Post Your Straight Six Pics!

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by RichardJ

For tube headers you would be wise to replace those locator pins on both ends of the head with bolts or even better, threaded studs.
Every hole down the side of the head is threaded 3/8-16. The heads originally had those end pins and the third hole from each end had a threaded stud for a 3/8-24, nut.
Originally they had both long and short clamping bars for between the IN and EX runners. I found extra short bars and used only those between the tube headers and a Clifford manifold.
I put studs in all eight holes and it makes it a lot easier to hold everything in place for assembly.

If you can't find the short clamping bars, you might try the steel half-balls from under old rocker arms. They are made of a real hard steel and are ready for another life of hard abuse. I have an Offy intake and Clifford long tube headers.

[RichardJ]

Yes, the rocker balls are hard steel, but that only makes them harder to fit. Rocker balls are about 7/8", the short clamping bars are 1 1/4" and grind very easily for a precise fit. The heights of the cast flanges varied from runner to runner on the Clifford and were taller than the header flange.
I do see a lot of guys get by with simple flat washers and no problems.

The important thing is to do something with those end locator pins. Those will surely prevent a good seal.

Using 8 studs down the length of the head was a worth while bonus in my mind. It provides better clamping and it made it so much easier to assemble the three manifold pieces plus the gasket to the side of the head. Not so hard on the engine stand, but if you are reaching over the fenders.

Not one bolt is holding the manifolds in place in the photo. The manifolds are just set on the studs, one piece at a time.

[69chevy lwb]

292 with offenhouser finned valve cover, billet specialties stream line air cleaner, HEI distributor, 3 speed overdrive, other than that all stock

['68OrangeSunshine]

RichardJ: You're right, I only used the rocker balls on the ends, where I removed the mounting guide pins and installed studs. I also have 2 studs in the center -- thus catching both outer holes on each header assembly. I will surely use all studs on my next L6 assembly.
69ChevyLWB: Nice valve cover. I see that's one made for the 250-292 "Late" series L6. Langdon sells an adapter to use the 235-261 "Early" series L6 valve cover on a late engine, but to me that's too much hardware.

[RichardJ]

>> Langdon sells an adapter to use the 235-261 "Early" series L6 valve cover on a late engine,<<

Santucci's book shows that as a way to get clearance for aluminum rocker arms. The rocker arm companies all discourage removing any material from the aluminum rockers for any reason.
I cut the corners open and welded in extra metal to gain room for the Crane Gold on my engine.

[jcramsey]

Originally Posted by RichardJ

For tube headers you would be wise to replace those locator pins on both ends of the head with bolts or even better, threaded studs.
Every hole down the side of the head is threaded 3/8-16. The heads originally had those end pins and the third hole from each end had a threaded stud for a 3/8-24, nut.
Originally they had both long and short clamping bars for between the IN and EX runners. I found extra short bars and used only those between the tube headers and a Clifford manifold.
I put studs in all eight holes and it makes it a lot easier to hold everything in place for assembly.

Thanks for the info on the thread sizes. I could already tell the pins on the end were gonna give me troubles..I will definitely switch them out for bolts or studs. I agree studs all the way across would be very ideal to make it easier to install everything!

Originally Posted by VWNate1

Good man ! .

Now your truck will stand out even more.

-Nate

Thanks Nate!

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by RichardJ

>> Langdon sells an adapter to use the 235-261 "Early" series L6 valve cover on a late engine,<<

Santucci's book shows that as a way to get clearance for aluminum rocker arms. The rocker arm companies all discourage removing any material from the aluminum rockers for any reason.
I cut the corners open and welded in extra metal to gain room for the Crane Gold on my engine.

I painted my tin, non-script, stock valve cover in Cast Iron Grey so I could pretend it was a cast aluminum cover.

[Jimbabwe]

I was gonna do that too. Thought it would look cool, but painted it orange instead. Let's see a pic.

[pritch]

I got a little more done. All 3 of my carbs are re-built, but I still need a couple odds and ends for them. I've been working on the linkage, I know what I need, now just to find it. I'll have to cruise the parts board.







This is all just mock-up. As soon as find a couple more carb parts, I'll take each one of these and install on my green '68 and get them tuned up. I figure that will be the easiest way to test them. I still need to do a little clean-up on the outside of #3, so it better matches the other 2 in color. Some 4-ought steel wool will take the yellowish old finish off and leave the patina pretty well.

[bugmasta]

40 years of farm work


Posted via Mobile Device

[truckeez]

Please note that you must be a supporting member to post classified items. This includes but is not limited to What Its Worth, Want To Buy, Want To Trade, and For Sale. Please consider supporting the forum by subscribing. Further information on the subscription levels available are located here

If you need any further assistance with that please contact any Admin for help.

[VWNate1]

]

SWEET ! just be aware that these torque monster engines are :

A. thirsty buggers !

B. sure to blow up fast if you rev. them much , they're a stroker version of the thinwall 250 and long stroke engines hate high RPM's except in very short bursts as you're going up through the gears....

[longbed67]

Originally Posted by pritch

I got a little more done. All 3 of my carbs are re-built, but I still need a couple odds and ends for them. I've been working on the linkage, I know what I need, now just to find it. I'll have to cruise the parts board.

This is all just mock-up. As soon as find a couple more carb parts, I'll take each one of these and install on my green '68 and get them tuned up. I figure that will be the easiest way to test them. I still need to do a little clean-up on the outside of #3, so it better matches the other 2 in color. Some 4-ought steel wool will take the yellowish old finish off and leave the patina pretty well.

If you tune each one to handle a 250 engine individually, and then you put all three on one 250, that thing will be so pig rich it prolly wont run...

[Aaron Burkemper]

I have an extra one of these, and wouldn't mind putting one in a C10 one day. It would be different, and they really wind up!

[truckeez]

Originally Posted by VWNate1

SWEET ! just be aware that these torque monster engines are :

A. thirsty buggers !

B. sure to blow up fast if you rev. them much , they're a stroker version of the thinwall 250 and long stroke engines hate high RPM's except in very short bursts as you're going up through the gears....

They are not near as fragile as you say they are nate, just dont put one in a dump truck and pop the clutch when its ful loaded -I know, this one was run in a truck for 3 mos- the owner let his bone head stepson ruin the previous one,,,, a rod thru the side /hole big as a fosters beer can.

[longbed67]

Originally Posted by Aaron Burkemper

I have an extra one of these, and wouldn't mind putting one in a C10 one day. It would be different, and they really wind up!

Not trying to be the dummy here, and I can see it is a straight 6, but which engine is this and who makes it?

[67stepsideC10]

I love this thread.

I have a 64 I bought a while back that I think I will keep the rest of my life. We've been through a whole lot together, and nobody's gonna want to pay what that's worth to me anyway. If you want the whole story read the thread in my sig.




I did my first engine swap in this truck. Went from the 230 (plum full of stop leak) to a later model 250 with only 40k miles. Sold the power steering off it for more than I paid for the engine. The fancy little chrome air cleaner bit the dust after an engine backfire early on so I'm running the stock air cleaner now.

Old:


None:


New:




Having some intermittent issue with it over the past couple of days. I've daily driven it the past couple weeks while a friend borrows my car. It has been cutting off on me at stoplights occasionally and is really difficult to get restarted. Backfired on me twice just humming down the interstate at 60mph, constant rpm, which it's never done. I think it's timing. I noticed last night I could see the exhaust glowing red under the floor through one of my rust holes. (One clear pro to having holes in the floorboard). Gotta be running too lean. I know I have (at least one) vacuum leak, too, but that can't be it, can it?

I will always keep the inline 6, would love to do an Offy 4bbl intake or even a 3x1bbl some day. Need a choke BADLY in the wintertime.

[shok]

For the cutting out give the fuel filter, the one in the carb itself, a look. That was the issue when mine did that, found it full of rust.

[Aaron Burkemper]

Originally Posted by longbed67

Not trying to be the dummy here, and I can see it is a straight 6, but which engine is this and who makes it?

Not as common as the Chevy, so don't feel like a dummy. This is an overhead cam inline from my 67 Pontiac Tempest. They made a Sprint version with a 10.1 compression head. It also had a four barrel and split dual exhaust manifold. They only made them for a few years.

[Aaron Burkemper]

Is it hard to start when cold, also? If not, probably not timing. I would look at sunk float or the choke stuck closed. Check your plugs for sooty black fouling.

[67stepsideC10]

Originally Posted by shok

For the cutting out give the fuel filter, the one in the carb itself, a look. That was the issue when mine did that, found it full of rust.

The muffler literally caught fire as I pulled in my driveway spitting and sputtering tonight on my way home from work. Flames up to the back window between the cab and bed.

Got the air cleaner off and quickly realized the choke was staying on 100% of the time, which I think was causing it to run extremely rich. Fuel accumulated in the muffler, which ignited. The muffler was already blown out from a big backfire I had a long time ago, so that's why the flames came up where they did. Probably wouldn't have ignited if it had a solid muffler.

Thankfully the flames went out quickly and there was no damage or injury.

About a week ago I noticed the cold weather was causing it to be difficult to start. The choke lever had been bent so that it wouldn't open. I bent it back to see how it would work. Seemed like it worked, so I let it be and have been driving like that for about a week. YIKES!

The choke lever is now bent BACK how it was before so it will stay off. Glad I figured it out.

Still going to check timing, fuel filters, and vacuum leaks tomorrow. Bet the plugs are fouled too from driving around with the choke on all week. The saga continues.

[67stepsideC10]

Originally Posted by Aaron Burkemper

Is it hard to start when cold, also? If not, probably not timing. I would look at sunk float or the choke stuck closed. Check your plugs for sooty black fouling.

You guessed it.

[VWNate1]

Originally Posted by truckeez

They are not near as fragile as you say they are nate, just dont put one in a dump truck and pop the clutch when its ful loaded -I know, this one was run in a truck for 3 mos- the owner let his bone head stepson ruin the previous one,,,, a rod thru the side /hole big as a fosters beer can.

I didn't say they are fragile because they're not ~ they just don't like to be overevved like the stupid kid did , that's why it broke the rod through the side of the block ~ I bet the rod failed right below the wrist pin , that's where they always fail when overevved .

Remember : the 292 was the standard engine in C50's and school bus chassis .

[Sixteen Tons]

1969

[TBONE1964]

Here is the 292 in my 64. I am looking for the original green engine paint for it, if anyone knows a color number.

I am going to Oregon right after Christmas to work on it a little more. This photo is from the day I bought it. I will keep the progress updated but it is slow.