Project: Tow-Rat (Lil' Blue)

[6DoF]

i didn't read the fine print, the bold print, or even look at the pictures

so i got the shifter stub rebuild kit cuz i thought mine was SUPER blown out, just ordered what was available. turns out my stick was RTV'd to the stick-side stub and that sleeve is super wallowed out. this would be the source of my sloppy, wet noodle feeling shift. after reading up on both styles, i think i'll re-use the bolt-on stub, the stick stub bolted to it, and then weld on a whole new stick bent to perfection for my hand.

[Dieselwrencher]

Man, they sure know when non shooting time is don't they? I'm surprised that handle didn't come off in your hand with just rtv holding it. That just goes to show how strong some of that was back in the day.

[6DoF]

trying to consolidate parts laying everywhere so i got the 12v/nv5600 together for good. removing the rear cover to replace the rear main seal on the bench is super nice. dual disk clutch is crazy heavy though! can you imagine spinning a small child up to 4000RPM??!?!? that'll takes some HP away from the tires. the mid plate alone weights more than the jeep flywheel! got the coated valve covers and oil pan on before slipping the trans into place. engine crane trans install ... when your trans weights more than some engines :facepalm:

i'm worried about the length of the Lokar dipstick, i might have to take it apart and shorten the sleeve. that's a job for after installed and proper oil added though. also broke the factory block heater, so it had to be removed. trying to pry it out i punched the manifold 3x in a row ... almost threw tools thru the windshild of the wife's 'vette ... and decided this was a spectacular time to go in for a snack and watch some TV.

and speaking of the wife, she even offered to help this weekend! put her to work sanding out the inside of the cab to prep it for sound spray and primer. i guess i really do need to paint it all now ...

[lower50's]

Ya it's crazy how heavy diesel clutch/flywheel is, I had one for my 7,3idi had to use a dolly to move it around. Do you think your hoist will lift the motor and trans all at once to get it in the truck?

[6DoF]

so i'm able to reach the engine mounts at the 1-1/2 TON setting on the arm extension. 3000lbs working load rating should be safe enough for what is less than 1500lbs. it's a B!TCH to roll it, but does ok.

you are NOT the only one who thinks i'm nutz for even attempting to swing the whole mess from a HF crane.

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice work and yeah they are heavy. If you ever see the big torque semi ones you'll really go nuts. I don't miss putting those on without a clutch jack at all. Just watch the wheels on the HF crane. They like to break in half and cause you bad stains in your shorts when engine and trans combos are up high being positioned.

[6DoF]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Nice work and yeah they are heavy. If you ever see the big torque semi ones you'll really go nuts. I don't miss putting those on without a clutch jack at all. Just watch the wheels on the HF crane. They like to break in half and cause you bad stains in your shorts when engine and trans combos are up high being positioned.

holy crap that would suck!

i've always kept the engine as low as possible until the last moment to swing up and over the chassis. i keep threatening to get something bigger/heavier too.

on the 55 i can keep the engine nice and low, but with the trans dangle i end up jacking it way up there for this stab. it would just be so much more effort to go under with the trans with how heavy this is, and trying to get the whole chassis up high enough to roll the trans on the jack under there.

[6DoF]

finished getting the new valve cover seals and bolt o-rings installed. the blue seals i lucked into and really like for this truck!

got a generic Cummins manifold blanket to try and keep more heat out of the cab in the dog-house. did a bench test fit since the manifold is a Stainless Diesel high-flow T4 and it's really nice. it actually worked out great to just replace one at a time with the wire and the zipites held it in place. all installed and ready to make noises!

[Dieselwrencher]

That sure is a sweet manifold to cover up! I used blankets on the vette to keep heat out of the cabin and to not burn the hood. They do work. I don't blame you one bit for putting the trans on the engine now. That old KISS method comes to mind.

[joedoh]

what a great truck build! i have a rusty windshield 56 too, and just got a one owner XJ 97 (4 door auto though), the parallels are concerning haha. I figure i will just watch and take note of your pitfalls to avoid them. KIDDING. great build.

[lower50's]

Who makes the manifold blanket?

[6DoF]

Originally Posted by lower50's

Who makes the manifold blanket?

nothing special, just amazon

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[6DoF]

wow ... now i really feel bad ... i went long enough without update that i fell off page 1. i had a list of excuses, but then realized most of them were already posted here! but anyways, i'm waiting on parts for my excuses so back to the good stuff.

i'm really down to needing the interior painted before i can go any further with anything. at that point a LOT of stuff comes together (hopefully). last hurdle is getting this eyebrow replaced so here we go. also pulled the doors for access, rust repair, painting, and future alignment.

when i started cutting, i didn't expect to find the inner structure, let alone spot welded to it. slowly getting there getting all the old removed. wish me luck.

[dsraven]

Yeah, those pesky inner structures and their spot welds. Always good to look at the assembly manual before tackling any sheet metal, then you have an idea of what to expect. It shows where the spot welds are too.

[6DoF]

ok, random question ... how to remove the knob blanking plates in the dash?!? is there an easy way i'm mising?

[Jason 56]

Originally Posted by 6DoF

ok, random question ... how to remove the knob blanking plates in the dash?!? is there an easy way i'm mising?

Nice progress! Not sure if there’s an easy way to remove them. Just cut the whole dash out like I did. Plasma torch worked well

[6DoF]

Originally Posted by Jason 56

Nice progress! Not sure if there’s an easy way to remove them. Just cut the whole dash out like I did. Plasma torch worked well

ACTUALLY!! i finally did figure out the easy way!

with the gauge cluster out going in from the side vs under it was easier ... but basically a pull and twist on the back while holding the front in place since it's just a push-clip. didn't feel like anything was happening then it would just pop loose.

a little paint and they should go right back in.

[6DoF]

small update, still getting there. had to buy a finger sander and now i'm wondering how i've ever done anything without one before! for $42 on amazone, this thing is a HUGE win! stick it up in there, grind off over the spot welds, and i've been able to pop loose the filler panel without distorting the roof lip. also, under-hood light FTW.

[dsraven]

I had to look up "finger sander". its what I call a mini belt sander, lol.
yup, got one, usefull for lots of stuff. if anybody is looking be sure to buy one that is easy to find belts for. also, some have a handle that moves to different angles, which is handy.

[Dieselwrencher]

I recently separated a roof skin from a cab and it is pretty rusty under there. I was trying to come up with the best thing to put on the rust to stop it without blasting it. Do you have any stuff you apply that you like that stops that rust? I thought about ospho or something like that.

[6DoF]

so my most recent go-to has been AutoTech Rust Prep. pretty sure it's the same active chem as the rest of the paints, but just straight up by itself. leaves the rusty surfaces black and smoother. looks like you oiled it, but it's dry and hard. i believe it's converting the surface to something else.

wear gloves n eyes for this stuff

My procedure: (after some trial n error)
-clean the area with a wire brush or whatever to remove anything loose
-blow it off, then wipe it off with cleaner (i tend to brake clean )
-sprits it all wet with the RustPrep
-wet a rag with the the prep (watch drips cuz they'll etch other metal n such) and wipe/sponge the whole area good to make sure it gets in all the nooks
-give it until the edges start to dry/cure (you'll start to see white residue showing up)
-sprits and wet a rag again and re-wipe the whole thing really good for a "2nd" coat
-let FULLY dry n cure (i try n leave it over night)
-fully clean off all white residue since paint will never stick to it. (water or paint-prep solvent)
-primer / paint

for something like inside the roof skin and panels i cant' get to ... i will probably just sprits that junk in there and forget about it. better than nothing.

https://smile.amazon.com/Auto-Tech-M...ps%2C95&sr=8-3
or the gallon:
https://smile.amazon.com/Auto-Tech-M...ps%2C95&sr=8-3

[Dieselwrencher]

OK, great thank you for that. I will get some and give it a whirl.

[youngrodder]

Looking good. I used a similar product to encapsulate some trust I had on my Suburban. it worked great.

You will be soooo happy when the rust is behind you. I was.

Marc

[daddyjeep]

We call that thing a Dynafile, but I am thinking that is a brand name most likely. Kind of like how everyone calls a reciprocating saw a Sawzall. I know how much you love that. lol

[6DoF]

Originally Posted by daddyjeep

We call that thing a Dynafile, but I am thinking that is a brand name most likely. Kind of like how everyone calls a reciprocating saw a Sawzall. I know how much you love that. lol