Dutch '59 Fleetside Longbed

[oldman3]

Kees, Engine looks great...Jim

[Nut Case]

Kees Strong work, keep on keeping on. NC

[Kim57]

Engine looks real nice.
Kim

[Advanced Design]

Nice, always a fan of Chevy orange!

[58-GMC]

Your engine came out great - keep it up!

[Rude Dude]

I shorten a tilt van column go to my build post#81

[lower50's]

WOW great job. Your level of ingenuity weather its need or want is inspiring.

[YahamaR1]

Looks good with all the new paint...

[RockinKees]

Thanks a lot guys!!!

Rude Dude, I saw your post (ofcourse!!) I think I'm going to tackle that problem.
Looks more of a problem then it really is.....I hope

[RockinKees]

Busy day today
Got the front brake lines installed and cleaned the frame a bit



Then I hanged the engine in the crane for the last time (I hope...)



Asked my buddy Niels to come over and help install the engine.
I was a bit surprised that he finally came over with his beautiful '66 VW Type 3



So said and done, engine is in his natural habitat





But, Houston, we've got a problem...
The clearing of the headers isn't what I expected.
the "downpipes" are way close to the rack and pinion and the starter:

Left side







Right side:





Now I have to think about a sollution to make this work.
My first thought was to sell these and get a pair of half long headers, but that doesn't clear the column. That's a bigger problem.
After a second look I might get away with some tricky welding...

Stay tuned....

[Katrina/10]

I had the same problem with the right side, it looks like you used the same starter and headers I did. Initially, I ground the header collector flange until it cleared the starter, which worked fine. I later put a starter from a 95 Chevrolet truck on it, which is very small. You could do either one. But, for the other side, I can't really see well enough to tell what is in the way. Eventually, I put a set of factory Corvette C4 manifolds on it, which are tubular and very much like the block hugger headers. The collectors on these are very similar to yours, but much further away from the engine block. Would that help?

[RockinKees]

Thanks Gary.

The collectors clears both side well enough, but when I want to bolt the exhaust pipes onto the collectors, then the clearing issues begin.
But with a bit of creative welding, that problem should be solved too.
Just a lot of extra work.

[Katrina/10]

As you say, tricky welding! I think Chev 305 truck manifolds with the outlet in the rear would work for this situation. But, they aren't as cool as headers. Maybe some guys who have done this Jag suspension may know what works. Good luck!

[Baddflash]

Excellent work Kees, I really like the build and am impressed with the quality of work you're achieving with "minimal tools" true hot rodding. Keep up the good work, hope you have more good days than bad. I'm in that boat myself and it's not fun, though I think it forces you to come up with easier better ways to do things. Work the mind not our battered bodies.

Cheers,
Cory

[Kim57]

Looking good.
Hope you get the header problem worked out.
These guys have some that may work.
http://www.sandersonheaders.com/Chev...eaders/?page=2
Kim

[Nut Case]

Kees, this is an unfiltered thought. Which means I'm not responsible. Remove the header and at the top of the header flange, "pie" about 3/4" cut each tube leaving about a 1/4" of the tube at the bottom of the header flange uncut, re-weld the closed tube back to the flange. This should move the collector out away from the block. This might give you some relief. No ruffled feathers if you don't use this idea. Good luck NC

[RockinKees]

Excellent work Kees, I really like the build and am impressed with the quality of work you're achieving with "minimal tools" true hot rodding. Keep up the good work, hope you have more good days than bad. I'm in that boat myself and it's not fun, though I think it forces you to come up with easier better ways to do things. Work the mind not our battered bodies.

Cheers,
Cory

Thanks Cory!
Appreciate your words a lot!

Looking good.
Hope you get the header problem worked out.
These guys have some that may work.
http://www.sandersonheaders.com/Chev...eaders/?page=2
Kim

Thank you Kim, I will look at their headers.
I think I've find a way to make mine work...just old skool welding required
If that doesn't work out, Sanderson must have the right ones!

Kees, this is an unfiltered thought. Which means I'm not responsible. Remove the header and at the top of the header flange, "pie" about 3/4" cut each tube leaving about a 1/4" of the tube at the bottom of the header flange uncut, re-weld the closed tube back to the flange. This should move the collector out away from the block. This might give you some relief. No ruffled feathers if you don't use this idea. Good luck NC

Tips are always welcome!!
But the problem is not that the headers are too close to the block, my steering rack is too close to the header flange.
It's difficult to see at the pics, sorry.
I have to make a "special" pipe from the flange down.

[lower50's]

Originally Posted by RockinKees

But the problem is not that the headers are too close to the block, my steering rack is too close to the header flange.
It's difficult to see at the pics, sorry.
I have to make a "special" pipe from the flange down.

You could cut the straight pipe off the flange and weld an angle on to the flange, similar to what I did from my turbo. Sorry don't have a close up.

[RockinKees]

Thanks Lower50's, that was my first plan.
I think I have to notch the rack and pinion pipe too, to clear the rack.

Some creative welding requiered

No problem
We'll see in the near future....

[RockinKees]

Was a bit busy with the headers today.
I think it's going to work like I thought.

Rightside clears the starter good:



I shortened the pipe a bit and put it on at a slight angle.
Easy

But then the leftside...
Rack and pinion is in the way...
I shortened both the collecterpipe and the downpipe, both ground in an angle.
Then I notched the downpipe as it fits around the rack.
I think its going to work this way









Yes, it's tight!
But, when finished, it should have half an inch clear of the rack, everywhere.
It's 2,5 inch pipe, I could have made the first few feet in 2 or 2,25 inch.
Didn't thought of that....Maybe that was easier...

Yesterday, I primered the inside cab floor, and put on the first layer of black paint today

Progress is being made here

[ptc]

Kees, sorry I didnt see this post earlier.... maybe could have saved you something.

The problem with making that "work" in that area is the heat that is going to come off that header is going to burn or destroy every part in there. Its going to melt the rack rubber cover, melt your power steering hoses, cook the oil in that steering gear box, not to mention the xtra heat on that oil pan. You really need to get the header collector out of that area.

Get a header with a rearward facing collector like a camaro or chevelle application, a shorty style with a rear dump. and go down the firewall with it. It will save you alot of grief. Or just cut yours up and make your own - you can do it man!

[RockinKees]

PTC, you are absolutly right about the heat.

It has slipped my mind, but never did anything with that thought

But now you woke me up....
Have to consider new headers or make 'm myself....
More work on the go

Thanks for waking me up PTC!!

[RockinKees]

I found some headers on the Dutch "CL"...
Maybe one of you can tell me if these gonna work better on my setup?
They're Hedman Headers #68600, for Camaro, Monte Carlo...

If someone uses them, can you tell me if they clear the intermediate shaft?
Or do I have to modify the intermediate shaft to bolt these on?
Picture of these mounted is very, very welcome!

Thanks!

[BC Toy chest]

Kees I realize you are not trying to build a gasser but have you considered possibly using fender-well headers where it would go completely above the steering shaft? Unlike the second photo you could route the collector and exhaust pipes between the frame instead of on the outside of the frame.

[RockinKees]

BC, I've not considered them.
And I'm not gonna use these

If something is ugly, then it's these headers on a not-gasser...

But thanks for thinking with me!!