1972 Suburban 4X4 3/4 Ton K20 "The Beast"

[LockDoc]

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Glad you got it dissembled without breaking anything.

Maybe you already know this but there are 2 different windshield rubber seals for the stainless trim. Deep and shallow. Just make sure you get the correct one for the trim you have.

LockDoc

[nsiti]

Leon, thanks for the head's up on the seal. I purchased a 71-72 Deluxe Trim equipped version (P-WCR685A) from GMC Paul's. Does that sound correct?

Also, another question, the lower part of the windshield glass has delaminated over time. Is that something that a professional can address/fix? Or do we just live with the patina

Regards,
Nick

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by nsiti

Leon, thanks for the head's up on the seal. I purchased a 71-72 Deluxe Trim equipped version (P-WCR685A) from GMC Paul's. Does that sound correct?

Also, another question, the lower part of the windshield glass has delaminated over time. Is that something that a professional can address/fix? Or do we just live with the patina

Regards,
Nick

Yes, that sounds correct.

To the best of my knowledge I don't think the delamination is repairable but you never know in this day and age. People do some amazing things....

LockDoc

[nsiti]

Metal work to fix rusted areas around the windshield frame (both internal and external) commenced.

[nsiti]

A few more photos of the rust repair around the windshield frame.

[nsiti]

Bodywork and rust repair continues...

[nsiti]

Front cowl area, floorpan, rear barn doors, and window frames all needed some TLC

[nsiti]

Metalwork continues, chasing down some of the less obvious rusted areas.

[nsiti]

Some more photos for your viewing pleasure!

[BAD1916]

Great job on the rust repair. Looks like you’re moving right along!

[nsiti]

Metalwork and rust repair of the body is nearly finished (excluding some small imperfections) and we've prepped for filling. Featheredge and filler work to follow.

[nsiti]

I have a question or two maybe some of you can share your opinion on. The next daunting task is to remove the rear wooden floor, which has rotted, especially around the edges. The metal below has also disintegrated and will need to be repaired.

I understand from researching the matter that the wooden floor can be removed in two pieces, one large and one small (the front passenger side corner). Any tricks to ease the removal?

Once out I'm thinking to replicate the floor using a marine grade plywood, and epoxy coat it.

My dilemma afterwards is, do I cover the floor with insulation and carpeting, or put some veneer on top and leave the wood exposed (for aesthetic purposes)?

Cheers,
Nick

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by nsiti

I have a question or two maybe some of you can share your opinion on. The next daunting task is to remove the rear wooden floor, which has rotted, especially around the edges. The metal below has also disintegrated and will need to be repaired.

I understand from researching the matter that the wooden floor can be removed in two pieces, one large and one small (the front passenger side corner). Any tricks to ease the removal?

Once out I'm thinking to replicate the floor using a marine grade plywood, and epoxy coat it.

My dilemma afterwards is, do I cover the floor with insulation and carpeting, or put some veneer on top and leave the wood exposed (for aesthetic purposes)?

Cheers,
Nick

I haven't had to replace any wood floors. I know there are posts on it but I think most of them are buried in build threads. Maybe someone that follows the Suburban build threads will remember.

LockDoc

[nsiti]

Thanks Leon, I took your advice and found the following thread (posts):

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...698377&page=20

Page 20 (see post #489 - #496 for removal), through page 23 (for replacement).

[BAD1916]

First off, your suburban is coming out great and you’re making amazing progress..

“My dilemma afterwards is, do I cover the floor with insulation and carpeting, or put some veneer on top and leave the wood exposed (for aesthetic purposes)?”

Personally I think the exposed wood would look sexy. However if you plan on using it to haul anything I’m not sure about leaving it uncovered. If it has a third row even people getting in and out would mark it up.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by nsiti

Thanks Leon, I took your advice and found the following thread (posts):

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...698377&page=20

Page 20 (see post #489 - #496 for removal), through page 23 (for replacement).

Good deal!

LockDoc

[nsiti]

Originally Posted by BAD1916

First off, your suburban is coming out great and you’re making amazing progress..

“My dilemma afterwards is, do I cover the floor with insulation and carpeting, or put some veneer on top and leave the wood exposed (for aesthetic purposes)?”

Personally I think the exposed wood would look sexy. However if you plan on using it to haul anything I’m not sure about leaving it uncovered. If it has a third row even people getting in and out would mark it up.

Thank you! Good point about the potential for wear and tear. I'm inevitably going to use the space to move things and you're right that veneered wood would get roughed up.

[nsiti]

Some photos of the minor progress made since my last update. The summer was slow due to lots of other obligations.

The upper metal decor trim has been removed revealing the expected rusted and broken clips. My understanding is that the metal strips are not being reproduced, which means that they'll need some TLC to make them look nice again. Any advice as to where I can source clips to reattach them? Also, I assume the screws (visible in the photos) used to attach some some of the strips to the body are not original?

Thanks in advance for your help and suggestions!

Nick

[LockDoc]

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My Suburban did not have the trim so I'm not much help on that.

You might try these suppliers.

https://www.classicindustries.com/sh...ips-fasteners/

https://www.auveco.com/moulding-clips-retainers

You have to scroll through the plastic ones to find the metal ones.....

A lot of them will interchange.

LockDoc

[nsiti]

Leon, thanks for the links, and good point on the interchangeability. From my initial search the molding clips are going to be a challenge. I'm still researching the matter and will post my findings when I figure out which ones work.

In the meantime, a coat of epoxy primer was applied, in preparation for a coat of surfacer, and body work.

[LockDoc]

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Looking good! At least you aren't getting rain like we are here. No painting for me ....

LockDoc

[allen71]

I have a 1971 K10 (1/2 ton) 4x4 suburban. I've had it since ordered from the factory. Your work is very impressive!
Where are you located? I'm in Southern California.
I have many questions but if possible I'd like to see your vehicle and talk in person about it and the work you've done to it.
Allen

[nsiti]

Hi Allen, thanks for the kind words.

I love reading that you've owned your Suburban for 52 years! And that you ordered it from the factory to boot.

I'm located in New York, which is unfortunately far from you. But I'm happy to chat and will send you a PM with my phone number. Happy to help in any way I can.

Adding a little color to my restoration, I've teamed up with a friend/colleague who specializes in restoring Jeep Willys and is generally an expert on repair and maintenance 4x4 vehicles (he also helped me refresh my classic Ford Bronco). I spent between 6 and 12 months (and still going) researching the specifications for the build, including the overall plan, parts and materials. My buddy is responsible for the workmanship and mechanicals. So far so good. I estimate we are at about the 20-25% mark.

Kind regards,
Nick

[allen71]

Nick,
For some reason PM doesn't work for me on this site.
Can you email me at aseengel@ca.rr.com?
Allen

[nsiti]

Starting the dreaded rear wooden bed removal and replacement process.

Removed the tank which will be replaced by a 40 gallon w/skidplate purchased from Aero Tank in CA. That's gonna be (insert expletive) expensive to fill, but will give a great range.