Going back to factory intake and carb

[BigBird05]

I would like to know how you would machine a curve onto the intake manifold?

[Bbarbeau]

So I've found this for sale locally, I've asked what it came off of. What do you think? Wants $300 for it which seems high to me.

[BigBird05]

Sounds high to me even if it comes with the carb.

[lil hoodlum]

Originally Posted by Bbarbeau

So I've found this for sale locally, I've asked what it came off of. What do you think? Wants $300 for it which seems high to me.

I dunno, but I would pay $300 for that set up especially if the carb is in working order. Reman Quadrajets are going for $165 to $250 depending on core deposits. The pictured Quadrajet is a truck version by looking at the fuel line inlet orientation.

[Greasey Harley]

Originally Posted by Bbarbeau

So I've found this for sale locally, I've asked what it came off of. What do you think? Wants $300 for it which seems high to me.

$300 is crazy high in my opinion. Hundred, HundrednFifty bucks ...maybe.
I have about 30 QJ's (I have a problem) I never pay more than $20 for them. A lot of the time I get them for free.
Factory SBC intake manifolds, $20-100 depending on application and condition.
Maybe I'm just cheap?

[special-K]

Stock manifolds are a hard sale, so shouldn't cost much at all. A carb of unknown condition that I figure on rebuilding is worth $25. I've never paid more than that for a used carb. I see manifolds go for the same.

[mr.mud1]

Originally Posted by Bbarbeau

So I've found this for sale locally, I've asked what it came off of. What do you think? Wants $300 for it which seems high to me.

that's high,depends on how bad you want it guess.if the carb worked,didn't need rebuilding, that's the million $ question,maybe you could live with $300.00,but as mentioned,you can buy them for $25.00 to $50.00 and rebuild them and a plain old cast iron intake should be cheap.i'd keep looking.i do alot of quadrajets here but don't have a decent one i could recommend but if you find one and want to mail it me,i'll do it send it back to you.this pair together is nice,as you'd get the choke setup on the intake,if it was the divorced style,that matched the carb.they do work well.on the driver's side of the carb body,on the secondary end of it,you'll see numbers stamped,7 digits on the old ones,8 on the later.that number will identify what year and engine the carb came from,if you're buying one from someone who doesn't know.holler if i can help you.Greg

[Accelo]

How about the other stuff that gets lost in the change over?
You didn't list the year but this stuff is important for it all to work like factory.

The tall oil fill
The air cleaner with the associated exhaust heat tube and the manifold covers?
Throttle Linkage (you might get lucky here)
The choke linkage, bi-metal spring and cover.

[Bbarbeau]

Thanks - this is for a 72, sorry.

I found another intake that’s in a 69 GM. It’s got an EGR valve, no carb but I think the air cleaner may be available. The whole engine for $150 or parts off it. I’d want the valve covers too.

Number on the intake is: 3997771 which seems to be a 1973 intake. It has a pad on the passenger side which I assume is for the divorced choke? So I’d need to find a carb then and the associated mechanism?
Posted via Mobile Device

[mr.mud1]

Originally Posted by Bbarbeau

Thanks - this is for a 72, sorry.

I found another intake that’s in a 69 GM. It’s got an EGR valve, no carb but I think the air cleaner may be available. The whole engine for $150 or parts off it. I’d want the valve covers too.

Number on the intake is: 3997771 which seems to be a 1973 intake. It has a pad on the passenger side which I assume is for the divorced choke? So I’d need to find a carb then and the associated mechanism?
Posted via Mobile Device

hi,there should be a flat pad about the middle between the small primary front hole and the large secondary hole in the intake an inch or so down from where the carb sits.there will be a bolt hole in that pad to attach the choke bi-metal spring and cover.you'll need a carb around the same year model in order to get the choke parts that will work.there will be back by the distributor hole,a set of numbers cast there like C 25 3 .. MARCH 25 1973 .That will tell you the year for sure.as long as there's a $150.00 worth of parts,that'll work but you still need a carb.

[Bbarbeau]

Yup, there’s a flat pad there!

What about the EGR piece, can that be blocked off? If I get the entire block I guess it would have all the parts.

Going to check on a carb tomorrow.

Originally Posted by mr.mud1

hi,there should be a flat pad about the middle between the small primary front hole and the large secondary hole in the intake an inch or so down from where the carb sits.there will be a bolt hole in that pad to attach the choke bi-metal spring and cover.you'll need a carb around the same year model in order to get the choke parts that will work.there will be back by the distributor hole,a set of numbers cast there like C 25 3 .. MARCH 25 1973 .That will tell you the year for sure.as long as there's a $150.00 worth of parts,that'll work but you still need a carb.

Posted via Mobile Device

[mr.mud1]

Originally Posted by Bbarbeau

Thanks - this is for a 72, sorry.

I found another intake that’s in a 69 GM. It’s got an EGR valve, no carb but I think the air cleaner may be available. The whole engine for $150 or parts off it. I’d want the valve covers too.

Number on the intake is: 3997771 which seems to be a 1973 intake. It has a pad on the passenger side which I assume is for the divorced choke? So I’d need to find a carb then and the associated mechanism?
Posted via Mobile Device

you can block off the hole in the manifold where the EGR valve bolts on,not the best looking setup but it will work,here again if all you're getting is valve covers and an intake manifold,it's really not a bargain at $150.00 if you still have to hunt a carb but maybe there's enough parts there to make it worth your while?

[Bbarbeau]

Makes sense, thanks. I think he’d sell the parts separately too, his starting thing was take the engine for $150. So if that block is a ‘69 somehow EGR was added to it?

Originally Posted by mr.mud1

you can block off the hole in the manifold where the EGR valve bolts on,not the best looking setup but it will work,here again if all you're getting is valve covers and an intake manifold,it's really not a bargain at $150.00 if you still have to hunt a carb but maybe there's enough parts there to make it worth your while?

Posted via Mobile Device

[Bbarbeau]

Having thought about this slightly more, I don’t think the truck I saw with that engine yesterday was a 69 at all but is actually a 72. I’ll look at the SPID next time but the interior definitely seems to have the 72 scrollwork.

Is it possible that there were 72’s that actually had EGR? I don’t really care that much about EGR I should say, it’s just interesting if this one had it.

[geezer#99]

You should post a pic of the flat pad before you buy it.
Hot air choke intakes had an egr and a different pad.
Your stock divorced choke carb won’t work with that.
A pic could help save some money.
Don’t get confused on what year truck a motor was in. Motors and parts have all been swapped.

That motor also has a long water pump. So is from 73 onwards.

[Bbarbeau]

Thanks - this is not it but it's exactly the same pad etc (apologies for blurry photo, actually from the previous one I was looking at). I've seen pics of another style of pad that is more open.

I am finding more local wreckers that have things so I think I've got options too.

Originally Posted by geezer#99

You should post a pic of the flat pad before you buy it.
Hot air choke intakes had an egr and a different pad.
Your stock divorced choke carb won’t work with that.
A pic could help save some money.
Don’t get confused on what year truck a motor was in. Motors and parts have all been swapped.

That motor also has a long water pump. So is from 73 onwards.

[Bbarbeau]

Made a trip to a wrecker today and came away with a few things. I think this will work but tell me if I'm wrong! No EGR at any rate.

Carb is rough but hopefully will cleanup okay and I'm thinking rebuilding it will be interesting.

[mr.mud1]

Originally Posted by Bbarbeau

Made a trip to a wrecker today and came away with a few things. I think this will work but tell me if I'm wrong! No EGR at any rate.

Carb is rough but hopefully will cleanup okay and I'm thinking rebuilding it will be interesting.

carb is very rough,i hope you didn't pay much for it?have you got someone to rebuild it?you can mail it to me in Nova Scotia if you don't.here's a picture of the carb setup on my 1967 327 impala wagon.

[cj847]

If I had seen this earlier I would have tried to talk you out of the swap. With that said, I will just caution that most quadrajets have been rebuilt multiple times, and at least 2 of those times was by someone who didn't know what they were doing. Yes, a GOOD quadrajet is a GREAT carb, but a bad one is bad and there are a limited number of people who can figure out what is wrong with one that has been assembled with mixed parts from several versions.

[Steeveedee]

Soak that manifold in Evap-O-Rust, it'll come out purdy. Most parts stores have it for cheap. That carb looks pretty rugged. Are there any threads left where the fuel filter nut mounts? It looks "smooth". You'll need to find a nut and then JB weld it in if the threads are stripped, which is very common on Q-Jets. What is the part number? Hopefully it is a new enough unit that you don't have to worry about sealing the well plugs up.

Also- how are the threads on the heater nipple hole?

[Bbarbeau]

Thanks

Carb might not look quite as bad as it does in these pics but it’s definitely tired. Will see if I can find that to soak it in, haven’t seen that around here but haven’t looked either.

Threads are fine on both actually, I took the old heater nipple out of that tonight so it’s okay.

Number on the carb is 17058213 I think - 1982?

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Soak that manifold in Evap-O-Rust, it'll come out purdy. Most parts stores have it for cheap. That carb looks pretty rugged. Are there any threads left where the fuel filter nut mounts? It looks "smooth". You'll need to find a nut and then JB weld it in if the threads are stripped, which is very common on Q-Jets. What is the part number? Hopefully it is a new enough unit that you don't have to worry about sealing the well plugs up.

Also- how are the threads on the heater nipple hole?

[Bbarbeau]

Cool, thanks. That’s a very clean install.

I was thinking I would buy Cliff Riggle’s book and do the rebuild myself actually but certainly will connect with you on that if I don’t do that.

It was $50 so maybe a bit much in hindsight but rebuilding may be interesting just itself.

Originally Posted by mr.mud1

carb is very rough,i hope you didn't pay much for it?have you got someone to rebuild it?you can mail it to me in Nova Scotia if you don't.here's a picture of the carb setup on my 1967 327 impala wagon.

[Bbarbeau]

Yes, I hear you. I’m not entirely happy with how the current set up works either to be honest, let alone how it looks! But it does need to function exactly right or I won’t have any patience for that. I had some work done on a 4GC in Toronto about ten years back and they did a great job but I don’t think anyone local to me would be up for it.

Originally Posted by cj847

If I had seen this earlier I would have tried to talk you out of the swap. With that said, I will just caution that most quadrajets have been rebuilt multiple times, and at least 2 of those times was by someone who didn't know what they were doing. Yes, a GOOD quadrajet is a GREAT carb, but a bad one is bad and there are a limited number of people who can figure out what is wrong with one that has been assembled with mixed parts from several versions.

[Bbarbeau]

So maybe what I bought today was just a test because I just got this nice set from Cliff off a 72 Blazer. Pretty much everything I needed and pretty. I can clean up the other stuff I got and resell I guess.

[mr.mud1]

Originally Posted by Bbarbeau

So maybe what I bought today was just a test because I just got this nice set from Cliff off a 72 Blazer. Pretty much everything I needed and pretty. I can clean up the other stuff I got and resell I guess.

that looks much more promising.princess auto has evap-o-rust if you are close to one and i think i saw it at Canadian Tire.the 8 in the ugly carb number 17058213 is the year.1978