The 1960 - 1966 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Factory Correct Restoration Thread

[aerotruk63]

Usually codes like that are a FLEET color or Government issue . state rescue and such not. What original color is on the truck now?

[Submariner616]

Originally Posted by aerotruk63

Usually codes like that are a FLEET color or Government issue . state rescue and such not. What original color is on the truck now?

Exterior is a very rough cream white. Firewall is blue and I see some blue under the white around the cowl. Interior is a gold-ish tan color. Here is a picture of the firewall with the original markings. You can see a little of the white up on the cowl. VIN is K2535S124324

[Submariner616]

Funny thing about that VIN. It is K2535..... Shouldn't it be K2545....?

[damnyankee36]

Don't know if you saw this thread. It shows another type of bolt and someone mentions yet another style that might be correct. Start at post #10

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=575617

[Ronster66]

Thanks, Yankee. I’ll check it out. Hopefully someone can nail down what was used from the factory. Unfortunately, I never found the owner of that blue ‘64 and I haven’t seen it around town in a LONG time. Hopefully, he just has it put away for the winter.

[LT1 Burb]

Originally Posted by damnyankee36

Don't know if you saw this thread. It shows another type of bolt and someone mentions yet another style that might be correct. Start at post #10

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=575617

I would be more inclined to believe the P head is more accurate, I have not seen that bolt anywhere on any 64-66.

[Ronster66]

I agree. The P head bolts really look like something the factory would use. Hoping someone can positively nail it down and hope they also know where these can be purchased. If boneyards are my only hope, I’m all but out of luck around here. I used to have a yard nearby that was LOADED with ‘60-‘66 trucks. When scrap metal prices went through the roof a few years back, it seemed they couldn’t haul stuff out of there fast enough. Nothing left today but an empty woods and a couple of school buses next to the abandoned office. Makes me sick to even drive by.

[oem4me]

Originally Posted by Ronster66

I agree. The P head bolts really look like something the factory would use. Hoping someone can positively nail it down and hope they also know where these can be purchased. If boneyards are my only hope, I’m all but out of luck around here. I used to have a yard nearby that was LOADED with ‘60-‘66 trucks. When scrap metal prices went through the roof a few years back, it seemed they couldn’t haul stuff out of there fast enough. Nothing left today but an empty woods and a couple of school buses next to the abandoned office. Makes me sick to even drive by.

Pretty sure the "p" bolts are not the right ones. I personally have never owned an original truck that came from the factory with the sport bumper and filler panels, so I can't say with authority what the right bolt is. Jon (member 60-66) has that info. I bought some bumper fillers from him awhile back, installed them with hardware store bolts, and he spotted them. He then so appropriately pointed out that with a handle like OEM4ME, I kinda should get it right. Ha ha. Well, I definitely agree.
If I remember right, the correct fastener is a machine screw. Big rounded phillips head, 1/4-20 threads, and a nut and washer below. DO NOT quote me on this. Ask the master (aka 60-66) on here.

[Ronster66]

Thanks oem, hope “60-66” chimes in on this. He definitely seems to know his stuff. The link damnyankee put up shows something similar to what you’re describing. My truck is FAR from a “concours restoration”, but if I can make something correct without killing myself or mortgaging the house, I like to do it. Especially on the exterior of the truck.

[HOTFUN]

These box bolts on the front bed panel are generally very clean as they are painted on head side and the bolts are mostly protected from road salt. At best just look around for someone who made a pickup box trailer out of a 67-72 and it would be simple to get to them and screw them out and pop some regular hex head bolts back in.

[Ronster66]

Excellent idea! Thank you. I just might know where I can find one of those.

[Ronster66]

Excellent idea! Thank you. I just might know where I can find one of those.

[Ronster66]

Looks like I may not have to head to the boneyard after all. Classic Parts offers this stainless bolt kit for $6.95 and it includes four of the phillips head screws.

https://www.classicparts.com/1958-72...ctinfo/09-915/

[cj847]

I can't seem to find the vacuum line routings. Does someone have a schematic? Particularly interested in what the fitting looks like on the 6 cyl intake. and the routings to heater controls.

[Johns 66]

Found these tags on the seat back and bottom when I took them a part....Im assuming these are fabric tags...but does anyone know what they mean?

[cwcarpenter98]

I found one of those tags on the bottom of my seat when I had it out last as well. It's still attached, but I have no idea what it is for

[jonzcustomshop]

Does anyone have pictures and info on the correct route for the wire that goes from the horn relay to the positive battery cable?

Does it come through the hole next to the battery tray? are there any clips that hold it on the right side after the last one that is under the core support? Also if it does go through the hole to the right of the battery tray, what is the hole for in the top of the core support to the left of the battery tray?

[60-66]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

Does anyone have pictures and info on the correct route for the wire that goes from the horn relay to the positive battery cable?

Does it come through the hole next to the battery tray? are there any clips that hold it on the right side after the last one that is under the core support? Also if it does go through the hole to the right of the battery tray, what is the hole for in the top of the core support to the left of the battery tray?

What year Jon ?

[jonzcustomshop]

Originally Posted by 60-66

What year Jon ?

Thanks, 1965/1966.

[allchevy58]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

Does anyone have pictures and info on the correct route for the wire that goes from the horn relay to the positive battery cable?

Does it come through the hole next to the battery tray? are there any clips that hold it on the right side after the last one that is under the core support? Also if it does go through the hole to the right of the battery tray, what is the hole for in the top of the core support to the left of the battery tray?

It comes off the relay, goes through two holes on radiator support, in front of the radiator, three clips hold it up in front of radiator, over to hole in radiator support right side of battery.

[jonzcustomshop]

Originally Posted by allchevy58

It comes off the relay, goes through two holes on radiator support, in front of the radiator, three clips hold it up in front of radiator, over to hole in radiator support right side of battery.

perfect! thank you so much.

[bhap]

I am painting the dash on my 62 Custom C10 and would like to paint the glove box door inset the correct dark gray color. Does anyone know of a rattle can color/brand that comes close? Should this be satin or gloss or ?? Thanks for your help.

And thanks to 60-66 for the reference picture!

Bob

[SBPage1]

BHAP...did you ever get a response to your question on dash colors/paint? I’m having the same issue.

[msgtmac]

What radiator are you using?

[LVPhotos]

How "rare" is the '62 day/night mirror... my 3rd optbut scored one intact. Every other truck had standard.