1991 V3500 Project Heavy Hauler

[MTCK]

Yeah that's pretty normal for this time of year. I've seen -40 at Thanksgiving, but not lately. We didn't hit -30F last winter for the first time ever. Generally winters are much more mild than they used to be 20+ years ago. I was in Waterloo in October last year and it was nice and warm!

LED light bar is pretty nice. It throws a ton of light, but doesn't get it down the road as far as the old light force lights I had on my '98 Chevy. It's a cheap $90 bar, but my dad's $600 Rigid has similar characteristics.

I wrote to Vintage Air and asked about the lackluster defrost. They wrote back that the A/C should pull moisture out of the system as long as the temp switch in the heater box sees 34F. Only inside air is used, so it's not bringing any fresh air into the cab. I'm going to have to figure something out because the windows are impossible to see out of. It will only get worse when I add the wife, kid and dogs. For starters I'm going to add a cold front, put the 195 thermostat back in, and try running with the passenger vent in the foot well open. Hopefully the cold front and hotter t-stat will let the A/C run, and the vent will bring some fresh air in. That plan is out if my wife has a skirt on!

['63GENIII]

All I can say is wow Marcus! I just read the entire thread. You've got one heck of an updated truck now.

I wish I had known about this thread a few months ago. Looks like you encountered some of the same issues that I did as well. Very nice write up and your mechanical skills are on point as well.

Fun read. Hoping mine is temporarily finished up for a while though as we all know they are never fully done.

Great job!
Chris

Exhaust jail... Im still laughing!

[MTCK]

Thanks Chris! I know what you mean, the list never ends. I need to get her in a garage and finish the wiring and do a little maintenance.

[400/400]

Hopefully you can get the defrost working well. I was curious about how it would work pulling only inside air. Does the AC have a drain to outside of the truck?

[MTCK]

The A/C does have a drain outside the truck. I think the sticking point is the 34 degree temp switch that only lets the A/C cycle when warmer than that. Hopefully the cold front and hotter thermostat will let it run and it will drain without freezing.

[jdb_us1]

Took a few days to read through the entire thread, very nice work, that thing should be rock solid by the time you are all said and done. Any idea on total costs to this point?My CC build is based on the premise that I would rather spend $20k over the life of the project than to shell it out all at once on a newer truck. By the time all is said and done you are left with a reliable, good looking truck that you know the intimate workings of. Awesome job.

[MTCK]

Thanks I appreciate the compliments. Same premise here. New truck is 50k. My dad got his '13 in '15 with about 15k miles on it for 30k, which is a good deal, but I can't work on it and not exactly what I want. Oh and it gets 10-12 mpg too.

I have 15-20 in it now. 5-7 of that was rebuilding and installing the new motor. I replaced a lot of parts that I didn't necessarily "need" but wanted like new reliability. AC was a couple grand, stereo, tires, springs, all the interior work. It adds up quickly. Initial purchase of the truck was the cheapest part at $3500 and that was with a solid trans transfer case running gear and completely rust free body.

Before it is "done" I need to address the paint and suspension. Working on putting that budget together now for CFO approval. Best advise I can give is make a realistic budget and timeline, add 20% to each and plug away. Good luck with your project.

[ryanroo]

I always tell people to double the amount they plan to spend and triple the time. 20% seems so optimistic!

[MTCK]

Hahaha that's a lot safer bet! I guess it depends on the level of detail you start with. I usually try to make a parts and fluids list down to the hardware before I embankment on something major. If I was working off my favorite bar napkin, double the money would be low!

['63GENIII]

Originally Posted by ryanroo

I always tell people to double the amount they plan to spend and triple the time. 20% seems so optimistic!

Originally Posted by MTCK

Hahaha that's a lot safer bet! I guess it depends on the level of detail you start with. I usually try to make a parts and fluids list down to the hardware before I embankment on something major. If I was working off my favorite bar napkin, double the money would be low!

So true on both accounts. I do my worst planning when a bar napkin is involved.

I like the "CFO Approval". LOL, I have to cook the books once in a while and she always catches me. Mine is like the IRS!

[MTCK]

Originally Posted by '63GENIII

Mine is like the IRS!

This is never going to make it through audit! Hahahaha

[MTCK]

Grinding out the winterization install this weekend. Radiator is back for another leak repair, 195 thermostat is back in, both trickle chargers installed, circulating heater installed and all the 110v power run. Trains and oil pan heaters were installed previously and are now wired. Hope I don't trip the breaker... Oil pressure sending unit is leaking again so I need to tackle that and maybe clean up the wiring for the driving light and install my dog and backup lights. We will see how motivated I am and how much of a pass I can get.

['63GENIII]

Sounds like you're busy Marcus! Forgive my ignorance but what's a circulating heater! Is it something to do with the block heater?

I thought my "winterization" was bad... Trying to find and seal a couple of water leaks in the cab. Man, I got it easy compared.

Gotta say, your truck build is one of my favorites.

[MTCK]

Appreciate it! Yours is one of my favorites. You and Larry and Steve with your proper trucks with a pedal left of the brake...

Circulating heater is instead of a block heater. I had two different crappy Chinese block heaters puke out the side of the block this summer so I put a freeze plug in and bought this heater. Bung screws into the bottom drain on the side of the block, then the circulating heater, and it feeds into a "y" in the lower heater hose. 1500 watts vs a block heater that is normally 600-800 and the heater blows hot right when you crank it up.

I'm hoping santa brings me a remote start. If that happens buy oil futures. My Tacoma gets down to 10 mpg in the winter if I hit the button a lot. I can only imagine how bad this could get!

[MTCK]

Defrost saga update: 195 degree thermostat helps a lot. It is much more pleasant to drive at sub zero temps. I checked the compressor earlier this winter and it WAS cycling but that was when I pulled it out of the garage and everything was warm. Checked it today after I had been driving a while and it was not cycling. I'm scheduled to get my custom cold front installed next week which will bring the under hood temperatures up considerable. I'm also going to check my refrigerant pressure when it's cold to see if that could be keeping the pressure switch from letting the compressor cycle?

['63GENIII]

The cold fronts helped me a lot when Id go back to CO through WYO. Ive seen guys make em out of cardboard, plastic ect. Mine was vinyl, snaps around the outside that secured it to the outside edge of the grill and a zipper in the middle that allowed a small triangle of the grill to be exposed. It covered 75% of the grill and allowed the engine to get up to operating temps quicker and maintain them. This was on a diesel. Without it, since it had the huge radiator the truck would never warm up.

Although the temps we had were only +6 F, the cold fronts really helped during those trips. Changing to the higher t stat was a seasonal occurrence.

Im sure we will see pics of the CF. BTW, how is the circ pump working out?

[MTCK]

What you describe is exactly what I'm having made. Pretty low tech but it makes a huge difference. Pic is of the cold front I had made for my '77 daily driver. I think it was $80 about six years ago and now they are $125.

Circulating heater works great. Heater doesn't blow hot right out of the gate but it doesn't take long. 1500 watts is a lot but so is 7 or 9 gallons of coolant (I can't recall the capacity off the top of my head). Fires up like its +50 out.

If I can just get this defrost working and maybe an auto start it'll be a viable winter driver. I need it to be because it is my kid hauler on days when I'm moving the bambino around.

[MTCK]

Whoops here's the picture.

[watahyahknow]

we usually stick a piece of cartboard between the grille and radiator , youre solution looks nicer though

[deejaaa1]

your truck is looking great. your attention to detail is amazing.

[MTCK]

Appreciate it! Cold front is on. Will see how much this helps.

[MTCK]

Little perspective on where all the water off your boots goes. Down to the gap in the weather strip. Makes sense this is where the rust starts.

['63GENIII]

Originally Posted by MTCK

Little perspective on where all the water off your boots goes. Down to the gap in the weather strip. Makes sense this is where the rust starts.

Just knowing that would give me anxiety given that your truck is virtually rust free. I hate rust.

Ive been using the floor mats that have the 1/2" deep / raised channels that hold water. They grab a lot of water and mud / dirt too. I think that there is a company that makes custom ones that fit a lot of the newer suvs and trucks. They don't make one for mine but may make them for the square bodies?

[watahyahknow]

maibe make a small dent in the floor with a drain hole in the deepest part of the bottom
that should at least concentrate the moisture at one point of the floor
could allso silicone the edge of the rubber mat so the water doesnt reach the metal at all

[MTCK]

I think the drains are actually working exactly how they are supposed to... at any rate I POR15'd the crap out of the whole region and too coated it. I got the vinyl floor covering because I didn't want matts. Hopefully I'm not regretting this approach later.

In other news, TC lockup clutch is slipping under heavy load in OD and I think it is time for a transmission rebuild. Oh and I have parts to install. Can anyone name what is missing?