Project "Just an Old Truck"

[shawno72]

Originally Posted by BucksSS

Well, with this government sequester thing looming I might have some spare time on my hands. My visit might be sooner than later!

Hey make it in April and you can do the C/10 Club BBQ with us
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[PBFAB.COM]

The addco bar that we sell is 1.25 od. they make it special for us.....at least that's what they tell us!

Nate
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[C10_ustacould]

Originally Posted by Porterbuilt Street Rods

The addco bar that we sell is 1.25 od. they make it special for us.....at least that's what they tell us!

Nate
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Thanks Nate maybe I'll order one with the trailing arm crossmember we are discussing.

[C10_ustacould]

If you look at the lever that bolts to the shaft on the transmission you'll see it's sloted allowing the distance from the fulcrum (pivot point) to increase or decrease. I think if I spend some time tinkering with this adjustment I could get the shift indicator to be fairly accurate. But for know park and drive will do.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by BucksSS

If you look at the lever that bolts to the shaft on the transmission you'll see it's sloted allowing the distance from the fulcrum (pivot point) to increase or decrease. I think if I spend some time tinkering with this adjustment I could get the shift indicator to be fairly accurate. But for know park and drive will do.

OBTW, LOKAR sells a longer rod if the one you have doesn't work. Are you ready to pull a motor Saturday?????

[C10_ustacould]

Yes I am! Gonna send you a PM, check your inbox.

[C10_ustacould]

Tonight I did a little post install rear end check. Topped off the fluid, and reinstalled the 3.5° shims Hart_Rod loaned me, I had a little vibe on the round trip to work today. Going to drive it again tomorrow, hopefully it will check good. Waiting to hear back from the guys at Porterbuilt about a trailing arm crossmember to fix the goofy wheel well issue. If I can get that settled the next big project will be the crossmember and forward arms.

[shawno72]

What kind of vibe are you getting? Ever since the 700 install I get a very light vibe under hard acceleration. Just enough to notice.
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[C10_ustacould]

At around 55-60 it is a mild vibration that you feel in the seat (does that make sense?) and between 60-65 it gets worse. It's not felt in the steering wheel, seems to be isolated to the rear. I had the shims in before the rear end swap and it seemed better, but I wanted to start fresh so I would know what eventually fixes it. I am hopeful that a PB adjustable trailing arm crossmember will do the trick! We'll see.

As for your your truck, I think it is tire shake from all those ponies your trying to put to the pavement!

[C10_ustacould]

Morning drive report... Well, installing the shims seems to have created a new vibration. This is actually a good thing because it gives me something to compare and contrast. The vibration I have been fighting may simply be in the wheel balancing, because it is more of a shudder in the whole truck that eminates from the rear. This new vibration is more of a buzz at 35 and 55. I guess I will remove the shims and see if the new vibration goes away. No matter what, vibration or no vibration, it was a great drive to the job today.

[lolife99]

Have you put an angle finder on the trans and rearend?
Just wondering where you are at.

[C10_ustacould]

The trans was 5° down before I raised the tail shaft about an inch and the rear end was 0°. I am going to have to put it up on the set up blocks tonight and remeasure everything again to varify, if I were to estimate I would think the trans 4° down and the pinion is 3.5° up with the shims. Where I may get into trouble is if the pinion is higher than the transmission (from the ground) causing the angles at each universal joint to exceed the 4° limit.

[shawno72]

Curious to see where you end up degree wise. I have never even messed with the angles of the trans or rear end and its super smooth until I get on it. Even then it's a very slight wiggle in the seat. Prob just leave it be.
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[C10_ustacould]

Originally Posted by shawno72

Curious to see where you end up degree wise. I have never even messed with the angles of the trans or rear end and its super smooth until I get on it. Even then it's a very slight wiggle in the seat. Prob just leave it be.
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If that is all you have I wouldn't sweat it. My problem is that I avoid driving my truck over 60 mph because the vibration worries me...

[C10_ustacould]

Checked my angles and here is what I found. The transmission is 3.5° down, the drive shaft angles up 1.5° toward the pinion, and the pinion is 3.5° up. The transmission output shaft is .500" (1/2") lower than the than the pinion. Total angle at the output shaft is 5° and the total angle at the pinion is 5°.

Based on what I have read there should be no more than 4° total angle at any universal, and the output shaft and pinion angle should be the same (or close). My total angles at each Universal are 1° over the limit, but my output and pinion angles are identical. Are the total angles my issue causing my vibration?

Here are the pics I took, as well as a layout of the angles... Pic 1) Output Shaft 2) Drive Shaft 3) Pinion 4) Angles on paper (helps me visualize)

[lolife99]

If you a re going to swap the trailing arms or trailing arm crossmember,... I would work on it then.
Fixing it now,... may change when you swap parts later.

[C10_ustacould]

Originally Posted by lolife99

If you a re going to swap the trailing arms or trailing arm crossmember,... I would work on it then.
Fixing it now,... may change when you swap parts later.

As always Keith you speak wisely. But, I don't like the new vibration that showed up today so I am going to pull the shims with the hope that it will go away. I just want to be able to drive it until I can swap the trailing arm crossmember. I hope the adjustability offered with the PB unit will allow me to tune the angles and find the sweet spot.
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[lolife99]

Have you driven it much with the rally wheels on it?
I wonder if that would confirm "wheel balance" vs driveline.
I know the shims created a new issue,... just wonder if you should try your rallys before you pull the shims?

[C10_ustacould]

I understand what you are saying... Pondering it.... Not sure the rally's will fit the rear with the long rear end.
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[DIRTY HAIR]

very nice build!

[C10_ustacould]

Originally Posted by DIRTY HAIR

very nice build!

Thanks!
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[C10_ustacould]

Swapped out the "modified" proportioning valve for a CPP disc/disc unit, test drive in the morning.

[C10_ustacould]

Wow! The proportioning valve made a huge difference, $40 bucks well spent.
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[shawno72]

Amazing how everything hinges on those little bugers
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[C10_ustacould]

Originally Posted by shawno72

Amazing how everything hinges on those little bugers
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Yep, after I installed the new one I dug into the old one and found the little valve the CPP instruction said to remove to convert my old one to disc/disc. However, the fluid path for the rear brakes is much larger in the new proportioning valve so it has to be much more efficient. Anyway, it was worth a try!

I snapped a pic on my way out to the truck after my breakfast stop at Whataburger...