Lurker OrrieG Progress Pics

[Berg]

It would be cool if you could fab up some sort of linkage to release both tailgate latches with one handle. Almost like the twist handles or lever action handles we got on our firetrucks to mount on the inside of the tailgate to pull the tabs open. I'm not quite sure how someone would go about fabbing up something like that on a gate without much of an inner structure to hold the guts though... It would have to be one hell of a strong, small handle.

[OrrieG]

Berg - thanks for the comments, I converted my own to twin stick here is a link to the detailed process, much less than $185. Took about 3 hours including head scratching and photos, only cost was a piece of flat bar I had laying around. here are some photos to wet your appitite!

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=360447

On the tailgate, I had a lever and latch set up from a later model I was going to mount on the inside, but decided to go with the pulls to keep it simple. Right now I am focusing on getting it on the road, I can always change it later if it turns out to be a problem or not strong enough for daily use. I have an extra tailgate I am keeping.

[Kabwe]

Man OrrieG you have been getting things done. I need to get busy, thanks for making me feel like a slacker.

[Green 1959]

Originally Posted by Kabwe

Man OrrieG you have been getting things done. I need to get busy, thanks for making me feel like a slacker.

Indeed, he is the man. Lots of great ideas on this build, keep em coming!!!

[OrrieG]

Thanks Green and Bam, seems like I am just slogging along. Bam I especially appreciate your comment, coming from a craftsman like yourself. Now get back out to the garage.....8^))

[Walts_restoration]

what did you change to fit the wider springs? Im currently in a debate between using the stock 55 frame or using a 73-87 style frame with body mount brackets that bolt right to the 73-87 frame. Just wondering if you had any post swap thats that might help influence my decision. I will probably be doing a 4" lift, crossover steering, rear mounted blazer tank, and some form of efi.

Also wondering your thoughts on the frame mounted brakes, seeing as you kept them Ill assume there is no problem having them there. I dont plan on burying this truck in the mud, but I do like going on trails. If I do go that route, ill probably build some sort of shield for them. My axles will likely end up being 3/4 tons with the rear 14b ff converted to discs.

http://www.e-zchassisswaps.com/1955.htm

[OrrieG]

I used the stock 59 1/2 ton springs, they bolted up to the 74 K10 axles ok. 73-85 1/2 and 3/4 ton GM trucks have the same spring width. I drove it as a DD and off road for 15 years without any problems. In 59 the 3/4 ton trucks had thicker frame metal and was a little wider section. If you are not concerned with load capacity and just want the 3/4 ton axles it should not be a problem.

If you mean the frame mounted brake lines, again I ran the same basic configuration as shown in my thread, just upgraded to braided SS lines this time. I've been thru some pretty knarly stuff (poor desert trails, logging roads, old jeep trails, forded streams) and never had a problem with things catching. If you notice everything is tucked up above the bottom frame except for the transfer case and drive lines of course. The 203 is cast iron and sits much higher that the axle center housings, I use them a as gauge for clearance issues. And carry a high lift jack in case I get in a bind.

I would look at some the the build threads that used 73-87 frames for TF, even the 2wd. It is much more than the body brackets. The biggest is that the frame is wider and runs thru the TF step area, or gets lifted really high. I believe the bed floor needs lifted to to clean the rise over the rear axles. And you have to deal with the radiator support/front clip and front bumper mounting. Also remember that the axle width can push the tires out side of the fenders. I run skinny tires on stock steel rims so its not an issue with mine.

[_Ogre]

orrieg
just finished your build thread, nice work. very nice.

if your still looking at bed bolt kits, check out boltdepot.com
i bought all stainless, boxes of 100 for less than the truck shops wanted for 68 steel bolts.

i bought my 59 panel in 76, too bad i didn't keep it up like you kept yours up

[OrrieG]

Thanks for the tip. I may be going with stainless, my SO offered some good input on her vision of the bed and reminded me that I've put in to much work to start going cheeeeep now. Only reason its in as good of shape as it is, is because it was a good AZ truck to start with and I drove it daily, trying to keep up with the little rust issues as I went. When I did tear it down and it sat, it was inside the garage, in our high desert climate.

[gmjim4x4]

I am new on this forum and have been looking around for someone who is doing something similier to my build. I have a 57 chevy 3100 that i am changing to 4x4 with 1979 dana 44 front, 12 bolt corporate, NP 205 and SM 465. I have a similier power steering setup as you installed. I know that you showed the power steering 3 or 4 years ago, but I am trying to figure out how to stop that travel from going to far when you turn right and stop it from coming up and rubbing the tire on the turning arm. You mentioned a bolt to stop the travel. Do you have some pics of where this is on the power steering or what you fabricated? You have done some awesome work on your 58. Congratulations! Any help would be appreciated. Jim

[1985-GMC]

I didn't go back through to find it but this is probably what your looking for.

[gmjim4x4]

That is exactly what I am looking for. Appreciate the heads up. thanks again.

[OrrieG]

Thanks for posting 1985-gmc, that's the bolt I was talking about. On mine someone spot welded the lock nut to the spindle and bolt, I plan on just welding a spacer on to the bolt head when I get my tires and wheels figured out.

[1985-GMC]

Mine are all welded also, I think they did it at the factory once they got it adjusted to spec.

[Kim57]

That looks real nice.
Kim

[OrrieG]

Got the rest of the tailgate cable done. Ended up trying three different approachs. Decided to just weld in a support on the gate and rework the upper bracket if the cables ever stretch. Here is a teaser shot, I want to clean up the welds before posting more. My welder could not get a good ground and its more blog and splatter than nice running beads!

[Daze57]

looks v v nice

[drivea55]

very nice man!!!

[lt155ruck]

Great work

[72Blazerock]

I've been doing some lurking of my own on your build thread and collecting parts for my own build. I have a 56 3100 my dad gave me in high school that has 72blazer 4x4 running gear and a '69 307 v8. I now have a 56 parts truck as well. You've inspired me to begin, but I'm a bit nervous cause I don't have the level of fabrication skill you obviously have. I'm more of a "buy the kit and bolt it to the frame" type of builder. I'll have to farm out some stuff like brake lines, welding, wiring and body work. My first decision is whether to do a front spring shackle reversal with aftermarket springs vs. just rearching the stock springs and leaving the hangers stock. I have a CPP power brake kit and will be mounting the power steering box just like you did, but plan to use a 2wd box for crossover steering. I'll have about a 6in lift with 35in tires and plan to drive it daily. I'm moving the gas tank to under the bed.
I live in Pocatello and understand you might know some guys here in the hot rod building circles who might be a source of info about how and where to get things done. I hope it's ok to ask you questions on occasion as well. Thanks for posting such good pics of your build. That alone will be a great help.
Thanks,
Leon (72Blazerock)
Posted via Mobile Device

[OrrieG]

72Blazerock - Do not be afraid to learn how to weld, do brake lines, or anything else for that matter. I have an old fender that I use to tune up my body welding. Just drilled holes, cut seams and practiced. Same with the brake and fuel lines, bought an extra piece and practised. Found out I need to buy a better tube bender. Before this project I had never flared a line. Got an old Imperial kit at a garage sale and again practiced. With the lift the cross over steering will be better. You might look at using a Jeep box, they are the mirror image of a GM unit and mount on the inside of the frame in front of the crossmember, eliminate tire/box rubbing.

As far as eastern ID members look here, scroll down and you will see threads from ID guys. http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...splay.php?f=55

[OrrieG]

Snowed and rained this weekend so I got some garage time. Got out the spare Cady column and figured out that the telescope is easy to defeat. For grins tried the stock 59 steering wheel and it fits, is even the same diameter where it meets the column (got to love GM engineers). Only problem is it is about 2.5 -3" to deep. Did some research and 48-56 truck and auto wheels are relatively flat so the search is on for a donor.

Also did some head scratching on the gas tank door. In the pic the red square is 5" x 5", green circle is 4". Any one have experience with donar vehicles with smaller gas doors? All the ones I see on cars and trucks in the parking lots look huge. Going to get one with inside remote cable lock.

Finally, stripped the hood, lower front fender closure and sanded the cowl grille. Feels like some progress.

[_Ogre]

orrieg
when i bought my truk trunk they opened the doors and cut through the roof and floor
and gave me half of a 90 yew yorker, so the gas door was an added bonus
the gas door is about 4.5'' round with remote cable entry, actually two remote cables.
one for trunk entry and a long one that goes up front.
metal frame and plastic inner housing

the only thing i recommend is that you mount it a little higher, mine is a little slow filling due to the straight pipe thru the frame and little rise to the neck.

[_Ogre]

orrieg: measured the new yorker gas door. 6 inches, my bad

[OrrieG]

Thank Orge, I will have the same issue with a flat fill, the FS spear limits how high I can go. maybe I can carry a wood block to drive the rear tire up on to get some slope!