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#476 | |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,100
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
Quote:
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__________________
Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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#477 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,100
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
Thank you. It wasn't as good as it should have been. I noticed some errors this morning and have had to do some editing and clarifying not to mention just plain spelling corrections. Somehow the needle in my brain skipped to a different track so I misspelled gauge every time. Dhoo!
__________________
Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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#478 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Kirkland, WA
Posts: 1,302
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
I tried to do a regulator bypass recently and bailed because I found that my alternator would constantly put out max voltage. I did not add a resistor as you described. Do you think that could have caused the overvoltage?
__________________
1968 LWB C20 / AC / Wood Bed |
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#479 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,100
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
I would need more information. What model of alternator did you use? How did you convert the wiring? A wiring diagram would help a lot. Some photos of the installation too.
Then for best results I suggest doing a post in the electrical section to get more brains ( and bigger ones than mine) on your problem. I'm confident that the solution can be found. If you post in the electrical section drop me a line and I will drop over there and help out.
__________________
Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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#480 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,100
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
When I have the time I have been plugging away at making some Burban bolts. As everyone knows, (OK not everybody, only the folks who have needed them know) the row of bolts that secure the back edge of the plywood floor are not available, so when Richard 2717 said he bought a hundred of the closest bolt he could find I offered to buy some from him for the WMB. My plan was to turn them down on my lathe, so I needed enough to extra bolts to have some to screw up while I was learning if it was even possible to remachine them into a bolt that would work. Richard2717 being the nice guy he is sent me the whole box and said just to send him a couple sets back. I'm not wanting to bore everyone so I won't go into the details of trying to set up a production line.
But basically it is a two step process to for me to turn them down from the bolt on the left to match the factory bolt on the right. (Photo 1) The steel used in these bolts isn't the greatest quality so that has slowed the process down some. So Richard2717 if your watching I'm making progress.
__________________
Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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#481 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: So. Torrance, CA
Posts: 470
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
Quote:
Woody |
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#482 |
Equal opportunity joke ofender
![]() Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Eastern Shore of MD
Posts: 10,011
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
Looking good. I don't have that kind of patience any longer lol. As I said before no rush on this end at all take all the time needed. I was just glad to find something remotely close.
__________________
Members I have met. Dually Jams, OlBlue60, ScottH, Tommyboy24, Dujobo, Warbucket, 2003 Silverado, Notsolo, my90k5, 6t727t2, Special-K ,Jack_71C10, tabarcus,72blazer_mud_bogger,pwdcougar,RSavage,EricSean,1Rippen6,invicta455,tennaragtop71,arks, Kendal,Bennett68C10, Perpendicular, Chainsawman, McGeesCustomMinis,ShortbedClayton,longblue72,6768chevylover,Tim71,Travisarmenta,Ol' Drippy,fleetmitch,georgieb51,Dave,bcnya2,Dadsburb https://paypal.me/6772GMtruckparts Most women like the strong, silent type… Fortunately for me, my wife prefers the out-of-shape, mouthy type. |
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#483 | |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,100
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
Quote:
![]() Mine has a bunch of holes drilled in it and the edges in the front are getting pretty bad. I would like to get it replaced before the summer ends but we'll see. My Burban doesn't have any chrome strips holding the carpet. The SPID doesn't list any carpeting or mats so that may be why. And the worth fact for the day is: I believe that the actual name for that style of bolt is "Plow Head" bolt.
__________________
Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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#484 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: So. Torrance, CA
Posts: 470
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
Quote:
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#485 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,100
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
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__________________
Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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#486 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,100
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
I got the latest gadget installed! A wide band air/fuel guage made by Innovate. First photo shows the O2 sensors ready for installation after calibration. The instructions were obviously written by someone who is very knowledgeable about the product and assumes everyone knows what they know. So there are gaps in the instructions nothing too terrible but it is definitely not a step by step guide to installation.
This thread by Gregski covers the same guage I purchased. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=713728 The second photo shows it up and running. My initial feelings are good. It seems to be consistent with its readings. It shows my idle ratio to be about 13.4 at start up and within a minute it is at 12.3. When it is idling hot the ratio is 11.8 at the richest. These numbers aren't steady (steady enough not to cause concern) but what my mind is averaging them to be. Obviously I need to lean the idle circuit out but I'm letting things be for now until I get a good handle on how it reacts over time. Once the truck is driving around in high gear the ratio is between 14.3 and 15.8. With it getting leaner as the truck speeds up leading me to believe that the primary side jetting is good but the power piston spring is too soft. I haven't really had any chance to see what the secondary side is doing. The accelerator pump action also seems to be lean, but as this is my first time with a permanently installed A/F meter I may find that I am wrong about that. More to follow.
__________________
Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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#487 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 1,302
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
Quote:
Paul
__________________
"You know that little thing in your head that keeps you from saying things you shouldn't? Yeah well, I don't have one of those" 1969 Mercury Cougar Standard 4 speed 1969 Mercury Cougar XR7 convertible 1970 4WD Chevrolet Suburban 1997 4WD Chevrolet Silverado Extended Cab Short Bed (purchased new January 1997) |
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#488 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,100
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
I thank you sir. We will see how well they actually work.
__________________
Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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#489 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,100
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
Today I started the rear floor replacement. (Actually I started gathering stuff to do this months ago) I wanted to get this done before fall and the rains began again. Not only are there quite a few holes from past accessories but the wood has passed its expiration date, as the photos show. Working alone I started at 11:00 am and quit at 7:30 pm. I got almost all the bolts removed or they are no longer holding the plywood. The exceptions were the two body mount bolts that go through the wood and the 4 bolts that bolt the air tank to the bottom of the floor.
__________________
Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 Last edited by HO455; 09-13-2019 at 02:14 AM. |
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#490 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,100
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
There are 5 different kinds of fasteners (Not counting some of the odd ones that the truck has collected over the years) used to hold the wood down. (Photo 1) Bolts #2 & 3 are used to bolt the spare tire wheel well in.
In addition GM used two kinds of nuts on the bottom, a regular hex style requiring a 1/2" wrench to remove and square stove bolt style nuts that require a 7/16" 8 point socket for removal. Bolt #4 is used around the perimeter of the wood and is the most numerous. I don't have a count yet but, I will get a complete list posted. Bolt #1 is used to fasten the wood to the underside support channels that run from one side of the truck to the other. They don't connect to the frame. These are a carriage style bolt with a large flat head. These bolts are counter sunk below the level of the floor and have a little metal insert under the head of the bolt with a square hole to match the square under the head of bolt. (See photos 2 & 3) I do not know if the metal inserts with the square hole are available so I am hoping that I can reuse all of them. Bolt #5 is used to secure the floor across the back. (Last photos) They go through a light guage angle with stamped countersunk holes with square holes. These bolts are called Plow Head bolts and as far as I know they are not available in the size used on our Burban. There are 12 of the #1 bolt. There are 7 of the #2 bolt ( I think, I can't read my handwriting. Dhoo!) There are 6 of the #3 bolt There are 39 or 40 of the #4 bolt. Mine had 39 but there was a punched hole in the driver's side wheel well that appears to never had a bolt installed. There are 6 of the #5 bolt.
__________________
Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 Last edited by HO455; 09-18-2019 at 11:41 PM. Reason: Changed #1 to 12 bolts. |
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#491 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,100
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
More photos of the angle piece that goes across the back. Unfortunately mine is in less than optimal condition, so I will have to figure something out. Replace or possibly repair it. As of yet I have been unable to remove any of the bolts through it. But i m hoping that soaking in penetrating oil overnight will solve that issue.
About 2/3's of the bolts loosened and then spun in the square hole. This meant I had to hold them on top and turn them from below. After trying several different ideas I ended up grabbing the head from the top with a pair of Vice Grips. I then used a sheet rock style screw to screw the Vice Grips to the floor to keep them from spinning. (Photo #3) Having a helper would have made this much easier and faster. I also found that using an impact on the nut would cause the bolt to slip out of the Vice Grip, but using a ratchet instead allowed me to either unscrew the nut or twist the bolt in two. I kind of cheated on the rear support channel bolts as the air compressor and tank are in the way. I used a hole saw to cut the wood around the bolt away so I can remove the rest of the wood and then deal with those bolts from above. I used a wood jig to hold the hole saw in place as I removed the pilot bit from the hole saw so it wouldn't hit the bolt. (Photo #4) I started by removing the spare tire well. The most difficult part of this was making sure that I didn't strip any of the captured nuts. (Photo #5 the bolts through the circular side of the wheel well go to the hidden nuts) These nuts are not accessible short of cutting a hole in the quarter panel. I loosened them a half turn then shot them with penetrating oil then turned them back in to get oil through to the nut. A slow process but no nuts were stripped. ![]()
__________________
Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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#492 |
Equal opportunity joke ofender
![]() Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Eastern Shore of MD
Posts: 10,011
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
Easiest way I have found for removing the bolts is to just drill the heads off and punch them thru. They mostly want to spin and tear up the metal anyway when trying to remove the nuts. I have been able to save a lot of metal repairs to wheel tub flanges and to the front and rear metal connections. It is difficult to get to a few of the spare tire bolt heads but can be done.
__________________
Members I have met. Dually Jams, OlBlue60, ScottH, Tommyboy24, Dujobo, Warbucket, 2003 Silverado, Notsolo, my90k5, 6t727t2, Special-K ,Jack_71C10, tabarcus,72blazer_mud_bogger,pwdcougar,RSavage,EricSean,1Rippen6,invicta455,tennaragtop71,arks, Kendal,Bennett68C10, Perpendicular, Chainsawman, McGeesCustomMinis,ShortbedClayton,longblue72,6768chevylover,Tim71,Travisarmenta,Ol' Drippy,fleetmitch,georgieb51,Dave,bcnya2,Dadsburb https://paypal.me/6772GMtruckparts Most women like the strong, silent type… Fortunately for me, my wife prefers the out-of-shape, mouthy type. |
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#493 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Portsmouth ri
Posts: 363
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
Also helps to get underneath with a wire brush or wheel and clean threads off. Getting plywood out is a multi person job. Do yourself a favor and get some marine grade plywood for the new one
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#494 | |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,100
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
Quote:
The ones on the sides the wood was so degraded that I could pry the head of the bolt up 3/16 to 1/4" and clamp it with the Vice Grip. So I would set five bolts up (Thats how many pairs of Vice Grips I have ![]()
__________________
Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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#495 | |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,100
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
Quote:
![]() I have two sheets of Gator Board I got off Craig's List for the new floor. It is Douglas Fir marine plywood that has a resin non-skid coating on both sides. It is commonly used on docks and ramps.
__________________
Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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#496 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,100
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
After removing the air tank and the body mount bolts it was time to get the old wood out. The little piece in front passenger side corner only took a push and it fell right out. Then I screwed two wood blocks to the remaining big piece. (Photo #1). This allowed me to take the persuader and bump the wood towards the passenger side. (Photo #2) It all went fine until I came up against the rear tire. Curse those wide tires.
![]() The next step was to raise the drivers side up so the piece would then slide out of the back. Those GM engineers didn't leave a lot of extra room to get the floor out. The wood just fits at an angle through the back door/ hatch. I wonder at what stage in the assembly process the wood was installed at the factory. It is hard to believe there was any cost savings for GM by using wood instead of a metal pan. OK back on track. I used some wood clamps in the extend configuration (instead of compression) to push the wood upwards on the drivers side. (Photo #3) with them holding the wood I slowly wriggled the piece out the back, resetting the clamps a couple of times as I came out. As 04lsGTO said having friends would have made this much simpler. Finally success (Photo #4).
__________________
Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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#497 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 1,352
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
Wow! Nice work and fantastic write up!!! Your abs must have really gotten a work out going back and forth so many times. Very creative idea though fastening the vice grips down.
__________________
1967 C10 Suburban 454/TH400/3.07's An Average Joe and His 'Burb: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=775843 |
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#498 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,100
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
Here are the three under the wood supports. (Photos #1 & #2) Actually the front one isn't really a support but it has the cage nuts for the rear seat and its seat belts. I am guessing that a Burban that came with the third row seat would have a different version of this and possibly one for the third seat too. The seats have been in and out of the WMB so many times over the years all threads in the cage nuts are stripped.
The two 2 bolt hole plates in the back support are where the upper part of the body mount bushings contact. I failed to get pictures but I was able to get the bolts out of the rear top plate without damaging it. I had to heat them with my Map gas torch and then grab the bolt with a pair if Vice Grips. While wiggling the bolt with a the pliers I tapped the end with a ball pein hammer.
__________________
Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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#499 |
BlahBlahBlah
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Wa.
Posts: 19,863
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
This thread is one of the reasons that I sometimes think it would be better to have all of our trucks grouped in one area instead of split up. Sure there is some burb specific stuff you are doing, but overall this is just a really good build thread with a ton of great ideas and fixes. Things that everyone, no matter what they are building would benefit from.
Blazers was an area I seldom looked at until I picked up a SWB K10 truck project. My thinking was they would have a similar overall look because the wheel base was so close. There was so much stuff there that pertains to all of our trucks, I wish I would have dug in earlier Thanks for a very good build thread. You are doing a great job! |
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#500 |
Equal opportunity joke ofender
![]() Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Eastern Shore of MD
Posts: 10,011
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
I tend to wonder if it was to help deaden sound since a lot of these did not get any other treatments on top of it.
__________________
Members I have met. Dually Jams, OlBlue60, ScottH, Tommyboy24, Dujobo, Warbucket, 2003 Silverado, Notsolo, my90k5, 6t727t2, Special-K ,Jack_71C10, tabarcus,72blazer_mud_bogger,pwdcougar,RSavage,EricSean,1Rippen6,invicta455,tennaragtop71,arks, Kendal,Bennett68C10, Perpendicular, Chainsawman, McGeesCustomMinis,ShortbedClayton,longblue72,6768chevylover,Tim71,Travisarmenta,Ol' Drippy,fleetmitch,georgieb51,Dave,bcnya2,Dadsburb https://paypal.me/6772GMtruckparts Most women like the strong, silent type… Fortunately for me, my wife prefers the out-of-shape, mouthy type. |
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