1957 Chevy truck re-rebuild

[ChuckDriver]

Very cool!

[greystoke]

that looks fantastic Jim, I've looked over your build thread and love the way you approach things. I don't know if it was mentioned but what kind of taillights are those?

[Russell Ashley]

That looks great. But then, we have come to expect greatness from you, LOL.

[Stepside Jim]

For just a 1/8" stripe it really made a huge difference. I started with 1/4" but realized it was too wide for the effect I was looking for.

greystoke, the tail lights are actual 1957 Chevy truck tail lights. They are however the LED upgrades. By going with the LED's they require less space than the bulb type and fit within the space better as far as depth was concerned.

Greatness.... hmmmmm, As I mentioned before, I don't know if I'm doing anymore major projects like this again, I figure I'm gonna lay it all on the line with this one.

So far I'm glad I am and thanks everybody for checking in. Jim

[longbike]

Wow that is a shiny firewall, looks great!

[tune_1]

I really enjoy you posts and your comments on how and why you did something. Like the way the dash turned out. I can use that idea on the pinstripe.

Dwight

[Stepside Jim]

Thanks longbike, I knew it wasn't going to be easy, but it was worth the effort.

tune_1, it's almost like going to school, I only wish school was this fun...... fun, what am I talking about, this can be boring as can be at times, we just have to believe the effort will pay off in the long run. Thanks for checking.

I've got the whole dash sanded and buffed. I did the glove box door by itself. My second dog was jealous that she didn't get into the picture last time so once I finished sanding and buffing it I got her picture also.


Just a little on my order of progress.... I could have painted the firewall and dash both at the same time but I'm dealing with time issues.

Plan ahead.... I know it's gonna take hours to "cut and buff". I want to cut and buff 24 hours after painting. In 24 hours the sanding cooperates great, I can use 2000 grit paper. The buffing will remove the sand scratches quickly. As the paint hardens, the sand scratches are still buffable, it just takes more effort to remove them. Now, with working around all the edges, I sometimes have to finish buffing by hand, the softer paint is easier to work with.

Plus I have to deal with working around my work schedule, that blocks huge chunks of the day that the clear is drying and I can't sand and buff.

So by doing this in sections I don't feel the urgency to rush, I have time to fully finish an area before moving to the next area.

[Kim57]

Nice and shiny.
Kim

[Stepside Jim]

Well I was hoping to skip the cut and buff on the dash, ha, who am I foolin', I'm gonna cut and buff, it's the ultimate finish. Was it easy? no, patience, patience. I really had to be careful around all the edges, then the same with the buffing.

I'm getting excited to get all the chrome knobs and radio installed but for now I can enjoy the dash as is.

I view of the top of the dash.


I've gone back and looked at the pictures from a year ago with the maroon, what a difference.


Another showing the welding of the radio face plate, covering the ash tray, heater plate and putting in a spot for another switch on the far side.


With the black color I'm getting a serious attitude in the cab, I'm also looking forward to getting all the vinyl, chrome and stainless steel.

I did install the lighter to get an idea of the reflection that the chrome knobs will create.


Before and after pics can sure be a boost in motivation.

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by Stepside Jim

Before and after pics can sure be a boost in motivation.

for all of us LKING good

[Stepside Jim]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

for all of us LKING good

ahhh, a double smiley face, thans _Ogre.

Looking at the last picture the glove box looks like it has a terrible sag/runs coming down from the red stripe. I am having a heck of a time trying to get pictures that will show the finish without pulling in a reflection that gives a false impression, such as the phantom sag/runs.

This is another angle of the glove box yet, it itself is trying to pull in the reflection of the drivers side gray door jam and once again, distorting the image, but no sags/runs.


Ok, I feel better...

[Kim57]

Looks great.
Kim

[Stepside Jim]

Last year I cleaned and primed the hood. Once the primer dried I went to block sanding.

The first thing I noticed was the metal in the center off the hood flexing, some call it oil canning. I've read others having the same issue. With the hood being about the last main part to be blocked I have to deal with it.

I don't know if there is a fix available but I have to do something.

I started with a drawing for size and dimension.


I don't follow every line I draw but it gives me a good idea of where I want to go with the final design.


The front mounting holes were all ready there, in the back I had to drill two holes and insert these expanding nuts.


My goal was to have the brace hover about a 1/4" above the hood after I bend and shaped the brace.



I cut some rubber spacers and slid them between the brace and the hood.


Later I'll paint the brace and glue the rubber spacers in place but for now I'm able to get back to block sanding the hood without it trying to change shape as I'm working on it.

[greystoke]

an excellent way to solve the problem. There was a post about a similar situation in the body and paint section which turned to using a shrinking disc to alleviate the stretched area.

[_Ogre]

do the 57 hoods have any stock bracing in them? my 58 hood has the X brace and a center brace to minimize oil canning. though i may borrow you idea and add some bracing to mine. above 70 mph my whole hood starts to flex and move in the center section. sort of like watching a lava lamp

it was quite startling at first. around 100 mph you'd think all the paint would fly off.



here is the best pic i could find of the underside of my hood
i used a medium density foam rubber under the center support in the factory locations

[Stepside Jim]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

do the 57 hoods have any stock bracing in them? my 58 hood has the X brace and a center brace to minimize oil canning. though i may borrow you idea and add some bracing to mine. above 70 mph my whole hood starts to flex and move in the center section. sort of like watching a lava lamp

it was quite startling at first. around 100 mph you'd think all the paint would fly off.


here is the best pic i could find of the underside of my hood
i used a medium density foam rubber under the center support in the factory locations

After I made mine I noticed a 58 or 59 that had not only the x brace that the 57 has but I noticed you guys also have the support that follows the hood as yours does in the picture.

I'm fairly new to these trucks but have read where others have had the same high speed hood issues you mentioned..... 100 mph, well perhaps they only like 75 or 80.

My issues where simply black sanding and I said to myself, this just ain't gonna happen, I'm not dealing with a flexing hood. So as I usually do, I sought a solution.

Since this picture I found on Amazon a sheet of 1/4" adhesive backed foam rubber. I'd like to follow much of my brace with the foam rubber. I'm thinking I should be in good shape when all is done.

[Stepside Jim]

Pretty well finished fitting most of the interior back together. I'm getting excited to getting this on the road.

The cup holders still get a coating on the insides of satin black, the upper rings will stay chrome. The stainless trim on the floor tunnel is not pushed in all the way but otherwise it is how it's gonna be.


Next on the list is taking care of the brake system. I have to install an adjustable proportioning valve and the line lock. I decided to locate the items under the master cylinder.

With proper plumbing I will have it where the rear brake lights will turn on when the line lock is working also.

I cut one plate, then decided I wanted every thing tucked up tighter under the master cylinder, so I cut the second one on the left that brought everything closer.


This should get me what I'm looking for.


Everything mounted in place.


Master cylinder, line lock, proportioning valve, check.

[Kim57]

Pretty slick fix.
Kim

[ChuckDriver]

Very nice!

[rgunlock]

Nice fix on the hood. Those expanding nuts look like they came in handy. Do you recall where you got them? Are they pretty good about not spinning in the hole as you tighten the bolt?

[Stepside Jim]

Originally Posted by rgunlock

Nice fix on the hood. Those expanding nuts look like they came in handy. Do you recall where you got them? Are they pretty good about not spinning in the hole as you tighten the bolt?

Yes they were very cooperative. I did put just a touch of anti-seize on the bolt to be remove some possibility of it spinning, but otherwise, worked great. In this situation there is only a downward pull on it verses a twisting movement, I feel confident in this situation. If it did have a twisting movement against it I would perhaps be concerned.

The part number is NAPA, 665-1059, small bag of 4 on the rack of small body clips and such.

A couple of posts back I sand blasted and painted the door hinges, now to assemble with new bushings and pins from Classic parts.

Surprisingly the original bushings were plastic, I never would have guessed they would have used plastic. Hmmm.

One worn bushing.


New parts, old parts.


I used the vise and a socket to assemble.


All done. I did all 4 with no problems. The pin probably fits other vehicles and uses the E clip slot, the pin slightly pressed into place, not needing a clip to hold it in.

[Kim57]

Hinges look real nice.
Kim

[dug224]

Nice design on the hood brace. May have to steal the design. Just tried to reuse my hood cross brace. It hits the 5.3 which I expected. Yours would easily clear.

[Stepside Jim]

Originally Posted by dug224

Nice design on the hood brace. May have to steal the design. Just tried to reuse my hood cross brace. It hits the 5.3 which I expected. Yours would easily clear.

dug224, I looked at the X brace for a solution also for some time, just in my head I couldn't see it looking proper.

Working some over time at work and just trying to get through all the odds and ends, progress is slow but moving forward.

I choose to keep the original tank location, yet I didn't want to trust the original tank so I ordered a new one. Then just to be on the safe side I treated the inside with tank sealant as an insurance for non leakage.

Then scuffing the outside and priming then satin black.


I forgot to take a picture of it painted in the shop, but here it is sitting in place
in the truck.


I'm looking forward to getting the drive train back in place but the transmission needs the longer tail shaft to match the longer adapter for the Gear Vendors over drive that I had to get to accommodate the "X" pipe exhaust system. Yes, there's a song here.... One thing, one thing, leads to another.

One Turbo 350 ready for a new tail shaft.


One Turbo 350 with a tail shaft sticking out the rear about 3'' extra, just what I needed. The tail shaft housing will be removed as the adapter will be replacing it later.


Putt, putt, surely but slowly I really want to see this thing rolling down the road before winter.

[Kim57]

Coming along nicely.
Kim