LockDoc's "Low Budget", "Low Maintenance" Project Thread

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by zicc1835

now its REALLY a truck LOL...... looks great

Thanks... I couldn't see too much out of that little round mirror...

Originally Posted by CG

Such a neat truck. You really did an awesome job!

I appreciate that Mark.

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

Looking Good

Thanks.

Originally Posted by clay68c10

So what’s the first thing you’re going to tow??

It depends on which one of my other vehicles breaks down first...
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[Sheepdip]

Leon you built a fine specimen there....If GM would have built it, this is what it would have looked like! Congrats on a well done conversion.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Sheepdip

Leon you built a fine specimen there....If GM would have built it, this is what it would have looked like! Congrats on a well done conversion.

Thanks. That is what I was trying to accomplish and I think it came out pretty close.

[LockDoc]

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Took the truck to get the alignment done and deliver an ashtray to a friend of mine. Ended up covering 136 miles overall. Garmin shows 11 MPG. I was hoping for a little more but I have a hard time keeping my foot out of it....

I am going to be removing the instrument cluster in the next day or so to see if I can figure out why the temp gauge isn't working. Anyone know what the OHM reading is on the Chevy 8.1L temp sender?

I am also thinking about installing the extra pair of Jeep JK headlights I have.

[3757chevy]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

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I am also thinking about installing the extra pair of Jeep JK headlights I have.

I sure like the ones I put in the Burb.

[LockDoc]

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Originally Posted by 3757chevy

I sure like the ones I put in the Burb.

Thanks.


I finally got around to installing my Jeep JK headlights today. When I installed the set in my '67 Panel Truck I didn't have to make any modifications to anything, but with this set I had to make a couple of modifications to the headlight bucket. It must be because of the difference in the way the headlights mount in the core support on the '67 & '68 trucks.

I bought these on e-Bay. The headlights I bought were from a private seller that changed his over to something different. They are in excellent condition. You have to be careful because there are a lot of look alikes. They do make exact replacements too but you have to watch, some of them come with bulbs and some don't. The easy way to tell the OEM's are by the back. I think the lights are the same from 2007-2015.

The first picture shows the parts and the second picture shows the modifications I had to make to the buckets. Third picture shows the adapter harness. They are available here:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/13094045132..._redirect=true

Fourth picture shows a closeup of one of the headlights installed, and the fifth shows both headlights. I am still going to install the headlight relay upgrade one of these days.

I adjusted them using these instructions.

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...3&d=1426438429

It worked good.....
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[zicc1835]

interesting timing on your headlight install info
I had my truck out tonight and can't see $h.t. I have the old sealed beams in and do have a pair of ( im not sure what they are) I had in my 72 im going to try them first they are sealed with the signal light in the bottom half never did like them but they worked cuzz I used a earlier bumper without the signals in the bumper........... and yes love that Satin Black on your truck

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by zicc1835

interesting timing on your headlight install info
I had my truck out tonight and can't see $h.t. I have the old sealed beams in and do have a pair of ( im not sure what they are) I had in my 72 im going to try them first they are sealed with the signal light in the bottom half never did like them but they worked cuzz I used a earlier bumper without the signals in the bumper........... and yes love that Satin Black on your truck

Thanks Doc. I was having the same problem with mine. It was like having no lights at all. The JK headlights made all the difference in the world.... I read somewhere that with the turn signals in the lights you can't see them with the lights on. ?

[LockDoc]

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Well, the temp gauge still doesn't work so it has to be something with the sender. Bummer....

[LockDoc]

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I Bench tested the temperature gauges this afternoon. They all test good.

Here is how I did it.

Use a 9 volt battery. Connect a jumper from the Positive terminal on the battery to the Positive post on the gauge. (red wire)

Connect the Negative terminal on the battery to the Ground post on the gauge (black wire).

Connect the yellow wire to the Sender post on the gauge.

When you touch the other end of the yellow wire to the backplate the needle should go all the way over to "hot" side. If the gauge is not mounted to the backplate just touch the free end of the yellow wire to the post on the gauge that the black wire is connected to and it will make the needle go to the "hot" side. This will let you know if the gauge is good.
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[pjmoreland]

You're gauges are probably good, but I encountered a temperature gauge once that passed the test you did above, and it was still bad. The needle wouldn't move from C after the engine warmed up. I think there was an internal short in one of the windings that still let it work partially. Because of this, I like to test these gauges by connecting the Sender post to a second 90-Ohm resistor, and then connect the other side of that resistor to ground. In this state, the needle should move to the normal operating temperature position where the needle is approximately 1/8" to the right of the second line.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

You're gauges are probably good, but I encountered a temperature gauge once that passed the test you did above, and it was still bad. The needle wouldn't move from C after the engine warmed up. I think there was an internal short in one of the windings that still let it work partially. Because of this, I like to test these gauges by connecting the Sender post to a second 90-Ohm resistor, and then connect the other side of that resistor to ground. In this state, the needle should move to the normal operating temperature position where the needle is approximately 1/8" to the right of the second line.

Thanks Patrick. So I could use a stock resistor off of the back of an old gauge, right?

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Thanks Patrick. So I could use a stock resistor off of the back of an old gauge, right?

Yes

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

Yes

Good deal. Thanks.

I will re-test the two gauges that way today.

[LockDoc]

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I re-tested the gauges again using Patrick's suggestion. I meant to post a close up of the labeled gauge yesterday but forgot to. (picture 1)

Picture 2 is the overall view of the connections.

Picture 3 is a close up of the connections with the extra, stock 90 OHM resistor added.

Picture 4 is the readout on an old gauge I have

Picture 5 is of the gauge in my good cluster.

Instructions are the same as before, just with the extra resistor added.....
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[pjmoreland]

Looks good!

[Getter-Done]

Great Information.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

Looks good!

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

Great Information.

Thanks guys.
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[LockDoc]

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Installed the headlight relays today. Pretty straight forward if you follow the instructions on the board. You can buy the kits from almost every truck parts supplier or put your own kit together from junk yard parts.

Below are the diagrams. First one is Chevy, second one is GMC
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[LockDoc]

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Picked up a 4.10 gear for the Dually HO72, to replace the 5.14. It should drop the RPM and help the mileage some. I need to get a new pinion seal for it.
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[3757chevy]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

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Installed the headlight relays today. Pretty straight forward if you follow the instructions on the board. You can buy the kits from almost every truck parts supplier or put your own kit together from junk yard parts.

Below are the diagrams. First one is Chevy, second one is GMC
.

Nice , good info. Thanks

Originally Posted by LockDoc

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Picked up a 4.10 gear for the Dually HO72, to replace the 5.14. It should drop the RPM and help the mileage some. I need to get a new pinion seal for it.
.

Very nice , should help a bunch.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 3757chevy

Nice , good info. Thanks
Very nice , should help a bunch.

Thanks. I will know in a few days....

[Getter-Done]

The 4:10 will be a nice addition.

I am guessing 2200 RPM at 70MPH.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

The 4:10 will be a nice addition.

I am guessing 2200 RPM at 70MPH.

Thanks, I hope so.
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[67-72C10]

The best way I found to put on or take off the hood springs is while they are bolted on the truck hook a fan belt on the end of the spring right on the tip of the coil. While standing in front of the truck pull and lift it off the hinge bracket.
To install just hook the rear on hinge then with the fan belt on the tip of the spring and pull and hook it on the hinge.