** YOUNG FRANKENSTEIN ** The truck Chevrolet should have built.

[Mr Chevy]

Hey Drew I just looked at your build thread for the first time today. Awesome work. I cant wait to see your truck finished.
Your work has inspired my son and I to get back out in the garage and finish up his 1970 C-10
Thanks

[drewskiren]

Originally Posted by Mr Chevy

Hey Drew I just looked at your build thread for the first time today. Awesome work. I cant wait to see your truck finished.
Your work has inspired my son and I to get back out in the garage and finish up his 1970 C-10
Thanks

I'm glad to be an inspiration, I read your thread and it ends rather abruptly?

[Mr Chevy]

Originally Posted by drewskiren

I'm glad to be an inspiration, I read your thread and it ends rather abruptly?

Yup it sure did. We stopped work on it and used it as it was for that summer. Then it just sat and collectected dust. But we are about to start working on it again sometime in the next few weeks and we will start a new build thread and update it every few days with pics.

[drewskiren]

It's a little chilly tonight after church to work on our patient, But I did manage to wire wheel and prime the underside of the sweet high hump and mark out where to cut tomorrow.

On another note, I have found tiny rust spots in a few places I had worked and shot a quick primer on. Get this, it has been in the shop the whole time. How can rust start on primed metal in a dry shop???? I've always heard rust never sleeps, now I believe it.

Frame looks lonely, I think it needs a heart installed.

[Dieselwrencher]

Man that stinks about the rust. You might want to sand blast that rust and acid wash it so you can try to stop it dead in its' tracks. Then use a wash primer and then sealer.

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by drewskiren

On another note, I have found tiny rust spots in a few places I had worked and shot a quick primer on. Get this, it has been in the shop the whole time. How can rust start on primed metal in a dry shop???? I've always heard rust never sleeps, now I believe it.

.

I had the same thing happen to me on my cab. My shop is dry but not climate controlled. I wonder if the humidity in the summer? Btw, you really must be on a deadline....too fast!

[swamp rat]

All it takes is there to be a couple little pin prick holes with a spot of rust and it will spread, maybe time for a little rust treatment, not sure what would be best, maybe Phospheric acid?

[drewskiren]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

All it takes is there to be a couple little pin prick holes with a spot of rust and it will spread, maybe time for a little rust treatment, not sure what would be best, maybe Phospheric acid?

Originally Posted by mcbassin

I had the same thing happen to me on my cab. My shop is dry but not climate controlled. I wonder if the humidity in the summer? Btw, you really must be on a deadline....too fast!

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Man that stinks about the rust. You might want to sand blast that rust and acid wash it so you can try to stop it dead in its' tracks. Then use a wash primer and then sealer.

I had been using Eastwood's rust converter, using a squirt bottle to slather it everywhere. But my paint gun wouldn't fit and I can't paint in all those same places. Maybe the rust converter has to be top coated fully? How would you coat the inside of double walled stuff with paint? I have seen wands and tubes for undercoating hard to reach areas, but I don't really want undercoating inside my cab, kinda smelly when it warms up.

[silverboy02]

The way I am doing my restorations is having them acid dipped and then dipped in e-coating, that way they are clean of all rust and have primer inside and out in all the nooks and crannies. It's expensive but well worth it to eliminate all of the rust.

[silverboy02]

When I had my 67 camaro body done(just passenger compartment no doors or anything) it was $900 to strip and 1,000 to e-coat. That was several years ago. I just had a customers 71 Challenger done complete car doors fenders everything and it was just shy of $4,000. The company is ready strip in jackson, ms. They are just down the street from Keystone Automotive.

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by drewskiren

I had been using Eastwood's rust converter, using a squirt bottle to slather it everywhere. But my paint gun wouldn't fit and I can't paint in all those same places. Maybe the rust converter has to be top coated fully? How would you coat the inside of double walled stuff with paint? I have seen wands and tubes for undercoating hard to reach areas, but I don't really want undercoating inside my cab, kinda smelly when it warms up.

Honestly, I don't trust those rust converters very much. I've seen then fail too many times. The only sure fire way is to spread the metal apart and get the rust out. The acid works about the best I think in those areas you can't get to or don't want to cut open.

[jgh64pkup]

Great build subscribed
Posted via Mobile Device

[drewskiren]

is what this build is like for me!

[ERASER5]

What? Another Micky Mouse job?

NOT!

[MARKDTN]

I am just finding this. This is amazing! I have been considering this on a regular cab myself. I will continue to follow this with interest. I had a whole post written, but you have already answered several of my questions:
*******************
Ever since High School in the mid ‘80s I have wanted a ’69-70 truck. I had several friends that had them and I always thought they were neat. After high school I went to college and then got married. I bought an ’83 K20 from my uncle that he bought new. Still have it in basically stock form except it has a Tuned Port engine from a ’90 Corvette now. Anyway, I have always done side jobs mechanicing and rebuilding and have built some vehicles for various people. I put a TPI into a ‘72 stepside for a guy about 5 years ago and the bug for one of these trucks has been biting me since. I am capable of some pretty heavy fabrication and electrical, but body work is not my thing.
I have an ’01 Tahoe DD and I just love it. The ride is great, the power is great, quiet inside, good fuel economy- probably the best all around truck I have ever had. Still tight after 215k+ miles. This got me to thinking, what if instead of swapping an LS engine and transmission into an old truck, I swapped the old truck onto the new frame. Keep the ABS brakes, power locks, newer a/c with auto climate control, auto headlights, newer hydro-formed frame and newer suspension, etc. I would lose the air bags. No worries about the fuel tank, exhaust, engine brackets, or engine/trans mounts. I have been thinking a long time about this and have a lot of thoughts, I have searched for info on this with no success, but if it has been done before I would love to see one. 67-72 long wheelbase truck is 127”, a 2000 up is 133”. Assuming the same front axle to back of cab dimension (I can’t find this published anywhere) this leaves a 6” larger than normal gap between cab and bed, but possibly some of this could be fudged back somehow (or go wild and build an extended cab, but that is outside my abilities). From nose to tail here is what I am thinking the issues are:
1-front bumper brackets- I think these could be made.
2-core support-It would be nice to keep the new support, but may be forced to use the old. Either way, there will have to be modifications to it. The hood latch for 67-72 is pretty simple, maybe could trim the late support? If the early nose is shorter, may have to go with old support moved back and use electric fans. This is the area that concerns me most about doing this. I don’t have any dimensional data on: front axle to firewall, front bumper to front axle, top of frame to top of fender, or front axle to core support for an early truck. The engine compartment is pretty big on a ’67-72 with available small blocks, big blocks, inline 6, and the GMC V6 so I think there is room to play with. The height is another concern, but I think there is room there too. The cab could be raised a little if necessary to clear everything. I know that an LS will fit in a ‘67-72, but I am mostly concerned with the placement vs: the late frame.
3-Inner fenders-I think the old will clear everything. Since they attach to the fenders, I think this is the way to go.
4-A/C box. This is an area that is lacking on the old trucks. I am thinking of using the new a/c box inside and out and modifying the firewall to take it. I think it will work outside just fine. Inside is another matter. The dash is so shallow in a 67-72. I guess you still have to use the flexible duct lines to the vents, but maybe hard ducts could be made. Some adapters coming out of the late inside box will be necessary. I would modify the dash to use the late controller. The size appears to be similar. This way I can keep the new automatic climate control. Some work on max-air ducts and piping will be required.
5-Cab mounts-will have to be fabricated as a combination of old and new.
6-steering column-I don’t want the new column, that’s for sure. I think I would use an early column and get a linkage to the rack made. Then I would have to deal with shifter linkage, but maybe I could still keep the late cable shift. If not, the ’96 Caprice for instance, has a column shift with round column and 4L60E and so I could get the arm off that transmission for use with a column linkage shift. I also have a tilt column out of an ‘83 van. I know the early van columns swap in, but I don’t know about the later ones. This would allow cruise control and delay wipers on the column. Also this would allow a neutral safety/park switch that the computer will want a signal for. I would keep the key in the dash and just mod the column to remove the ignition switch. Some mods are probably required to use the new brake booster on an old pedal.
7-dash-I would use the early gauge dash. Convert the speedo to electronic, convert the ammeter to a voltmeter, use the new headlight switch and maintain the automatic headlights. Could have a tach if I wanted it, but I don’t care. It would have to be converted to a “4-cyl” signal with an LS if I did. Maybe I could put the info center from the new dash in the center? Use the oil light for Service Engine (that is what I did on the ’72 put TPI in) or check gauges. That leaves me short at least an ABS light, belts, cruise, tow/haul-and either SES or check gauges. I want a basically stock look, I will have to find a place for some indicator lights. Could probably use the 4th gauge position that is unused.
8-Wiring. I would use the complete wiring from the new truck, modifying ends as necessary to fit old components. Most of this will be the front lighting, the ignition switch, and wipers. There are several modules to be located, hopefully I would not lose all my glove box.
9-Misc-I am sure I have oversimplified or left something out.
Anybody done this before or looked into it?
***************************
1-front bumper brackets- looks like they can be fabbed
2-core support-Mod the frame and use old
3-Inner fenders-use old
4-A/C box.-waiting to see
5-Cab mounts-fabricated as a combination of old and new.
6-steering column-waiting to see
7-dash-waiting to see
8-Wiring-waiting to see

[drewskiren]

Mark,

You are all over it!

I'll get to the rest of all your questions in due time, come along for the ride.

[MARKDTN]

Originally Posted by drewskiren

Mark,

You are all over it!
I'll get to the rest of all your questions in due time, come along for the ride.

I am interested to see how you handle the HVAC, Which column you use, and the instrument cluster. I will keep an eye on this. Great work!

[LEEVON]

:pve it, and have always had a soft spot for that Fesler-built crew...

[drewskiren]

Measured and marked the high hump, cut it out with the thin cut off wheel on the grinder, and drilled the bolt holes. The fit was fair, not really wanting to seat down perfectly everywhere, but I suspect this to be typical GM stuff. Covered the mounting lip with seam sealer and let it ooze out. Wiped up the excess and we are done...

[VA72C10]

Looks good from here

[drewskiren]

Getting the bed ready for tomorrows sandblasting. I have about 20 extra holes that previous owners were so kind to drill for me in the bottom of the bed. I'm using a trick I saw here on the board, electrical knock-outs to weld to, to fill the holes. Remember I plan on USING this truck, so I will be Rhino-Lining the bed and have a rubber mat over that. Not really sure now why I am bothering to weld up the holes???

[Dieselwrencher]

Cool trick! Thanks for sharing that with us!

[silverboy02]

A copper block backing plate works really well to weld up holes too. I bought one that has a handle on it and use it all of the time.

[drewskiren]

Originally Posted by silverboy02

A copper block backing plate works really well to weld up holes too. I bought one that has a handle on it and use it all of the time.

I wish I had one of those tonight.

[VA72C10]

Originally Posted by drewskiren

I wish I had one of those tonight.

you can also use a scrap piece of copper pipe with one end flattened in a pinch...