Extreme Powder Coating '65 C-10 Shop Truck

[kart34]

Just ordered some RAL 7042 ..

[jimmydean]

Man, that is going to set it off. You said you were shooting video? I look forward to that. I know how well it laid with my ghetto $400 powder gun, can't wait to see it shot proper like.

[jimmydean]

Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy

Jimmy-
Man, I like that color a LOT. It's got a very "industrial" look to it, and that's exactly what I was looking for. I like a matte or satin finish on the chassis. Not a fan of shiney chassis parts on a daily driver, because it looks awful when it gets water spotted or dirty.

What kind of coverage do you get with it? I have a bunch of TIG welded chassis parts, and I don't want to completely bury the welds with powder.

When I shoot chassis parts, I usually double up my coats. In my experience with my setup, I would shoot an even first coat, bake for about 12 minutes to flow the powder, but not fully cure it. Air cool, reshoot over room temp parts (hot powder will cause the second coat to be rough) then bake for about 20. The bottom layer will fuse with the top and the top will cure.

2 layers will not be heavy in the welds. I like to make sure my coats are even and details are visible. I don't like gloss frames, either.

[chevyrestoguy]

When I shoot chassis parts, I usually double up my coats. In my experience with my setup, I would shoot an even first coat, bake for about 12 minutes to flow the powder, but not fully cure it. Air cool, reshoot over room temp parts (hot powder will cause the second coat to be rough) then bake for about 20. The bottom layer will fuse with the top and the top will cure.

2 layers will not be heavy in the welds. I like to make sure my coats are even and details are visible. I don't like gloss frames, either.

That is enlightening. I had no idea that powdered stuff can get 2 coats. I just assumed that you fogged it on once and baked it and it was done. Most of the powdercoat shops in my area don't seem to take it to the level that you do. Everything is treated like it's a production line, and they don't take the time to do it right.

[jimmydean]

Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy

That is enlightening. I had no idea that powdered stuff can get 2 coats. I just assumed that you fogged it on once and baked it and it was done. Most of the powdercoat shops in my area don't seem to take it to the level that you do. Everything is treated like it's a production line, and they don't take the time to do it right.

I built a small setup to do custom stuff for myself and friends and even did some limited production stuff, but all my work with powder has been crazy colors for hard parts like mountain bike frame, quads, suspension parts, that sort of thing. I also have a ton of 2-part powders using a base coat with candy top coat, or metal flakes.

The nice thing about powder is it isn't done until its baked. So you can shoot a frame, see build up in a corner or a weld, just blow on it slightly until the area is uniform, or reshoot to add areas that look light, then bake.

With good product (Tiger makes nice stuff) and good equipment, you can lay powder that looks as good or better than wet paint. But if you drop a wrench on it, you won't cry.

With the equipment Greg has, I can't wait to see the level of detail that frame shows when finished. Best of all it will be wet and wipe!

[Captainfab]

The powder coater I use 2 coats about 95% of the parts, but they do it a little differently. They preheat the parts, pull them out and shoot a medium coat. Let the parts cool some, then another medium coat, and then bake them for about 40 minutes or so depending on the parts. Their powder always holds up very well.

Originally Posted by jimmydean

When I shoot chassis parts, I usually double up my coats. In my experience with my setup, I would shoot an even first coat, bake for about 12 minutes to flow the powder, but not fully cure it. Air cool, reshoot over room temp parts (hot powder will cause the second coat to be rough) then bake for about 20. The bottom layer will fuse with the top and the top will cure.

2 layers will not be heavy in the welds. I like to make sure my coats are even and details are visible. I don't like gloss frames, either.

I think that RAL-7042 will look awesome on that frame

A low gloss on a frame is the way to go IMO.......

[jimmydean]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

The powder coater I use 2 coats about 95% of the parts, but they do it a little differently. They preheat the parts, pull them out and shoot a medium coat. Let the parts cool some, then another medium coat, and then bake them for about 40 minutes or so depending on the parts. Their powder always holds up very well.

I tried a lot of different things and found when I shot the powder onto hot parts, the surface wouldn't be as smooth because of how some powder would melt on impact, then some would sit on top.

Greg, not to hijack your thread, but would you mind sharing the process you'll use for shooting the frame?

[kart34]

Ral 7042 from Tiger is a hi gloss 90 % gloss . Here is how we will coat the frame. We will wash it in our stainless steel 3 stage washer with Fremont 621 phosphate wash. We will seal it with Fremont 439 sealer/ rust protectant. We will then apply Cardinal Gr-533 epoxy primer ... may have to hot flock it too get it in the speed holes... jell the primer.. then topcoat it possibly 2 coats depending how it works in the speed holes. Hot flocking works well.

Final bake 392 degrees for 10 minutes peek metal temp. Watch it when you coat parts hot... hotflocking.... you can really get a high mil. coverage.... which leads to orange peel issues with some lower flow powders.

[chevyrestoguy]

^^^That's great info, and again, I'm just blown away at the steps that the pros use to apply powder.

I'll lock that into my memory banks, and the next time I go to the local shop, I'll ask them if they wash, seal, and prime before they shoot the powder. Also, if they use the heating/cooling process when they're laying down coats.

Most of the stuff I see has excessive mil thickness in the joints, heavy particulates in the powder, and orange peel.

[kart34]

Getting ready to coat today......

[kart34]

We carefully hoisted the C-10 frame onto the trolley system in our shop...it went into the stainless steel washer and washed with Fremont 621 phosphate wash, and rinsed. From this point the frame went into the curing oven to dry and get ready for the next step in the process. The Fremont 439 sealer can be applied hot or cold. This product works very well to also stop flash rusting.


Randy Harris running the Komatsu forklift.... I got to run the hooks... Gary Harris running the washer.

[kart34]

The frame came out of the oven hot, and we then sealed it with Fremont 439 sealer/ rust protectant. The frame will follow the path of the trolley system into the paint booth for a thorough coat of primer GR-533. I am the dude sitting in the shop stool, supervising !!!!!

Bryan Hernandez appling the Fremont 439 sealer... Jesse Hernandez and Tiffany " social media networking manager" Peterson working the video and camera.

[kart34]

All necessary holes are plugged in the frame and start the hot flocking process into the speed holes. Soon the entire frame is coated with primer GR-533 and will move to the curing oven. Dain Schultz and Daryl Bouwman rocked the primer basecoat.

[kart34]

This is the curing oven...these next photos show the hot flocking and this worked very well to coat the space between...and finally the frame complete, smoothly and perfectly primed!!!

[jimmydean]

Damn, can't wait to see some color! I only wish I had your shop! Nice work, that primer looks awesome.

[Captainfab]

That frame is looking very nice. You obviously have a first class powder coating shop. I'm anxiously awaiting to see some color on this frame.

[kart34]

Today we will block out some areas... scuff the chassis... hot flock coat the speed holes... and give it the Tiger Drylac Ral 7042 topcoat.

[chevyrestoguy]

What does the term "hot flocking" mean?

[kart34]

applying the powder when the part is hot ( Hotflocking) ... for hard to coat areas it will melt on impact


blocking out the chassis now will be video taping this PM

[jimmydean]

I never had much luck hot flocking with my home setup. The powder didn't seem to melt fully and left a lot more texture than I was going for. Can't wait to see how that Tiger powder lays with that high speed gun you have.

[kart34]

If it orange peeled ? you need to turn the gun down... added too much material. Did you do a powder mil. reading? We hot flock a lot of our parts because we specialized in big mass ( large) parts (a large heat sink) so you really cannot always wait for the parts to totally cool. .

[kart34]

2010 Gema OptiFlex 100,000 volt. powder gun.

[jimmydean]

Originally Posted by kart34

If it orange peeled ? you need to turn the gun down... added too much material. Did you do a powder mil. reading? We hot flock a lot of our parts because we specialized in big mass ( large) parts (a large heat sink) so you really cannot always wait for the parts to totally cool. .

You know, I never measured how heavy I laid powder other than by sight. I have a good feel for the amount. If I ever get a chance to start on my suspension, I will post up pics of everything in powder. My work is 75% cosmetic, 25% function. Powder, when applied well looks as good as wet paint without the upkeep.My oven is only 4x4x6

[superflysteiny]

looken good

[kart34]

Chassis is in the bake oven... stay tuned !!!!