K20 basket case resurrection

[Osker]

Here are some pictures of the roof rust issues. It is fixable but not by me. This is out of my skill level range.

With the floor issues, the rear passenger side repair with a half inch of filler and the roof issues it was telling me that we were not going to be spending a lot of time together.

This cab went to long term storage, and I located a replacement.

[Osker]

The Ochre cab looks like it can get away with rockers and kick panels and some floor patches, nothing on the scale of the blue cab but it does need some work. I won’t know until I really dig into it and get some of the paint and undercoating off. It's stashed and dry. Next focus is starting on cleaning up the frame.

[Osker]

With the frame naked except for the running gear I started cutting four non factory brackets off that were under the bed. On one of these the cutting wheel shattered on the grinder and the change in the force threw the grinder into my face but I had a full face shield on and filter mask so I was OK but it makes you take notice of safety precautions.

[Osker]

Then I cut off the exhaust system. I realize none of this is extremely exciting, but I always like looking at the other board members pictures and seeing what’s going on. It’s like a story. So here’s the pile of pipe that’s going to the scrapyard. One step closer on the Rustoration.

[Osker]

The frame does not look bad anywhere and no major structural rust. Mostly surface rust. I was thinking about getting it sandblasted but that is a whole other logistical project and I think I can strip, clean, and paint the frame at the house. It is in decent shape and I am not looking to build a show truck. Just clean up what is there and make it serviceable and presentable again. I figure the money saved on blasting I can put into something else on the truck. I was quoted at $900 for blasting the frame and axles.

I pressure washed the frame but it didn't remove as much as I thought it would, but I didn't use oven cleaner or anything like that, just water. So I started scraping the sludge and caked on grease and dirt off the front of the frame, transmission, and transfer case with a putty knife. I figure that If I can get the big chunks off it will assist me later on as I get the frame stripped down further. I don’t plan on taking any rivets out, but I will disassemble the bolted frame pieces.

[Osker]

I took off the brake and fuel lines. I saved the hardware. The brake lines were toasted. The fuel line looks like it’s reusable at first look. I’ll save it. I bagged all the hardware and put index cards with notes in the baggies. For past projects I wrote in marker on baggies and after a while grease and dirt and time obscure what you wrote on the baggie. The index card lets you write as much as you need to.

[Osker]

I lifted out the transmission and transfer case. I’m running out of room to store components in the garage so I plan to keep everything in the same footprint of the frame by putting the trans and T case on dollies and storing under the frame that will be eventually raised on some sawhorses. Then when I get the axles off the frame they will be on dollies, and I can keep them under the raised frame and move them in and out as necessary. The dollies allow me to work on the axles when I get to that part.

I lifted out the trans by using some eye bolts, chain, and a snap ring to make a 3 point lift rig. There were only two bolts holding the trans to the adapter and both were on the passenger side. Top bolt was easy to get out. Lower bolt was more of a challenge, not much room to work with.

Once the bolts were out and a little wiggling the trans separated from the adapter and it was up and out of the way. I got it set on a Harbor Freight dolly and resting on 2 each 2x4’s that run long wise on the dolly, the flange of the transmission pan rests on the 2x4s and it’s well supported and easy to move around. I wrapped the tail up in some plastic bags and taped it down to keep it clean while it rolls around the garage.

[Osker]

I have tons of respect for the forum members that have documented their projects. It takes a lot of work to take pictures, upload, and post. To do that consistently is a great effort so I appreciate everything people do to share their progress, challenges, solutions, and encouragement. A lot of this is done for the love of the hobby and most of us I think are doing this in our spare time. Keep it up everyone and thank you for sharing.

[Osker]

The transfer case came out decently. Everything I read on the forum and online about removal is right, it is a heavy and unwieldy beast. I used a floor jack and some scrap to stabilize it when I removed it. Lifting from the top was easy compared to thinking about doing this from below on a complete truck. Hats off to you that have done that.

[Osker]

I got some sawhorses built and put them on casters so I can move the frame around, in and out of the garage so I can do the dirty stuff outside. More of a trestle. The wood prices are ridiculous with the pandemic effects. Last year a 8 foot 2x4 was less than 2 bucks. These 2x4's were just shy of 7 dollars each.

[Osker]

I have been slowly wire wheeling the frame after work with a 4.5 inch grinder. There is no way that a drill would have the power or leverage to do the whole frame. There are a few spots that I need to get a smaller wire brush into. I estimate that it have about 20 hours into it so far. I think total hours to get the frame wire wheeled will be around 30, with cleaning the axles probably close to 40 hours. Every so often I think about the sandblasting. I may change my mind if I can’t get some of the hard to reach spots. I’m not giving up yet on the manual removal effort.

On a few places I applied the Rustoleum Rust Converter but I found that it does not penetrate through the dirt and grime that is mixed in with the rust. I think in select situations it is a solution for bare rusted metal. I’ll keep wire wheeling.

[Osker]

On the rear where those welded on brackets were welded on, I stated to clean up the remnants of what was left. I used the 4.5 inch grinder wheel, but I think a die grinder with the ball burr will allow me to remove more remaining weld material on the bracket and eventually get it to pop of the frame without gouging the frame too terribly.

[Osker]

The step bumper was welded on with some half inch plate steel brackets that I needed to get removed. I used a carbide burr to grind down the welds. I want to use a stock bumper with the hidden hitch system. If I didn’t remove the leftover brackets, I won’t be able to use the original bumper mounting holes.

[Osker]

Next I removed the axles. This is where those sawhorses came into play. I loosened the front leaf spring attachments and raised the frame up from the axle assembly with the engine hoist. I rolled the axle out of the way and raised the frame high enough to get the sawhorse under the frame. Then I did the same with the rear axle. I am able to keep it all in the same footprint of the frame and be able to move the frame to wire wheel it outside of the garage.

[rowdy11]

Watching your transfer case come out brought back some small nightmares for me. Congrats on the progress!

[landarts]

Looks good! keep marching forward and check items off as you go. Set small victory and give it another chance at being on the road. Again nice job!

[franken]

Nice. I tend to put as much junk in the garage on wheels as possible as well. With only a 2 car garage it helps...

[LT7A]

Good progress. You are organized and methodical. I like seeing the truck be saved. FWIW, I use simple green to deal with crusted chassis parts. Spray undiluted, wait half an hour. Pressure wash. After a few times I am always surprised how clean it gets. Looks like you are almost through that phase of work though.

[Dieselwrencher]

Very nice work! I've wire wheeled several frames and I always think it would be better to have them blasted. But the guy I used to use for blasting quit doing it years ago and his prices had me spoiled. I was quoted $650 to have a K20 frame blasted last time I checked and that was the cheapest guy. Luckily I have some young boys that like to help now.

I like your frame dollies. The only thing I might add is a piece of wood or 2 pieces of angle iron from the front one to the back one to help keep them from getting caught on a crack and tipping out from under the frame. Speaking from experience here.

Keep up the great work. I've got a K20 I need to get started on but I just can't find the time.

[Jiggers72-GMC]

Great job so far & thx for all the pix, keep it up

I'm surprised that you're allowed to work outside in the housing complex, you must have great neighbors .........