faux-tina paint jobs

[tazattitude]

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

Wow, Taz...nice job. One of the most natural looking ones I've seen. I bet that took way more time that just doing a straight forward paintjob.

Thank you!

Yea, you're exactly right.
I mentioned this elsewhere on another website, the reason I did this is because, if I do a nice paint job, I feel then the moldings need to be polished, but grill needs to be rechromed, the bumpers needed to be redone. Then you go backwards and get into the suspension, interior. Then have to rebuild the motot... Before you know it, you have 30K plus in a truck.
My '66 is the one I'm going to do all the above on.
Already started that project.

The patina paint job fits the rest of the truck.
Plus owning a bodyshop, I always wanted to do a patina on a truck/car. I've done a couple on motorcycles before.

This patina truck will be for sale down the road.

[tazattitude]

Originally Posted by Asshat

Should I just start sanding to get rid of the cracked look of the paint? That’s probably the quickest, right?

I agree! Keep it natural patina
Someone had taken a natural patina on my '63 truck and spray canned primer on the complete truck. It was a nasty primer job. It was peeling off and didn't sand at all....another reason why I had to strip the truck first.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by tazattitude

I agree! Keep it natural patina
Someone had taken a natural patina on my '63 truck and spray canned primer on the complete truck. It was a nasty primer job. It was peeling off and didn't sand at all....another reason why I had to strip the truck first.

Wait, you aren't agreeing to him sanding his natural patina are you?
I hope you are saying to leave it alone.

[tazattitude]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

Wait, you aren't agreeing to him sanding his natural patina are you?
I hope you are saying to leave it alone.

Saying YES to leave it natural patina. Don't sand it or do anything.
I was just saying I didn't have that opportunity to leave it natural patina since someone spray some crap gray primer over my '63

Originally Posted by CHIZZLER

I like it.

nice truck!
What are those wheels?

[Angrywood]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

Spray or roll it with a thin coat - color of choice - without any prep, and then let nature do its own thing.

which one would work better do you think? spray or roll?

[clemdaddy]

Here is a light faux-tina job on a 63 Jimmy. A lot of rust repairs were done and one door and both wheel tubs were replaced. What we think turned out pretty good is the detail stuff like mirrors, rear bumper and grill surround.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by Angrywood

which one would work better do you think? spray or roll?

I rolled mine because I didn't have a sprayer. But it also worked out well when I sanded it.
But play around and see what works for you.
Here is where I started getting a look I really liked:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...89#post7274689

[The Rocknrod]

Originally Posted by clemdaddy

Here is a light faux-tina job on a 63 Jimmy. A lot of rust repairs were done and one door and both wheel tubs were replaced. What we think turned out pretty good is the detail stuff like mirrors, rear bumper and grill surround.

Nice. I should have done something like that 😕

[jocko]

clemdaddy, that's a beauty.

[Android04]

Here is a Faux-tina job we did on my 65. Now the 56 next too it is 100% original patina (haha)

Cab is original other then rockers, New fenders, all new bed, and original hood.

[Angrywood]

I asked this question in the paint section and am not getting too much help…..so id think id reach out to a bigger audience…..


What type of paint are you using and what kind of finish? I dont want shiney but im only finding a gray rust oleum in a gloss. Im looking for a light gray but still not sure on the finish. What will help the already Pantina to rear its beauty through the new top coat better.

I know i am going to be rolling and using a spray gun…… what’s everyone’s thoughts. Heres the truck That i want to top coat over …. By the way… i do not want to rattle can it!

Thank you!

[LostMy65]

I used Sherwin Williams oil base enamel. It's like Rust-Oleum, but it is just the base color, and you can get it mixed to match their sample paint chips. I think the had gloss and semi -gloss. But I hit mine with a fine Scotch Brite pad, and it knocked the gloss right down. I figured using enamel is would weather quicker and give a more realistic look.

[LostMy65]

Just be careful not to make it look like forced wear where there are patches of areas sanded through.
The wear should be the typical places where people's hands and body would have rubbed up against the truck. Or, where weather took it's toll on it - like the top of the hood, roof, and bedsides.

[LostMy65]

Others may have a different taste, but these areas I hit the look I was looking for nail on.
The last pic is where others told me to stop and that it looks great. I get lots of compliments on it.

[Angrywood]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

Just be careful not to make it look like forced wear where there are patches of areas sanded through.
The wear should be the typical places wear people's hands and body would have rubbed up against the truck. Or, where weather took it's toll on it - like the top of the hood, roof, and bedsides.

Ya i think i went too far on what i did. That’s why i want to top coat it. I think it was you that said to just paint it with it prepping. I plan on that and that should show the wear with all that rust i got on there now. I thought enamel would be a thicker stronger paint…didn’t think it would work that well. But will look into it. Thank you

[LostMy65]

Here's what mine looks like 7 years later. A trick is to never wash it.

[jibs]

My 1965 original 57 years in the making patina.

[sscooter]

Here's my '66 Short-Fleet. Original paint Texas truck. Not faux-patina, but a representation of what a faux patina truck should be shooting for with the correct primer bases. (Black oxide for front clip and box, and red oxide for cab/doors)

We believe the truck was stored in a lean-to with the drivers' side facing south...so that side of the truck is WAAAAY more sun-faded.

Photo of drivers' side before trying to shine it up (going to take some work!)

photo of passengers' side showing that there is still life left in old paint. Toughest part is the hood as it has "textured" rust. CLR and a 3M red-scuffy pad, followed by 2000 grit on a oscillating sander prior to buffing, and it puts a bit of shine back in it. Truck will get ceramic coated once finished. Does a good job of keeping the flash rust at bay, especially on bare/smooth steel.

I don't know what my problem is, but I'll take a truck that looks like this, over one that is "show floor".....

[sscooter]

Originally Posted by tazattitude

I agree! Keep it natural patina
Someone had taken a natural patina on my '63 truck and spray canned primer on the complete truck. It was a nasty primer job. It was peeling off and didn't sand at all....another reason why I had to strip the truck first.

about 12 years ago, I bought this '65 C10 out of Kentucky. It had 3 coats of paint on it with the last coat being a Rattle-can (Rustoleum?, Krylon?) job... It too was flaking off, and made the truck look like crap..... The rattle can coat was about 3 shades darker than the original light blue, so it REALLY stood out!

I started messing around with it, and realized that if I took a razor blade and held it at a 90 degree angle to the body, I could SCRAPE that top layer off!!!!

The coat underneath was thick enough that it allowed me to wetsand and buff it out to look like this.... (only pic I have handy right now)

I had about 40 hours in scraping, wetsanding, buffing, detailing to make it look presentable, but it was worth it.

The worst part, was that my asphalt driveway was stained blue, and required a re-seal....lol

[The Rocknrod]

Well it sure looked good when you were done.

[Braunschweiger]

Trucks all look good, scraping off 40 hours is very therapeutic, you can think about everything , it looks great.

[sscooter]

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

Well it sure looked good when you were done.

As with most things, photos usually make things better than "real life", but it was WAAAAY better than when it first showed up on my doorstep.

I just noticed if you look in the photo, you can see beneath the back window, that I wasn't quite done removing some of the "darker" blue paint.. There was overspray onto the white cab top, that I must have taken care of after this pic was taken.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by sscooter

Here's my '66 Short-Fleet. Original paint Texas truck. Not faux-patina, but a representation of what a faux patina truck should be shooting for with the correct primer bases. (Black oxide for front clip and box, and red oxide for cab/doors)

We believe the truck was stored in a lean-to with the drivers' side facing south...so that side of the truck is WAAAAY more sun-faded.

Photo of drivers' side before trying to shine it up (going to take some work!)

photo of passengers' side showing that there is still life left in old paint. Toughest part is the hood as it has "textured" rust. CLR and a 3M red-scuffy pad, followed by 2000 grit on a oscillating sander prior to buffing, and it puts a bit of shine back in it. Truck will get ceramic coated once finished. Does a good job of keeping the flash rust at bay, especially on bare/smooth steel.

I don't know what my problem is, but I'll take a truck that looks like this, over one that is "show floor".....

I'd be tickled pink if I had original natural patina.
I personally think every best attempt, even those professionally done, still don't look right. I don't knock someone for trying, it's their truck, do it the way they want. My goal was more of a truck that had been painted several times over the generations and the old paint is wearing through.
I may haven't hit it as well as my vision, but my fauxtina is more because I don't want to have to worry about scratches and dings.
A guy saw me at a gas station and said my truck would be nice if I gave it a paint job. I said, but then I'd have to worry about it.

[forestb]

Real patina is vary random. Random is hard to do. I was thinking that a way that might create a random patina would be to drag the painted sheet mettle across the sand. The hard part would be doing the cab.