57 Chevy Wagon - Californa Dreamin'

[Low Elco]

Fellers, if you think this thing is cool in pictures, it's AWESOME in person. I thought it was cool when it was a beater! Truly a gorgeous piece. Thanks again for saving my skin (again).

[sduckworth13]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Fellers, if you think this thing is cool in pictures, it's AWESOME in person. I thought it was cool when it was a beater! Truly a gorgeous piece. Thanks again for saving my skin (again).

I have been lucky enough to see it in person and it really does look phenomenal. I can’t wait to see it all together.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Fellers, if you think this thing is cool in pictures, it's AWESOME in person. I thought it was cool when it was a beater! Truly a gorgeous piece. Thanks again for saving my skin (again).

Hey, Chip. Glad to be of assistance; in return you did me a solid with the coil covers so, many thanks for that!

Originally Posted by sduckworth13

I have been lucky enough to see it in person and it really does look phenomenal. I can’t wait to see it all together.

Thanks, Scott, I'm still hacking away at it.

Took a big step forward on the wiring. The Dakota Digital module is mounted with all the feed wires (except the cruise light) in place. Now I can connect the CAT5 cable to the dash and get it installed. Pretty sure when I do, I'll discover something I forgot and have to take it back out. Seems to be the way it goes.

I found out after the fact that the glove box door stop arm won't let the door close. Hits one of the Vintage Air ducts and refuses to go any further. So I took it off entirely and will do without it. No harm in doing so, just can't use the door as a shelf when it's open. We'll have the console for storage and cup holders anyway.

[Vic1947]

The right side duct coming out of the evaporator is right in the way of the glove box arm. I get within about 3/4" of the door being closed and it hits the duct. Didn't want to punch a hole in it so I figured I'd do without and just be careful. However, another forum member suggested using a cable. So I decided to go that route. I believe it will be safer with a travel limiter.

I picked up the stops at AutoZone and already had some 1/16" aircraft cable so it was just a matter of modifying the existing arm and closing up the rectangular hole in the dash. The end at the glove box door is held captive and the cable moves thru the hole very easily - not even any need for a retractor. I put a little piece of shrink tubing over the cable end next to the stop to keep any sharp edges from puncturing the plastic duct tubing. Works nice and smooth and closes correctly.

[Vic1947]

A bit more progress on the wiring front. The instrument cluster is in and the NAV/HVAC control/speaker enclosure is too. The console would be done also but for receiving incorrect cables from an eBay seller. Had to reorder, so it will be a few days before I can plug in connections for the parking brake, speakers and etc. l sure hope I didn't screw up anything. All circuits are fused but my BIL Rick says fuses are only there as a last resort to keep everything from burning to the ground ...maybe. Probably would be wise at this point to double check everything. I have a reoccurring case of CRS so perhaps even a written checklist.

[Ol Blue K20]

Very nice progress Vic. Looking good!.......

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

Very nice progress Vic. Looking good!.......

Thanks, Dale!

While waiting on some parts I figured I'd hook up the mechanical throttle body linkage. I picked up a Lokar throttle cable and pedal assembly quite awhile back and had installed the pedal before it went off to upholstery. When I got it back, I could tell the pedal didn't have enough travel due to the newly installed carpet and pad. The fix was to use some 1/2 x 5/8 x 2" aluminum blocks to space it up off the floor. Of course, this caused issues with the arm that goes thru the floor and actuates the throttle cable, so I had to machine an extension for it. I was worried that the additional arc would create too much travel but that turned out not to be the case.

In fact, after hooking it all up and adjusting till I was blue in the face, I still don't have the travel I need. With the cable adjusted to where it just returns to idle, I only have about 90% of WOT. When you read up on it, apparently that's a common problem with this setup. Typically, the advice is to make sure there's no slack in the cable, but if I over do it, the throttle blade won't return all the way to idle. There are all sorts of suggestions as you might imagine - up to and including chucking the cable and going full mechanical. Not an option for me.

Not sure if it will be an issue. I know with carbs, you prefer full open butterflies, but often a partially open secondary works nearly as well as full open. Don't know if it's a big deal with EFI. But I would feel better if the throttle blade opened completely.

[mongocanfly]

Could making your pedal extension a little longer solve the issue?....

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

Could making your pedal extension a little longer solve the issue?....

I'm sure that would help, Greg. The issue is the alignment between the cable housing and the clevis that attaches to the arm. If I make the arm longer, I'd need to increase the thickness of the blocks under the pedal to keep everything lined up. Not that I couldn't - just that it took me awhile to machine all the parts in the first place. Very specific hole sizes, spacing and metric threads to boot.

OK, I know, I know... metric stuff is probably the root cause.

[mongocanfly]

Is this the piece you made?

[mongocanfly]

I know youd have to "adj" the cable bracket to keep it inline, but I was thinking if this piece were a little longer it would increase your pedal ratio without affecting pedal travel

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

I know youd have to "adj" the cable bracket to keep it inline, but I was thinking if this piece were a little longer it would increase your pedal ratio without affecting pedal travel

I agree it would increase the travel. However, I did read a suggestion on a Corvette forum I may try first. You can disassemble the pedal and reposition the splines to change the angle of the pedal. The net result of that is the top edge of the pedal is a bit further back which increases the distance to the carpet. Right now, the carpet is the limiting factor. The built in stop isn't in play because the angle of the arm relative to the pedal isn't quite right.

I need to sit down on a milk carton and see how the pedal feels, though. Don't want to get into a situation where your right foot is at an awkward angle when driving. Will keep you posted.

[Vic1947]

Latest news...

I removed the pedal assembly and took out the two screws holding the spline'd pillow block. Rotated the splines slightly and reinserted the shaft into the block then reinstalled the screws. As you can see from the before and after photos, the angle between the arm and the pedal increased from around 88 to 97 degrees. With the pedal back in place, this tipped the upper edge back away from the carpet relative to where it sat originally. The pedal angle doesn't seem awkward when sitting in the driving position.

The end result of this geometry experiment is that I now have full throttle opening with no compromise at idle. I will say this though - the pedal action seems a bit lazy. I have to push thru more of an arc to get WOT than I expected. Time will tell if it turns out to be a drive-ability issue.

[Vic1947]

After reviewing the throttle situation, I determined a possible cause for the lazy pedal action was the hole position in the throttle arm I was using. If I moved the cable stop to the second hole, it would give me a quicker throttle as well as reducing the amount of travel needed for WOT. So I relocated the cable stop this morning to the second hole in the throttle arm and tested the throttle action. I could tell it was quicker with shorter travel as well. However, it still felt somewhat lazy. As you can see in the photos below, the Teflon lined, braided steel hose from Lokar had collapsed with only slight tension applied. It's not really meant for this purpose in the first place, so I shouldn't be surprised. As the result, the Lokar braided steel throttle cable has a new home in the trash bin.

The FITech setup came with an OEM throttle cable, but the ends were not at all what I needed. It was, however, the right length and diameter, so I set about cannibalizing the Lokar ends and transferring them to the sturdier OEM cable. It's a plastic covered, spring wound assembly with a PTFE liner meant for this application. All back together and tested, it operates smoothly and quickly. After several days of dinking around with it, I think I finally have a long term solution.

[mongocanfly]

Nice "fix"..!!!!

[Ol Blue K20]

Genious!!

[Vic1947]

Transported the inner fenderwells, coil covers and grille bar to Hot Rod Express for paint. After considerable deliberation, I decided to go ahead and paint the grille bar in the body color. The spray chrome just wasn't working for me. They offered to try to respray the chrome but I told them "once bitten, twice shy." Wish I'd known they had the ability to do spray chrome before sending the piece to the shop on the east coast. Might have turned out nicer and cost less. Looking forward to getting the parts back so I can get busy installing components like the cruise control, brake vacuum pump, m/c and brake booster, etc. Right now, I'm having to switch among things to do because of a lack of planning.

I machined a billet mount for the fuel regulator, only to find I didn't have the AN fittings I needed to complete the fuel line plumbing. Same for the power steering. I called Roadster Shop to find out what pump pressure would be suitable for the rack and pinion they install on their chassis. They said they go by flow rate and not pressure and sent me a list of parts they recommend for their setup. So the Borgeson pressure kit I purchased was set aside to be replaced by a fitting with a specific orifice size - that I had to order, of course.

I did get the console finalized after getting the RCA cables I needed. It meets my need for an installation that doesn't look entirely homemade like some of my past efforts.

[Ol Blue K20]

Coming together nicely. Sucks about the grill bar, but should be nice painted body color.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

Coming together nicely. Sucks about the grill bar, but should be nice painted body color.

That's what I'm hoping too, Dale. I've done this long enough to know I have a hard time looking the other way and saying, "Well, I'm not really happy with that, but it will be okay, I guess."

Been working on odds and ends. Built a small enclosure to house the fan relays and the transformer that drives the CCFL rings for my parking lights. Hides a bit of the ugly. Will probably mount it down under the fans somewhere you won't see it anyway, but it was a fun thing to do. Also machined a mount for the oil catch can. I had one on a previous LS3 build and the shop that built my current engine recommends running one. But like everything I touch these days, I'm short some fittings so I'll have to turn my attention to other stuff while I wait on USPS. I have the weatherstrip on the driver door. Wasn't real happy with the technique I used although it turned out pretty decent. Now trying the method Danchuk recommends for their seals on the passenger side.

[mongocanfly]

All looks good Vic...what'd you make the relay cover out of?...

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

All looks good Vic...what'd you make the relay cover out of?...

X2, it looks good!

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

All looks good Vic...what'd you make the relay cover out of?...

Thanks, Greg, but I can't take credit for the enclosure. Found it on eBay and stuffed it with my components. The body and lid are made from extruded aluminum and appear to be powder coated. For the princely sum of $10.50 there's no way to justify making one.

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

X2, it looks good!

Thanks, Dale.

[Vic1947]

The parts I took to Hot Rod Express for paint are nearly done. Some touch up and buffing are all that's left to do. Hope to pick them up this week. The oil catch can is plumbed, the power steering hoses are in and tested and the fuel lines are complete as well.

Figured now was as good a time as any to mock up the remaining brake lines. So I hung the vacuum booster, master cylinder and proportioning valve then bent the lines to fit. The Wilwood proportioning valve has separate ports for the front brakes, so I had to revise my layout slightly. Could have plugged the extra port and run a single line to the tee I had in there, but what the heck, I had the time and the fittings so I made the change.

As you can see from the photo, I installed a CPP relocation bracket that moves the vacuum booster forward, up and outboard a couple of inches. Results in more clearance for the coil covers. Per the law of unintended consequences, I'll be surprised if something doesn't interfere somewhere.

[Low Elco]

Lookin' like good progress!

[Ol Blue K20]

Looks nice!