47-55.1 1951 GMC Floor High Hump

[leegreen]

Your '52 shift linkage bolts to bellhousing or the clutch linkage does?
The '52 3 speed column linkage should work with any 3 speed trans, give a or take a little adjustment to the rod lengths

the 64 292 bell should bolt to any gm manual trans from a truck, or from a car with a centering ring since the car trans has smaller flange circle

The '52 clutch is setup differently, but you should be able to take the '64 clutch linkage including the frame bracket and transplant it to the '52 frame, weld an arm onto it and make up a rod to connect to the '52 pedal.

the '64 clutch linkage looks like this

weld on a new arm like shown

the '52 like this (or similar, i think this is a car)

make a longer rod to connect to the new arm you welded to the 64 linkage

I could be wrong but this is what I remember being the usual way to stick a newer engine, usually a 283 v8 into an AD. There must be pictures somewhere of old school open driveline swaps keeping AD clutch pedal

3.08 seems like tall gears for a '64 half ton.
Don't consider swapping the '64 frame under the AD, it wont fit and an s10 would be a way better swap these days. Stick with your plan to upgrade motor and some maintenance, get it on the road again.

[dsraven]

yeah, good plan. since LG has an AD he knows more about what fits and what doesn't. swapping in some new power and a better diff should get it on the road faster. do think about upgrading to a dual circuit brake master cyl, new brake flex hoses all around and possibly a 12V electrical system, especially if doing a longer road trip, like Edmonton. also, install some decent seat belts because if it has any in t they are probably dry rotted and won't likely be safe.

[mr48chev]

Here we go again.

You need a cast iron V8 (or the bellhousing that came with the 292 bellhousing to go with the 292. AS long as that bellhousing is a manual linkage and not a hydraulic linkage. You may need a 55/59 V8 bellhousing.

You take the forged clutch fork out of the stock bellhousing and put it in the V8 bellhousing. That lets you use all stock clutch linkage.

The big rub is that the 47/54 crossmember under the bellhousing is different than the 54 and later bellhousings and you either have to modify the crossmember a bit for the mounts to fit or you have to find a 54 crossmember and swap. When I bought my 48 in 1973 it had a 194 in it with a V8 bellhousing and the stock closed drive train. They had modified the crossmember with a torch and a stick welder and it wan't pretty but held up with the 194, then the 283 that I put in it. I've got a 54 frame under the truck now because my original 48 frame had a big twist in the back from the guy who welded in my rear suspension welding up a whole side at one shot without letting it cool.

These weld on axle seats are designed to locate an open drive axle in the correct spot and at the correct stock height. The cost has doubled in the past year but my guess is that one can take some 1-1/2 thick wall rectangular tubing (real thick) and fab thier own fairly easily. Especially if you have the old closed driveshaft axle there to measure off and design with. https://www.classicparts.com/1947-54...ctinfo/93-317/

The hardest part of the swap is going to be figuring out exactly what you have to do to modify the crossemember.

I've got a 51 or so GMC long bed 1/2 ton frame for my stretch cab. you can see the middle crossmeber. I am thinking that when I pull the 250 and 3 speed out of the old frame I'll take a piece of cardboard and trace the shape of the 54 crossmeber and see what it takes to transfer that shape to the new frame.



I'm going to use the rear springs out of a mini van that I have that is currently a storage shed with wheels. It's time for it to go down the road to the scrap yard after i take what I have stashed in it out.

[dsraven]

mr48, since you have a wealth of info on the AD trucks, and what it takes to do this or that, you should think about putting together a couple of "how to do a xxx on an AD truck" threads. of course pics would be really nice for those, and you always seem to come up with some hands on pics, so you seem to always have an answer for those who get stumped or just need some answers. a few links to what new parts look like, these would auto generate the newest prices since they would be managed by that site. point form would work and the member doing the work could systematically work their way through line by line.

[dsraven]

mr48, have you found a way to remove that trans crossmember from the stock frame without cutting it?
if removing the crossmember for replacement I reccomend to brace the frame in front or behind so it doesn't "spring" and cause stress on the cab mounts/cab floor if the cab is still gonna be in place during the procedure. it guarantees the new member will keep the frame at the correct width as well as the doors will open and close just like they used to-properly or not. haha.

[dsraven]

on a couple of task force frames I have done the trans crossmember was impossible to get out after getting rid of the rivets. I ended up doing a zip disc cut in the middle. it could easily be welded back together after if need be, just add the thickness of the zip disc cut ( I wrote that on the old cross member so it could be done by anyone who needed it. I went a different route and it wasn't required)

[cff]

Mr48chev thank you

[leegreen]

go with what 48chev said

In case you have not noticed, the c10 frames are going for silly money locally, so if you are cutting that one up and only planning on using the rear axle, you can probably sell it intact for a lot more than a rear axle alone will cost you. And since you already have to weld mounts onto the axle you have it opens the doors to a lot more and newer choices.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by dsraven

mr48, have you found a way to remove that trans crossmember from the stock frame without cutting it?
if removing the crossmember for replacement I reccomend to brace the frame in front or behind so it doesn't "spring" and cause stress on the cab mounts/cab floor if the cab is still gonna be in place during the procedure. it guarantees the new member will keep the frame at the correct width as well as the doors will open and close just like they used to-properly or not. haha.

My old cab is pretty well shot, If I don't cut it up I'll put the door post tag from my orange 51 cab with it plus the paperwork and advertise it and the cowl off the 51 as a rat rod building project for an honest price. I'll probably lift that cab off the 54 frame at any rate if I take take the crossmember out of it. The cab has some real issues going on though. The only reason that I haven't take it apart is that it is easier to keep all the pieces together until I need the pieces. I had the nose off years ago and it almost got stolen from where it was stored. As soon as I get my new cab and other pieces in the advanced mock up stage I am going to have a bunch of pieces up for grabs. First offered here on this board for very low prices and if you are under 25 and scrounging for parts on a low budget for your own build lower yet. The 54 frame might get the MII crossmember I have out back, a rear spring swap and a C notch and set up as a roller and sold. It's a nice frame except that with the spring setup I have and as low as it is the axle pounded on the drivers side frame rail until the rail cracked and my buddy and I did a maybe not perfect repair job in his driveway. That corner is probably not square with the rest of the frame.

Gotta go take some photos before it gets dark.

[dsraven]

LG makes another good point from a budgetary standpoint. the later frames are sought after so maybe you are better off selling that for cash and then using that cash to buy a different diff and installing that instead. that way you also don't have a bunch of other stuff laying around. any diff can have the axles drilled for the bolt pattern you want. and whatever axle you use will need work removing the spring pads etc. a ford 8.8 would also work, explorers are quite common and may have the width you need. there is a regular style yoke available for them too. yes, offset center, but thats not an issue if the driveline angles are matched up correctly. an S10 4x4 would keep it all GM. lots of options but it's your build so you gotta look at the advice, weigh out the options and go from there.

[mr48chev]

An out of focus shot of my clutch linkage and A different fork than I remember having with tonight's back yard sunset thrown in as a bonus.

That's not the Forged early fork but has close to the same shape. I'll try to clean things up and get a better shot tomorrow when I am out rooting around for the part I said I had.

[cff]

The rear end that is in my 64 is out of a 72. Hence the 3.08 gears. It is a 5 stud axle, but I have 66 rear end with 4.10's and 6 stud axles. So I'll swap axles.
By the way, I cut out the rear engine mount out and cut the front engine mount down and will plate it in. This enabled me to put the 292 into it with a turbo 350. And if a 350 fits then a 700R will too. This gave me tons of clearance for the fan, but I think I'll still put in an electric fan to pull more air. I don't want any overheating problems ever. I'll post pics later.

[cff]

Here's some pics.

[cff]

First one is with the old front engine cross member cut out to fit the 292. Next two are the front and rear view with the piece I bent up and welded in to that spot. Last is with the 292 in place. Also have a 700r4 connected to it that didn't require me having to cut the firewall or floorboard out.

[cff]

Plus I removed the old cross member at the back of the engine.

[dsraven]

will you have any bracing from the engine to the trans area, like the older 4x4 trucks had? otherwise there is a long stretch between the front and raer mounts so it may overstress the aluminum bellhousing. on some of the older vehicles they used a cast aluminum inspection cover under the torque converter which had spots for brace rods to bolt on. the other end of the rod bolted to the engine. this helped support the 2 parts better since, if you look at how the two parts bolt together, the engine and trans are really only bolted together from about 1/2 way up the "circle" of the bellhousing so that leaves the whole bottom half open to allow things to try and open up more with stress. GM wouldn't have installed the braces if they didn't think they needed to
here is a link to an ebay page with a cover pic. dunno how long the link will be good for though

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVROLET-G...edirect=mobile

[dsraven]

I think some S10's also used the idea, maybe joedoh can comment since he has seen every configuration of S10 known to man.

[cff]

I was thinking the engine will become kind of a cross member when bolted up, although it won't be as solid with the rubber in the mounts. My 66 just has a 540 and turbo 400and just has the engine and tranny mounts, but being a 66 that's a little different frame. And now in the 51 it is just a 292, so no huge power or torque, so I thought it would be ok. I don't know, maybe I do need some bracing at the back of the engine. It would be easy to add another cross member.

[leegreen]

If you are using the side mounts on the 292 and the tailshaft mount on 700r4 that should be about what the 700 r4 would have for support from factory?

if you were to swap in a 700r4, but use the original AD frame front engine mounts plus tail housing mount then I think you need to either work out a way to support the bellhousing area with a cross member or add some bracing between eng and trans. Do any 292/250 blocks still have the boss cast in for front engine mounts?


S10s with T5s use 1/2" rods bracing tailhousing to bellhousing and then further forward to engine mounts. Camaro and Mustang T5s did not use these rods. Not sure what Jeep did. I have a 250 6 and T5 mounted with side mounts plus tailhousing and have so far left off any support rods. Looking around at T5 swaps no-one seems to use them and some people report many thousands of miles without a problem. As the price of T5s creeps upwards I'm considering the value of adding these supports....I have not seen a chance to buy a T5 for cheap for a few years

[cff]

Yeah no I will be using the side mounts on the 292. No provision for front mounting on the 292.