My 1967 Build (Finally)

[KyleSeal]

Originally Posted by Shifty One

https://www.brakebleeder.com/product...verse-bleeder/

Expensive as hell, but worth it sometimes....my Corvette calipers like to fight as well....

I ended up buying a pressure bleeder which works pretty well. I believe my wheel cylinders were pulling air which sounds weird but I swapped them and no more air. But I believe the prop valve may be shot as well. New one will be here today and if all works out I will hopefully drive this weekend!

[KyleSeal]

Driver's side door is painted on the interior side, next I need to POR15 the skin patch I did, then the outside surface. But before all of that I need to throw some intentional wear on this door. Once it fully cures Ill get to it and then it is next in line to be cleared. Happy to be close!

[KyleSeal]

I may have said in here before, but if not Ill just say - I really dislike the live oil pressure gauge and the fact it has oil running into the cab. Mainly because it makes a leak point that can get all over the back of the dash and on you. I tried 3 lines and could never get it to seal. So I began to look for some way to move to an electric gauge. Here's what I did:

1981 sender and gauge from LMC.
Temp & ammeter gauge 'plate' from a 67-72.
Removed face, needle from the 67-72 mechanical gauge
Removed face, needle from the 1981 C10.
The 67-72 gauge has a face plate and a mounting plate, I glued these together with SEM panel adhesive.
I then took the 1981 gauge and tossed the face and needle, and began to line up the face, I had to drill a new hole about .5" up for the needle, and drilled two holes in the face to mount to the gauge.
I used two sheet metal style screws to secure the face, they feel solid and are not visible in the cluster. The needle is the same style and fits on the new gauge, I did need to shorten it about .5".
This is where I get to the mounting, if you use the temp & amm plate from another cluster, the 1981 gauge will fit 100% in the location of the temp gauge. Not drilling needed to mount the gauge, but you do need to drill two holes to mount the plate to the cluster.
Wiring, I wired a 12v positive to the water temp hot side, the blue wire runs to the sender on the motor, and I currently have a ground to run out to a spot under the dash, but I believe using serrated washers and a nut would ground the gauge to the cluster on its own.
I did have the engine running yesterday and it appears to read proper!

It should be notated as well - board member MikeB and his posts on this gave me a great guide as to swap gauges. I just took it a bit further on reused my gauge face.

I am planning on completing a video on this for YouTube, when done I will post here.

[raggedjim]

Nice work on the oil pressure gauge. I updated my ammeter but never even thought about the oil gauge.

Thanks, Rg

[Shifty One]

Nice work Kyle!

[KyleSeal]

Originally Posted by raggedjim

Nice work on the oil pressure gauge. I updated my ammeter but never even thought about the oil gauge.

Thanks, Rg

Originally Posted by Shifty One

Nice work Kyle!

Thanks guys! I am quite happy with it. Glad theres no potential oil leaks, especially with my green carpet. Plus I am not too concerned with specific oil pressure, just whether I have oil pressure and making sure its consistent. In hindsight I wish I did a YouTube channel during this build, but I plan to document other stuff as I go.

[KyleSeal]

Just about done with the fauxtina job on the door, I think this side looks far more honest than the passenger side. My 54 BelAir gave me a good idea of how this patina should look, so I went heavier on the black under the 503 green so I can softly break the surface of the green with a good 320 grit. Satin clear is to follow!

[jasinger01]

Looks great! Are you doing the fauxtina with a spray can?

[KyleSeal]

Originally Posted by jasinger01

Looks great! Are you doing the fauxtina with a spray can?

Yes I am. I use a Duplicolor sandable primer which is labeled 'filler primer' in the red oxide. The 503 green is the custom mix cans that a local shop can fill.

[jasinger01]

Originally Posted by KyleSeal

Yes I am. I use a Duplicolor sandable primer which is labeled 'filler primer' in the red oxide. The 503 green is the custom mix cans that a local shop can fill.

Very cool, love the look. Are you doing any clear over it?

[hewittca]

You did a nice job on the door. I like how you got the worn paint where someone would have grabbed the window frame to close it. The layering of paint worked out really well too.

[KyleSeal]

Originally Posted by jasinger01

Very cool, love the look. Are you doing any clear over it?

Yes. I do a satin clear so that I dont have any crazy glare from the sun off the painted panels. Dash was done the same way, and interior walls/ceiling. I use the two part aerosol cans from SprayMax

Originally Posted by hewittca

You did a nice job on the door. I like how you got the worn paint where someone would have grabbed the window frame to close it. The layering of paint worked out really well too.

Thanks! I tried to incorporate as much 'natural' wear as possible. My 54's patina really kind of taught me a lot about natural wear and age. Its tough finding the right combo of abrasives and layering it give you the right age!

[72 tigger]

Looking great!

[KyleSeal]

Driver side door is mounted after clear and most the innards are installed.

Only thing I am missing is the door control / relay. Apparently the 67 one is a single year production as well! I had no idea, so now the hunt is on for that door relay. Otherwise, all the guts are good, glass is in, speaker is in, and all the seals are in place.

Im working that lower corner where I had to shrink the door skin, hope to have that painted tonight!

[KyleSeal]

Also seems my new radiator from LMC is leaking. I need to pressure test it to be sure but it appears its coming from the fins, with coolant on the ground and in the radiator support. Now I am shopping for a good aftermarket that wont cost north of $600..

[KyleSeal]

Finishing up the paint for the door, stacking some colors on the lower door skin so I can do some intentional wear spots, maybe even add a few small dents to match the rest of the truck.

Still dealing with my brakes, hoping this weekend to really disassemble the rear brake system and pinpoint my issue. Its been ready to drive for weeks but no ability to stop. Frustrating!

[Shifty One]

Originally Posted by KyleSeal

Also seems my new radiator from LMC is leaking. I need to pressure test it to be sure but it appears its coming from the fins, with coolant on the ground and in the radiator support. Now I am shopping for a good aftermarket that wont cost north of $600..

https://www.rndfabrication.com/CrossflowRadiators.html

This is the way I'm going when I finally get to that end of my truck.

[KyleSeal]

Driver's door exterior is painted and patina'd so far to how I like, I may do more but I think it came out fair. Installed the door trim as well, its a 'NOS' piece but looks like it sat out for a while and got bumped around. Either way, I am just glad it isnt too new. Needs to dull out some, but it fits.

Not pictured, but I did seal the clips to the door with some 3M strip caulk I have to keep water from rushing into the door on heavy rain or when Im cleaning the truck.

And of course I had to add the '67 GM Mark of Excellence logo to the door jamb!

[KyleSeal]

Originally Posted by Shifty One

https://www.rndfabrication.com/CrossflowRadiators.html

This is the way I'm going when I finally get to that end of my truck.

I just ordered a Cold Case, I have heard a lot of people like their quality and more so their warranty. Ive heard theyre easy to deal with when someone needs to warranty a radiator. Hopefully I wont ever need to though

[raggedjim]

Nice work, now you have me thinking I should go the patina route.

[loudchevy]

Drivers door looks great!

[chewychevy67]

I'm really liking this build. Some nice subtle touches. It will be a fun driver when it's complete.

[jasinger01]

Originally Posted by raggedjim

Nice work, now you have me thinking I should go the patina route.

Same here. My truck is now partially in primer, with a red cab, and a green bed. At least the rust is gone but damn I wish it was a patina truck like this.

[Shifty One]

Gotta scuff-up the GM tab though!

[KyleSeal]

Hub cap vs wheel cover war. I am torn. The things I do while I wait on my 5th master cylinder to arrive.