews on their product...

Sure. These are pretty modern looking, but because of the phantom grille on my sub I don't think it will be noticeable.

Here is the review (which I found very informative):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wDJrn0JD_wM&t=1s

And the Amazon link to what I bought (4x6 rectangle, I know yours are round). I took advantage of the "used" option on Amazon for mine, which are usually their returns that the original packaging is damaged but the product itself isn't, and they sell at discounted prices. I paid $65.xx for these.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[BlueJeep]

Had some craigslist luck today and scored a 2wd 4L60e, which aren't super easy to find here! Also found some Trailblazer SS exhaust manifolds last weekend. Collecting parts.....

[Pontiac1976]

I hope you checked the manifolds good because they prone to cracks. They look like they been running a little hot the on the right mostly. The cracks mostly happen at the v off the ports. Just in case you did not know good luck.
looking pretty good so far for the burb.

[BlueJeep]

Originally Posted by Pontiac1976

I hope you checked the manifolds good because they prone to cracks. They look like they been running a little hot the on the right mostly. The cracks mostly happen at the v off the ports. Just in case you did not know good luck.
looking pretty good so far for the burb.

Thanks for the tip, I did not know that so I'll have to check them out good.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I highly recommend 'over-doing' the c-notch if planning to tow. A simple bolt-in raised floor allows for better frame rail height above the notch & ample pumpkin clearance (win/win). It doesn't have to steal too-much interior compartment space. Even raised just 2" allows for a superior ('safer' since you're a family guy) set-up & wouldn't be that noticeable.

Originally Posted by BlueJeep

Thanks! The whole family is on board with it, as soon as I get a few things fixed (including A/C).

Thanks for the heads-up, and I'm already on it! I already measured the space between the top of the diff and the floor, and used that as my measurement as to how deep the notch reasonably should be. I want to cut as little as necessary because hooking up a trailer is still important to me.

Here's an image of a shop built notch. Not much clearance gained for the work but it is what it is. I bet if you extended the plating on both sides of the frame to where it's just below the floor (box the inside of the rail & plate the outside portion), you gain strength & could go ~3" into the rail. wouldn't have to cap the top off making it an easier install (as long as it doesn't trap moisture).

[BlueJeep]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Here's an image of a shop built notch. Not much clearance gained for the work but it is what it is. I bet if you extended the plating on both sides of the frame to where it's just below the floor (box the inside of the rail & plate the outside portion), you gain strength & could go ~3" into the rail. wouldn't have to cap the top off making it an easier install (as long as it doesn't trap moisture).

Thanks for the picture! Is that a blazer by chance? Mine doesn't have the crossmember right above he notch like that one. I will box the inside for sure, and I was also thinking of running it higher and filling in some of the gap between the frame and the floor.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by BlueJeep

Thanks for the picture! Is that a blazer by chance? Mine doesn't have the crossmember right above he notch like that one. I will box the inside for sure, and I was also thinking of running it higher and filling in some of the gap between the frame and the floor.

Yes. It's a Blazer.

I would make the plates as tall as will fit. The strength is in their height. Capping them will add some rigidity but the main thing would be the height & doing it to both sides (like an I-beam).

[BlueJeep]

Originally Posted by Pontiac1976

I hope you checked the manifolds good because they prone to cracks. They look like they been running a little hot the on the right mostly. The cracks mostly happen at the v off the ports. Just in case you did not know good luck.
looking pretty good so far for the burb.

I gave the manifolds a quick dusting in the blast cabinet so I could check for cracks, these are good to go! Were rusty, but other than that just fine.

[BlueJeep]

While planning for my notch, I had a chance to stop at a Pick-N-Pull and grab some more parts off the list. Realizing how much I use the rack on top of my DD suburban, I wanted the utility of one for this one too. I grabbed the rack off a 2005 Suburban, the cross-bars will need to be narrowed just a bit and it'll fit great! The way they are put together, it will be easy to narrow them. I also want to not get rear-ended in traffic if I can help it. The LED taillights I already added plus this LED 3rd brake light off a 2004 Tahoe should help with that. Nothing is mounted yet, just sitting there for a preview.

[BlueJeep]

I've been planning for my notch for a while now. I've now come up with a solid plan and I've started in on it. It may take me a while because lots of other stuff going on, but have a start on it.

First up was fixing where the wheels sit in the wheel wells. It drove me nuts that they weren't centered. I also couldn't live with the u-shaped flip brackets. I know there are thousands of them out there....but doesn't do the job for me. My number ended up being 1/2" back from the centering pin.

[BlueJeep]

Got my template figured out and transferred it to 3/16" plate. The outside will be plated, the inside will be boxed, and the notch cut out and welded in. They raise up about 1" above the original frame rails, and will be capped. All of this will be below the floor. The inside of the C-Channel frame also needs to be trimmed, because it is in no way straight enough for boxing plates! I had to remove the body mount and will trim 3/16" out of it before it goes back on.

More to come!

[BlueJeep]

Got a decent start on the notch this weekend. There was quite a bit more fine tuning I had to do with the plates I had previously cut out, but I'm pretty happy with how it's turning out. I started out with cutting out for the notch, then welding in a piece of 1/4" plate I bent in the shape I wanted.

[BlueJeep]

After I had the basic notch in, I worked on boxing the inside of the frame rail. Not fun working out of position with obstacles in the way, but I did make it happen.

[BlueJeep]

I then worked on the doubler plate for the outside. If I didn't have aspirations of pulling my trailer, I would have skipped this step. The back I did wrap into the shock mount "depression" in the frame.

[BlueJeep]

Last on the list for this weekend was to section the appropriate amount out of the body mount so that everything still lined up. This was a pretty basic operation with mock up at the end. Now after I get the other side done, I'll jack the body up off the frame and cap both notches. Again, they extend up above the existing frame rails to just below the floor.

[SCOTI]

Looks good.

[focusedontheprize]

Nice work and that notch looks to be absolutely solid.

[Corts60]

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

It was a standalone option KC4, or included with the HD trailering package Z82.

K

https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/doc...t-Suburban.pdf

My '86 half ton burb has the trailering package and has the cooler.

How come you didn't just replace the hoses? Never gonna tow anything?

[Corts60]

Great work on that notch!

[BlueJeep]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Looks good.

Originally Posted by focusedontheprize

Nice work and that notch looks to be absolutely solid.

Originally Posted by Corts60

Great work on that notch!

Originally Posted by Corts60

My '86 half ton burb has the trailering package and has the cooler.

How come you didn't just replace the hoses? Never gonna tow anything?

Thanks guys!

As to the cooler, they aren't that effective vs. the leaking problems they have so the benefits don't outweigh the costs (risks). That, and this will only have a SBC for a little while, I'm gathering parts for a 5.3 swap. I will still pull a trailer.

[BlueJeep]

More progress with the notch. The passenger side is now done!!! I had to jack up the body off the frame to weld the top of it, so yes at this point I really envy the pickup guys who can just take the bed off to do this! I opted to not cap the notch in the interest of getting it done, and I don't feel like I'm leaving that much strength on the table.

[SCOTI]

I wouldn't worry about not capping it. The strength is in the height & each side is still 'connected' within 1-2 inches below of the top.