Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread

[No__limits]

I have a I believe 68 frame c 10 that im going to change the front suspension to an 86 front end. I purchased a front clip that has the power steering gear box and is complete hub to hub including the engine crossmember. It isn't the 1 1/4" rotors tho. Besides just bolting up all the new front suspension is there anything else I will need to do.

[Captainfab]

If you change the entire suspension, you will have to drill 1 hole on each side and elongate 1 hole on each side. The power steering box will bolt right up to a '68 C series frame. Then you will have to run new brake lines along with a proportioning valve and the correct master cylinder for a disc/drum brake system.

[No__limits]

Thank you for the reply. I haven't done any searching thru this site, but does anyone sell a kit with all the nuts and bolts to install or have a link with all the fasteners to replace

[Captainfab]

I do not know of anyone that sells a bolt kit for this conversion. In the past I just reused the original fasteners. If you feel you need all new fasteners, you will simply have to make a list of what is needed and go down to your local fastener store or hardware store.

Originally Posted by No__limits

Thank you for the reply. I haven't done any searching thru this site, but does anyone sell a kit with all the nuts and bolts to install or have a link with all the fasteners to replace

[TurnNBurn]

HI all I think I have things in order maybe not

I have the whole front crossmember brakes spindles , booster, etc from a 77 gmc sub 1/2 going to swap in to my 66 gmc 1/2. Its a 5 hole now but I want to go 6 like the 66. I Cant use the factory rotors from say a 90 c2500 because spindle diffrences or is that not so.

So I have to get 73-87 3/4-1 ton lower control arms so I can use factory 88+ factory spindles, rotors and lower balljoint? Correct so far

[Captainfab]

You can not use the '88-'98 spindles, rotors, etc. If you go back and read you will see why. If you want to stay with 6 lug, you will have to purchase the aftermarket 6 lug rotors.

[TurnNBurn]

Ok I thought I seen that in a post that you could thats why I asked theres a pile of info in this thread I will look again and try find why it doesnt work. so my 77 stuff and aftermarket rotors and then I will have it

[Captainfab]

Yes, as long as your spindles are for the 1,250" rotors. They should be.

[Jerrybigbird]

So i got a question ...my 64 c10 has manual brakes and factory power steering ..and my 79 donor truck has manual brakes and steering by armstrong . If i swap crossmembers do i have to swap steering gears to?

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by Jerrybigbird

So i got a question ...my 64 c10 has manual brakes and factory power steering ..and my 79 donor truck has manual brakes and steering by armstrong . If i swap crossmembers do i have to swap steering gears to?

Short answer is no. In reality, you do not even have to swap cross members. To get disc brakes, you just really only need to swap ball joints to match the spindle you are using and use a tie rod adapter sleeve to use the correct tie rod for the spindle you use.

The only difference between the cross members is the holes for the u-bolts that hold the lower arm in place. The later model uses a larger diameter u-bolt. If you are swapping to the later a-arms to get the rubber bushings versus the steel ones, then you can easily drill out those 8 holes to the correct size for the later model u-bolts. I think they are 9/16" dia...

[Captainfab]

You can keep your factory '64 power steering if you want to, but you will have to purchase those aluminum tie rod adapter sleeves to be able to connect your original draglink to the spindles.

[Jerrybigbird]

Originally Posted by aggie91

Short answer is no. In reality, you do not even have to swap cross members. To get disc brakes, you just really only need to swap ball joints to match the spindle you are using and use a tie rod adapter sleeve to use the correct tie rod for the spindle you use.

The only difference between the cross members is the holes for the u-bolts that hold the lower arm in place. The later model uses a larger diameter u-bolt. If you are swapping to the later a-arms to get the rubber bushings versus the steel ones, then you can easily drill out those 8 holes to the correct size for the later model u-bolts. I think they are 9/16" dia...

Cool thanks

[matthamby]

Hey guys,

I am interested in this thread, I am only posting this info as a reference point (I don't know if this actually works or not, when I have read this whole thread I will remove any erroneous information), I have not read the whole thread as of yet, however, I will do that soon.

I saw this on a facebook feed that I wanted to tag and research - again I don't know if it is true - yet!

"Just buy the 71-87 disk brake spindles, bearings, calipers, hoses and then get the 6 lug rotors for a 88-98chevy light duty 3/4 ton 2 wheel drive."

Thanks for your patience!

[Captainfab]

There are a couple of variations of using the '88-'98 LD2500 6 lug rotors that are discussed in this thread. Neither of which will work well without some serious work. While those rotors will physically mount to the spindles, the calipers and pads will not fit without extensive modification. For most people it is just not woirth the time and effort when you can buy the aftermarket 6 lug rotors that fit both the factory '73-'87 spindles as well as most all aftermarket dropped spindles.

Originally Posted by matthamby

Hey guys,

I am interested in this thread, I am only posting this info as a reference point (I don't know if this actually works or not, when I have read this whole thread I will remove any erroneous information), I have not read the whole thread as of yet, however, I will do that soon.

I saw this on a facebook feed that I wanted to tag and research - again I don't know if it is true - yet!

"Just buy the 71-87 disk brake spindles, bearings, calipers, hoses and then get the 6 lug rotors for a 88-98chevy light duty 3/4 ton 2 wheel drive."

Thanks for your patience!

[matthamby]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

There are a couple of variations of using the '88-'98 LD2500 6 lug rotors that are discussed in this thread. Neither of which will work well without some serious work. While those rotors will physically mount to the spindles, the calipers and pads will not fit without extensive modification. For most people it is just not woirth the time and effort when you can buy the aftermarket 6 lug rotors that fit both the factory '73-'87 spindles as well as most all aftermarket dropped spindles.

Well, dang! I was really looking for something that I could go to the parts store and get replacements readily available - converting to 5-lug is just not an option I want. it appears that i'll just have to stick with ordering an extra set to have on hand, and order the set after replacing the pads.

when I have more time I will read through this thread as I'm sure the answers I am looking for are most likely here.

[Captainfab]

Believe me I was also hoping to be able to source the 6 lug rotors locally also. When I found the old thread about using the '88-'98 LD 2500 spindles rotors and calipers, I thought I had found what I had been hoping for. But after a couple other members tried it and could not get the correct camber during an alignment, I began to have second thoughts. I may still give it a try someday, but I'm thinking that a set of custom tubular uper control arms, shorter than stock may be necessary.

[matthamby]

Hmm, so they fit, it's a matter of the camber not adjusting?

I need to take an hour and read through this thread!

[Captainfab]

Yes, if you use the '88-'98 spindles, rotors and calipers along with the correct ball joints, a pair of C20 lower control arms and a few other pieces. I believe all of that was discussed in the front half of this thread, as well as a link to the original post where I learned about it.

Originally Posted by matthamby

Hmm, so they fit, it's a matter of the camber not adjusting?

I need to take an hour and read through this thread!

[oliver63]

If I am asking this in the wrong thread I apologize. Can someone tell me who sells drilled and grooved front rotors for a 72-87 1.250 that are zinc coated that won't rust? Mine from cpp are so rusty they look deplorable.

[jocko]

I'd contact POL - Performance Online - via phone - and tell them what you are looking for. Not sure they have it, but they are honest and they have a lot of disk conversion parts available.

https://www.performanceonline.com/Br...evy-GMC-Truck/

Not sure about the zinc coating - does the truck sit a lot? That will keep rust off the surface. Might consider painting the non-brake surface of a non-coated one before install to preserve. Not sure this helps! This thread and forum is close enough - assume you've done a conversion on your 63? Many upgraded 60-66 to 71+ spindles. Ask about the drilling and slots - I'm pretty sure they have those available or can do it to something you want to order.

[oliver63]

I have THE RIGHT STUFF zinc plated rotors on the rear...they always look great. The CPP rotors on the front I have painted...but being drilled and slotted and the surface the pad doesnt contact rust. They look really bad having a spoke wheel where you see the rotor so much. I am sure there are front rotors somewhere zinc plated...i just havent found any yet and thought some members might have had some good luck with some on their trucks.

Originally Posted by jocko

I'd contact POL - Performance Online - via phone - and tell them what you are looking for. Not sure they have it, but they are honest and they have a lot of disk conversion parts available.

https://www.performanceonline.com/Br...evy-GMC-Truck/

Not sure about the zinc coating - does the truck sit a lot? That will keep rust off the surface. Might consider painting the non-brake surface of a non-coated one before install to preserve. Not sure this helps! This thread and forum is close enough - assume you've done a conversion on your 63? Many upgraded 60-66 to 71+ spindles. Ask about the drilling and slots - I'm pretty sure they have those available or can do it to something you want to order.

[matthamby]

Hey guys, quick question - may not be the appropriate place but it does have to do with breaks.

I'm thinking of swapping the rear axle out for a more modern Silverado axle with disk breaks, I have examined the attachment of the 70 c-10 axle and I can have brackets made up and I have a professional automotive fabricator available to help me with the set-up. My question is about the wheel mount surface dimensions. Are the later model mount surfaces close to the same as the 70's, I want to stay 6-lug. I need to make sure what I get will be close to what I have width wise, thought I would ask on here to hopefully save walking through a yard and start measuring multiple vehicles till I find what I'm looking for, instead, I could just search for the correct vehicle. I would prefer doing something where I can go to a local parts store to get maintenance parts in-lieu of having to order rotors and pads when it comes time to replace those parts. Plus, the cost for a rear-end is about $150 from a local yard. Any thoughts/ help?

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by oliver63

If I am asking this in the wrong thread I apologize. Can someone tell me who sells drilled and grooved front rotors for a 72-87 1.250 that are zinc coated that won't rust? Mine from cpp are so rusty they look deplorable.

These are on rockauto.com, I looked under 1985 Chevy C10.


CENTRIC 12766000L StopTech Sport; Drilled & Slotted Front Left; 2-3/4" Rear Shoe
CENTRIC 12766000R StopTech Sport; Drilled & Slotted Front Right; 2-3/4" Rear Shoe

The info says that they are e-coated for corrosion resistance. Not zinc, but they are coated...

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by matthamby

Hey guys, quick question - may not be the appropriate place but it does have to do with breaks.

I'm thinking of swapping the rear axle out for a more modern Silverado axle with disk breaks, I have examined the attachment of the 70 c-10 axle and I can have brackets made up and I have a professional automotive fabricator available to help me with the set-up. My question is about the wheel mount surface dimensions. Are the later model mount surfaces close to the same as the 70's, I want to stay 6-lug. I need to make sure what I get will be close to what I have width wise, thought I would ask on here to hopefully save walking through a yard and start measuring multiple vehicles till I find what I'm looking for, instead, I could just search for the correct vehicle. I would prefer doing something where I can go to a local parts store to get maintenance parts in-lieu of having to order rotors and pads when it comes time to replace those parts. Plus, the cost for a rear-end is about $150 from a local yard. Any thoughts/ help?

From what I've learned over the years.... during 1970, it was a transition year as front disc brakes were going to become standard in 1971 on trucks. With the change to front disc brakes, the rear end dimensions also changed @ some point in the year to better match track width. So early production 70's had a narrower rear housing vs later 1970 production housings.

That being said, later 70 through 87 housings were still drum brake equipped but 1.5" wider (.75" each side) vs the early 70 housing (63- early 70).
88-98 housings were also still drum brake equipped & 3" wider vs early 70 housings.
99 & later housings started getting rear discs but again gained width....

Can a later model housing be swapped? It's possible. But you're going to need to measure your housing & measure a late model housing to know what the impact is.

[matthamby]

Yeah, I was figuring the track width would change, wondering how much, I plan on installing a front suspension cradle out of an 85 model that I have a contact for. so the front end should push out with that, trying to find exactly what I need, wonder if a rear end out of a 4x4 in those years would be the same width?

"fixing" one thing brings up another to be "fixed"!