1963 C-10 in NC

[1963c-10]

Originally Posted by WhippinSaw

Yes Thanks 1963 C-10, That is the striker I need. Just got my heater core back from the radiator shop too, need to clean up the box before reassembly. Never knew the seat rails were stainless until I started brushing and sanding them. Definitely a must. They did scratch the paint on the upper seat mounting bar. but all the reupholstery shop would do anyway is scuff it and rattle can it.

Boxed up and will go out priority today. Should see in a few days.

[bj383ss]

Originally Posted by WhippinSaw

Yes Thanks 1963 C-10, That is the striker I need. Just got my heater core back from the radiator shop too, need to clean up the box before reassembly. Never knew the seat rails were stainless until I started brushing and sanding them. Definitely a must. They did scratch the paint on the upper seat mounting bar. but all the reupholstery shop would do anyway is scuff it and rattle can it.

So are all the seat rails stainless or just some?

Bret

[1963c-10]

i believe all 60-66 seat tracks are the same for c-10 through c-40 models. at least every pair ive ever seen or owned. i have 3 sets right now that are from 61, 63 & 64 that are all stainless and look identicle.

try sanding a small spot on the bottom of the handle to clean metal and put a little polish on it. betting yours are the same. if not, let me know and i can mail a set up. you'll have to do your own polishing though....

[1963c-10]

im only polishing from the mounts down. no one will ever see the seat rails themselves.

[bj383ss]

Will check that out next time I'm out there.

Thanks
Bret

[Racer2172]

Just read through your entire thread, awesome build, really like the piece by piece completion. Keep it up your going to have a really nice ride when your done.

[1963c-10]

Thanks Racer2172....even when I think I'll be done I'll find more to do. And hopefully another project by then too.

[1963c-10]

Not much new this weekend. The Bluebomber made it down from Cary friday night w/the donar seat from the 66 GMC. Turns out the seat is a 67-68 seat...no biggie. The original 63 seat will go to the upholstery shop and looks like I'll be riding on the 67-68 seat for a few months.

Few differences on the seat tracks...but the handles and long connecting rods are different, and the seats are foam, not springs like ours.

I did get some more time in on the tracks for the seat. I need to get some cleaner for them as it seems like these may have been anodized stainless steel. There is a tough coating on these frames that is a bear to sand off, so it'll be up to the sodium hydroxide to do the work.

[WhippinSaw]

My seat track looked like rusty galvanized steel before I polished them. Did you try an electric drill with a stiff wire brush?
I got the striker today.
Thanks 1963 C-10

[1963c-10]

no, not yet. i was going to let the chemicals take a stab 1st, especially if they are anodized. i have a wire wheel for my drill though...maybe ill give it a shot 1st instead.

good news on the striker...mail service is always scary this time of year. let me know how it works out once installed...looked like it'd clean up nice.

[1963c-10]

This is the easiest project in some time. Project shop clock. And no, I didn't drill the hole in this hard to find hub cap. But was a good $20 investment and I can always use a shop clock.

[TJ's Chevy]

Cool! It will make a great one! Just think....100 years from now that will be worth a fortune! AHHAHAHAH!!!

[1963c-10]

They are worth a small fortune now when you can find them. It's too bad its been drilled and could probably be fixed, but just happens to be correct for the truck, so for now it'll be a shop clock. I got a clock mech at home depot last night, and it can always be removed in the future if I need the cap.

I have 2 extra caps for the trailer project and one spare for the truck should one ever get damaged.

[WhippinSaw]

Originally Posted by 1963c-10

no, not yet. i was going to let the chemicals take a stab 1st, especially if they are anodized. i have a wire wheel for my drill though...maybe ill give it a shot 1st instead.

I had to be really aggressive with the brush, I also used a DA sander with 320grit on the flat areas to speed things up.

[1963c-10]

Thanks WhippinSaw. I have to install the heater core tonight....UPS man came at 8pm last night. So I'll be out in the rain and dark getting it in. But, I'll be back on the seat tracks Wednesday and then I need to complete the passenger side valve cover.

My vinyl arrived in Fayetteville this a.m. according to the USPS site and cloth should be here in the next few days....so won't be long on the seat.

[datguy]

Originally Posted by 1963c-10

I did manage to find an aluminum 63 grill which I stripped all the anodization off of and polished the aluminum out by hand. I still have to instll it, just waiting until I do the front end swap and the new front end sheet metal.

i have a aluminum gril. to i want to send it in to get chromed but i like your idea, anymore info on how you got the grill to look nice?

[1963c-10]

Yep....The aluminum grills were anodized at the factory, so I started w/sodium hydroxide commonly found in oven cleaner. I got it at the local dollar store, just make sure that it has it in it. It'll be on the back of the can. The anodization is a chemical process and easiest method of removal is chemicals.

Once you strip the grill, you can do any dent repair and then pull out the sand paper. I started w/some 600 and worked up to 1200. I used my dremel for the hard to get areas. Then get out the polish or put it on a buffing wheel and you'll be good.

I bought all new springs, retainers, and adjusters for the headlight buckets. Since it has to be stripped and reassembled anyways. Sad part is its still sitting in the parts room waiting to be installed this spring. I had some matching blue vinyl letters cut for the grill and I can get the info posted on those tonight. I bought a set from Classic Parts and they were a horrible fit to the 63 letters. The ones I had made were cheaper and correct for the 63 letters.

Feel free to ask any questions before, during or after. I don't mind helping where I can...you just have to do your own polishing!!!! And post some pics to show how it came out. I have a link to a thread I posted on it when I first did it. Let me see if I can find it.

[1963c-10]

Heres the link datguy: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=501423&page=2

I pulled it back to the main page also...

[TJ's Chevy]

WOWZA! There is more work then meets the eye put in those valve covers! lol! Lots a polishing to! yeah, just like Dad's C-20 with aluminum rims...took me an hour of polishing to get them to shine in the shade! lol! Once polished it is a job well done I tell ya!

[1963c-10]

Yeah, I'd like to have the covers done....they are very time consuming, but the weather is in the 20's here in the morning, so it's good weekend work until it heats up some. A 1/2 hour here and there and they'll be done soon. Makes it harder when I have multiple projects going on...like the seat tracks and frame so I can get it all down to the upholstery shop....but 1 day at a time.

[1963c-10]

Pulled out the blue vinyl that arrived late Tuesday night to make sure there wasn't any damage from shipping, our UPS guy has been coming through around 9pm lately. The color match looks great and the I'm 100% satisfied with the color and feel. Its also a marine grade that's designed to help with uv fading and of coarse its waterproof and mildew proof. 2lbs weight per yard, so its a heavy quality. Now just waiting on the cloth to arrive so I can do a good match up. Its hard to do with a 1" swatch, but so far its all good. Heres a few pics from different angles due to the light.

Also got the clock done and mounted....nice 5min job and most of that was bringing some life back to the hubcaps finish. Came out pretty good if you ask me and now I can tell what time it is when I'm in the parts room. Will eventually make its way to the shop once I finish construction.

Sprayed the tracks down in oven cleaner last night and let them sit overnight....big difference. The cleaner really knocked the dirt out of the anodization and polishing should be a little easier.

[TheBlueBomber]

Sweeeeeeet

[1963c-10]

Thanks Austin

[aerotruk63]

I made a clock like that when I lived in Vancouver. Lost it during the move. The cracked hubcap I have is a perfect candidate for conversion, thanks for the inspiration.

[1963c-10]

No problem. Clock mechanism was only $5.95 at our local home depot. Since the hole was drilled it was only a 2-3 minute job to install the mechanism.

I expect our material any day now and will let you know when it arrives.