Wife's 48

[8man]

Thanks Raven! I knew that was the answer but was trying to slide. I'll do it right! I may have to drive it around the block before I tear it down for paint!!

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by dsraven

I always assemble wiring and accy during mock up, mount stuff so screw holes are drilled etc. Then take it all apart for paint but mark stuff for alignment when disassembling so it goes back the same. When putting it back together I always use aviation form a gasket on the screws so they get sealed where they go into the painted holes, that stuff doesnt dry fully so it keeps the rust from forming. I hate drilling into fresh paint so all the mock up stuff is done first, wiring, lights, etc. More work but no surprises after you spend all that money and time on paint. Should use a sealer on wiring grommets etc through firewall anyway but the holes should be there before paint, that's why it's called mock up stage.

I really like aviation form a gasket but it’s like stepping in dog crap. First it’s just on one shoe and even if you just stand there cussing at the dog within minutes it’s all over the place and somehow it just keeps spreading.

[8man]

Assembling the truck to test fit everything.
IMG_0564 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
I got the inner front on, the running boards and the bed. Those fit pretty well. I wrote down my measurements from the first test fit, and it went right back like it was supposed to. With the cab and running boards on I am looking at a spot under the cab for a drop down battery box, unless I change my mind.

IMG_0565 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
Inside I got the VA mock up unit and vent parts installed, the steering column, seat, dimmer switch, E-brake, gas pedal, S10 inside brake pedal and Astro Van hydro master cylinder on the firewall, ignition switch in and a small single throw switch in the hole over the ignition switch (no idea what I'll use it for right now, but didn't want to weld up the hold because of the way the dash is shaped) and a couple of other little things figured out.

Since the hydro proportioning valve is mounted to the unit, I installed it that way. The brake lines come down on top of the inner fender. So I either need to drill two holes to run the brake lines through, which might make sense, or rebuild where the proportioning valve mounts so the lines can go in without cutting the inner fender. I'm leaning toward drilling some holes and then putting a plastic spacer (no, again I don't know what they are called, but they are used wherever wires go through the sheet metal) around the line.

I did spend some time looking at the switches and door conduit to run electrical to the doors as I've been adding holes wherever I need them. I have not made a decision on switches yet, but I did a separate thread on this to see what ideas others have on the subject.

I've been taking notes on the one person assembly method. That is to help me reassemble once it has paint. I am not ready to tackle the front fenders or hood quite yet. Luckily I have long arms or it would not be this far along.

Anyway, I am making some progress.

[dsraven]

are you planning on seam sealer before paint?

[8man]

Yes sir. I just wanted to get it primed so I could test fit it all after I changed the plan for the motor and tranny. Seam sealer will be next, after all the fitting.

[OutlawDrifter]

Good work, don't worry about the blue oval stuff...at least its not out of a MOPAR!

[8man]

Thanks Outlaw. My Dad and brother are huge Mopar guys. They have never understood my Chevy habit.

[joedoh]

grrrrreat stuff! I love MAXI fuses, easy to see and change.

[8man]

Thanks Joe. You are right about the maxi fuses.

[NorCalGal]

Holy moly Robert looks like you're passing me up! I need the step up my game.

[8man]

Thanks Jan, but no. I'm test fitting stuff and laying out wires to see where I need to holes, so I've got a long way to go.

[NorCalGal]

I haven’t even laid my harness out. I am NOT looking forward to that job.

[8man]

Jan, I'll trade you. I'll do the wiring on your truck and you can do the paint on mine.

[NorCalGal]

No way Jose!

[8man]

Yeah, I thought that might change your mind about wiring!

[8man]

I've been busy checking stuff out. Today I replaced the rear E-brake cables. I think I got the wrong right side. I'll get more into that tomorrow.

I will post this again, Thank You Joedoh! I rechecked the wheel lugs and you are correct, they are metric. That 1/2" x 20 went on so easy, but it wasn't the right size. Luckily I didn't tighten it down as I just put them on so it would roll.

I've been checking some wiring stuff. I used some through the sheetmetal lugs for major power and ground stuff. I ran it through the inner fender. No pic yet. This will allow me to add power under the hood if I need to and I'll have a place to attach battery cables since I mounted the battery box under the cab on the frame. Pictures when the cab comes back off.

Then I got some contacts for the power locks on the doors. I read Ogre's and JoeDoh's write ups on where they put stuff on trucks and this is where they went.

IMG_0576 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

A closer view.
IMG_0577 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

NO, that weather strip is NOT going back, it is there to provide some reference for installing the switches.

And now the door.
IMG_0578 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

I grabbed the multimeter, checked them out and all is good! I now have power to the doors and the dome light has a door ground switch.

I know someone will see the pitting on the door. It was blasted prior to prime and is still solid. It'll be skimmed prior to final paint.

[OutlawDrifter]

Good work...I may end up having to put a door jamb switch on my '49!

[joedoh]

outstanding!

[8man]

I'm waiting on some parts to come in, and I've been looking at the inner fenders on the truck, and I don't like the way they fit. They were cut up for a Camaro front sub on one of the trucks, and they are just way off the frame.

This is what I have.
IMG_0583 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

You can see how rough they are cut above the frame, and that is the best angle to make it close. What the picture doesn't show is that when they were cleaned up, those rust pock marks you can see, a lot of them are see through.

Then I just cut this one and put it on.
IMG_0585 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

This one is a maximum of 2.5" above the frame and closer in most places. I have about 1" clearance for the header, is that enough?

I'm having to do some cutting and welding on the riders side. Some of the nuts were pulled out when getting them off the truck. So I'm repairing that before I cut it for a test fit.

[8man]

I had an E-brake issue, the rear cables I got were not the right ones for the ZR2 axle with the drum brakes. So I ordered a third cable. NO JOY!

So Tempest mentioned I needed to just make them. Thank you for that suggestion. So I did.

I had the threaded end on the rider's rear cable, and I knew I didn't need it there, so I cut it off. I am using an Infiinity press release brake pedal and it had a cable on it that ran almost to the gas tank. So I cut it off.

I just happened to have a piece that was hollow on one end and the same thread as the piece I cut off. So...
IMG_0586 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

I hooked up the brake pedal, mounted the line under the cab, hooked it to the new shorter rear cables and I now have an E-brake!

[Tempest67]

All Right, I am glad one of my ideas worked for you.

Here is what I did with the cut lower edges of the inner fenders. I purchased the black plastic 'door edge' molding from a local parts store and attached it to help 'clean up' the cut edge.......


like this

https://www.amazon.ca/MYFAMIREA-Guar...l-text&sr=1-16

[joedoh]

nice problem solving, way to think on your feet (and with a little push from tempest!)

[Gregski]

she's coming along nicely, sorry if I missed it, but how are you handling the steering column lower bracket? are you mounting it on the inside of the cab or on the outside, a close up pic would be helpful?

[8man]

I pulled the column out last week, but I will get you a pic of the bracket I'm using on the lower end of the column where it goes to the firewall. I had one from a Wagoneer that I "formed" a little to fit the contour of the firewall.

[8man]

OCD kicked in again. I've been working on the truck, but got sidetracked by "stuff I haven't thought of before". I read where Joe built the cab light, and since I'm going to use the door switch as the ground circuit to turn the cab light (and the two under dash courtesy lights) on and off, I thought I should give that some thought.

The cab light I have has a broken switch, but the tongue is still in tact. So I removed the old light socket from the housing.

IMG_0622 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
Here is the housing with the old socket removed and the "new" socket I'm going to use. This is a turn/park light from the Jeep, and if I hook both wires up, one as a ground and one as power it lights up. However, I had to insulate the new socket from the housing, because otherwise it was grounded like our old light and the turn light would come on. So out with some electric shrink tape and it was insulated.

IMG_0623 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

I know, I know, I left out the step where I removed the housing that held it in place while it was a turn/park light and where I trimmed around the head, but you can see that was done.

Then I put it together and I now have a working ground activated cab light.

IMG_0624 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Now back to other stuff I should be doing, unless something else catches my attention.