Rat repair.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by franken

Any sheetmetal from outside the US (that means almost all of it) will have been rolled to thickness in millimeters, not tenths/thousandths of an inch (or gauge) so unless it's a lucky accident, the thickness of original and aftermarket sheet will be slightly different.

They don't have steel mills in Taiwan rolling out metal to meet US scpec, and they aren't buying the steels from the US.

That said, if you take the time to cut a section of original and aftermarket metal dress an edge and measure, they'll be pretty close in most cases.

Thanks for the info Franken! and welcome to my thread.

[swamp rat]

Thanks Molberg!

Keep in mind everyone these panels are for the Rat and not the 67, i'm just keeping busy with the other cab till i get the rat out of the tranny shop sometime next week. I think doing the doors worry me worse than the rest of it.

[Molberg]

Lay the repair panel over the old one and trace with a paint marker. Only cut out what u need to. Draw reference lines/measurements on the panel outside the repair area helps too. (Eg... 6" to door edge). With the door skins... I grind the return bend on the edge of the old skin all the way through around the door edge... It comes right off easily. Then grind off the strip left spot welded to the door tub. Take lots of measurements... Draw lots of reference lines. You've got skills to get this far. You'll get it. Weld slow.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by Molberg

Lay the repair panel over the old one and trace with a paint marker. Only cut out what u need to. Draw reference lines/measurements on the panel outside the repair area helps too. (Eg... 6" to door edge). With the door skins... I grind the return bend on the edge of the old skin all the way through around the door edge... It comes right off easily. Then grind off the strip left spot welded to the door tub. Take lots of measurements... Draw lots of reference lines. You've got skills to get this far. You'll get it. Weld slow.

Thanks for the door tips!

If i have to go up to the body line on the door, would you recommend cutting right on the sharp bend or just above or below it by a given amount?

[Molberg]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Thanks for the door tips!

If i have to go up to the body line on the door, would you recommend cutting right on the sharp bend or just above or below it by a given amount?

I'd keep above or below the feature line minimum 3-4" if you can IMO. Stitch weld slow. I seldom use the entire patch panel. Trace, cut and trim panel to fit whats needed. I had to use the entire cab corner. Previous owner had a set brazed in. Warping was real bad. Not fun doin bodywork inside the features on the rear of the cab. I'm by no means a pro.

[swamp rat]

I followed Vic's advice and removed the outer cowel sections instead of trying to remove the whole cowl, i knew it wasn't going to be pretty but i wasn't expecting a gaping hole in the seam, knew the seams were rusty but....

This is one job where i really wish i had a shrinker and stretcher! but its not in the budget, not sure how i'm gonna form some of these pieces yet.

Haven't looked at it yet but tomorrow i'm gonna try and pull the dash, no idea if they bolt on and off or welded in...

[gdavis]

Vic is a good man, he want steer you wrong. I had to ask his stuff in the pass. Good luck with the project.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by gdavis

Vic is a good man, he want steer you wrong. I had to ask his stuff in the pass. Good luck with the project.

I've read both of Vic's threads, nothing short of impressive!

I hope you find a windshield guy that understands these trucks pretty soon!

[Molberg]

Nice progress btw...

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by Molberg

Nice progress btw...

Thanks again for the comps and advice!

If any of you see something i could do differently that may be better I'm all ears, I'm just learning as i go.

[swamp rat]

Today i got the dash out, i took my time to try and leave as much meat on the dash flange as possible, then i broke out my acid respirator and filled a spray bottle with Muratic acid and doused everything i could with the stuff, i didn't continually reapply it, really didn't have time today. hosed it all off about 4 hours later. I got to say i absolutely love that respirator and would never do any acid work without it, tried it once and felt the after affects for about 3 days.. duh

I know this is no substitute for sand blasting, just want to get the rust in check and this is the first step. still need to do the rockers but this cab is still on my trailer and the side rails are kinda in the way, need to prop it up on some timbers, that will continue next week, i need a fun weekend..

Here's a couple pic's, first the inside where the dash mounts, note its rusted thru just below the antenna hole, least i think that is the antenna hole, i just noticed the same hole on the other side. And a couple pic's of the rain gutter, dirty but 99.98% still sealed.

[swamp rat]

Oh, I ordered a set of floor pans today, the place i ordered from ( in Wa. ) said they only stock what they use, usually Tri Plus, Key Parts or Dayco, he said what they have in stock right now is Dayco so that what i'll be getting.

First I called the place i ordered the other panels from when i got the 20% discount, all he could tell me was they were made overseas, couldn't tell me what brand at all so i decided to call elsewhere

He said they tried Tabco floor pans and they were really bad.. Humm, i know a Washington state guy that makes a side living on these trucks and he just posted that he liked the Tabco floor pans and a few other of their parts but not the rockers.

[swamp rat]

Last post for a bit, Earlier I posted here on the forum and the local Facebook page looking for a patch panel for around the heater and drip rail, had one no luck hit on this forum, but within about 3 hours i had a positive hit on Facebook, he lives about 15 minutes from me, grabbed a few tools and took off, came home with this, still not perfect but i think between the two i can make a good part.

[Dean'smeanmachine]

nice find!

[swamp rat]

Back on post 483 i mentioned i needed a fun weekend, had a great time but it was HOT! road the bikes down to Eastern Oregon on Friday with a bunch of friends and came back on Sunday, About 8 hours each way when you include gas stops and lunch. Also took today off to catch up on my rest and run some errands, back to the grind tomorrow..

Stopped and the transmission shop and the guy said they had to replace my tranny case, he said the inside where the packs ect engage were worn out, this was what was causing my tranny to bang when it was shifted into reverse, i had previously tried messing with the modulator with no luck. I didn't bother asking him about cost even tho it came to mind, it also raised a question about why he didn't call me about it first but i let it slide for now but hoping there won't be a B.S move on there part to screw me over..

Found this nice little chevy truck when in eastern oregon, kinda wished i could have driven it home!

[Dean'smeanmachine]

awesome truck!

[gdavis]

I like the rat mobil parked on the street. It looks home to me, good luck with the cowl repair

[cmabolt]

that's a hell of parts truck. I wouldn't mind running that down to the store for some spark plugs!

Bummer about the tranny, but i guess it'll be right now. Nice to know what is wrong as apposed to wondering. Keep up the good work.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by cmabolt

that's a hell of parts truck. I wouldn't mind running that down to the store for some spark plugs!

Bummer about the tranny, but i guess it'll be right now. Nice to know what is wrong as apposed to wondering. Keep up the good work.

Life go's on, i knew the tranny needed work, actually for a number of years but didn't have it done.

Still don't have the truck back from the shop, he said it should be done sometime today so i told him i'd probably have to pick it up Saturday.

Admittedly i haven't done anything all week, its been hot and have been enjoying a break, my feet and legs are thanking me!

I did get the floor pans Tuesday, still haven't opened the box yet.

I have been thinking about the other cab for the 67, thinking its probably a lot easier to run a Vintage air system than trying to rebuild and repair the stock setup, but i am not sure about all the firewall mods that would need to be done, don't want to spend a lot of time repairing the fan mount if its not necessary, not sure if it is necessary at this point. if anybody has or remembers a thread with an AC cab/Vintage air conversion i'd like to read about it, the Vintage air instructions didn't show the heater fan area in the firewall mod. I also need to find out if a Vintage air system will work with an Inline 6 250. My plan has been to rebuild the 6 on this truck.

Also debating if i should buy a system for my Rat, its non AC.

[NONHOG]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

My plan has been to rebuild the 6 on this truck. (1)

Also debating if i should buy a system for my Rat, its non AC. (2)

1) Cool! something special about seeing a six still powering a classic.
2) Tough week to decide if you want air or not? LOL

[gdavis]

looking good. It looks like you got a few broken springs on your seat. Too much pressure on that vise man. It must be all the mussels you have. When I was working on my firewall I remover the old heater box and plugged up the holes. I also will be adding a vintage heat and air in the future. I just don't want to be bothered with a old set up with old problems. Now all I need to do is drill two or three holes to run my lines inside the cab. Thinking ahead.

[swamp rat]

The tranny shop called and left a message on my cell when i was driving to work yesterday, its done so i got to go get it tomorrow hopefully.

A question for all the bodymen around here:

I need to do rockers, floor, lower A pillars ect. also need to rebuild my hinges and do door repair.

Where should i start? Doors? or body? I'm guessing doors.

[Molberg]

Start with door hinges for sure if needed. (Pins and bushings) that way your door is set solid when aligning your gaps. I did my doors last... Just because I had them on and off a dozen times and didn't want to risk damaging fresh doors. My lower skins were still intact so I had a line to go with.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

I need to do rockers, floor, lower A pillars ect. also need to rebuild my hinges and do door repair. Where should i start? Doors? or body? I'm guessing doors.

IMO, if the doors are OEM and in relatively decent shape, I'd rebuild the hinges first, then re-install and adjust them to get nice gaps all around. Scribe lines to mark the hinge placement then remove a door and do the rockers and lower pillars on that side. Use the door as a guide to make sure the replacement pieces line up. Move to the other side and repeat. Do doors last.

If metal repair was previously attempted and butchered, all bets are off and the answer is, "It depends". You have to decide what to use as the base for the current repairs.

[Molberg]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

IMO, if the doors are OEM and in relatively decent shape, I'd rebuild the hinges first, then re-install and adjust them to get nice gaps all around. Scribe lines to mark the hinge placement then remove a door and do the rockers and lower pillars on that side. Use the door as a guide to make sure the replacement pieces line up. Move to the other side and repeat. Do doors last.

If metal repair was previously attempted and butchered, all bets are off and the answer is, "It depends". You have to decide what to use as the base for the current repairs.

^^^ Vic nailed it