67 C20 with 283 w/3 speed on the floor keeps killing starters.

[tim_mc]

I have long tube headers and noticed increased dragging and hard starts due to heat soak with my second Delco Remy OEM-style reman starter, so this time I installed a PowerMaster 9112 a week or two ago. Made in USA. It's half the weight, smaller size for more air flow, and has twice the power of the OEM starter. Love it. It came with two bolts and shims (didn't need the shims). I did have to clock the solenoid one position to clear the block as it was shipped in the straight-up position. The higher torque fires up my SBC more quickly and my heat soak issues are gone.

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by 54blackhornet

DB Electric starters are not rebuilt. I have bought many and they are very good and excellent customer support. If your block is drilled they have one to fit. Easy installation compared to the original heavy beast. They also included the proper bolts which are knurled and a shim for alignment.

I had two DB starters first one just stopped the warranty replacement the bendix went the starter would spin but not turn over the motor . I may have gotten two bad ones or the the 496 was to much for it . I like the Powermaster brand as it’s made here in the US yes it’s more money but not ever having an issue is worth it .

Not knocking DB just my experience with them

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by tim_mc

I have long tube headers and noticed increased dragging and hard starts due to heat soak with my second Delco Remy OEM-style reman starter, so this time I installed a PowerMaster 9112 a week or two ago. Made in USA. It's half the weight, smaller size for more air flow, and has twice the power of the OEM starter. Love it. It came with two bolts and shims (didn't need the shims). I did have to clock the solenoid one position to clear the block as it was shipped in the straight-up position. The higher torque fires up my SBC more quickly and my heat soak issues are gone.

I spun mine 180 degrees or so putting the solenoid at the bottom and away from the headers . Also makes it much easier to install

[tim_mc]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

I spun mine 180 degrees or so putting the solenoid at the bottom and away from the headers . Also makes it much easier to install

Good idea Mark - I wish I would have thought of that. Oh well - it's installed and I shouldn't have to worry about starts for a while.

[BigTopGT]

Quick update:

Went out to yank the starter and found the main power wire broken.

Had to pick up a replacement wire, since the existing wire is old, stiff, and covered in oil (intake leaks like a bastard) and I'll report back to see if that's the actual issue.

Even if it DOES solve the issue, I think I'm going to pull it to check for block mounting options to run a mini with a heat shield. (maybe I'll wrap the header, too)

Thanks for all the help, fellas!

[BigTopGT]

Originally Posted by BigTopGT

Quick update:

Went out to yank the starter and found the main power wire broken.

Had to pick up a replacement wire, since the existing wire is old, stiff, and covered in oil (intake leaks like a bastard) and I'll report back to see if that's the actual issue.

Even if it DOES solve the issue, I think I'm going to pull it to check for block mounting options to run a mini with a heat shield. (maybe I'll wrap the header, too)

Thanks for all the help, fellas!

Aaannnddd it wasn't the broken wire.

I've got a stock warranty replacement for now, but when this one dies, I'll step up to a new, smaller unit.

What a pain...

[dmjlambert]

You could probably stick just about any old piece of metal between the exhaust and starter to make a heat shield, just bolt or clamp it on there or use baling wire to hold it in place. A coffee can treated with some BBQ high heat spray paint or exhaust manifold paint brushed on from a can so it lasts a few years would probably be pretty good. I made a heat shield for my Mazda Tribute and it worked great. Roof flashing also works great, it is particularly good because it's galvanized. If not abused the starter should last a very long time.

[MS66]

Originally Posted by BigTopGT

Aaannnddd it wasn't the broken wire.

I've got a stock warranty replacement for now, but when this one dies, I'll step up to a new, smaller unit.

What a pain...

Are you saying you replaced the starter since your last broken battery cable post on the 8th? Did you see the three mounting holes in the block when you had the starter off?
Might as wwell put a heat shield on it now.... or
Go with a Powermaster and never look back. But I would still put a heat shield on the header, or, over the starter to protect the investment. Stuff ain't cheap.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Power...vy,229562.html

[72c20customcamper]

I’ve always had problems with my 72every starter was too far away from the flexplate . I had been shimming the outside bolt to swing it into the ring gear . This time after putting in the new flexplate I decided to end it once and for all . I milled the mount on the starter and kept putting it in and checking my clearance. I got it to .025 without shims but I put a shim in to bring it to .030 . Powermaster calls for between .020 -.035