Who builds the best 700R4 today?

[dagnabbitt]

I got a non-electronic 1991 700r4 from a friend who tried to rebuild it on his kitchen table. I paid $100, his wife was so happy with the sale.

I took it to a local guy who rebuilt it with a shift kit and stall etc, and I have never been happier. Best place to buy from is someone you trust, and then take it to someone who will warranty the work. Cost me about $1700 USD and it is the best part of my drivetrain.

If you have unlimited budget buy from Gearstars, of course, but you'd be surprised, there are still some people out there that can rebuild them as good as new.

[Accelo]

A friend of mine got totally screwed on a 4l60E purchase over the internet. the vendor would put him on hold and ignore the phone or no one was ever in that could make a decision.
When it was dismantled locally the seals were cut on the pump. ONLY way it would have gone together is if it was forced using the bolts.
Shipping is so prohibitive I wouldn't purchase over the internet unless it was ran and tested before leaving the shop. Your motor is likely less than 400hp and any reputable shop should be able to handle that. You will need a core, be sure it is an 1987 to 1992 version. Earlier ones are not worth messing with. When you get a core be sure to get the TV cable, the mount, the dipstick tube and the converter cover at the same time.
Rick

[Myself]

Originally Posted by Accelo

You will need a core, be sure it is an 1987 to 1992 version. Earlier ones are not worth messing with.
Rick

The earlier ones are fine as any good rebuild also entails updating the weaker pump and other early known issues.

[oneperfectrun]

Originally Posted by ratpackv8sonly

Looking at buying a built 700R4 for my 69 C/10. Was talking to both monster and bow tie overdrive. But was wondering if anyone here had any thought as to why or why not use someone. Not looking at doing the 4l60E or 4l80E so don't need input on them. Thanks in advance for any info.

I sent you a pm.

[oneperfectrun]

Originally Posted by ratpackv8sonly

Looking at buying a built 700R4 for my 69 C/10. Was talking to both monster and bow tie overdrive. But was wondering if anyone here had any thought as to why or why not use someone. Not looking at doing the 4l60E or 4l80E so don't need input on them. Thanks in advance for any info.

I sent you a pm.

[Accelo]

Originally Posted by Myself

The earlier ones are fine as any good rebuild also entails updating the weaker pump and other early known issues.

I 100% disagree with you. The GM book that covers the updates, to the 700R4 transmission, is thicker than the original rebuild manual. The cost to update a pre-87 transmission would be astronomical. No reputational shop would use one especially behind some HP.
Rick

[dagnabbitt]

Originally Posted by Accelo

I 100% disagree with you. The GM book that covers the updates, to the 700R4 transmission, is thicker than the original rebuild manual. The cost to update a pre-87 transmission would be astronomical. No reputational shop would use one especially behind some HP.
Rick

Since 87-92 700r4's are really easy to find in any junkyard you might as well use one of them.

[cj847]

Originally Posted by ratpackv8sonly

Just got done talking to the local best transmission guy in town....got the typical runaround that I expected with having the wrong transmission, guess I have a first generation. Now he was willing to upgrade all the parts in it but its like I said again the people around here have no clue how to build it for a custom application. He had no idea how to make the lockup work if it wasn't being installed in the original car. So back to sending it off to get built. After spending the day reading everyone's reviews....looks as its going to PhoenixTransmission.

Unless you are in a big hurry, I would continue looking for a local shop. Stop by the 4x4 shops and hot rod shops etc and ask who they recommend. From your comments, it is obvious you are not talking to the right people. I agree, a good transmission shop is hard to find. But a 700R4 behind a 383 in a 67-72 pickup is not at all a "custom" or difficult situation.

[dagnabbitt]

Originally Posted by cj847

Unless you are in a big hurry, I would continue looking for a local shop. Stop by the 4x4 shops and hot rod shops etc and ask who they recommend. From your comments, it is obvious you are not talking to the right people. I agree, a good transmission shop is hard to find. But a 700R4 behind a 383 in a 67-72 pickup is not at all a "custom" or difficult situation.

Agree, in fact a 383 - 700r4 combo is actually pretty sensible, I am putting a 383 in front of my 700r4 this spring, hopefully.

When OP gets his 700r4 the only to discuss next is the rear end.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by ratpackv8sonly

I have found out through a few phone calls that we do infact have a transmission guy here in town now that is doing the 700R4. Talked to him on the phone and plan on stopping by after work. Just hope it's not a waist of time and money. What worries me is after I told him what I have, he feels it's just a stock rebuild for me with a few extra parts needing to be beefed up.

That may very well be the case. Ask him which specific parts will be stronger than stock. Also, I'd ask him questions such as, "Why does the 700R4 have such a bad rep?" And, "How do you adjust the TV cable?"

[oneperfectrun]

Originally Posted by MikeB

That may very well be the case. Ask him which specific parts will be stronger than stock. Also, I'd ask him questions such as, "Why does the 700R4 have such a bad rep?" And, "How do you adjust the TV cable?"

That last question is critical with the 700r4’s. Getting tv cable set isn’t hard but if not adjusted correctly it will ruin a 700r4 quickly.

[hjewell2]

Originally Posted by jimijam00

I wouldn't worry about the "complaints" you read online about Monster or some of these other transmission builders. They have sold thousands of these things, and those few problems find their way online. When there is something to ***** about, online is the first place people turn to over the past 10 years. These "I have a buddy" stories are amusing though. Of course nobody knows if the buddy failed to set the TV cable correctly, which is the most common reason these mail order 700R4s fail.

Here to tell ya Monster is not the go to trans , th350 th400 700r 4L6 4L8..

[jimijam00]

Originally Posted by oneperfectrun

That last question is critical with the 700r4’s. Getting tv cable set isn’t hard but if not adjusted correctly it will ruin a 700r4 quickly.

Zactly! It's all about line pressure, fellas. A lot of shadetree DIYers have no idea how this works.

Originally Posted by hjewell2

Here to tell ya Monster is not the go to trans , th350 th400 700r 4L6 4L8..

Since you are here, read my post a few more times. You should notice that NOWHERE did I state that Monster is the go to trans.

[Myself]

Originally Posted by Accelo

I 100% disagree with you. The GM book that covers the updates, to the 700R4 transmission, is thicker than the original rebuild manual. The cost to update a pre-87 transmission would be astronomical. No reputational shop would use one especially behind some HP.
Rick

Oh nonsense.....and I'm stating this from experience. I'm not a professional rebuilder but I've done several 700r4's a couple 4l60e's an Infiniti 5 speed auto, a couple C4's, a C6, a couple 200c's, and a handful of TH350's. YES, there were MANY updates and changes through the 700r4's life. But the main differences between early and late are 27 VS 30 spline input shafts which was adressed in early '84.....I don't know anybody that's ever broken one. Stronger ring gear I believe in '85.....again, don't anybody that's broken one, then the auxillary VB and 10 vane pump in '87. As far as extra strength, the input shaft is easily replaced during an overhaul and readily available. The ring gear I personnaly feel like is a non-issue. The pump vanes get upgraded if it's an older unit. Which style VB has nothing to do with overall strength of the trans. The HD sun shell is a MUST in any of them INCLUDING the latest ones......yes, I have seen those break the collar right off. My personal daily driven hotrod had about 65,000 miles on it with MANY MANY 6000rpm 2-3 shifts through the years on an '85 model with the stock 27 spline shaft.

That being said........there are plenty of 87-up versions out there so if you need to buy a core to start with then sure.....buy one of those. But like I said earlier, it's not a deal breaker if you find an old one cheap.

[MikeB]

On yet another note, on 69-72 trucks, is the shift shaft of the 700R4 in the same position relative to the frame as the TH350? Or will I have to make some mods to the shift linkage?

I've done the swap before, but it was on a 37 Chevy with a Lokar cable-actuated floor shifter. I was totally OCD about properly setting up the TV cable, so I dropped the pan to ensure there was no gap between the lever and valve. And that was after the warm idle speed had been adjusted with choke fully open to keep "fast idle" linkage out of the picture. I wonder how many guys think about doing that?

[Accelo]

The shift shaft of the 700R4 is in a slightly different position compared to the TH350.
However, I was able to make it work by relocating the frame adapter. In my case, only one of the holes needs to be re-located to make it work.
Just adjust the pointer when you are done. The rest of the linkage stays stock and unmodified.
Can be changed back at any time.

[tim_mc]

Originally Posted by MikeB

On yet another note, on 69-72 trucks, is the shift shaft of the 700R4 in the same position relative to the frame as the TH350? Or will I have to make some mods to the shift linkage?

I've done the swap before, but it was on a 37 Chevy with a Lokar cable-actuated floor shifter. I was totally OCD about properly setting up the TV cable, so I dropped the pan to ensure there was no gap between the lever and valve. And that was after the warm idle speed had been adjusted with choke fully open to keep "fast idle" linkage out of the picture. I wonder how many guys think about doing that?

IIRC, the shift shaft is in the same position or very close to the TH350, so no changes should be needed to the shift linkage other than adjusting for the additional gear on the 3+OD shift indicator.

EDIT: I am not using the factory OE shift linkage. I've installed one of these kits (shown in the attached pic):
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...+5ba1510bccac7

I also dropped the pan and checked the plunger depth. My transmission builder gave me an instruction sheet on how to do it, so I made sure to check before adding fluid.

[randy.powell]

Bow Tie Overdrives has vote!
Good comms, built my tranny for "ehanced" horsepower/torque gear ratios etc.
Excellent workmanship.
Will get my business the next time again.
My 2 cents worth.
But do what works for you, Brother!
RP

[Accelo]

EDIT: I am not using the factory OE shift linkage. I've installed one of these kits (shown in the attached pic):
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...+5ba1510bccac7

Did you used headers on you application? If you did were they shorties? How about a picture of the installation? Looks like my headers are going to interfere with the factory linkage setup.
Rick

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by tim_mc

I am not using the factory OE shift linkage. I've installed one of these kits (shown in the attached pic):
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...+5ba1510bccac7

Hey Tim, how did that shift linkage kit work out for you? I tried to use the real Lokar version on on my 82 C10 (because I don't like CPP), but the rod needed to be bent to clear the firewall and the heim joints didn't have enough "misalignment". I finally gave up and found some OE linkage that served me well.

[tim_mc]

Originally Posted by Accelo

Did you used headers on you application? If you did were they shorties? How about a picture of the installation? Looks like my headers are going to interfere with the factory linkage setup.
Rick

I used Summit's full-length 304SS headers. I've attached a couple of pics. My 350 SBC is mounted in the I6/4x4 position further back against the firewall.

[bbarooo]

Good timing on this question for me as I've been experimenting on this having recently purchased a 700r from monster and one from bowtie. Both transmissions seem about the same in performance but the customer service at bowtie was considerably better. They were true to their timeframe and quick to answer questions. Niether true for monster. I purchased conversion kits from both and the quality of accessories from bowtie was better as well. I used a local builder for a 3rd rebuild but I haven't had a chance to install it yet. It was the least expensive of the 3 but I had to track down my own linkage and accessories.

[tim_mc]

Originally Posted by MikeB

Hey Tim, how did that shift linkage kit work out for you? I tried to use the real Lokar version on on my 82 C10 (because I don't like CPP), but the rod needed to be bent to clear the firewall and the heim joints didn't have enough "misalignment". I finally gave up and found some OE linkage that served me well.

Sorry Mike, I just saw your post. I like the heim joint shift linkage direct between the column and the trans shift shaft - good positive feel. I've never had it hang up on me. I did mess up the rod bend and length on the first try even after trying to use wire to estimate the geometry. My local Lowes had a 5/16"(?)x48" steel rod for my 2nd attempt. If I recall correctly I had to cut threads on one end of the replacement rod so it would screw into one of the heim joint rod ends.

[richards72chevy]

My coworker ordered a 700r4 from monster transmission he has been waiting for about a month for it to get to his house.

[richards72chevy]

Definitely don't go with monster.He got the transmission and noticed a moveras tag on it.He had a mechanic do the installation.He has only first and second gear.Moveras remanufactures transmissions for AutoZone.He priced the transmission at AutoZone it's only 1400 from AutoZone he paid monster 3,000 for this transmission.