68 K-10 SWB build thread - project Money Pit...pics galore!

[msgross]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Nice job Mike, glad it went well for you. I liked the factory green for a work truck, but black would be cool too! I think what Laird was saying is the location of the motor mount bolts, you can move them forward 2"...

I was looking at paint chips at the chevy dealer today while the Tahoe had some tranny work. (Damn electronic controlled T/C's! 3rd time in the shop with 39K miles! atleast GM covered it since it's technically outside the warranty now).

I noticed that no 2008 trucks, tahoes or avalanches come in green right now! Only a few cars and vans or Kodiaks... The dark green metallic for vans looked really nice. We have a 15pax painted like that at work, i'll try to snap a pic next time it's washed... I gotta go some kind of green though. All about paying respect/tribute to the original truck.. err, what's left of it now!

[67-72crazy]

keep up the good work.

[msgross]

Originally Posted by 67-72crazy

keep up the good work.

Thanks, I use to live in Morristown, IN and fly out of Shelbyville... small world! We have a few board members in your area...

[Rack Man]

Those body mounts look about right....here's what my original ones looked like off my 70 K-10:



Dan

[msgross]

I should have kept pics of mine, the rubber was actually so rotted that rust chips were inside them...
If you remeber, here was my mount...

[msgross]

For Veterans Day I had breakfast with my daughter at school and then spoke to her class about helicopters...


In between that excitement I took a little time to work on the radiator support. I had it blasted last year and am still working on a little rot that was uncovered. Here are a few pics of the progress... I wish my TSC had 18ga steel. I bought this small piece of 22GA and it's almost to thin for me to weld. Then they have 16GA which is closer to armor plating and hard to bend...

[msgross]

I also bought this cheap spot weld cutter from Harbor Freight, $3. And was suprised how well it works. I should have gotten one earlier...

THis picture shows why I should have scraped my cab and found another from AZ. The hidden rust might come back to haunt me in 10 years, we'll see...

[drivethechevy]

im really envious of where you are with your truck, i am in highschool still so money is tight for me, and i am off to college next fall so my truck is getting a real cheap resto, and im going to have to redo it all once i have the time and money

[msgross]

Originally Posted by drivethechevy

im really envious of where you are with your truck, i am in highschool still so money is tight for me, and i am off to college next fall so my truck is getting a real cheap resto, and im going to have to redo it all once i have the time and money

hey brother, do what you can when you can... keep it driving as long as you can...

THis is my first resto and I admit that I got over my head (my wife still reminds that it "only needed brakes when I bought it")

As far as money, well, I do make a nice living but only put $100 a month towards this build right now. I have made some money with a few junkyard parts and usually get a bonus once a year to keep it moving. But you can do a budget build, I only have about $8K total in this now. Of course I lost track for awhile!

Good luck and keep up on it... THis is far from a "high end" resto but there are some things that I don't want to ever redo...

Do you own all of those trucks in your sig? I sold my new truck and have an old Camry to avoid car payments... The wife gets the new Tahoe so drive 200 yards to pre-school...go figure.

[jlaird]

funny you say that, I just went to TSC looking for 18 ga and found the same as you. The 16 is pretty darn close to the cab sheetmetal though. I've been using it for a couple patches. Its nice to weld too, less chance to blow through.

[CARZ1968]

Great Build thread! Was just browsing for ideas on what to do with my recently acquired 68 k10 burb and switching over to disc brakes, when I came across your thread.I bought it for the wonderful Pennsy winters.The rest in the stable are fair weather vehicles.I'm still a year or two away from teardown,especially after seeing the work involved that you do not consider until you see someone else tear into theirs.Keep up the good work.I'll expect to see it at Carlisle one of these days!I like the idea of staying true to the color even if it is not the most popular these days.My cousin just recently finished his son's 68 and painted it black w/ghost rally stripes!(it was originally green too)I will post pics if I can figure out how to do it.

[msgross]

Originally Posted by jlaird

funny you say that, I just went to TSC looking for 18 ga and found the same as you. The 16 is pretty darn close to the cab sheetmetal though. I've been using it for a couple patches. Its nice to weld too, less chance to blow through.

I picked some up now but used that 22 for my firewall patch. I might end up pulling it back out. Very touchy welding that... I'm still trying to seal up all the small holes, i'm afraid it's to thin after grinding though...

Originally Posted by CARZ1968

Great Build thread! Was just browsing for ideas on what to do with my recently acquired 68 k10 burb and switching over to disc brakes, when I came across your thread.I bought it for the wonderful Pennsy winters.The rest in the stable are fair weather vehicles.I'm still a year or two away from teardown,especially after seeing the work involved that you do not consider until you see someone else tear into theirs.Keep up the good work.I'll expect to see it at Carlisle one of these days!I like the idea of staying true to the color even if it is not the most popular these days.My cousin just recently finished his son's 68 and painted it black w/ghost rally stripes!(it was originally green too)I will post pics if I can figure out how to do it.

welcome, jaross44sr is in your area. I know where a complete dana 44 is right now for $50 if you need one. the faq section tells how to post pictures. THey need to be resized... easiest way is to open a photobucket.com account and upload there, then copy the IMG link to your text here....

[msgross]

Got to work on the cab again this weekend. Sourkraut (John) came over to check out the project and peek at a tailgate that I have. Nice guy and his kids were very well behaved. John, you son is pretty smart on cars for a 9 year old... heck he knows more than my wife does (no comment).....

Worked on the driver side rot that is under the vent area....

[msgross]

Also got to do some initial grinding and I finally have a B-pillar!

After the PO hacked the old stuff out and relied on rockers for support i'm glad to see how nice this pieces went in... I wish that they had the contour to fit the rocker like originals....

What's the best thing to seal up weld seam that are difficult to get 100% tight? Ins't there some kind of "metal bondo" type stuff to skim? Just wondering... I need to weld a few more holes closed then grind it all smooth again...

Also started initial fitting of my Tabco cab corners. I'm gonna try to leave the original body line and weld the cab corner below that area...

[sourkraut]

Originally Posted by msgross

Got to work on the cab again this weekend. Sourkraut (John) came over to check out the project and peek at a tailgate that I have. Nice guy and his kids were very well behaved. John, you son is pretty smart on cars for a 9 year old... heck he knows more than my wife does (no comment).....

Worked on the driver side rot that is under the vent area....

Thanks for the compliment! I had just read this post to Jr. and he is all braces! You made his day, Mike!
You got more work done on your truck today than I was able to dream about mine! I really like that whole floor deal and think that is the way Iam going to go! More money but lots less work! Thanks again. Keep up the good work!

[msgross]

Didn't get any work done but am starting to look at getting my dodge buddy buckets redone, or fixed. Need to alter the end brackets so that it will mimick the chevy buckets and bolt onto the floor.

Anyone with chevy buddy's want to measure their end brackets for me so that I can get a set bent up? thanks...

[sourkraut]

Are you going to completely recover or just try and fix what is there? Also dont forget that if you need help bending up the metal to let me know!

[msgross]

don't know... depends on what it will take to fix what's there... I don't mind the black vinyl with the lines... but i'm not gonna spend $200 to fix the old when all new is $400 or something...

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by msgross

Also got to do some initial grinding and I finally have a B-pillar!

After the PO hacked the old stuff out and relied on rockers for support I'm glad to see how nice this pieces went in... I wish that they had the contour to fit the rocker like originals....

What's the best thing to seal up weld seam that are difficult to get 100% tight? Ins't there some kind of "metal bondo" type stuff to skim? Just wondering... I need to weld a few more holes closed then grind it all smooth again...

Also started initial fitting of my Tabco cab corners. I'm gonna try to leave the original body line and weld the cab corner below that area...

Nice work on the "B" post Mike! Your welding has improved with practice...I bought so Lab metal, 20 bucks a pint, with the same thoughts of filling in the little holes. I haven't tried it yet, but you can, and LMK.

I agree with you on keeping the cab patch below the body line, start at the back of the door, as this gap will be the most obvious. Rest is hidden by the bed...Thanks for posting up pics. to entertain me

[msgross]

thanks, i'm still cautious on melting through so I am doing 500 tack welds on pieces. I need to start running some short beads on the sheetmetal next. Not enough to overheat but enough to prevent 500 little pinholes!

I'll have to look that stuff up. I've just been grinding and then going back with the welder to seal up the pinholes. Helps to hold a light behind the panel and see the "stars"...

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by msgross

thanks, i'm still cautious on melting through so I am doing 500 tack welds on pieces. I need to start running some short beads on the sheetmetal next. Not enough to overheat but enough to prevent 500 little pinholes!

I'll have to look that stuff up. I've just been grinding and then going back with the welder to seal up the pinholes. Helps to hold a light behind the panel and see the "stars"...

Whichever way you did it, it looks good and strong...don't knock success

[sourkraut]

Well, Mike looks like I am going to go the whole floor route I had taken out the gas tank and have holes under there! Also remember us discussing the "L" brackets I have them also so that will help you when you put it in my new floor pan!

[lvschevytrucks]

Mike, I just finished reading your thread from start to present, you are doing a great job. Being a relocated New Yorker I too know about that RUST. (Love my Yankees, and how about them Giants!!!!) I just wanted you to know you are an insperation to all of us to get off our duffs and get something done on our trucks, mine has been sitting now for way to long. Its a 1987 Scottsdale 4x4 SWB and its covered in cancer, Ive stripped it down to the frame, and done what I could, but Im working outside as my garage is an 8x10 with a regular door on it Its great to put the tools but thats about it. and the driveway is sand, dont dare using jack stands..... anyway keep up the great work ....look forward to seeing your done Randy

[msgross]

Originally Posted by sourkraut

Well, Mike looks like I am going to go the whole floor route I had taken out the gas tank and have holes under there! Also remember us discussing the "L" brackets I have them also so that will help you when you put it in my new floor pan!

when WHO puts your floor in? You're the welder! You know that you can buy that back piece now... it's about half the price of the new floor and a lot more welding...

Originally Posted by lvschevytrucks

Mike, I just finished reading your thread from start to present, you are doing a great job. Being a relocated New Yorker I too know about that RUST. (Love my Yankees, and how about them Giants!!!!) I just wanted you to know you are an insperation to all of us to get off our duffs and get something done on our trucks, mine has been sitting now for way to long. Its a 1987 Scottsdale 4x4 SWB and its covered in cancer, Ive stripped it down to the frame, and done what I could, but Im working outside as my garage is an 8x10 with a regular door on it Its great to put the tools but thats about it. and the driveway is sand, dont dare using jack stands..... anyway keep up the great work ....look forward to seeing your done Randy

Thanks Randy, I don't know about getting off my duff since I spend most of the free time on the computer putzing around! I need to get out in the garage more... some guys on here are machines and would have had this project done a long time ago... I just can't cover up the problems on this truck... feels "wrong" if you know what I mean...

As far as local stuff, i've been in PA for three years now and HAD to be a Yankees fan, as my father-in-law! And i'm still a die hard Colts fan since they moved to Indy when I was a kid... Thanks again and hopefully this things will look like a truck again by spring...

[67ChevyRedneck]

Originally Posted by msgross

I was looking at paint chips at the chevy dealer today while the Tahoe had some tranny work. (Damn electronic controlled T/C's! 3rd time in the shop with 39K miles! atleast GM covered it since it's technically outside the warranty now).

If you don't mind me asking, just exactly what was it doing?

Reason I ask is that the TC in new vehicles is "funny." I learned the hard way (felt stupid after) with my silverado. The first week I started driving it in really cold weather the TC was acting up. It wouldn't lock in OD. It turns out that the computer won't let the TC lock until the transmission has reached a certain operating temp (I think 160 degrees) so it will feel like the TC is slipping or not engaging in 4th gear. It will do this until the trans is warm. To "fix" this slight annoyance, I drive in 3rd in the winter until she gets up to temp, not usually more than 5 or 6 minutes.

Truck is coming along great