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#1 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Toano, VA
Posts: 874
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Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
Driver's side door is painted on the interior side, next I need to POR15 the skin patch I did, then the outside surface. But before all of that I need to throw some intentional wear on this door. Once it fully cures Ill get to it and then it is next in line to be cleared. Happy to be close!
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"Sometimes I do serve as a good bad example. Glad to be of service." My Build Thread (1967 C10, lowered, EFI, daily truck): http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=830809 |
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#2 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Toano, VA
Posts: 874
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Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
I may have said in here before, but if not Ill just say - I really dislike the live oil pressure gauge and the fact it has oil running into the cab. Mainly because it makes a leak point that can get all over the back of the dash and on you. I tried 3 lines and could never get it to seal. So I began to look for some way to move to an electric gauge. Here's what I did:
1981 sender and gauge from LMC. Temp & ammeter gauge 'plate' from a 67-72. Removed face, needle from the 67-72 mechanical gauge Removed face, needle from the 1981 C10. The 67-72 gauge has a face plate and a mounting plate, I glued these together with SEM panel adhesive. I then took the 1981 gauge and tossed the face and needle, and began to line up the face, I had to drill a new hole about .5" up for the needle, and drilled two holes in the face to mount to the gauge. I used two sheet metal style screws to secure the face, they feel solid and are not visible in the cluster. The needle is the same style and fits on the new gauge, I did need to shorten it about .5". This is where I get to the mounting, if you use the temp & amm plate from another cluster, the 1981 gauge will fit 100% in the location of the temp gauge. Not drilling needed to mount the gauge, but you do need to drill two holes to mount the plate to the cluster. Wiring, I wired a 12v positive to the water temp hot side, the blue wire runs to the sender on the motor, and I currently have a ground to run out to a spot under the dash, but I believe using serrated washers and a nut would ground the gauge to the cluster on its own. I did have the engine running yesterday and it appears to read proper! It should be notated as well - board member MikeB and his posts on this gave me a great guide as to swap gauges. I just took it a bit further on reused my gauge face. I am planning on completing a video on this for YouTube, when done I will post here.
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"Sometimes I do serve as a good bad example. Glad to be of service." My Build Thread (1967 C10, lowered, EFI, daily truck): http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=830809 Last edited by KyleSeal; 04-01-2024 at 09:27 AM. |
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#3 |
Senior Member
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Location: Murray, Kentucky
Posts: 3,477
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Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
Nice work on the oil pressure gauge. I updated my ammeter but never even thought about the oil gauge.
Thanks, Rg
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Roger '68 Short step - https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=849675 '69 ('70?) 2wd Blazer '70 GMC Jimmy 2wd '73 Firebird - https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=853203 |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 663
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Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
Nice work Kyle!
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1987 V20 farm-hand rescue 1998 C2500 lot-rot rescue |
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#5 | |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Toano, VA
Posts: 874
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Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
Quote:
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"Sometimes I do serve as a good bad example. Glad to be of service." My Build Thread (1967 C10, lowered, EFI, daily truck): http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=830809 |
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#6 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Toano, VA
Posts: 874
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Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
Just about done with the fauxtina job on the door, I think this side looks far more honest than the passenger side. My 54 BelAir gave me a good idea of how this patina should look, so I went heavier on the black under the 503 green so I can softly break the surface of the green with a good 320 grit. Satin clear is to follow!
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"Sometimes I do serve as a good bad example. Glad to be of service." My Build Thread (1967 C10, lowered, EFI, daily truck): http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=830809 |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 95
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Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
Looks great! Are you doing the fauxtina with a spray can?
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#8 |
Senior Member
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Location: Toano, VA
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Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
Yes I am. I use a Duplicolor sandable primer which is labeled 'filler primer' in the red oxide. The 503 green is the custom mix cans that a local shop can fill.
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"Sometimes I do serve as a good bad example. Glad to be of service." My Build Thread (1967 C10, lowered, EFI, daily truck): http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=830809 |
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 95
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Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
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#10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Mocksville, NC
Posts: 1,747
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Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
You did a nice job on the door. I like how you got the worn paint where someone would have grabbed the window frame to close it. The layering of paint worked out really well too.
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Builds: Green Gus the 68 C10 ; Sullii the 72 1500 - Instagram: @dr.hewitt - C10 Concept/Development Photos: Master Thread |
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#11 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Toano, VA
Posts: 874
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Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
Yes. I do a satin clear so that I dont have any crazy glare from the sun off the painted panels. Dash was done the same way, and interior walls/ceiling. I use the two part aerosol cans from SprayMax
Thanks! I tried to incorporate as much 'natural' wear as possible. My 54's patina really kind of taught me a lot about natural wear and age. Its tough finding the right combo of abrasives and layering it give you the right age!
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"Sometimes I do serve as a good bad example. Glad to be of service." My Build Thread (1967 C10, lowered, EFI, daily truck): http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=830809 |
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#12 |
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Location: Berne IN
Posts: 3,229
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Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
Looking great!
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71 C10 72 K20 72 K10 Super Kirk |
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#13 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Toano, VA
Posts: 874
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Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
Driver side door is mounted after clear and most the innards are installed.
Only thing I am missing is the door control / relay. Apparently the 67 one is a single year production as well! I had no idea, so now the hunt is on for that door relay. Otherwise, all the guts are good, glass is in, speaker is in, and all the seals are in place. Im working that lower corner where I had to shrink the door skin, hope to have that painted tonight!
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"Sometimes I do serve as a good bad example. Glad to be of service." My Build Thread (1967 C10, lowered, EFI, daily truck): http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=830809 |
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#14 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Toano, VA
Posts: 874
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Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
Also seems my new radiator from LMC is leaking. I need to pressure test it to be sure but it appears its coming from the fins, with coolant on the ground and in the radiator support. Now I am shopping for a good aftermarket that wont cost north of $600..
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"Sometimes I do serve as a good bad example. Glad to be of service." My Build Thread (1967 C10, lowered, EFI, daily truck): http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=830809 |
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#15 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 663
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Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
Quote:
This is the way I'm going when I finally get to that end of my truck.
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1987 V20 farm-hand rescue 1998 C2500 lot-rot rescue |
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#16 | |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Toano, VA
Posts: 874
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Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
Quote:
__________________
"Sometimes I do serve as a good bad example. Glad to be of service." My Build Thread (1967 C10, lowered, EFI, daily truck): http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=830809 |
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#17 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Toano, VA
Posts: 874
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Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
Finishing up the paint for the door, stacking some colors on the lower door skin so I can do some intentional wear spots, maybe even add a few small dents to match the rest of the truck.
Still dealing with my brakes, hoping this weekend to really disassemble the rear brake system and pinpoint my issue. Its been ready to drive for weeks but no ability to stop. Frustrating!
__________________
"Sometimes I do serve as a good bad example. Glad to be of service." My Build Thread (1967 C10, lowered, EFI, daily truck): http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=830809 |
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#18 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Toano, VA
Posts: 874
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Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
Driver's door exterior is painted and patina'd so far to how I like, I may do more but I think it came out fair. Installed the door trim as well, its a 'NOS' piece but looks like it sat out for a while and got bumped around. Either way, I am just glad it isnt too new. Needs to dull out some, but it fits.
Not pictured, but I did seal the clips to the door with some 3M strip caulk I have to keep water from rushing into the door on heavy rain or when Im cleaning the truck. And of course I had to add the '67 GM Mark of Excellence logo to the door jamb!
__________________
"Sometimes I do serve as a good bad example. Glad to be of service." My Build Thread (1967 C10, lowered, EFI, daily truck): http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=830809 |
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#19 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Murray, Kentucky
Posts: 3,477
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Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
Nice work, now you have me thinking I should go the patina route.
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Roger '68 Short step - https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=849675 '69 ('70?) 2wd Blazer '70 GMC Jimmy 2wd '73 Firebird - https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=853203 |
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#20 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 95
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Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
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#21 |
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 663
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Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
Gotta scuff-up the GM tab though!
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1987 V20 farm-hand rescue 1998 C2500 lot-rot rescue |
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#22 |
Senior Member
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Location: Toano, VA
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Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
Right!
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"Sometimes I do serve as a good bad example. Glad to be of service." My Build Thread (1967 C10, lowered, EFI, daily truck): http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=830809 |
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#23 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: TN.
Posts: 8,073
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Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
I vote wheel cover.
I voted on IG also. ![]()
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________________________________________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________ 84 Chevy K-20 63 Impala (my high school car) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...Crew Cab Build |
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#24 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Phx, AZ
Posts: 236
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Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
Drivers door looks great!
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Scott 1970 C10 LWB-->SWB Under Construction https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=847605 2014 2500HD DirtyMax|Daily Driver|Stock 2003 Tahoe Stock 1985 K5 5.3LS/4L60E|8Lug 4:56|3/4 Ton Front|14BFF Rear|Roll Cage|Dove-tailed & Bobbed |
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#25 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Here
Posts: 5,483
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Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
I'm really liking this build. Some nice subtle touches. It will be a fun driver when it's complete.
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Tags |
1967, custom, dropped, lowered |
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